Hey everyone,
I'm looking to add some horsepower, without any indication. This means nothing loud/obvious like exhaust, etc. What can I do? This is what I was already planning..

1) CAI - Fujita
2) Y-Pipe - CE
3) Headers - Cattman (Summer? PrjctMax)
4) ECU Reflash - TechnoSquare

What else? I'll update the list as you suggest

 

CAI=Fujita all the way!!!!!

Y-pipe=only one...and that's Custom Enterprize, but I would say hold off on that and get headers from Cattman which are coming out in summer..ish Also, many people have noticed a decrease throughout the whole RPM range in power.

Get an ECU reflash from technosquare...it's $495, IF you send out your ECU and have your car decomissioned for a few days, or just buy a new ECU for aroun $200-300 and then have the stealership install it for you and reprogram your keys for an additional $200ish...ECU is the best bang for buck for our car, no matter which route you take that I jsut listed. It takes away the governor, alters the fuel/air ratio, raises the redline to 7100 rpm from the stock 6600 and it makes the throttle open all the way when you are WOT instead of it closing slightly...this is all done with the safety of the motor still in mind.

You can also get a UDP, which doesn't add much, but it adds a little that will make you notice it slightly.

And then there is all the handling mods that will make you "keep up"
through the turns!!!

Any more questions, feel free to ask!!!

dan

 

Awesome Great answers!

Some more for ya:
1) What can I do for handling, struts?
2) Will fuel consumption go thru the roof with the new ECU?

 

can i reflash ecu first and than add whatever i want?????

 

Yea, more info on the reflash. Where do you send it, and what kind of HP difference does it really make?

 

You can get just the ecu, but if you get more mods afterwards then you would have to send out the ecu to get re-tuned for uptimal performance. Fuel consumption is supposed to be better (so claims technosquare) but if you keep on testing out the new governor then no it will not be better!

For more info and shipping check this out http://www.technosquareinc.com/

As for handling, Progress springs, KYB struts/shocks, progress RSB or get the NISMO sway bar kit fot the Altima...fitment is pending on that...Racingline endlinks, Racingline MMI (motor mount inserts), Racingline strut bar (comes out some time in february...$72 shipped if you pre-order...and then a Front sway bar from the Alrima SE-R or if you get the NISMO kit, then you will have both rear and front

dan

 

Z33/G35 ECU, raised rev limit, headers, intake, AFR modification, larger MAF housing....

 

IIRC, then he people that had the G35 ECU claimed that it bogged on the bottom end or when trying to floor it. And what is a AFR mod, and how would a larger MAF housing produce more power?

 

You don't know much do you?

 

ummmm ok, be an azz and not explain. I thought forums were a place for people to learn new things....................................

 

how about intake mani spacers like people with the g's/z's do?

 

The FWD IM doesn't work in the same manner as the RWD IM

 

AFR = Air-Fuel Ratio

and, the MAF is in the intake piping, no? Fujita would fix that...

an intake manifold spacer would help, but there's little clearance already, and I believe it causes interference with STB's..

my suggestions to keep quiet but fast, as long as money isn't an issue:
- Cams, heads, etc (pricey though)
- Y-Pipe (doesn't add much sound, from what I've read)
- ECU upgrade
- K&N only (a CAI can be loud, depending on how you drive)
- Suspension (helps a little anyway)
- Lightweight flywheel
- Lighter wheels

 

Show me a dyno .........

 

well, I didn't suggest it... so I'm not giving it THAT much credit... but it DOES help.. probably very little though.

 

Just like an UDP...helps a little, but not a lot!

 

wow ummmm I feel like a now, because I knew what those two meant, just haven't seen the abrreviation AFR too much and I wasn't thinking enough last night :gapt***h: And if that's what nhmax meant by bigger MAF housing, then I definately knew that, just never heard it put in those kind of words... i'm not as much of a as you think I am....

 

It wont help with our IM's at all.

 

Little addendum here : If you get a second ECU, send both in. Technosquare can copy the immobilizer code to the spare ECU for $150 (if I remember) and send back the original in a few days. That is what I did. You get the spare back within a week. I would not want to see the dealer touch my ECU to reset the immobilizer code.

