View Poll Results: What is the best intake for 6th Gen?
AEM
6
5.45%
Stillen
13
11.82%
Injen
33
30.00%
Fujita
40
36.36%
K&N
7
6.36%
Perrin
0
0%
Other (Post in thread)
11
10.00%
Voters: 110. You may not vote on this poll
Best Intake for 6th Gen?
08-25-2006, 09:17 AM
#1
Best Intake for 6th Gen?
Hey everyone..
Wanted some opinions on what you think the best intake is for the 6th gen. I'm looking to put one in shortly. I appreciate all opinions thanks. Put up a Poll to go along as well.
Wanted some opinions on what you think the best intake is for the 6th gen. I'm looking to put one in shortly. I appreciate all opinions thanks. Put up a Poll to go along as well.
08-25-2006, 02:17 PM
#10
Originally Posted by puroputo
When you guys say Panel Filter....is that saying a K&N Filter that goes in the stock intake box?? Or just a normal, standard paper filter???
And yes, just the K&N filter in the stock air box.
08-25-2006, 03:10 PM
#12
Originally Posted by Nietzsche
I looked for weeks before getting mine and ended on the Fujita. Don't think I was wrong after I put it in. I know people with the Nismo and Injen RD and much prefer the results with the Fujita.
But as always, just my opinion
08-25-2006, 03:35 PM
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Bartlett, IL
Posts: 3,595
Originally Posted by puroputo
When you guys say Panel Filter....is that saying a K&N Filter that goes in the stock intake box?? Or just a normal, standard paper filter???
08-25-2006, 04:40 PM
#15
Aem
Originally Posted by !PrjctMax!
It's all jsut sound after a week or so though. Unless you get your ecu done by Technosquare, or disconnect the negative from the battery like every week or 2. So $250 I will put towards handling. But as always, just my opinion
But as always, just my opinionFirst the AEM CAI that goes all the way down in front of the car gives the most mid range hp and torque (which turns the Max in to a Cruise Missile). Sounds pretty good too! In terms of gain I would say AEM is 1, InJen is 2 tied with Fujita but that is just through personal observation from forum feed back.
Second: You do not have to disconnect the battery to reflash the ECU. It takes about one minute and is totally safe. You can do it as many times as you want: Follow these instructions to flash the ECU: Leave your seat belt un-buckled. Put the KEY in to the ingnition and turn the key all the way to the right as if you were turning on the car but do not turn start the engine: All the lights are on the dash. Count to 3 seconds....one one thousand, two one thousand three one thousand...you will finish the count to three just before the third beep (There are four beeps all together). At the end of the third count or just after the third beep press down on the gas pedal all the way to the end 5 times. Make sure you floor it all the way. Count to five as you're doing this...the cadence should be: one thousand, two thousand, three thousand, four thousand, five thousand. Then count to seven seconds with your foot OFF the gas pedal and then floor the pedal for about 30 seconds until you will see the yellow "Service Engine Soon" light start to blink (slow blink)....release the pedal and then floor the gas pedal for about 10 seconds...the light will start to blink faster then release again. At this point turn off the ignition, wait three seconds and then turn the engine on...Voila, poof, your ECU is flashed. My experience is that it stays flashed for a couple of hundred KM's or about 100 miles. Usually if you try to reflash it, it will not blink or it may blink but not fast: This means that it is still flashed. There you have it. In under two minutes you have MAXimum power!
Now go and get 94 octane and then be carefull when getting on the highway! LOL! If you have a UR UDP and have a Greddy cat back or like me, removed the stock resonator and put on a custom stainless pipe before the mufflers....hehehe...enjoy the sound and the scenerey...just please be careful and please do not street race! Take it to the track or your favorite abandoned air strip etc.
I have just upgraded by brakes: Brembo cross-drilled and venilated over size rotors with Hawk HPS pads. This is cause the Max has to be tamed....it takes about 10 meters or 30 feet longer for the stock Max to stop from 60 - 0 than most other cars in it's class: V6 Accords, Camrys, Mazdaspeed 6's etc.
