More power to the people!
05-27-2007, 05:26 PM
#1
More power to the people!
Gentlemen start your engines! Or better yet no need. This is for all of you who get tired of your cell phone or MP3 player not being charged when you need it. The fact that the ignition switch has to be in the "on" position to get power to your cigarette lighter has personally bummmed me out one too many times. I say NO MORE!!! While you sleep in your bed your cell phone or MP3 player can be charging to the Max in your Maxima.
So I present to thee a easy way to remedy this cowardly act by Nissan.
Purchase a "inline fuse holder" and arm it with a 15 Amp fuse.
Next take the fuse out of the "FR POWER SOCKET" slot in fuse box and remove outer plastic cover and separate like this.
Now solder a wire onto it at least 4ft long.
Insert it into left side of fuse holder like this. The great thing about this is you have a choice on which outlet you would like to be 24/7 on.
Passenger, center console next to stick shift (this I chose as in picture), or the socket underneath your armrest.
You can easily change it anytime in 1 minute flat.
Drill a small hole into engine compartment and run wire through it like so.
So I present to thee a easy way to remedy this cowardly act by Nissan.
Purchase a "inline fuse holder" and arm it with a 15 Amp fuse.
Next take the fuse out of the "FR POWER SOCKET" slot in fuse box and remove outer plastic cover and separate like this.
Now solder a wire onto it at least 4ft long.
Insert it into left side of fuse holder like this. The great thing about this is you have a choice on which outlet you would like to be 24/7 on.
Passenger, center console next to stick shift (this I chose as in picture), or the socket underneath your armrest.
You can easily change it anytime in 1 minute flat.
Drill a small hole into engine compartment and run wire through it like so.
05-27-2007, 05:35 PM
#2
Now attach wire to fuse holder and attach fuse holder to underside of strut cover like so.
Reattach strut cover and connect wire to battery with a ring such as this.
Finally always carry extra fuses with you wherever your travels may take you.
More power to the people!!!!
05-28-2007, 06:30 AM
#7
Originally Posted by KCmaxx
Are you serious...?
Smart one.
Smart one.
Having a "always on" power outlet in your vehicle does not make it a fire hazard. Period! I have the choice to fuse it as I please. For instance I could have put a .5 Amp fuse in seeing as tho a cell phone or MP3 draws current in the low couple of one hundreths of a Amp. If anything, the car would even be safer. When the socket is not in use you have a "open circuit" therefore no current draw whatsoever. If by some trial from God the socket shorted out the fuse would blow before any damage could occur.
Fuses are used in your vehicle/home and other places to limit the maximum current that can be drawn to protect "mainly wires" from overheating which can cause shorts, opens, and even fires.
Ignorance of AC & DC-not 24/7 power sockets has been a common denominator in terms of car fires.
Again, I challenge you to produce anything intelligent (not hysterical) to support your argument or implication thereof. Then a Electrical Engineer of 25 years like myself would more than thank you for a lesson learned.
Do explain yourself. If not you're just a ignoramus posting a picture of a burned car without a clue or a argument.
05-28-2007, 06:51 AM
#9
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 2,336
Good idea about the direct wire I suppose. Wouldn't it be easier to tap into a fuse location that had constant voltage already? I know they make fuse taps for regular fuses, might not make them for those PITA mini-fuses we have tho.
I may just rewire my armrest storage socket to be constant. I like the switched outlet in the passenger footwell. My Garmin GPS turns on and off automagically when it senses the 12V socket going on and off.
I too see no problem with running a constant wire to the battery, fused properly of course.
CM
I may just rewire my armrest storage socket to be constant. I like the switched outlet in the passenger footwell. My Garmin GPS turns on and off automagically when it senses the 12V socket going on and off.
I too see no problem with running a constant wire to the battery, fused properly of course.
CM
05-28-2007, 08:35 AM
#10
Originally Posted by coolmax05
Yes I'm serious. Apparently you know next to nothing about basic electricity. It won't be long before just about every new car from the factory has a "always on" power outlet in the car to meet todays demands.
Having a "always on" power outlet in your vehicle does not make it a fire hazard. Period! I have the choice to fuse it as I please. For instance I could have put a .5 Amp fuse in seeing as tho a cell phone or MP3 draws current in the low couple of one hundreths of a Amp. If anything, the car would even be safer. When the socket is not in use you have a "open circuit" therefore no current draw whatsoever. If by some trial from God the socket shorted out the fuse would blow before any damage could occur.
Fuses are used in your vehicle/home and other places to limit the maximum current that can be drawn to protect "mainly wires" from overheating which can cause shorts, opens, and even fires.
Ignorance of AC & DC-not 24/7 power sockets has been a common denominator in terms of car fires.
