Im going to be changing my front brake pads soon, I bought a 3" C-clamp to push the piston back in, is this big enough before I take it apart?

 

Is this even needed??

 

You will need something to force the piston back in at least a few mm. Depending on how badly the current pads were worn.

Dan

 

As long as you can get the C-clamp over the back of the caliper and keep the pad on the piston then this is probably big enougy. I used one of those small trigger style clamps a couple of weeks ago to retact the piston. Good luck.

 

I normally slide a screwdriver in GENTLY through the inspection opening between the pad and the rotor, on the piston side. Since new pads each have about 3/8 inch of material, push the piston in enough for the new pads. Note: if your brake fluid reservoir is full, pushing the piston back may cause some of the fluid to overflow. Just FYI in case you care about your driveway.

 

NEVER NEVER NEVER EVER EVER!!!!!!!!!!!!! Push back the old fluid back into the reservoir.

1) Your pushing pre-boiled fluid ouf of the piston and back into the hose.
2) Your fluid has a dry and wet boling point. DRY=NEW, WET=OLD
3) DRY= 490-600F, WET=220-380F.
4) WET= BRAKE FADE even with new pads.
5) If you have ABS you could damage the servo by spining it backwards.
6) If you have EBD you could damage the bias adjuster
7) Your fakin ur self in the pooper by not draining out some of the old fluid.


The proper way to push back the piston is to release the drain valve on the caliper and then depress (not hammer) the piston with rubber mallot or squeeze with a C-Clamp.

Kamski

 

I ordered the pads yesterday from courtesy nissan for $50+$10 shipping, im not buying the $25 hardware set since the car has only been on the road for 3 years. I had the dealer do the back brakes a few months ago and I don't remember what the exact charge was but I know it was in the neiborhood of $200, the rotors were fine in the back, and I dont have any pulsating now so Im leaving the fronts on too.

I read a really nice detailed online guide with pix on doing this job and the guy simply opened the master cylinder and let it overflow when he pushed in the piston...I think im going that route as I don't plan on bleeding the brakes at all, I just want to pop the new pads in.

 

Kamski. I really like the method of using the bleed valve but I just followed what the manual said:

Shop manual BR-24
"3. Push the piston in so that the pad is firmly attached and attach
the cylinder body to the torque member NOTE: Using a disc brake piston tool (commercial service tool), makes it easier to push in the piston.
CAUTION: By pushing in the piston, the brake fluid returns to the master
cylinder reservoir tank. Watch the level of the surface of the reservoir tank.
4. Install the sliding pin bolt and tighten to the specified torque........."

I never use a C-clamp because I can't feel how much pressure its putting on the piston. With my wrist, I can control how much pressure I am using with the screwdriver (or flat object). When I do brakes, I normally bleed all four wheels anyway. It so easy on our car with the open rims.

Brake pads burnishing (break-in, shop manual BR-28):
" CAUTION: Only perform this procedure under safe road and traffic conditions. Use extreme caution.
1. Drive the vehicle on a straight smooth road at 50 km/h (31 MPH).
2. Use medium brake pedal /foot effort to bring the vehicle to a complete stop from 50 km/h (31 MPH). Adjust brake pedal /foot pressure such that vehicle stopping time equals 3 to 5 seconds.
3. To cool the brake system, drive the vehicle at 50 km/h (31 MPH) for 1 minute without stopping.
4. Repeat steps 1 to 3, 10 times or more to complete the burnishing procedure."