Y pipe shipped and almost here...
FYI. Those of you who are afraid of doing it. I got sick of driving it up on ramps trying to get my rusted bolts off, o2 sensor issues, etc. So I just jacked up the drivers side of my car and slid under it. I was able to install it no problem laying on my garage floor with 1 wheel in the air.
No problem with putting one side of the car up in the air, but I've got to point out one real serious problem with this method...
You should never get under a car that's only held up by a jack. Doesn't matter what kind of jack, the rule is never because any jack, mechanical or hydraulic, can fail. No one wants "Gee, what happens when I twist this handle?" to be the last words they hear.
To avoid putting your life at risk, the vehicle has to be on a jack stand, or ramp (with rear wheels blocked and parking brake on, with the transmission in Park or 1st gear). Something solid that will support the weight of the car, with stability. Concrete blocks are NOT a solution (they can spontenously shatter like glass).
And, as far as getting crushed under a car, its not quick unless it mashes your skull instantly; this can be a long, very agonizing way to die.
Sorry to be a downer, but there's only two major ways to die in the course of
installing car parts - working with compressed springs and under a car - and a lot more people die under the car than with a spring through the head.
Brian
No problem with putting one side of the car up in the air, but I've got to point out one real serious problem with this method...
You should never get under a car that's only held up by a jack. Doesn't matter what kind of jack, the rule is never because any jack, mechanical or hydraulic, can fail. No one wants "Gee, what happens when I twist this handle?" to be the last words they hear.
To avoid putting your life at risk, the vehicle has to be on a jack stand, or ramp (with rear wheels blocked and parking brake on, with the transmission in Park or 1st gear). Something solid that will support the weight of the car, with stability. Concrete blocks are NOT a solution (they can spontenously shatter like glass).
And, as far as getting crushed under a car, its not quick unless it mashes your skull instantly; this can be a long, very agonizing way to die.
Sorry to be a downer, but there's only two major ways to die in the course of
installing car parts - working with compressed springs and under a car - and a lot more people die under the car than with a spring through the head.
Brian
You should never get under a car that's only held up by a jack. Doesn't matter what kind of jack, the rule is never because any jack, mechanical or hydraulic, can fail. No one wants "Gee, what happens when I twist this handle?" to be the last words they hear.
To avoid putting your life at risk, the vehicle has to be on a jack stand, or ramp (with rear wheels blocked and parking brake on, with the transmission in Park or 1st gear). Something solid that will support the weight of the car, with stability. Concrete blocks are NOT a solution (they can spontenously shatter like glass).
And, as far as getting crushed under a car, its not quick unless it mashes your skull instantly; this can be a long, very agonizing way to die.
Sorry to be a downer, but there's only two major ways to die in the course of
installing car parts - working with compressed springs and under a car - and a lot more people die under the car than with a spring through the head.
Brian
Sometimes what I do is put the 2 ton floor jack on and then put the jack from the trunk on it right next to the 2 ton. The trunk jack isn't supporting the car...but tight enough that if the 2 ton gave out it'd catch the car and save my life. I like having backups
I did see that post, but can't agree that 2 jacks is a solution. If the first jack suddenly fails and freely drops the weight of the car onto the second, even a fraction of an inch, its a classic failure scenario - especially if the second jack is a small one. The seals in a jack are designed to slowly lift the weight, not have it dropped onto it and the smaller the cylinder diameter, the more fragile the seals. Sure, you'd probably be OK, but probably just isn't good enough.
Please know I'm not trying to be a **** about this, I knew someone who died under a truck, so I'm especially careful. I sure wouldn't want to hear that somebody installing one of our products was injured or lost their life.
Brian
oh wow, that's not a way that I want to go...sorry about that Brian
__________________________________________________ _______
Well, on a happy note, I have noticed that my ECU "adjusted" more to the y-pipe and highway cruising is that much more fun! Passing people is that much easier and just touching the gas makes the car go without down-shifting.
And the noise...well I don't really notice it that much anymore since I don't have my ear out the window anymore, and I'm not one to be going crazy on normal streets that my car will actually be revving down from 3k. It's all good, and let's keep the mods coming Brian!
(mainly the manifolds 
)
__________________________________________________ _______
Well, on a happy note, I have noticed that my ECU "adjusted" more to the y-pipe and highway cruising is that much more fun! Passing people is that much easier and just touching the gas makes the car go without down-shifting.
And the noise...well I don't really notice it that much anymore since I don't have my ear out the window anymore, and I'm not one to be going crazy on normal streets that my car will actually be revving down from 3k. It's all good, and let's keep the mods coming Brian!
(mainly the manifolds )
oh wow, that's not a way that I want to go...sorry about that Brian
__________________________________________________ _______
Well, on a happy note, I have noticed that my ECU "adjusted" more to the y-pipe and highway cruising is that much more fun! Passing people is that much easier and just touching the gas makes the car go without down-shifting.