Again, I challenge you to produce anything intelligent (not hysterical) to support your argument or implication thereof. Then a Electrical Engineer of 25 years like myself would more than thank you for a lesson learned.
Do explain yourself. If not you're just a ignoramus posting a picture of a burned car without a clue or a argument.
Having a "always on" power outlet in your vehicle does not make it a fire hazard. Period! I have the choice to fuse it as I please. For instance I could have put a .5 Amp fuse in seeing as tho a cell phone or MP3 draws current in the low couple of one hundreths of a Amp. If anything, the car would even be safer. When the socket is not in use you have a "open circuit" therefore no current draw whatsoever. If by some trial from God the socket shorted out the fuse would blow before any damage could occur.
Fuses are used in your vehicle/home and other places to limit the maximum current that can be drawn to protect "mainly wires" from overheating which can cause shorts, opens, and even fires.
Ignorance of AC & DC-not 24/7 power sockets has been a common denominator in terms of car fires.
Again, I challenge you to produce anything intelligent (not hysterical) to support your argument or implication thereof. Then a Electrical Engineer of 25 years like myself would more than thank you for a lesson learned.
Do explain yourself. If not you're just a ignoramus posting a picture of a burned car without a clue or a argument.
05-28-2007, 11:00 AM
#11
Originally Posted by KCmaxx
You're right... You can ****er rig your car anyway you want. I should'nt have expected anything more from the guy who used a circular saw to "level" his springs. Maybe you should write the industry and tell them your brilliant idea. Better yet send them your pics and maybe, just maybe they will change the future of cars as we know it!!
I truly try to help people. That is my intent. I have had people over and spent all day with them strictly to help them. I may not make the best decisions all of the time but that is how one learns. With a little money I can reverse any and everything I have done. Now, I'm not here to start a war with you but lets face the fact you have proved your ignorance and now you know better (hopefully). At least you have learned something.
" Wouldn't it be easier to tap into a fuse location that had constant voltage already? I know they make fuse taps for regular fuses, might not make them for those PITA mini-fuses we have tho. "
"
"Nice way to make a nice car ghetto. A little bit of work with a ESM or a voltmeter would have showed you where to properly tap the constant power source already inside the car."
I could not find a constant souce of power that I felt I could tap into that would comfortably support as much as 15 Amps of current. Why not point it out since it's so easy to locate and do us all a big favor. I'm all ears. If nothing else this might lead to someone brighter like yourself showing us all a better way.
Once again I asked the question and used the search functions to no avail. As far as it looking ghetto, the wires can easily be hidden in the engine compartment. Tapping off the battery is always done with aftermarket audio equipment due to the massive amounts of current used. 15 Amps is nothing to sneeze at. That's why each power outlet has it's own fuse. The fuse holder is completely hidden and the whole process is reversable. I could not find a tap for a "mini" fuse holder so I made a reliable one.
I must say you folks are brutal. Pose the question on how to do it and get no answers whatsoever. Pose a possible answer and get told how ghetto, how easy it is to do, and pictures of burned cars.
You can start celebrating soon because I won't be posting on this site anymore soon. For those I have caused harm I am truly sorry.
BTW Thanks for your support Rick, "I just plug my cell phone into the wall socket at night" I'm so very glad I spent a couple of hours underneath your car installing springs, treated you to lunch, and provided pizza & beer while you were waiting for me to finish your car.
Good day gentlemen!
05-28-2007, 11:18 AM
#13
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 628
Originally Posted by coolmax05
I must say you folks are brutal. You can start celebrating soon because I won't be posting on this site anymore soon. For those I have caused harm I am truly sorry.
Good day gentlemen!
05-28-2007, 11:47 AM
#14
coolmax05, stick around. The 6th gen needs motivated drivers like you to get our aftermarket going. Ideas and concepts is how things come about. If no one tried anything except "dubs" and "sounds" then that's what cardomain is for. Truth is I never thought about wiring my own consistant 12v source until you started this thread.
05-28-2007, 01:26 PM
#15
Originally Posted by coolmax05
BTW Thanks for your support Rick, "I just plug my cell phone into the wall socket at night" I'm so very glad I spent a couple of hours underneath your car installing springs, treated you to lunch, and provided pizza & beer while you were waiting for me to finish your car.
Dude.... relax man.... my remark had no intention of hate.... Maybe a little retard-ism, but I was just trying to brighten up the scene after KCMaxx's pic comment...
I didnt take defense on your side because I didnt think KCCmax's comment would bother you so much...????
You have a good idea.... but its just not for me since I have a wall charger.... I dont see any harm in that?
Smile man.... life is too short.....
