Josh, you would need this. See, another caviot with the UTEC is you'll need to get add-on's for it to suit your needs. i.e. knocklights, tuner sensors, etc..

UTEC Remote Map Selector Switch (UTEC-Switch) - Price: $79.00
This Remote Map Switch allows you to switch between 5 programmed UTEC maps on the fly

 

Mack,

Dude, awesome. This post is awesome, and I approve of it. That is exactly I what I need. And, I have to tell you, you need to get nitrous as well.

Thanks man.

Joshua

 

The reason I'm willing to spend the money is that its worthwhile with nitrous - safety is key.

Joshua

 

this is great info for the altima guys as well...

 

Or Murano and FX35 too?

 

Depends on the year I would imagine.

 

There is an06 altima running a UTEC. his screen name is JayAre on nissanclub.com. He never posted detailed results after he got tuned thought IIRC.

 

guys over there are very closed lipped. seems like you have to beat info out of them...

 

He was the pioneer for a non-z33, I talked with him and TurboXS directly. Talk about a man dedicated to his car, he's replaced more things than I can name...until his tranny blew up. Never did find out the results of that.

 

I'd like to hear your personal testimonial Nietzsche. How much did Utec help your car out? I imagine a lot as you seem to be 100% behind it. I've done a lot of research on this myself and I am looking into getting one in the spring when I have my nitrous kit installed. I'm wondering if you know of anyone from the Northeast that can tune this (I believe there is a shop in New Jersey??)

Joshua

 

I'd buy one, how much more testimony do you need. I've also consulted multiple people on a purchase, I'd tell you to buy one too.

TurboXS is in MD, MRC is in NJ, only two I'm aware of, but I don't live on the east coast.

 

Cant it be tuned by us instead of a shop or is that the best way to achieve results?

 

If the place has a dyno, relevant tuning experience, and you don't feel like taking the time to research NA tuning, then yes, go with a reputable shop.

If you want to take the time and research the topic you rself, then find a shop with a dyno, and tune there.

Another option is street tuning. Basically, you perform some street runs (referred to as street tuning), then you log those runs, and 'tuning' with respect to what feels and 'seems' good. By that I mean going with working your way up to some decently aggressive timing curves and see which is the most aggressive you can go before knock.

Then see what AFR gives the best results. In the end, you would want all 'street runs' to be performed in the same ambient conditions as each other.

This is why a dyno, IMO, is best. Although a few street runs and a rough street tune is best prior to going to a dnyo, so that 'basic' step is taken care of, and it might save you some time/$$ on a dyno session.

You can do a few runs and log the parameters. After that, you can see which 'map' gives the best results.

I will strongly emphasize that in order to tune your own vehicle, you pretty much should know it VERY well. Intimate hours with an FSM should be mandatory. But, if you don't trust yourself, are second questioning yourself, there's a reason (i.e. not educated enough) take it to a shop for the safest results.


Nietzsche has spent many hours and posted many threads about the UTEC. For those who have advanced search capability, I would search his name as a thread starter and see what comes up. I know right off hand that there are at least 3 relevant threads on it.

 

Nietzsche and I are in touch. Isnt it true though that the dyno doesnt necessarily show best power since the car isnt actually moving, but the movement is merely simulated on the dyno wheels?

 

Mustang Dynos are best for 'tuning' since they simulate load. BUT, they need to be meticulously set-up in favor of YOUR car. Coefficient of drag, weight, etc.

If the machine is not set-up properly, it is very difficult to compare or to even 'tune' correctly.

Typically Mustang dyno shops have already preset models that allow them to plug in your vehicle data, but, the A34 isn't really much of a tuners car, nor is the L32 (Previous gen Altima), so in regards to that, unless you get some good measurements off of your car, it would be difficult to get a useful tune on one.

In the case of the Dynojet, you can get some decent tuning done on one. That is what I use. I've found that if I street tune(under load) (only AFR) fairly aggressively before I go, I find that I usually put down better #'s than if I tune conservatively. I have seen different AFR's for different gear ratios, BUT, these are seen both on the DJ and on the street (no significant difference between them) I think that a DJ is still a viable option to 'tune'. You don't need to set up your car, you have friendly CF for comparing different runs etc.

 

L31

 

I agree with Nmex, but still say road tuning is the best for everyday driving. You can't simulate aggressive road driving on a dyno and monitoring and tuning accordingly is the way I feel gives you the most reliable and power friendly tune.

 

You're right, I think I've been spending too much time in that FSM.

I still want the L31 FD; 90$ from DAVEB.