And the noise...well I don't really notice it that much anymore since I don't have my ear out the window anymore, and I'm not one to be going crazy on normal streets that my car will actually be revving down from 3k. It's all good, and let's keep the mods coming Brian! (mainly the manifolds )
__________________________________________________ _______
Well, on a happy note, I have noticed that my ECU "adjusted" more to the y-pipe and highway cruising is that much more fun! Passing people is that much easier and just touching the gas makes the car go without down-shifting.
And the noise...well I don't really notice it that much anymore since I don't have my ear out the window anymore, and I'm not one to be going crazy on normal streets that my car will actually be revving down from 3k. It's all good, and let's keep the mods coming Brian!
(mainly the manifolds )You're going to end up costing me $400!
Disclaimer: My bad you said "highway".
Last edited by coolmax05; Oct 2, 2007 at 06:51 PM.
I'm not sure if you're bashing me or joking around...
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 11
From: Newport Beach, CA
I recieved the Y pipe yesterday late. And this morning I had it installed for $45. I haven't had a chance yet to get on it and feel the difference in HP that you guys have talked about. And today after work I'll be installing my new smoke tail lights. I'll post pics later this weekend...
lol, My main problem was #1 and then the tech had a problem with #2, but both of us had #3 it's just that he had better ones!
On my ce y-pipe the flex section was actually wraped around into the tube its self causing an obstruction and a whistling noise.
The fix is to replace it or gut the interior flex section that is causing the obstruction.
Kamski
The fix is to replace it or gut the interior flex section that is causing the obstruction.
Kamski
I can say with certainty that there is no obstruction problem with our pipe. We've received a new y-pipe with lined flexes that will be installed on Monday afternoon.
Brian
I'm happy to report that we installed a fresh y-pipe that included the lined version of the flexes we used in the first batch. No "whoosh" was apparent under any circumstances, in gear moving, or in park sitting still. In fact, this was a stock exhaust and it was so quiet I couldn't even tell the y-pipe had been installed.
If you have one of our gen6 y-pipes (sold before 01 October) and its important to eliminate the whoosh, give us a call (520.759.9920, open 9-5 MST) and we can make arrangements to send it in. Do NOT send it back to Cattman without making prior arrangements because these are going directly to the fabricator for a quick turnaround.
As I stated earlier in this thread, it will work more or less like this - the customer sends it back, we fix and return at no cost, plus the customer will receive a $25 Cattman credit to offest the cost to ship it back.
I'll note that Cattman Performance will be closed this Thursday and Friday, back open on Monday, 15 October.
Brian
If you have one of our gen6 y-pipes (sold before 01 October) and its important to eliminate the whoosh, give us a call (520.759.9920, open 9-5 MST) and we can make arrangements to send it in. Do NOT send it back to Cattman without making prior arrangements because these are going directly to the fabricator for a quick turnaround.
As I stated earlier in this thread, it will work more or less like this - the customer sends it back, we fix and return at no cost, plus the customer will receive a $25 Cattman credit to offest the cost to ship it back.
I'll note that Cattman Performance will be closed this Thursday and Friday, back open on Monday, 15 October.
Brian
I'm happy to report that we installed a fresh y-pipe that included the lined version of the flexes we used in the first batch. No "whoosh" was apparent under any circumstances, in gear moving, or in park sitting still. In fact, this was a stock exhaust and it was so quiet I couldn't even tell the y-pipe had been installed.
If you have one of our gen6 y-pipes (sold before 01 October) and its important to eliminate the whoosh, give us a call (520.759.9920, open 9-5 MST) and we can make arrangements to send it in. Do NOT send it back to Cattman without making prior arrangements because these are going directly to the fabricator for a quick turnaround.
As I stated earlier in this thread, it will work more or less like this - the customer sends it back, we fix and return at no cost, plus the customer will receive a $25 Cattman credit to offest the cost to ship it back.
I'll note that Cattman Performance will be closed this Thursday and Friday, back open on Monday, 15 October.
Brian
If you have one of our gen6 y-pipes (sold before 01 October) and its important to eliminate the whoosh, give us a call (520.759.9920, open 9-5 MST) and we can make arrangements to send it in. Do NOT send it back to Cattman without making prior arrangements because these are going directly to the fabricator for a quick turnaround.
As I stated earlier in this thread, it will work more or less like this - the customer sends it back, we fix and return at no cost, plus the customer will receive a $25 Cattman credit to offest the cost to ship it back.
I'll note that Cattman Performance will be closed this Thursday and Friday, back open on Monday, 15 October.
Brian
That would be OK, you'll just want to coordinate the ship date with us so it doesn't arrive during during any holidy closure at the manufacturer.
Brian
Check the installation. There are about ten installed out there and we haven't had any reports of rattles and I don't really know what could rattle on the thing.