05-28-2007, 05:27 PM
#20
I am not hating or flaming but why would you want to charge your cell phone in your car all night when you can get this done in your home or hotel when you are traveling. Wouldn't you want to have your cell phone near you?
05-28-2007, 07:47 PM
#22
Originally Posted by ramberg
I am not hating or flaming but why would you want to charge your cell phone in your car all night when you can get this done in your home or hotel when you are traveling. Wouldn't you want to have your cell phone near you?
But could be usefull if you have one of those portable electric cooler.
05-28-2007, 09:32 PM
#23
Originally Posted by coolmax05
Yes I'm serious. Apparently you know next to nothing about basic electricity. It won't be long before just about every new car from the factory has a "always on" power outlet in the car to meet todays demands.......Ignorance of AC & DC-not 24/7 power sockets has been a common denominator in terms of car fires....Then a Electrical Engineer of 25 years like myself would more than thank you for a lesson learned.
Do explain yourself. If not you're just a ignoramus posting a picture of a burned car without a clue or a argument.
Do explain yourself. If not you're just a ignoramus posting a picture of a burned car without a clue or a argument.
1) For 12V, 15 amps circuit, I would use 16 AWG. That’s just me. In a short condition, the load will easily reach 18-20 amps before the fuse blows. A ‘made in China’ fuse may allow 25 amps.
2) I guess the 100 and 120 amp fuses under the red cover are for show? I would have read the service manual under “POWER SUPPLY, GROUND & CIRCUIT ELEMENTS“ and picked one of the circuit already fused, or just used a switch to trip the relay for the rear lighter.
3) Cars are subjected to vibrations. Wires must be securely attached to minimize stress/fatigue.....
4) The wire should have a grommet or some protection going through the firewall hole. Won’t take long before it shorts right there. May not burn the car down but will get a nice puff of red smoke from under the hood. I certainly never read the National Electrical Code from cover to cover but I think some of this is basic.
5) I would block the right side of the fuse holder. Otherwise your hot wire will send power to the accessories, BCM, etc and drain the battery dead.
6) Ok, +1 for soldering the wire.
God will not short the circuit, physics will. I would have expected such instructions from a newbie or with a car radio made in some third world country but not from an electrical engineer. Please tell me you don’t work for Boeing, Amtrak, OTIS elevator’s or GE ! Since you have stats on automobile fires, you probably work for the NTSB. I feel better already.
05-29-2007, 10:35 AM
#25
"For 12V, 15 amps circuit, I would use 16 AWG."
First off voltage has nothing to do with wire guage in this case.
Secondly, the socket is only being used for charging my cell phone and MP3 player (couple hundred milliamps max of current draw). I don't smoke. If I did I would have used a different socket for 24/7 power and left the closest one for the cigarette lighter. It won't hurt to use a 1 amp fuse so I will. Trust me the guage is overkill for charging cell phones or MP3 players.
"That’s just me. In a short condition, the load will easily reach 18-20 amps before the fuse blows. A ‘made in China’ fuse may allow 25 amps."
This is flat out just a foolish statement. Was it calculated? bench proven? A educated guess? Where on earth do you get this stuff man?
In a shorted condition for the first few nano or microseconds it could be much more. None the less it takes time for heat to be generated. Again, it is impossible for anything bad to happen seeing as tho a in line fuse is being utilized.
"I guess the 100 and 120 amp fuses under the red cover are for show?"
I don't know what you're talking about regarding this statement.
I would have read the service manual under “POWER SUPPLY, GROUND & CIRCUIT ELEMENTS“ and picked one of the circuit already fused"
I already addressed this. When you use a pre-existing fuse already being used for something else you have a far more risky situation. It is a good idea to keep them seperate. Why not point out what you're talking about. Talk is cheap.
"use a switch to trip the relay for the rear lighter"
Let me get this strait. Go buy a relay then wire that up to 12 volts-presumably through a fuse. Then buy a switch which in turn will be used to close the contacts of the relay by way of a magnetic field caused by a small amount of current running through a transformer built into the relay which in turn will provide 12 volts to the socket. Of course the switch needs to be wired to voltage as well to close the relay. Brilliant!!! And...simple. I wonder why no car manufacter in the world is using this technique to power thier power outlets. Please elaborate on why a relay should be used to power a lighter socket.
"Cars are subjected to vibrations. Wires must be securely attached to minimize stress/fatigue....."
Honestly, it's not that serious. It's not a F15 fighter pulling 30 G's. It is however a good idea to tie everything down in general (ya got me).
4) The wire should have a grommet or some protection going through the firewall hole. Won’t take long before it shorts right there.