 

This thread, link, sounds like UTEC has no MAF based tuning to account for elevation or atmospheric changes for different altitude or weather. Is this true?

 

I've driven 10k with a UTEC and had no issues. If it's 100 degrees the cars slower than if it's 50 degrees, but that's not the UTEC's fault.

I don't drive up and down mountains so I can't say for the elevation.

There is a basic temp compensation feature that can adjust the timing/fuel. Other than that I would think the ECU adjusts for most conditions from the base tables. I run open loop and have NEVER had the adjustments tuned out because it runs on turboXS's own base tables.

 

That's why you get a wideband or read your stock units to compensate for altitude.

 

The UTEC rocks even though I had to hardwire it. I have never had consistent 1/4 times with anything else including the E-Manage Ultimate. My last trip to the track when I got hurt netted 4 timeslips all within .026 of each other. If I can keep that up I should win every race next year.

The only problem is with the UTEC software. There are 2 programs that now integrate virtually any wideband with the UTEC and both are cheap and perform wonders in comparison. Tuning is a snap.

http://mpsav.com/MPSUTECLogger/MPS_U...r_Download.htm

http://www.jeffsoftware.com/software.php?product=UTI

 

What is the problem with the software?

 

It runs off of windows terminal which is similar to DOS, no GUI interface and it doesn't allow any other WB than TurboXS. Both of the programs listed above will work with various WB's and have a multitude of enhancements including autotune which make them much superior to the UTEC software. I really dislike being forced to buy propiatary hardware that is much more expensive and probably not as accurate and WB's like the LC1 etc.

Most guys choose to use an aftermarket WB because the stock WB's aren't considered much more accurate than the narrowbands they replaced.

 

Like Jime said, the software acts as a new GUI (user interface) which is more spiffy than the software that comes with it. Well worth it.

Joshua

 

Glad it worked so well for you Jim, I took along look at a EMU before deciding on the UTEC. I made the right decision, although the plug and play added convenience for me.

 

While I agree it is not the prettiest software it is very functional. I have UTI but only use it when monitoring knock because it lights up red. I should have popped on the knock sensor for the UTEC in retrospect.

As for the stock WB, I have great luck with them. The are always give me good readings and they only really become inaccurate at high AFR's, places I stay out of anyway. If you're running a 05 or 06 I would say you are fine using them, plus I like having a reading for both exhaust banks.

 

How do you tune it on the fly? Is it seat of the pants or do you look for certain readings such as AFR, etc? I assume you use a laptop for that?

 

Laptop+Highway+Third=My Tune

Since you have a manual I would probably be in fourth, but I'd have to see where the rpms are in relation to speed. I hit just over 100 in third and start down in the 30's.

Once you pull the trigger hit me up and I'll help you set it up.

 

OK, Nietsche, you got it. Just saving up for it.

 

Don't forget to buy cipher or get an aftermarket WB.

 

cipher?

 

Software made by Uprev, it will pull data from your ECU. AFR, IAT, IPW, etc...

 

Nietzsche,

Do you need to turn off your car when switching remotely between maps? For instance, if I wanted nitrous on the fly, I would have to turn off the car, switch maps (using the remote map switching device) and turn the car back on (with timing retarded and such)?

Joshua

 

UTI and UTEC Logger both monitor and log virtually everything, they will even auto log pulls, give audible alarms etc. The autotune function is their best feature, you just tell it what a/f you are shooting for and it will not only tell you the difference between what you are getting and what you are shooting for but it will even merge with your map to modify it automatically. I am still not sure which I like best because they are both being updated with new features on a regular basis and the $30 price is great.

The stock widebands are ok N/A because that is what they are designed for but they are innacurate both high and low so don't use them for any kind of boost ie turbo/sc/nitrous.

philoforlife it just has to be below 1600 rpm to switch. Plus the switch is in one of the nissan blanks so it can be put into one of the blanks on the dash that is not used or in the console if you don't have heated seats.

PS If you want one of these cheap check the 350z board, I got mine for $500 with switch and map sensor.

 

How does UPREV software work with UTEC?

 

They don't work with each other I don't think. Cipher is just a data logger/monitor.

 

You're right. Two different "programs" - Uprev making both Osiris and Cipher. Cipher does work with both Osiris and Utec - its just logging software.

Joshua

 

Yup, it's fantastic though (Cipher)

 

Jim hit this already, you just have to be below 1600 RPM, you can either use the map switch or turn the **** on the UTEC. The switch is infinitely more convenient though.