Kryogen

(Ok, some info before we go)
I live in quebec canada.
Canadian $. Brand new maxima 2007 SL is 43 000$ here.
All 04s regardless of mileage (60-100), fully equipped or not, go for +- 20K here.

Ok, now we start:

Hello, I went to a used auto place, and they had 3 maximas.

1 black 3.5SE, no DPP.... Got in it, everything was fine, hot air, etc.
1 blue 3.5SL with 4 speed auto.....
1 light gray 3.5SL with 5 speed.

So, I got in the 3.5SL 5 speed. Was made 03/2004. (One another post said that most changes had been made at 6/04. Were they in fact made at 3/04? (Cause it's SL and got 5 speed tiptronic). So would it be safe w that one generally speaking?

Ok, started the car. No hot air. Engine was at full working temp. No hot air. When I press the auto button, A/C automatically gets on. Uh? It's 8 celcius outside ?!? Normal???? Why ac? Defog? Anyways, no hot air...

Ok, one xenon bulb was flickering for some reason. I tell the guy and he sais that he will note that and fix. So I try the high beam, no more left light. The left bulb was dead for the rest of the evening. What's wrong? Bulb, ballast, etc?

Ok, so I start the car, slowly accelerate, slow, give it a little bit of gas, BANG, tranny did a HUGE bang. Damn, so I look at the guy and I'm like, tranny is bad. So I accelerate, and at 60 Km/h, I ease on the gas. Instead of shifting in 4th or something, it somehow kept the 3rd for too long, like over revving, and it slowed the car and gave a weird feeling. And then, at the stop, from 3 to 2, it banged again, and then again, etc....

When fully accelerating on a straight line, I can feel the torque steer. It's not horrible like I cannot control the car, but their is torque steer. I think thats normal.

On the highway at 80 km/h (didnt get a chance to go faster, traffic), it's stable and quiet.

Oh yeah, another thing. As soon as I started rolling with the car ir started heating. Like if I'm at a red light, it doesn heat. When I give it massive gas, it heats like crazy. Wtf? Like it just sends hot air when I'm rolling.

So I told him that I would consider buying the car if
1- they get it to nissan (which is next door), and they change the transmission, and he has a proof of that. So basically, I would be buying a 2004 with 80 000km on the engine, and a brand new tranny (and I hope thats the new one so no more trouble I guess).
2- they fix the heater issue. (What could be causing this? any ideas?)
3- they fix the xenon bulb issue.(what could cause this)

So I could get a 2004 maxima (03/2004), SL, fully equipped, VDC, DPP, for 20 500$ CAN, with a BRAND NEW 5 speed transmission (I will not buy it if the dealer does not change the transmission. It's still covered, and they will change it BEFORE I buy it), which seems like a pretty good deal to me. And Im not getting the dealership crap, they are.

I told him to do the repairs, and call me once it's all done. He said he will bring the car to nissan tomorrow morning.

What do you guys think about it?

Thanks.

Monotaur

Well, the tranny problems would trouble me a bit, but if you get them taken care of satisfactorily, then maybe... but you have to wonder why it was so bad to begin with. How else was it abused?

The heater not blowing hot air is a known issue. Basically, the heater core in the car cabin area is higher than the heat exchanger in the engine bay so air can sometimes get trapped in there, so hot air will only come out when you rev the engine and it pumps harder. The dealer can just bleed off the excess air, or some here have been able to fix it by parking on an incline and revving the engine a bit... but bleeding seems best. This is also something I'd have the car dealer fix, if you are still interested in the car.

As far as the HID bulb, I don't know. I'd guess balast, since when HID bulbs die they are supposed to kind of turn brownish, and not flicker like that (the flickering to me would indicate a bad balast). It's just interesting that it died when you flicked the high beams (this is just a shutter opening higher - it's still the same bulb). Have them fix it.

Also, to me, $20K seems a bit high for a 2004 and some bad tranny problems.

Good luck though, with whatever you decide.

xoomer.com

iTrader: (19)

expensive if you ask me.

Longhorn101

My 2 cents would be to trust your gut. From the info you provided I am kind of wary of a car with those issues at only 80km (<50k miles). The most serious is a possible transmission issue at that low of mileage which theoritically would be covered under the drivetrain warranty, but not sure why prior owner wouldn't get it fixed. Other issues are lesser problems but may indicate how the car was cared for. But in the end you have the best perspective there driving and seeing the cars.

I wouldn't write off the 04SL 4spd, especially if it is a good deal. Some people on here will tell you not to get the 4 spd but I have one and am very pleased with it. Only downside is no tiptronic shifting and theoritically 1 mpg lower fuel economy on the highway. Personally I don't think most people would see real life difference in mileage unless they are >75% highway driving.

