New Rotors
New Rotors
What's up ladies and gents,
Well I finally got my RPT rotors, Ultimate pads, SS brake lines, and brake fluid. I got these suckers installed and painted the calipers black on Thursday and I wanted to share the pics with you. Total time to instal, paint calipers, and flush brake fluid took about 9 hours. Took my time and loved the final results. Here are the pics.
Comparison
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Installed rotor, pads, and SS brake line.
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Angel view
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Rear
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Well I finally got my RPT rotors, Ultimate pads, SS brake lines, and brake fluid. I got these suckers installed and painted the calipers black on Thursday and I wanted to share the pics with you. Total time to instal, paint calipers, and flush brake fluid took about 9 hours. Took my time and loved the final results. Here are the pics.
Comparison
[IMG]
[/IMG]Installed rotor, pads, and SS brake line.
[IMG]
[/IMG]Angel view
[IMG]
[/IMG]Rear
[IMG]
[/IMG]
[/IMG]
[/IMG]
was that your first brake job?,,,, usually the first one take a long time.. 
,, anyway the end result is pretty good, I also painted the calipers, but since im lazy, I didnt do a flush, and painted the calipers when they where on the car, (with the old rotors)..
,, anyway the end result is pretty good, I also painted the calipers, but since im lazy, I didnt do a flush, and painted the calipers when they where on the car, (with the old rotors)..
It was my first brake job. I only used my pops help to do the flush.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 819
From: Bay Shore, NY
I just did the same brake job on my car. Used drilled and slotted rotors I bought off ebay and OEM Nissan Pads. Didn't have to bleed the brakes but did have to syringe some fluid out when I was pushing the pistons back into the calipers.
Great combo the car stops so nicely! No more vibration either. OEM rotors sucked.
Great combo the car stops so nicely! No more vibration either. OEM rotors sucked.
Guys, you definitely want to consider ceramic brake pads. They produce less brake dust and offer a smooth quiet braking experience.
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/....jsp?techid=88
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/....jsp?techid=88
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 619
Hey Mack, I am thinking of getting these ones off of ebay that you have. So you like them? No issues with them? How long have you been using these rotors on your car? I am just concerned about getting rotors off of ebay and if they are not good quality, they will probably warp and then I will have to get new rotors all over again. Did you see better performance with these compared to the OEM rotors?
Yep these are the rotors I have. They look great and you can't beat the price. Performance wise I don't notice any difference at all, but then I wasn't expecting any really, lets face it this stuff is for looks. Now that BBK system that Chern just hooked himself up with, I expect that'll show some significant improvement in braking performance.
Its really simple, but you need to be carefull on how you do it. I suggest you buy performance grade brake fluid. I got a bottle of blue brake fluid from
http://www.racetechperformance.com/S...ts.asp?Cat=140
Since this stuff is blue, it is easier to know when you have completely flushed out the old brake fluid. Since you are doing this I also suggest you change your brake lines. Its the perfect time to do it.
If you feel that the following steps are difficult please have a professional do it for you. These are the steps that I used on my car and I have not had any problems, but please be advised that I am not responsible for any injury or accident caused by following these procedures. Do them at your own risk.
First lift the car up and if possible leave it sitting on jack stands on all four sides and remove all four tires.
1. Start with the furthest wheel from the Master Cylinder (rear passenger side). On the caliper you will find a nut with a rubber cap covering it located on the right hand side. Remove the cap and you will see a cone shape nozle that a hose can be attached to. I suggest you buy a bleeder kit from an auto parts store. Its a small bottle with clear tubbing or you can always do it your self by buying clear hose and attaching it to an empty water bottle. Attach one end of the hose to caliper bleeding nozle and the other end to the empty bottle.
2. Get someone to help you on the next steps since the next steps are very important. Open your hood and add the new brake fluid to you brake fluid resevoir. The reservoir is located on the driver side (refer to your car manual ). Carefull not to overflow and place cap back on. Grab a wrench that fits the nut on bleeder nozle. Before you loosen the nut have your helper pump the brake pedal four times and on the fourth have him hold the brake pedal down to the floor. While he holds down the brake pedal loosen the nut and you should start seing brake fluid on the clear hose going into your empty bottle. Once you see that no more fluid is coming out release the brake pedal and close your nozzle. Keep on repeating this step untill you start seeing blue fluid. Once you see blue fluid stop and refill your brake fluid reservoir. Very important that you DO NOT leave the reservoir go empty. Make sure that there is always plenty of brake fluid in there otherwise the Master cylinder will be done and you will be in trouble. While flushing out the brake fluid check your reservoir periodically. Continue to bleed the caliper until you see a dark blue fluid through the clear tube. This will indicate that all of the old fluid is out. Close your nozzle and move on to the next wheel.
3. Now that you have completed one side now its time to go to the next furthest wheel from the Master. Go to rear driver side wheel and repeat the same steps as above.