Again it's not a MIG fighter aircraft. Consider this; the weight of the wire and the G forces applied. This is a gross exagerration on your part. Furthermore there is absolutely nothing scientific to support that argument. Just rhetoric on your behalf.
"May not burn the car down but will get a nice puff of red smoke from under the hood. I certainly never read the National Electrical Code from cover to cover but I think some of this is basic."
You must be smoking something. What kind of ridiculous statement is that. "Nice puff of red smoke" Honestly pal you're over your head.
"I would block the right side of the fuse holder. Otherwise your hot wire will send power to the accessories, BCM, etc and drain the battery dead."
LOL You're killing me man. I do have plans to clean it up a bit but my main premise was to show how it could easily be done. I really think it would have been impossible to keep you from negatively chiming in. Point taken in either case.
"God will not short the circuit, physics will. I would have expected such instructions from a newbie or with a car radio made in some third world country but not from an electrical engineer."
Going for the mean spirited jugular now huh? What you expect means nothing to me. You have proven yourself to be unkind and foolish. There are nicer ways to get a message across such as a PM. I replied publically because you have.
"Please tell me you don’t work for Boeing, Amtrak, OTIS elevator’s or GE !"
No I don't work for Boeing, Amtrak, ect...you can sleep now.
"Since you have stats on automobile fires, you probably work for the NTSB."
What have I done to you man? Why are you such a jerk? Honestly, I have no idea why you're firing torpedos at me. In either case, hopefully you enjoyed it as much as I didn't.
BTW 2007 Maximas have this option. Nissan has already recognized a need for this.
Peace
First off voltage has nothing to do with wire guage in this case.
Secondly, the socket is only being used for charging my cell phone and MP3 player (couple hundred milliamps max of current draw). I don't smoke. If I did I would have used a different socket for 24/7 power and left the closest one for the cigarette lighter. It won't hurt to use a 1 amp fuse so I will. Trust me the guage is overkill for charging cell phones or MP3 players.
"That’s just me. In a short condition, the load will easily reach 18-20 amps before the fuse blows. A ‘made in China’ fuse may allow 25 amps."
This is flat out just a foolish statement. Was it calculated? bench proven? A educated guess? Where on earth do you get this stuff man?
In a shorted condition for the first few nano or microseconds it could be much more. None the less it takes time for heat to be generated. Again, it is impossible for anything bad to happen seeing as tho a in line fuse is being utilized.
"I guess the 100 and 120 amp fuses under the red cover are for show?"
I don't know what you're talking about regarding this statement.
I would have read the service manual under “POWER SUPPLY, GROUND & CIRCUIT ELEMENTS“ and picked one of the circuit already fused"
I already addressed this. When you use a pre-existing fuse already being used for something else you have a far more risky situation. It is a good idea to keep them seperate. Why not point out what you're talking about. Talk is cheap.
"use a switch to trip the relay for the rear lighter"
Let me get this strait. Go buy a relay then wire that up to 12 volts-presumably through a fuse. Then buy a switch which in turn will be used to close the contacts of the relay by way of a magnetic field caused by a small amount of current running through a transformer built into the relay which in turn will provide 12 volts to the socket. Of course the switch needs to be wired to voltage as well to close the relay. Brilliant!!! And...simple. I wonder why no car manufacter in the world is using this technique to power thier power outlets. Please elaborate on why a relay should be used to power a lighter socket.
"Cars are subjected to vibrations. Wires must be securely attached to minimize stress/fatigue....."
Honestly, it's not that serious. It's not a F15 fighter pulling 30 G's. It is however a good idea to tie everything down in general (ya got me).
4) The wire should have a grommet or some protection going through the firewall hole. Won’t take long before it shorts right there.
Again it's not a MIG fighter aircraft. Consider this; the weight of the wire and the G forces applied. This is a gross exagerration on your part. Furthermore there is absolutely nothing scientific to support that argument. Just rhetoric on your behalf.
"May not burn the car down but will get a nice puff of red smoke from under the hood. I certainly never read the National Electrical Code from cover to cover but I think some of this is basic."
You must be smoking something. What kind of ridiculous statement is that. "Nice puff of red smoke" Honestly pal you're over your head.
"I would block the right side of the fuse holder. Otherwise your hot wire will send power to the accessories, BCM, etc and drain the battery dead."
LOL You're killing me man. I do have plans to clean it up a bit but my main premise was to show how it could easily be done. I really think it would have been impossible to keep you from negatively chiming in. Point taken in either case.
"God will not short the circuit, physics will. I would have expected such instructions from a newbie or with a car radio made in some third world country but not from an electrical engineer."
Going for the mean spirited jugular now huh? What you expect means nothing to me. You have proven yourself to be unkind and foolish. There are nicer ways to get a message across such as a PM. I replied publically because you have.