My next four projects are: Eibach lowering springs, Custom Designed Y-pipe, custom rear y-pipe going to two performance mufflers (I have not made up my mind yet although Greddy and Remus are on this list) and then:
the APEXi NEO. I will need this as the car will be running lean after the y-pipe. I am against installing a HI-FLO Cat as you do need a bit of back-pressure otherwise....
My last mod will be a custom designed ground effects kit similar to one available on the new Lexus IS 350. And maybe the new 07 Max spoiler....I am curious how many here like it better than the 04-05-06 spoiler.
Later if you want you can install a computer: APEXi NEO or similar or reprogram the ECU with TS.
Most importantly: Have fun with your car and don't let it run your life!
08-25-2006, 06:21 PM
#16
Originally Posted by xorbitman
First the AEM CAI that goes all the way down in front of the car gives the most mid range hp and torque (which turns the Max in to a Cruise Missile). Sounds pretty good too! In terms of gain I would say AEM is 1, InJen is 2 tied with Fujita but that is just through personal observation from forum feed back.
Second: You do not have to disconnect the battery to reflash the ECU. It takes about one minute and is totally safe. You can do it as many times as you want: Follow these instructions to flash the ECU: Leave your seat belt un-buckled. Put the KEY in to the ingnition and turn the key all the way to the right as if you were turning on the car but do not turn start the engine: All the lights are on the dash. Count to 3 seconds....one one thousand, two one thousand three one thousand...you will finish the count to three just before the third beep (There are four beeps all together). At the end of the third count or just after the third beep press down on the gas pedal all the way to the end 5 times. Make sure you floor it all the way. Count to five as you're doing this...the cadence should be: one thousand, two thousand, three thousand, four thousand, five thousand. Then count to seven seconds with your foot OFF the gas pedal and then floor the pedal for about 30 seconds until you will see the yellow "Service Engine Soon" light start to blink (slow blink)....release the pedal and then floor the gas pedal for about 10 seconds...the light will start to blink faster then release again. At this point turn off the ignition, wait three seconds and then turn the engine on...Voila, poof, your ECU is flashed. My experience is that it stays flashed for a couple of hundred KM's or about 100 miles. Usually if you try to reflash it, it will not blink or it may blink but not fast: This means that it is still flashed. There you have it. In under two minutes you have MAXimum power!
Now go and get 94 octane and then be carefull when getting on the highway! LOL! If you have a UR UDP and have a Greddy cat back or like me, removed the stock resonator and put on a custom stainless pipe before the mufflers....hehehe...enjoy the sound and the scenerey...just please be careful and please do not street race! Take it to the track or your favorite abandoned air strip etc.
I have just upgraded by brakes: Brembo cross-drilled and venilated over size rotors with Hawk HPS pads. This is cause the Max has to be tamed....it takes about 10 meters or 30 feet longer for the stock Max to stop from 60 - 0 than most other cars in it's class: V6 Accords, Camrys, Mazdaspeed 6's etc.
My next four projects are: Eibach lowering springs, Custom Designed Y-pipe, custom rear y-pipe going to two performance mufflers (I have not made up my mind yet although Greddy and Remus are on this list) and then:
the APEXi NEO. I will need this as the car will be running lean after the y-pipe. I am against installing a HI-FLO Cat as you do need a bit of back-pressure otherwise....
My last mod will be a custom designed ground effects kit similar to one available on the new Lexus IS 350. And maybe the new 07 Max spoiler....I am curious how many here like it better than the 04-05-06 spoiler.
Later if you want you can install a computer: APEXi NEO or similar or reprogram the ECU with TS.
Most importantly: Have fun with your car and don't let it run your life!