4. Once done with the rear go to the front passenger side and follow the same procedure and finally finish on the front driver side.
Congratulations. You have now flushed your entire brake system.
5. I suggest that once you are done turn your car on and press the brake pedal. If you find that the pedal is spongy there might be air bubbles trapped in the lines. If so you will need to bleed again. Following that same order as flushing by going to the furthest wheel from the MC. Make sure your car is on while doing this. When bleeding check for air bubbles on the clear tube. Keep on pumping the brake pedal (The same step as mentioned above) until all the air bubbles disapear. Move on to the next wheels.
Your pedal should feel smooth, not hard. I think by now you should know what your brake pedal should feel like. Make sure to fill your reservoir again to its proper level.
Hope this was helpfull. If you need further assistance feel free to PM me.
http://www.racetechperformance.com/S...ts.asp?Cat=140
Since this stuff is blue, it is easier to know when you have completely flushed out the old brake fluid. Since you are doing this I also suggest you change your brake lines. Its the perfect time to do it.
If you feel that the following steps are difficult please have a professional do it for you. These are the steps that I used on my car and I have not had any problems, but please be advised that I am not responsible for any injury or accident caused by following these procedures. Do them at your own risk.
First lift the car up and if possible leave it sitting on jack stands on all four sides and remove all four tires.
1. Start with the furthest wheel from the Master Cylinder (rear passenger side). On the caliper you will find a nut with a rubber cap covering it located on the right hand side. Remove the cap and you will see a cone shape nozle that a hose can be attached to. I suggest you buy a bleeder kit from an auto parts store. Its a small bottle with clear tubbing or you can always do it your self by buying clear hose and attaching it to an empty water bottle. Attach one end of the hose to caliper bleeding nozle and the other end to the empty bottle.
2. Get someone to help you on the next steps since the next steps are very important. Open your hood and add the new brake fluid to you brake fluid resevoir. The reservoir is located on the driver side (refer to your car manual ). Carefull not to overflow and place cap back on. Grab a wrench that fits the nut on bleeder nozle. Before you loosen the nut have your helper pump the brake pedal four times and on the fourth have him hold the brake pedal down to the floor. While he holds down the brake pedal loosen the nut and you should start seing brake fluid on the clear hose going into your empty bottle. Once you see that no more fluid is coming out release the brake pedal and close your nozzle. Keep on repeating this step untill you start seeing blue fluid. Once you see blue fluid stop and refill your brake fluid reservoir. Very important that you DO NOT leave the reservoir go empty. Make sure that there is always plenty of brake fluid in there otherwise the Master cylinder will be done and you will be in trouble. While flushing out the brake fluid check your reservoir periodically. Continue to bleed the caliper until you see a dark blue fluid through the clear tube. This will indicate that all of the old fluid is out. Close your nozzle and move on to the next wheel.
3. Now that you have completed one side now its time to go to the next furthest wheel from the Master. Go to rear driver side wheel and repeat the same steps as above.
4. Once done with the rear go to the front passenger side and follow the same procedure and finally finish on the front driver side.
Congratulations. You have now flushed your entire brake system.
5. I suggest that once you are done turn your car on and press the brake pedal. If you find that the pedal is spongy there might be air bubbles trapped in the lines. If so you will need to bleed again. Following that same order as flushing by going to the furthest wheel from the MC. Make sure your car is on while doing this. When bleeding check for air bubbles on the clear tube. Keep on pumping the brake pedal (The same step as mentioned above) until all the air bubbles disapear. Move on to the next wheels.
Your pedal should feel smooth, not hard. I think by now you should know what your brake pedal should feel like. Make sure to fill your reservoir again to its proper level.
Hope this was helpfull. If you need further assistance feel free to PM me.
Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 46
From: Port Deposit, MD
This should be my next mod. You did exactly what I will do as far as the zinc coated rotor and black painted caliper. I won't tackle the break lines because of a bad experience on another car. I hope to do as nice of a job as you did on your rotors.
maybe I missed it but what was the cost of this upgrade, right after I put tires on Im doing brakes, my passenger side front rotor has some really irregular wear and both inside pads on the passenger side look half as thin as the outside pads, I'd like to bring it to Nissan to see if anything is actually wrong, the car stops fine no pulling but it leaves me wondering
maybe I missed it but what was the cost of this upgrade, right after I put tires on Im doing brakes, my passenger side front rotor has some really irregular wear and both inside pads on the passenger side look half as thin as the outside pads, I'd like to bring it to Nissan to see if anything is actually wrong, the car stops fine no pulling but it leaves me wondering
RPT Rotors (front/rear)
Ultimate brake pads (front/rear)
SS brake lines (front/rear)
Brake fluid.
Yep these are the rotors I have. They look great and you can't beat the price. Performance wise I don't notice any difference at all, but then I wasn't expecting any really, lets face it this stuff is for looks. Now that BBK system that Chern just hooked himself up with, I expect that'll show some significant improvement in braking performance.
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