Good luck.

NismoMax80

iTrader: (6)

look elsewhere.

and the AC works year round for a reason, to eliminate moisture in the heat. turn AC off and windows will fog.

Kryogen

Well, it's 20 000$ canadian. The BEST ive seen on ads around here in quebec is 18 000$, but not fully equipped, etc.

Why look elsewhere?
I will consider it ONLY if the dealer changes the transmission under warranty (hes going there tomorrow,and he will call me back once hes got news).

So basically, im only buying it IF theres a BRAND NEWtranny under warranty in it, ONCE the repair is done, with proofs. Not with the screwed one, of course.

More opinions ?

xoomer.com

iTrader: (19)

Dude how much is a new maxie in Canada. 30-33?

You are buying a 4 year old car that is out of warranty. If I was in your position with 20K to spend I would have put that down on a new one and finance the rest. By the time the car is 4 years old you would have paid off the little loan you would take on a car that is going to be only 3-4 years old. You'd get a new car and you will know when things go wrong, when the oild was changed, when the tranny was flushed, etc, etc.

Now, if you have gotten a steal then its a whole different story but its seems to me that you are hardly getting a deal and are far away from a steal.

Kryogen

I wont have money until june. (finishing 5th year dental medecine). (still a student). This on going on credit till june.

I cant afford a brand new maxima.
2007 3.5SL is 42 823$ with transport&prep here.

So a 4 years old w 80 000km, and a brand new tranny, for 20K, is kinda good imo.

All the cars in the ads around and on the net are 20K. (and they wont have a brand new tranny, or they arent fully equipped).

Why are you all telling me that a 04 with a new tranny for half the price of a new, and with a price like all the others around (but fully equip, w new tranny) is bad ?

I cannot afford a 42 000$ car. I'm a 23 years old student.

xoomer.com

iTrader: (19)

Don't know dude, look around, how many dealers have you visited? How many maxies did you test drive. Someting tells me that you are already fixed on this one car and the guy who is selling it to you can smell the blood in the air.

Your call, really.

NismoMax80

iTrader: (6)

must be a CAN thing. I got mine loaded new for $29k.
I guess with a new tranny it's a good deal.

Stevied23

If you can see obvious problems with the car from a simple test drive, there are probably many more you won't seen until you buy the car, at which time you will be screwed. Be patient and look around, you will find another one.

RHMax

Keep looking.

jimmypronet

Look around.... i got mine for 17500 fully loaded and has 63000 miles on it

Kryogen

Jesus, guys, I live in quebec canada. Car has 50 000 miles.

You paid 17 500$ US for a car that was selling for 31 000$ US.

I pay 20 000$ CAN for a car that was selling 43 000$ CAN.

Why look elsewhere if I get a brand new tranny in it, and everything else is fixed?


I've looked at prices all around, (ads, car sellers) and this is the best price/equipment/miles I can find. It's a big car selling business that has 5-6 shops in quebec. They give you a 1 month or 1500km warranty, and they will replace everything thats bad before I buy the car, after I get it to inspection.

I could get one from a guy for 18 000$, but it's got 90 000km on the tranny,and it wont be new...

lobewiper

You're going to be a dental professional in the near future. You will be able to afford anything you want. In the meantime, the 04 Max is a great car. I have the 04 w 4-speed and love it. So, buy the one with the new transmission and enjoy it!

VigilanteMax

iTrader: (4)

Im not quite sure what you want us to say here. if you want me to agree that this is a good deal, then i will...I Know prices are different in different regions, ie Atlanta where the market is huge compared with Quebec, where it is probably smaller. The bottom line is to be patient and dont spend too quickly, especially still in school. i was in the same position (veterinarian) and I drove a 90 accord with 225K on it. The injectors were leaking and fuel smell was in the cabin (no I dont smoke). 2 months as a professional and I bought the max (2005 SE loaded for $27,300 new...yes, quite a deal). My opinion is to wait until you have money and dont put it on credit until your bringing home the bacon... If this comment doesnt sit well, get the damn car and be done with it.

digitalfish

I got to agree to look around more. If you see all these problems now there are tons more hiding in there. Even if you pay a little more for the next one theres a reason why

Kryogen

My point is that I don't see why there would be a ton of problems more in this car than in any other max.

Its going to the dealership tomorrow, and they will take care of all those issues. Once it's all fixed, I'll have it inspected by an independant garage (can the dealership do that?)

Once they tell me it's all fine, I might buy it, if the tranny is new.