Everyone, always remember, you've got to go back and re-tighten those 8 nuts a couple days after the installation. Best way to avoid gasket burn-out, because they'll fry if the gasses cross the gasket face.
Brian
You can try to replace it and get new bolts? Not sure if that works...
You can also just take it off, but you run the chance of burning wires etc. Some get real close, could be bad...
Now the funny thing is that i had this same rattle PRIOR to the ypipe, i installed the cattman y pipe and now the rattle is GONE! hmm?? gotta be heat shield... Bolts come lose there real easy... releasing motion... THEN BAM!!!! GRRR RATTLE RATTLE GRIND... <<<< Noise lol anyway
anyway.. check and see how tight they are... or just take it off and keep an eye on that stuff..
Last edited by Fastmax05; Oct 9, 2007 at 11:54 PM.
A customer of ours in MD races regularly, and he would assure you that the y-pipe makes power on the low end because he has had to re-learn his launch.
Additionally, our dyno test on an '05 Maxima 5A w/ a Cattman catback makes power everywhere. Its making about 6whp at 3000 rpm, which is about the same % increase that's going on at redline - the % of gain is surprisingly constant across the entire tested rpm range - 2500-6000.
I can't state this emphatically enough, the CP 6th gen y-pipe doesn't lose power (relative to the stock part) anywhere on the rpm scale. Whether power has been gained or lost due to the choice of catbacks is irrelevant, the y-pipe makes power everywhere.
Brian
A customer of ours in MD races regularly, and he would assure you that the y-pipe makes power on the low end because he has had to re-learn his launch.
Additionally, our dyno test on an '05 Maxima 5A w/ a Cattman catback makes power everywhere. Its making about 6whp at 3000 rpm, which is about the same % increase that's going on at redline - the % of gain is surprisingly constant across the entire tested rpm range - 2500-6000.
I can't state this emphatically enough, the CP 6th gen y-pipe doesn't lose power (relative to the stock part) anywhere on the rpm scale. Whether power has been gained or lost due to the choice of catbacks is irrelevant, the y-pipe makes power everywhere.
Brian
Additionally, our dyno test on an '05 Maxima 5A w/ a Cattman catback makes power everywhere. Its making about 6whp at 3000 rpm, which is about the same % increase that's going on at redline - the % of gain is surprisingly constant across the entire tested rpm range - 2500-6000.
I can't state this emphatically enough, the CP 6th gen y-pipe doesn't lose power (relative to the stock part) anywhere on the rpm scale. Whether power has been gained or lost due to the choice of catbacks is irrelevant, the y-pipe makes power everywhere.
Brian
A customer of ours in MD races regularly, and he would assure you that the y-pipe makes power on the low end because he has had to re-learn his launch.
Additionally, our dyno test on an '05 Maxima 5A w/ a Cattman catback makes power everywhere. Its making about 6whp at 3000 rpm, which is about the same % increase that's going on at redline - the % of gain is surprisingly constant across the entire tested rpm range - 2500-6000.
I can't state this emphatically enough, the CP 6th gen y-pipe doesn't lose power (relative to the stock part) anywhere on the rpm scale. Whether power has been gained or lost due to the choice of catbacks is irrelevant, the y-pipe makes power everywhere.
Brian
Additionally, our dyno test on an '05 Maxima 5A w/ a Cattman catback makes power everywhere. Its making about 6whp at 3000 rpm, which is about the same % increase that's going on at redline - the % of gain is surprisingly constant across the entire tested rpm range - 2500-6000.
I can't state this emphatically enough, the CP 6th gen y-pipe doesn't lose power (relative to the stock part) anywhere on the rpm scale. Whether power has been gained or lost due to the choice of catbacks is irrelevant, the y-pipe makes power everywhere.
Brian
I can vouch for this, I have both the y-pipe and catback From Cattmam. I had the y-pipe installed yesterday an I finally got to test it out on the road today. I have to say I was quite suprised by the gain in power . I can easily smoke the tires from a stand still and when traveling at around 40 and I hit the accelerator hard the car just jumps and takes off screaming. Brian this mod is another great product from you and I look forward to adding the final piece so get going on those headers.
Question about the up comming headers.
Guestimate on whp/tq?
How many hours of an install are we looking at? Like 5-6?
Guestimate on price of the headers?
Trying to figure out if the performance increase is going to be worth the price...mainly the price for labor....especialy if the headers have to be retorqued again in a few days as Brian was saying....another 5-6 hours just to retorque??
Guestimate on whp/tq?
How many hours of an install are we looking at? Like 5-6?
Guestimate on price of the headers?
Trying to figure out if the performance increase is going to be worth the price...mainly the price for labor....especialy if the headers have to be retorqued again in a few days as Brian was saying....another 5-6 hours just to retorque??
I got my Maxima dyno'd today. 239 whp/221 tq with all my mods. Wish I had done a baseline. The good news is I didn't notice any wooshing while it was being dynod. I am not sure if I need to get mine replaced or not...