Well Im keeping my max!

Wondering whats the best website, to order Maxima Performance parts or if their are any?

Also what do you guys think about this exhaust?
Cheap **** or ???


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/04-05...spagenameZWDVW

04-05 NISSAN MAXIMA SE 3.5L STAINLESS CATBACK EXHAUST from ebay for 299.99


Thanx

 

Cattman, Stillen, Activetuning

 

That exhaust used to be $399, a few have them and like them. As for Cattman, it's best to see what thry have listed in the GB, their website is not up-to-date.

 

you will loose power with that exhaust by itself FYI.

 

I could think of better things to do performance wise w/ $299.

 

True I have that exhaust only it's the greddy SP-2 version and I have lost some back pressure as well as low end torque

 

This statement is wrong.

Back pressure is ALWAYS bad, so losing it will ALWAYS gain power.

 

LOLzzz

 

I dunno, but the our cars don't seem to like it.

I dynoed in 4hp more than he did with just an intake. he has the same intake and that exhaust.

 

4hp is negligible and could due to variance in machine/vehicle set-up/ambient conditions.

The power in these vehicles comes from headers, not cat backs.

 

Fixed...

 

I get that.

just to put it in perspective, I gained 12hp with an intake alone, all stock.

he gained 8hp with the same intake and a cattback exhaust.

all cattbacks eliminate some cripped pipe along the stock exhaust. could that be a back pressure issue? cause I find it weird he didn't make as much power with those mods.

let me just add, that exhaust has bigger piping than our stock exhaust also.

 

I also have the ce y-pipe. And after my ECU comes back from TS these issues should be resolved.

 

I hope so, cause I'd be pissed. all that money on mods and hardly any gain.

what gear did ya'll dyno at?

 

I've dynod in different gears, and the lower the gear, the lower the torque. (- 2-3%).
Interesting, now they're playing with 06's.

Stock wb's ftw.

It's all in the headers I tell you.

 

I know I can't wait to install my headers. I got them in the basement catching dust.

I'll have my runs for ya NmexMAX, cause I know you'll ask me for them lol..

this is the reason why I haven't done any exhaust mods, I didn't see a good enough power increase to go that route. thats why I bought the real exhaust mod, the headers. I don't belive in the y-pipe thing.

we'll see how it works out for me.

 

3rd @ 6500 rpm

 

[QUOTE


It's all in the headers I tell you.[/QUOTE]


I wish I had known that before I spent $800 plus.

 

I know I can't wait to install my headers. I got them in the basement catching dust.

I'll have my runs for ya NmexMAX, cause I know you'll ask me for them lol..

this is the reason why I haven't done any exhaust mods, I didn't see a good enough power increase to go that route. thats why I bought the real exhaust mod, the headers. I don't belive in the y-pipe thing.

we'll see how it works out for me.

This is very smart. I did the same and only tossed on ONLY headers and saw an amazing improvement. Only headers because I never saw and data to prove to me otherwise.

Yup, you know me.

Seems as if you're the most experienced in dynoing the AT in the 6th gen community. IIRC, you're the only member that has figured out how to redline (beyond in your case) the car on the dyno. But your tq convertor dip needs some refinement

 

that TQ convertor has gotten better over the process of my tunning, it still dips alittle, but seems to curve better with added fuel.

I'm dying to drop more fuel at around 3k cause of this, but I also want to see how the TS ecu handles these mods by itself.

 

Mine dips in manuamtic around 4th gear. So the TS flash should help that dip???

Tek how much fuel did TS give you down low between 1500-3000 rpm???

 

It's not a power/tuning issue, it's a mechanical issue.

Look at my first run, where I had trouble with it locking up. It did it on my first 4 runs. Try a different gear. Do you dyno in ONLY one gear, or does it shift during the dyno? I'll take a look at the FSM to see what exactly is going on there.



What is your AFR in that area (3000)

Also, how are you able to get that low and not downshift? (3k)

 

Do you have any hard data i.e AFR data to confirm said lean issue 'down low'? Unless you guys can confirm this lean issue, I would say that no, you don't have a lean issue. Also, remember that adding fuel retards timing and taking fuel away adds timing. Simple as that. We call know timing = power.

When are you guys going to be able to monitor AFR via data logging software or wb o2 sensor bunged before any catalytic convertor?

 

shawn: you don't want to tune below 3k if you drive your car daily, you will get horrible MPG.

NmexMAX: our car in manualmatic holds 3rd gear at 3k no problem. I usually run it on 4th as a test/ warm up run, and then go hard on 3rd.

my A/F is 14.65 at 3k, it dips down to 13.71 at about 4300 rpms, that gap right there is where the TQ dips down and then shoots up.