Aint that a reasonable way to think? I mean, what could be that wrong if I get it inspected, and tranny is new?

(Oh yeah, and I drive a 1992 toyota tercel, all rusted and stuff, with 200 000km). But it doesn't feel safe anymore, frame brackets are really weak and stuff.... last time I drove a long way, the stab bar of the rear axle broke cause of rust. Replaced it, but the brackets really dont look any better, so eh.... I feel an urge to change the car, and sell it while it's still worth something.

NismoMax80

iTrader: (6)

may still have a shimmy. just test drive it regardless.

Kryogen

What exactly is "a shimmy"? I test drove it, and it handled fine, as I saw (if I set aside the dead tranny).

When flooring the pedal, yes there was torque steer, but thats normal... What do you call a shimmy?

VigilanteMax

iTrader: (4)

Go about 40-55 MPH on a straight course, then easily let go of the wheel and see if you see a shimmy, ie back and forth movement of the wheel. Tell the nissan dealer and see if the steering rack fraction needs to be tightened. Also check the tires.

Kryogen

I was going 80km/h (50 mph) yesterday and it was all fine and there was no steering wheel movement. Didnt remove my hands though.

I'll test drive it again once they have changed the tranny and fixed all the problems, prolly in a week or more, until nissan orders the tranny and stuff.

I'll tell you once I test drive it again.

lobewiper

If you still have reservations, have them throw in an extended warranty at a great price. Just DO it.

orlan85

If that's the best thing you can find then go for it. It seems like you are asking for people to approve the purchase for you. Like everyone else has been saying, if at 80,000km / 50,000 miles it needs a new tranny then that most likely means that the previous owner beat the living **** out of that car. Think about other parts of the car, pistons, cams, all the seals, etc, etc, etc. If the tranny is bad, its only a matter of time before something else goes. Although it is always a risk buying a used car because you never know what is going to break and when; this one is telling you that its all down hill from this point on . . . the head light, the hot air, the tranny. Over time the list will get longer. But as I said before it seems that you are seaking approval for the purchase. Ultimately, if you want it go get it. If you don't then go look at another car or just wait till you graduate. Your the one who has to drive it, not us.

Kryogen

I agree with that point. What makes me think is that alot of people here are having tranny issues at this mileage, and did not necessarely beat the crap out of the car, so thats why I wonder if it's just a tranny issue and whatever.

lightonthehill

Some folks here may not be fully aware the $20K you are considering paying probably translates to less than $15K US, which is not a ton of money, especially for an SL with driver preferred package. That car had an MSRP over $30K U.S. when new, and near $40K Canadian.

As longhorn said above, for your purpose, the one with 4 speed auto tranny also might work fine. I've driven over a million miles in cars with 4 speed auto trannies. The '04 SLs with 4 speed auto were made between late Jan 2003 and Feb 6, 2004. But the car you are looking at hardest is a 5 speed SL made in March 2004. Most initial 6th gen problems had been 'engineered out' by then.

I will say that new base '07 SEs have been advertised by many Atlanta Nissan dealers for $21,700 U.S. since the '08s arrived several months ago. But that would still be around $30K Canadian for a stripped car.

To test for shimmy, get on a road where you can go to at least 100KPH, place the fingertips of your hands at the 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock positions, and accellerate slowly from around 40KPH to 100KPH. If the car has the shimmy, there will be a point or range at which you can feel (and see) the steering wheel start to vibrate from side-to-side. A little is OK, but some Maximas vibrate a lot, and that is not good.

At four years and 80K kilometers, the 5 year 60K miles power train warranty should still be in effect. I would make the dealer give me a written statement that Nissan's basic power train warranty is still valid on this car until four years from the initial sell date (probably summer 2004) or the kilometer equivalent of 60K miles. I would then have the Nissan dealer confirm the warranty is still valid. When it comes to engines and trannies, we don't want any of that 'as is' stuff.

Being in Canada, you should check under the car very carefully for rust. You should also make sure the car has a current inspection sticker. If I were buying a used car I would probably pay a local inspection shop $20 or $30 to check things out, even if it already had a valid sticker. You don't want to be buying a catalytic converter ($300 or more?) the first year of ownership.

When all is said and done, you are going to have to make a tough decision. Then, for better or worse, live with it for a few years. Best of luck.

Monotaur

I'd like to echo what lightonthehill said, except for the price comparisons. Just as an FYI, the US dollar is at a 50 year low against the Canadian dollar, so right now the US dollar is actually worth about 95 Canadian cents. So that means the $20.5K Canadian that you are looking at is actually about $21.5K US (which is what brand new 07's are being sold for in Atlanta), as odd as that sounds. So just keep that in mind when you compare prices across the US/Canada border.

jman7777

THANK YOU! The OP has to realize we were making those "wow that's expensive" comments because the CAD and USD are ALMOST worth the same. 1 CAD = 1.05 USD. So I think you should look around for a better priced car. If prices for used cars are generally more expensive in Montreal, hop over to Vermont and buy a used car and drive it back.