"Please tell me you don’t work for Boeing, Amtrak, OTIS elevator’s or GE !"
No I don't work for Boeing, Amtrak, ect...you can sleep now.
"Since you have stats on automobile fires, you probably work for the NTSB."
What have I done to you man? Why are you such a jerk? Honestly, I have no idea why you're firing torpedos at me. In either case, hopefully you enjoyed it as much as I didn't.
BTW 2007 Maximas have this option. Nissan has already recognized a need for this.
Peace
05-29-2007, 12:34 PM
#27
Nations 1st 6th Gen Turbo
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Displaced New Yorker in Southern, MD
Posts: 10,202
Originally Posted by SR20DEN
Nice way to make a nice car ghetto.
A little bit of work with a ESM or a voltmeter would have showed you where to properly tap the constant power source already inside the car.
A little bit of work with a ESM or a voltmeter would have showed you where to properly tap the constant power source already inside the car.
05-29-2007, 02:43 PM
#29
honestly, i don't see what's so wrong in what coolmax05's trying to do. instead of entertaining new ideas and helping him suceed in his project, some of you are putting him down and being jerks to him. cmon now, we're all mature here. i'm not targetting anyone in specific, but generally speaking - let the guy do what he wants to do, it's his car - u want to help him? help him but if u want to put him down then steer away.
i own a 2007 maxima. i personally don't leave my cell phone in my car for charging but the "always on" option comes factory in my car. when taz (joe) was installing the front mmi in my car, we hooked up a light to the always on option while the car was turned off that helped him install the mmi. i didn't really read his posts as i'm not knowledgeable in this area. he seems like he's knowledgeable, let him try whatever he's doing, the only reason he started this topic was so that he could get some help from you guys. i would have helped him out but i don't know anything in this area. so help the guy suceed in his project, if not today, tommorow he just might be one of those guys who'd help you suceed in his project and also, from the info available in this topic, you all could use it for the pre-07 maximas. Good luck coolmax05, hopefully you suceed in your project.
i own a 2007 maxima. i personally don't leave my cell phone in my car for charging but the "always on" option comes factory in my car. when taz (joe) was installing the front mmi in my car, we hooked up a light to the always on option while the car was turned off that helped him install the mmi. i didn't really read his posts as i'm not knowledgeable in this area. he seems like he's knowledgeable, let him try whatever he's doing, the only reason he started this topic was so that he could get some help from you guys. i would have helped him out but i don't know anything in this area. so help the guy suceed in his project, if not today, tommorow he just might be one of those guys who'd help you suceed in his project and also, from the info available in this topic, you all could use it for the pre-07 maximas. Good luck coolmax05, hopefully you suceed in your project.
05-29-2007, 03:10 PM
#30
people have opinions, and are willing to voice it. not everyone will like the idea...
anyhow, i would get some wire loom or something, and cover that red wire up so it'll 'hide' better in the engine compartment. or maybe run it under the filter box. it should make it look more presentable.
anyhow, i would get some wire loom or something, and cover that red wire up so it'll 'hide' better in the engine compartment. or maybe run it under the filter box. it should make it look more presentable.
05-29-2007, 03:14 PM
#31
agreed, people have opinions. there's a certain "way" to give out opinions as well without hurting anyone's feelings or putting them down. that's all i'm trying to say, give the guy a break, he ain't doing nothing wrong for anyone to put him down, don't like the idea - tell him why but with respect.
05-29-2007, 03:34 PM
#32
Cool Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Goodyear, AZ
Posts: 526
coolmax05 posted some questions about this before he did it, and nobody seemed to have an idea how to help him, but once he figured a way himself and showed it to everyone, then he got some harsh comments. If you have a better idea than him, then share please... This info is helpful to some people who needs it.
05-29-2007, 05:03 PM
#33
agreed, people have opinions. there's a certain "way" to give out opinions as well without hurting anyone's feelings or putting them down. that's all i'm trying to say, give the guy a break, he ain't doing nothing wrong for anyone to put him down, don't like the idea - tell him why but with respect.
coolmax05 posted some questions about this before he did it, and nobody seemed to have an idea how to help him, but once he figured a way himself and showed it to everyone, then he got some harsh comments. If you have a better idea than him, then share please... This info is helpful to some people who needs it.
Thanks Trance, thanks Ron,thanks Smokin', thanks Lobe, can't begin to tell you how much I appreciate your kind remarks.
I was only trying to help others and you get slammed in the process. You guys are the exception. I posted the results really quick before I cleaned everything up. I just assumed people knew how to hide/clean there own setups. My focal point was on the theory. In a couple of days you'd never know I did this Mod by opening my hood or otherwise. Everything will be tucked , cleaned, clamped, and wrapped.