Second: You do not have to disconnect the battery to reflash the ECU. It takes about one minute and is totally safe. You can do it as many times as you want: Follow these instructions to flash the ECU: Leave your seat belt un-buckled. Put the KEY in to the ingnition and turn the key all the way to the right as if you were turning on the car but do not turn start the engine: All the lights are on the dash. Count to 3 seconds....one one thousand, two one thousand three one thousand...you will finish the count to three just before the third beep (There are four beeps all together). At the end of the third count or just after the third beep press down on the gas pedal all the way to the end 5 times. Make sure you floor it all the way. Count to five as you're doing this...the cadence should be: one thousand, two thousand, three thousand, four thousand, five thousand. Then count to seven seconds with your foot OFF the gas pedal and then floor the pedal for about 30 seconds until you will see the yellow "Service Engine Soon" light start to blink (slow blink)....release the pedal and then floor the gas pedal for about 10 seconds...the light will start to blink faster then release again. At this point turn off the ignition, wait three seconds and then turn the engine on...Voila, poof, your ECU is flashed. My experience is that it stays flashed for a couple of hundred KM's or about 100 miles. Usually if you try to reflash it, it will not blink or it may blink but not fast: This means that it is still flashed. There you have it. In under two minutes you have MAXimum power!
Now go and get 94 octane and then be carefull when getting on the highway! LOL! If you have a UR UDP and have a Greddy cat back or like me, removed the stock resonator and put on a custom stainless pipe before the mufflers....hehehe...enjoy the sound and the scenerey...just please be careful and please do not street race! Take it to the track or your favorite abandoned air strip etc.
I have just upgraded by brakes: Brembo cross-drilled and venilated over size rotors with Hawk HPS pads. This is cause the Max has to be tamed....it takes about 10 meters or 30 feet longer for the stock Max to stop from 60 - 0 than most other cars in it's class: V6 Accords, Camrys, Mazdaspeed 6's etc.
My next four projects are: Eibach lowering springs, Custom Designed Y-pipe, custom rear y-pipe going to two performance mufflers (I have not made up my mind yet although Greddy and Remus are on this list) and then:
the APEXi NEO. I will need this as the car will be running lean after the y-pipe. I am against installing a HI-FLO Cat as you do need a bit of back-pressure otherwise....
My last mod will be a custom designed ground effects kit similar to one available on the new Lexus IS 350. And maybe the new 07 Max spoiler....I am curious how many here like it better than the 04-05-06 spoiler.
Later if you want you can install a computer: APEXi NEO or similar or reprogram the ECU with TS.
Most importantly: Have fun with your car and don't let it run your life!
08-25-2006, 08:08 PM
#21
Newbie just Registered
Join Date: May 2005
Location: LA/OC, CA
Posts: 2,795
Originally Posted by MisterSparkle
ooo only for a 100 miles? damn i was really looking for a permenant flash that didn't require me to ship my ECU away...does anybody kno if i can just buy another ecu and then reflash that one and put it in my car? i mean another 6th gen ECU...??
That was great info though!
08-26-2006, 05:27 AM
#23
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (16)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Denver, Colorado
Posts: 2,761
Originally Posted by xorbitman
First the AEM CAI that goes all the way down in front of the car gives the most mid range hp and torque (which turns the Max in to a Cruise Missile). Sounds pretty good too! In terms of gain I would say AEM is 1, InJen is 2 tied with Fujita but that is just through personal observation from forum feed back.....
My experience with the Nismo CAI is this:
1. My take off is not what it used to be with the K&N panel filter/stock setup.
2. My upper midrange 4k rpm+ and top end pull definitely seems stronger. ( 70mph ----->) Great for highway driving.
3. Gas mileage is a better by about 1mpg
4. The Nismo, and probably most intakes are going to sound much better than stock. Maybe some have had a chance to hear some of them side by side in the 6th gen.
My recommendation: Enjoy the sound of your CAI but don't be fooled about real performance gains without the TS ECU flash.
08-27-2006, 05:45 PM
#24
Originally Posted by Apollos2
My experience with the Nismo CAI is this:
1. My take off is not what it used to be with the K&N panel filter/stock setup.
2. My upper midrange 4k rpm+ and top end pull definitely seems stronger. ( 70mph ----->) Great for highway driving.
3. Gas mileage is a better by about 1mpg
4. The Nismo, and probably most intakes are going to sound much better than stock. Maybe some have had a chance to hear some of them side by side in the 6th gen.
1. My take off is not what it used to be with the K&N panel filter/stock setup.
2. My upper midrange 4k rpm+ and top end pull definitely seems stronger. ( 70mph ----->) Great for highway driving.
3. Gas mileage is a better by about 1mpg
4. The Nismo, and probably most intakes are going to sound much better than stock. Maybe some have had a chance to hear some of them side by side in the 6th gen.