 

isnt that how yu get good low end torque though? I told TS I wanted good low end toque

 

low rpms aren't that lean though, you should be good. its just at 3k rpms is where you want the most fuel getting put in. below that you will get low MPG.

the TS map will be fine.

 

Tuning down low couldn't hurt. It depends on the set-up. My car is in the 14.7/8 range in that RPM when cruising around, but when WOT, I start my corrections @ ~ 2700. Your 3rd sounds like my 2nd, as I am able to hold lower RPM's w/o downshifting (as low as 2700) Does your dyno show the same blips in 4th gear like it does in 3rd gear? (tq convertor)

The hp/tq/AFR #'s at said blip are false. The spike in power is an AT issue. I too have experienced this, and was able to fix said spike by starting at the point right before it downshifted. Perhaps try a higher RPM range so that the converter wont lockup. Play with it and see what gets rid of it. That's what I had to do.

As for the AFR, I'd say you're richer than that due to you having all your cats in place. I have seen this in some of my dynos, they will read leaner than they actually are due to the catalytic(&precat) convertors.

AFR down low isn't the only way to get torque. Timing comes to my mind when thinking of torque.


IMO, you need true AFR data in order to tune properly. i.e a wideband bunged before any catalytic converters or, if you are an 05+ owner, an OBDII program/software thart reads AFR from said widebands. There are a couple of A34 members here that such devices.

 

NmexMAX:

our auto tranny has a trick that if you hold the shifter up on manualmatic it won't allow it to shift down, if you hold it down it won't shift up.

thats how I get my full 3rd gear run to 7100 rpms or so.

I can do a run starting at 2700 like you said with no trouble and can get you those run files.

4th gear was similar to 3rd actually, I just hate how it sounds on 4th, it don't have that TQ jerk as 3rd does lol..

so you recommend some fuel at 3k to match the rest of my AFR, and start at 2700rpms, thats no problem. since the AF isn't as bad like you say, I'll run like that with the headers and skip the piggy back for now.

 

Cool then I'll just have to wait and see what the TS flash does. Also when dynoed, it showed I was leaner that I actually was. I forgot to let TS know about it. But seeing as I told them I have a y-pipe they should know that it took out one of the cats.

NMex, will I need an AFC to further fine tune or will I have to wait to see what the dyno says.

 

I recommend a AFC on top of the TS ecu so that you an tune on the fly. tune whenever you need it at your request.

TS can do it, ut shipping it back and forth will run you a AFC unit. remember I had to send mines like 4 times to TS, thats 200 dollars in shipping alone.

get a AFC and tune it right on the spot.

 

Yeah that!!!

 

. Awesome :thumbsup

That's what I thought you would say. This would confirm said AT issue.

As far as the tuning goes. Well, it depends on the set-up. I was just stating what I had done. Since you have dyno time, might as well take advantage and use different AFR's to see best power for your application.



But not the main cat though. Again, refer to my other post about true AFR's etc. You also have an 06, so you have stock widebands, you just need something that will read them. TS IMO did a good job w/ my AFR.

 

[QUOTE=NmexMAX]

That's what I thought you would say. This would confirm said AT issue.



As far as the tuning goes. Well, it depends on the set-up. I was just stating what I had done. Since you have dyno time, might as well take advantage and use different AFR's to see best power for your application.



But not the main cat though. Again, refer to my other post about true AFR's etc. You also have an 06, so you have stock widebands, you just need something that will read them. TS IMO did a good job w/ my AFR.[/QUOTE



AFC it is

 

shawndon, talk to Tadashi and see what he can do on your ECU first. Get dyno after and see where you're at first. You may have to go back the the same dyno to get a better result, just tell them what you need to see or get the run file.

 

For the money spent on both a TS & AFC, why not go UTEC/EMU?

 

Yeah I will do th dyno first but if I need tuning I may do the AFC. I dont know about that dyno place I went before because they really only do rear wheel drive and my car almost slipped off the dyno the last run. This place I want to go to this time has a drum that goes all the way across the 2 front wheels.

 

I would like to go Utec for a AFC thats also why I've held off. I also think that the utec is overkill for N/A apps. reason for me getting a utec is cause I see a turbo down the line, so the utec is perfect.

I was lucky I didn't have to spend anything on my TS ecu eccept for the 200 on shipping plus dyno sessions, so for those that have to spend money for the ecu and afc will have to think about how far they are willing to mod in order to choose their afc option.

 

Where do you get the headers, and if installed are there any gains(dyno numbers) soo i guess fk the exhaust and go for the headers.