This Mod is optional. Meaning if you need it (like I do all the time) use it otherwise it's ready if you do. I never use my cell phone in the house because of weak reception. It's always in the car-now it can stay there.
I workout and hike a lot. My MP3 player runs low during the workout a lot. So I charge it while I'm not in the car because most of my trips are short.
The last couple of days have been great in regards to my cell phone and MP3 player because I know they are charged and ready. They stay in my vehicle where I need them.
In regards to Mad I will explain what a relay does.
A relay is a eletrical switch usually used to control large currents by way of a small current. A relay has a built in transformer hooked up to contacts and usually a spring. When the small switch is activated it causes current flow thru the transformer which in turn causes a magnetic field which physically moves the contacts overriding the spring tension to a closed contact position. The contacts can handle very large amounts of currents and very high voltages. For instance this technique allows IC's operating in the low milliamp range to control very high currents in the 50 Amp range.
To utilize a relay for controlling voltages to a cigarette lighter socket is not practical. In effect a switch to operate another switch. Both switches needing to be "HOT" slash wired to a power source.
You have a very nice car. I like your style. I'm really sorry I have caused you to worry in regards to elavators, airplanes, and such. My incompetance as you describe it "work wise" is limited to non moving objects.
coolmax05 posted some questions about this before he did it, and nobody seemed to have an idea how to help him, but once he figured a way himself and showed it to everyone, then he got some harsh comments. If you have a better idea than him, then share please... This info is helpful to some people who needs it.
Thanks Trance, thanks Ron,thanks Smokin', thanks Lobe, can't begin to tell you how much I appreciate your kind remarks.
I was only trying to help others and you get slammed in the process. You guys are the exception. I posted the results really quick before I cleaned everything up. I just assumed people knew how to hide/clean there own setups. My focal point was on the theory. In a couple of days you'd never know I did this Mod by opening my hood or otherwise. Everything will be tucked , cleaned, clamped, and wrapped.
This Mod is optional. Meaning if you need it (like I do all the time) use it otherwise it's ready if you do. I never use my cell phone in the house because of weak reception. It's always in the car-now it can stay there.
I workout and hike a lot. My MP3 player runs low during the workout a lot. So I charge it while I'm not in the car because most of my trips are short.
The last couple of days have been great in regards to my cell phone and MP3 player because I know they are charged and ready. They stay in my vehicle where I need them.
In regards to Mad I will explain what a relay does.
A relay is a eletrical switch usually used to control large currents by way of a small current. A relay has a built in transformer hooked up to contacts and usually a spring. When the small switch is activated it causes current flow thru the transformer which in turn causes a magnetic field which physically moves the contacts overriding the spring tension to a closed contact position. The contacts can handle very large amounts of currents and very high voltages. For instance this technique allows IC's operating in the low milliamp range to control very high currents in the 50 Amp range.
To utilize a relay for controlling voltages to a cigarette lighter socket is not practical. In effect a switch to operate another switch. Both switches needing to be "HOT" slash wired to a power source.
You have a very nice car. I like your style. I'm really sorry I have caused you to worry in regards to elavators, airplanes, and such. My incompetance as you describe it "work wise" is limited to non moving objects.
05-29-2007, 05:36 PM
#34
Guest
Posts: n/a
Gas to drive to the hardware store and back..... 5 Dollars
Mile of Wire..... 10 Dollars
Verizon phone charger from store.....20 Dollars
2 Hours under the hood to save 5 dollars......Priceless
There are some things money can't buy. .... ..... .... ....
Alex
Mile of Wire..... 10 Dollars
Verizon phone charger from store.....20 Dollars
2 Hours under the hood to save 5 dollars......Priceless
There are some things money can't buy. .... ..... .... ....
Alex
05-29-2007, 05:44 PM
#35
^^^Yet another example of what not to say!^^^^^ (21 posts it is)
How's that for priceless?
CoolMax,
Thanks for venturing out. Thanks for the innovative thinking! It is easier to criticize an idea rather than think and make a wise statement.
Pm sent!
Swee
How's that for priceless?
CoolMax,
Thanks for venturing out. Thanks for the innovative thinking! It is easier to criticize an idea rather than think and make a wise statement.
Pm sent!
Swee
05-29-2007, 06:20 PM
#36
Originally Posted by SickSE
Gas to drive to the hardware store and back..... 5 Dollars
Mile of Wire..... 10 Dollars
Verizon phone charger from store.....20 Dollars
2 Hours under the hood to save 5 dollars......Priceless
There are some things money can't buy. .... ..... .... ....