 

The stealership would not be able to re-program anything about the new ECU...this is what tekniq told me and he actually did this I believe.

 

Some got 15-17WHP with the flashed ECU coupled with the Apexi AFC.

As you add Y-pipe, CAI or headers, the air/fuel mix (A/F) becomes real lean ==> loss of power at low rpm (3-5k). At partial throttle the ECU compensates for the lean A/F but at WOT, lean lean lean.

I found the Technosquare A/F still way too lean at low rpm. Not happy. I drilled a few holes in my MAF sensor ( check my little pic below ). With this ( mad ) mod, the ECU detects more air flow and richen the A/F. And, no I did not inhale any NOS to come up with this mod. Not recommended for the noob.

Y-pipe gave me better low-end torque
CAI improves fuel mpg by 1-2 (free flowing air, and leaner) but loud at WOT
Get a CAI with cold air from the fender, not from engine bay (air too hot)
My MAF mod - 2 mpg drop (richer, back to pre CAI a/f mix)

Seems SE-R Altima headers work real well
CAM install is very pricey (and a high tech project, 12hrs+ at the dealer)

NOS anyone?

 

WOW, that is some good info! But with the ECU reflash, they have a "default" one that has the Fujita intake already incorporated in the reflash...and why do they ask for the mods that you have if they wouldn't even do anything about them? (richen/lean the mixture) So technosqaure+SAFC=smartest/best idea?

What is "Edead?"

 

Great answers guys, helps alot

 

Add a wideband to that list.

 

What's a wideband?

 

Edead, Dynamat, B-Quiet, are sound deadening material.

 

This may be complete horse crap, so tell me if it sounds right. I was told that light weight rims add the equivalent of 14 hp. Here’s the logic.

A good forged-aluminum rim weighs about 17 pounds. Our stock cast-aluminum rim weighs 28 pounds each. Therefore each forged rim is 11 pounds lighter, which saves the car a total of 44 pounds. However that’s 44 pounds of rotating mass. Depending on who you talk to, one pound of rotating mass has the same inertia as four pounds of static mass. That means the 44 pound reduction in wheel weight is equal to a 176 pound reduction of regular weight. If a stock Maxima weighs 3,400 lbs with 28 pound rims, it will have an effective weight of 3,224 lbs. with 17 pound rims.

How does that translate to horsepower? With 265 hp (SAE non-adjusted), a stock 3,400 pound Maxima has a horsepower-to-weight ratio of 12.83 to one. With the same 265 horsepower engine, a 3,224 pound Maxima has a horsepower-to-weight ratio of 12.16 to one. In order for the stock 3,400 pound Maxima to have the same 12.16 to one ratio, it would need 279 hp. That’s a 14 hp difference. And IF this is true, and let me emphasize the word IF, this power cannot be neutralized by an ECU that attempts to compensate for changes in engine characteristics.

Real or horse crap?

 

LW wheels will add some whp on a DJ248c.

 

Larger MAF housing makes the car run leaner. Higher FP&/or larger injectors makes up for that and hopefully it can be made rich so that one can take away fuel via MAF conditioning, and in affect, add some timing by doing so.

 

And how do you get larger MAF housing with CAI??? The MAF sensor is bolted inside the pipe and not separate housing unit.

 

And toss it in a larger housing with the matching bolt pattern.

 

??? Thats a picture of the MAF sensor which still doesn't answer my question.

 

If you look closely then you can tell that he drilled 3 little holes near the bottom of it...this tricks the MAF and makes it run richer...quoting him

 

I've seen the holes and read the threads but he said a larger MAF housing and that picture certainly doesn't show that.

The MAF housing is the plastic piece where the MAF sensor is installed in an OEM setup. With CAI, the entire assembly is replaced with single pipe so I am wondering what is the guy exactly saying.

 

Transplant your MAF sensor into a larger housing




Since you fellas use the same MAF as the Z33, there are places to buy larger housings out there.

This one is a custom unit. Since most of the Z33 upgrades are 90$ and higher

 

Aparently, you have never seen the FUJITA CAI. Are you talking about the MAF housing or the MAF holder???

 

buy a Maxima.org decal........... it should add at least 15HP

 

 

...and where does exactly one mounts it with CAI ???

 

I use couplers. Stock ones actually.