08-28-2006, 12:19 PM
#26
Originally Posted by chernmax
I like the Injen, however if I ever went for a swap, it would be a toss up between NISMO or Fujita ...
08-30-2006, 10:06 PM
#27
here's a vid i did of before and after installing my berk.
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v4...ent=Before.flv
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v4...rent=After.flv
feels like it pulls harder up top, but then again it could be a mental thing.
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v4...ent=Before.flv
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v4...rent=After.flv
feels like it pulls harder up top, but then again it could be a mental thing.
08-31-2006, 09:50 AM
#28
Nations 1st 6th Gen Turbo
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Displaced New Yorker in Southern, MD
Posts: 10,202
Originally Posted by Glude
They are basically the same thing so just save your money. This thread is kinda dumb because intakes dont really do much at all. Why start a thread about something thats been beaten to death a million times? Its all subjective to color, sound, and if you want a cold air or warm air intake.
And I wasn't stating I was going to buy another CAI, I just meant if I had a choice, I may have gone with another brand however when I got my CAI, Injen was the only true CAI available...
09-10-2006, 04:37 PM
#35
I really can't decide which one to get. I found the Fujita on eBay (link is right here) and I just can't make up my mind..Fujita/Injen/Nismo/Stillen/AEM?? I was going towards Fujita because if you click there's two vids of the Fujita on 04 Max SE, one on Dyno and one inside the car while driving w/intake.
Any ideas? Would any of you take the Fujita? Where do they sell Nismo intakes..haven't seen one on eBay for 04-06 yet. Thanks. Real hard choice though to decide which intake. Do you think Cold Air Intake is the best intake for the Max?
Any ideas? Would any of you take the Fujita? Where do they sell Nismo intakes..haven't seen one on eBay for 04-06 yet. Thanks. Real hard choice though to decide which intake. Do you think Cold Air Intake is the best intake for the Max?
09-10-2006, 04:45 PM
#36
^^^ This has been disputed many times, but I think that most would say that the Fujita is the "best" intake. Fujita was founded by someone that left Injen. Nismo you can pretty much get at any stealership or browsing online.
As for power.........you will loose a little low end but gain more at 4000 and up, but after a few days or so the ECU will re-adapt itself to "stock" settings, this is why you should also get the Techno-Square ecu for optimal performance! http://www.technosquareinc.com/index.html
Good Luck
Dan
As for power.........you will loose a little low end but gain more at 4000 and up, but after a few days or so the ECU will re-adapt itself to "stock" settings, this is why you should also get the Techno-Square ecu for optimal performance! http://www.technosquareinc.com/index.html
Good Luck
Dan
09-10-2006, 04:57 PM
#37
Thank you for helping me out Dan. Maybe I should get my car serviced at Nissan before I do any of these and void the warranty..lol..that would be smart. Unfortunately, need new spark plug, need 12V fixed, and TRANNY IS STARTING TO SLIP..i have NO idea why. Like, I'll put it into drive, press gas slowly, it rolls, then theres a huge jerk, then it goes.
09-10-2006, 05:06 PM
#38
Originally Posted by Defiant_Max04
Thank you for helping me out Dan. Maybe I should get my car serviced at Nissan before I do any of these and void the warranty..lol..that would be smart. Unfortunately, need new spark plug, need 12V fixed, and TRANNY IS STARTING TO SLIP..i have NO idea why. Like, I'll put it into drive, press gas slowly, it rolls, then theres a huge jerk, then it goes.
and how many miles do you have on the car, and is it auto? thats quite strange if you ask me, but judging from your Shift_Leadfoot..................i wouldnt be surprised! lol
There's still something very wrong with that
09-10-2006, 05:10 PM
#40
Originally Posted by AllBlackMax
I would go with AEM.
1. One piece design
2. My dyno numbers suggest that I'm producing slightly more torque than others, 256.3 at the wheels.
1. One piece design
2. My dyno numbers suggest that I'm producing slightly more torque than others, 256.3 at the wheels.
And the newer version of the Fujita is one piece as well http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=476150