Alex
Mile of Wire..... 10 Dollars
Verizon phone charger from store.....20 Dollars
2 Hours under the hood to save 5 dollars......Priceless
There are some things money can't buy. .... ..... .... ....
Alex
05-29-2007, 10:30 PM
#38
Coolmax05 asked for a challenge when he posted:
"Again, I challenge you to produce anything intelligent (not hysterical) to support your argument or implication thereof. Then a Electrical Engineer of 25 years like myself would more than thank you for a lesson learned.
Do explain yourself. If not you're just a ignoramus posting a picture of a burned car without a clue or a argument. "
I answered. Coolmax05 indicated a 15 amp fuse, I say wrong gauge based on the pictures.
Lift the red plastic cover on the positive battery post and you will find the 100 amp fuses I mentioned. Nissan could have run a wire directly to the fuse box. They decided to complicate things by adding these fuses. I wonder why? Red wire --> red smoke…
The service manual is available online for free. The electrical circuits for the Max are well depicted. This link was posted many times.
http://www.phatg20.net/modules.php?n...titleA&show=10
In the PG.pdf section, the diagram shows the rear socket energized by a relay, one of many dozens of relays controlling various components of this car. Again, why did Nissan add complexity and cost with so many relays?
An spst toggle switch would suffice to turn the relay on or off, on-demand, to energize the rear socket. For the other sockets, I would consider power from the fuse box.
I did not question the need for the 24/7 socket. I questioned the expertise when Coolmax05 publicly stated that he was an Electrical Engineer and, IMO, lead some to believe that this 24/7 circuit was safe, and effective. I strongly disagree. Coolmax05 was the first to throw the stone at KCmaxx with “ignoramus” and then asked for a challenge. My answers were polite.
"Again, I challenge you to produce anything intelligent (not hysterical) to support your argument or implication thereof. Then a Electrical Engineer of 25 years like myself would more than thank you for a lesson learned.
Do explain yourself. If not you're just a ignoramus posting a picture of a burned car without a clue or a argument. "
I answered. Coolmax05 indicated a 15 amp fuse, I say wrong gauge based on the pictures.
Lift the red plastic cover on the positive battery post and you will find the 100 amp fuses I mentioned. Nissan could have run a wire directly to the fuse box. They decided to complicate things by adding these fuses. I wonder why? Red wire --> red smoke…
The service manual is available online for free. The electrical circuits for the Max are well depicted. This link was posted many times.
http://www.phatg20.net/modules.php?n...titleA&show=10
In the PG.pdf section, the diagram shows the rear socket energized by a relay, one of many dozens of relays controlling various components of this car. Again, why did Nissan add complexity and cost with so many relays?
An spst toggle switch would suffice to turn the relay on or off, on-demand, to energize the rear socket. For the other sockets, I would consider power from the fuse box.
I did not question the need for the 24/7 socket. I questioned the expertise when Coolmax05 publicly stated that he was an Electrical Engineer and, IMO, lead some to believe that this 24/7 circuit was safe, and effective. I strongly disagree. Coolmax05 was the first to throw the stone at KCmaxx with “ignoramus” and then asked for a challenge. My answers were polite.
05-30-2007, 01:12 AM
#39
Originally Posted by madmik
Coolmax05 asked for a challenge when he posted:
"Again, I challenge you to produce anything intelligent (not hysterical) to support your argument or implication thereof. Then a Electrical Engineer of 25 years like myself would more than thank you for a lesson learned.
Do explain yourself. If not you're just a ignoramus posting a picture of a burned car without a clue or a argument. "
I answered. Coolmax05 indicated a 15 amp fuse, I say wrong gauge based on the pictures.
Lift the red plastic cover on the positive battery post and you will find the 100 amp fuses I mentioned. Nissan could have run a wire directly to the fuse box. They decided to complicate things by adding these fuses. I wonder why? Red wire --> red smoke…
The service manual is available online for free. The electrical circuits for the Max are well depicted. This link was posted many times.
http://www.phatg20.net/modules.php?n...titleA&show=10
In the PG.pdf section, the diagram shows the rear socket energized by a relay, one of many dozens of relays controlling various components of this car. Again, why did Nissan add complexity and cost with so many relays?
An spst toggle switch would suffice to turn the relay on or off, on-demand, to energize the rear socket. For the other sockets, I would consider power from the fuse box.
I did not question the need for the 24/7 socket. I questioned the expertise when Coolmax05 publicly stated that he was an Electrical Engineer and, IMO, lead some to believe that this 24/7 circuit was safe, and effective. I strongly disagree. Coolmax05 was the first to throw the stone at KCmaxx with “ignoramus” and then asked for a challenge. My answers were polite.