Divewjason

I have mixed thoughts on this car.

It's great that you will be able to get a new tranny put in. If they can fix everything then it's fine. I would keep looking just in case though. I just hope that there isn't more wrong with the car then that. You will probably have trouble getting the price down after they change that tranny, they may even raise the price on you.

Here are a few things to remember:

DO NOT hand him the check until he hands you the keys. If you hand them the check, they will already have your money and will be less cooperative.

When you haggle, change the subject a lot, jerk the salesman around a bit then keep going back to the price after every subject.

If he says he isn't making a lot of money off the sale, he's lying.

Stay skeptical, give the impression that you still aren't sure. Point out that there may be other things wrong with the car if the tranny was bad so early.

Start low, don't start from the sticker price. Offer 16500. Be stubborn. Don't just go up when he offers a price, try to stay down there.

Don't even talk about prices until the car is fixed. Once it's fixed it's a different ball game.

Those are some tips for you. My dealership wanted to give me the max for 8500. I walked out with it for 3900.(4885.50 with taxes.) I offered 3000 for the car and they only could go up 900 on me. Turns out they owned the car for 3900. They only made money off of the taxes lol.



I still think that you can get it for a little lower because you have grounds for getting it cheaper.

Good luck and let us know what happens.

VigilanteMax

iTrader: (4)

Shimmy does not equal vibration...huge difference.

Kryogen

Yeah, even if can $ is = to US$, we dont have prices that you guys have.

On new cars, some are a bit cheaper now, but really, still too expensive, thats dumb. Even if the can $ is almost equal to US$.

I'll check if I could buy one in vermont, and how much though.

Whats a good site to check for used cars for sale in vermont or around there?

NismoMax80

iTrader: (6)

have you bothered looking in the Canadian forum at all? just a thought.

and I'm so confused with the CAN vs USD. i think it's just to ego boost the canucks. my friend at a bank said according to the # she sees, it's not true.
oh well, not like i shop up there anyway.

Kryogen

Omg, most retarded comment ever. Whatever.

NismoMax80

iTrader: (6)

r u serious?

z00york145

hmm sounds pricey, but use common sense, it's your money

Kryogen

There is no inspection on cars here. No sticker, no whatever.

If I want an inspection, I need to pay a garage. Nissn asks 200$, jeez. Worth paying 200$ to have nissan look at it, or just pay 50$ to a garage?

I'll wait until I get news from the place once it's fixed, and I'll bargain with the guy.

They ask 20 500$, but thats too much imo. I've seen them at around 18 000$ in newspaper ads. Plus, if you buy from someone, you only pay 7.5% tax. If you buy from a shop, you pay 13.5% tax, so thats 1200$ more.

If I can bargain it for 18 500$ with the new tranny, that could be a nice deal though. I'll see when I get there if the guy wants to bargain.

If not, I'll wait until april I guess, and go try alot of used maximas that are in the ads.

Monotaur

Actually, after interest rates were cut again the US dollar fell even further... the IMF has even said that the US dollar is over valued. Anyway, not to get too far off topic here, but here is the link to the Bank of Canada's web site showing the current rate:

http://www.bankofcanada.ca/en/rates/exchange.html

The US dollar is now worth $0.9447 (Canadian), getting close to half of what it was worth 5 years ago... all thanks to our fiat money system and rampant government growth and spending (ie, printing billions of dollars thus devaluing currency already in circulation). I don't often get political or anything, but I really wish victory for Ron Paul... if you don't know who he is, you should google him. </rant>

NismoMax80

iTrader: (6)

now that makes perfect sense to me. I've been saying that for years, especially how we print ridiculous amounts of money yet owe China and others so much. regardless, it aint gonna look good soon enough....

Kryogen

There is no inspection on cars here. No sticker, no whatever.

If I want an inspection, I need to pay a garage. Nissn asks 200$, jeez. Worth paying 200$ to have nissan look at it, or just pay 50$ to a garage?

Monotaur

Good question. If you have an honest dealership or know the mechanic, the $150 premium might be worth it since they will have undoubtedly seen more 6th gen Maximas and will know what the common trouble spots would be, whereas the average garage might overlook them. But, that's probably only if you have a good relationship with the dealers service department.

Also, how did looking into buying one in the US (if possible) go?