"Again, I challenge you to produce anything intelligent (not hysterical) to support your argument or implication thereof. Then a Electrical Engineer of 25 years like myself would more than thank you for a lesson learned.
Do explain yourself. If not you're just a ignoramus posting a picture of a burned car without a clue or a argument. "
I answered. Coolmax05 indicated a 15 amp fuse, I say wrong gauge based on the pictures.
Lift the red plastic cover on the positive battery post and you will find the 100 amp fuses I mentioned. Nissan could have run a wire directly to the fuse box. They decided to complicate things by adding these fuses. I wonder why? Red wire --> red smoke…
The service manual is available online for free. The electrical circuits for the Max are well depicted. This link was posted many times.
http://www.phatg20.net/modules.php?n...titleA&show=10
In the PG.pdf section, the diagram shows the rear socket energized by a relay, one of many dozens of relays controlling various components of this car. Again, why did Nissan add complexity and cost with so many relays?
An spst toggle switch would suffice to turn the relay on or off, on-demand, to energize the rear socket. For the other sockets, I would consider power from the fuse box.
I did not question the need for the 24/7 socket. I questioned the expertise when Coolmax05 publicly stated that he was an Electrical Engineer and, IMO, lead some to believe that this 24/7 circuit was safe, and effective. I strongly disagree. Coolmax05 was the first to throw the stone at KCmaxx with “ignoramus” and then asked for a challenge. My answers were polite.
Regarding the relay you speak of. My understanding is that you must have the prefered elite package which comes with a powered rear console. I do not. Same goes for most other Maxima owners. Furthermore the always on socket would be way in the back of the vehicle even if you did-which is ok I guess.
Thanks for pointing out the wiring diagram. As you can see from that the two sockets on the center console (next to the stick shift & under the arm rest) are tied to the same fuse marked #5 on the diagram. Fuse #7 is used for the socket to the left of the glove compartment. #17 on my car and most Maximas are not being used for anything. Correct me if I'm wrong. If you have the elite package the rear power socket relay is operated/closed via the ignition switch. It would not be a easy task to bybass the switch/find the right spot. Furthermore since the relay operates on current wiring it full time hot would lead to 24 hour current draw through the coil. Iregardless of whether something is plugged into the power socket or not. How much current I do not know. I imagine Nissan used a relay for the powered elite package to make it easier to implement (sorta plug & play). Yes I was aware that relays are used throughout a vehicle. It's a new one on me using it for a cigarette lighter. Thanks for pointing that out.
It's a great idea tho (using the rear power socket/relay). Just falls short in a few places like mine. Namely they do not exist in my vehicle. Also 24/7 current draw without anything plugged into the socket.
Regarding the 100 amp in series with "EVERYTHING" let alone the fuse box (parallel paths) the fuse holder I installed covers that issue.
I'm sorry if I confused anyone with the transformer statement. I was refering to the coil that transforms current through it into a magnetic field. I don't mean to be high and mighty but usage of the correct terms allows you to easily read about it on the internet.
I'm just a simple, humble, guy making humble, simple, mistakes. People like Madmilk keep me honest and enhance the learning process. Madmilk your arguments are good and they make me think. Your knowledge and attempted professionalism and etiquette are most appreciated.
BTW If this is polite I'd hate to see your furry "God will not short the circuit, physics will. I would have expected such instructions from a newbie or with a car radio made in some third world country but not from an electrical engineer. Please tell me you don’t work for Boeing, Amtrak, OTIS elevator’s or GE ! Since you have stats on automobile fires, you probably work for the NTSB. I feel better already."
Oh my, what a nice polite statement. Pure as the wind driven snow...
Why are people not as concerned with car amplifiers drawing 200 times more current and generating all kinds of heat in a small box sitting on top of your carpet in the trunk?
My next iteration will bypass the fuse box entirely. Admittedly I was looking for the easiest way to do it. Did not think people would want to take thier console apart to wire it directly to the socket.
05-30-2007, 04:31 AM
#40
NINE-time Maxima Owner
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Charlotte
Posts: 680
Funny thing.... been contemplating doing something similar but in reverse on my '07... drives me nuts that the console outlet is unswitched. Been cursing out Nissan about that for almost a year now.
Maybe its just being overly conservative, but I just don't feel comfortable leaving some POS phone charger made in a grass hut somewhere in the third world plugged in all the time in a hot car, buried deep in the console under everything else in there. And I hate having anything plugged into the dash... looks so tacky.
Maybe its just being overly conservative, but I just don't feel comfortable leaving some POS phone charger made in a grass hut somewhere in the third world plugged in all the time in a hot car, buried deep in the console under everything else in there. And I hate having anything plugged into the dash... looks so tacky.