How to get 20-30 HP
12-05-2007, 07:00 AM
#1
How to get 20-30 HP
I was just looking to get just alittle more power for her, 04 SE. I realy dont to do a cat-back noise reasons, would a kn drop in and a y pipe do it, or possaible just a rear section exhaust so I keep the resonator? Thank you in advance for any help.
12-05-2007, 07:03 AM
#2
I already told you, headers are the door to power. y-pipes/catbacks/mufflers don add as much to these cars as the headers do alone. They're great, especially if you don't want the sound.
Dive into ECU tuning after you've learned how to do it and what it entails.
Or, go turbo like chernmax.
12-05-2007, 07:13 AM
#3
Jesus, 20-30 hp from a K&N
lol I was not trying to get it from just a KN, LOL but that plus the y-pipe ETC. Thas would be the best air filter ever. What kinda power gains is from the headers? And Turbo is out 4k I can't do that now. The ECU tuning is tuff casue the car is our DD and no place local to me does this. Besides I think I'm gonna wait for AAM to came out with theirs this spring.
lol I was not trying to get it from just a KN, LOL but that plus the y-pipe ETC. Thas would be the best air filter ever. What kinda power gains is from the headers? And Turbo is out 4k I can't do that now. The ECU tuning is tuff casue the car is our DD and no place local to me does this. Besides I think I'm gonna wait for AAM to came out with theirs this spring.
12-05-2007, 08:07 AM
#5
Did not say I did not wan to spend 1k or so but just not 4k. I would spend Maybe just 1 k on parts, Just looking the best way, coming from the FI would I know a NA
engine is completly different.
engine is completly different.
12-05-2007, 08:55 AM
#7
Headers, Phelonic Spacers, and a Tune with Piggyback
12-05-2007, 10:14 AM
#10
12-05-2007, 10:26 AM
#11
I believe you can get 20-30 hp with y pipe, cat back, UDP, intake and Kinetix intake manifold, ECU reflash. You can free up some horsepower with weight reduction from lighter rims, and other weight reducing remedies.
12-05-2007, 10:49 AM
#12
WOW if I need all that for 20-30hp forget it the most I'm spending is 1k I will probally look at headers and spacer and thats it. No way am I spending 3000$ for 3 hp hell spend another 1500 and get 360hp or so Tubo kit.
12-05-2007, 12:38 PM
#13
What Do some of you think about my spring plan, since my goal is to add 20-30 as well:
Cattman headers, Y pipe, Fujita, Magnaflows, Phelonic spacers, Racingline MMI.......???????
^^^should get at least 20 I presume??
Cattman headers, Y pipe, Fujita, Magnaflows, Phelonic spacers, Racingline MMI.......???????
^^^should get at least 20 I presume??
12-05-2007, 12:50 PM
#15
based off the dynos ive seen for all those products you should get well over 20... the headers/ypipe/magnaflows are damn near 30+hp 45+ torque spacers ive herd around around 12/20 so ya... you should be putting an extra 30+ hp/tq to the wheels with those mods, and if you dont I regret buying a maxima.
12-05-2007, 01:05 PM
#17
God I hope so you will spend a good chunck of change.
12-05-2007, 06:42 PM
#18
based off the dynos ive seen for all those products you should get well over 20... the headers/ypipe/magnaflows are damn near 30+hp 45+ torque spacers ive herd around around 12/20 so ya... you should be putting an extra 30+ hp/tq to the wheels with those mods, and if you dont I regret buying a maxima.
12-05-2007, 09:45 PM
#22
) but for the price of an UDP, and the possibilities of having oil leaks, squeaks, and/or other problems that I have heard about...it just doesn't seem like too much of a good mod unless you are spooling........
Maybe I just don't know what I am talking about, but I have seen more "negative" feedback than positive on UDP's.
I was scrollin' through and was about to post the same thing! I remember thinking close to that a while ago 
______
You can not just add each mods "gains" together because not all of them give the power that they do in the "same" areas throughout the power-band.
Last edited by !PrjctMax!; 12-05-2007 at 09:49 PM.
Even the almighty NmexMAX?! lol jk
12-06-2007, 05:03 AM
#28
Nations 1st 6th Gen Turbo
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Displaced New Yorker in Southern, MD
Posts: 10,202
Chris and Mark, I love you guys (in a non-gay way ) but for the price of an UDP, and the possibilities of having oil leaks, squeaks, and/or other problems that I have heard about...it just doesn't seem like too much of a good mod unless you are spooling........
Maybe I just don't know what I am talking about, but I have seen more "negative" feedback than positive on UDP's.
) but for the price of an UDP, and the possibilities of having oil leaks, squeaks, and/or other problems that I have heard about...it just doesn't seem like too much of a good mod unless you are spooling........Maybe I just don't know what I am talking about, but I have seen more "negative" feedback than positive on UDP's.
IMO that is just crazy, I know members including myself who have had one for 3+ years and never heard of oil leak, squeaks (maybe if not using the Gates Belts)or other problems, especially on a max. You want to fasten up a NA Max, a lightweight racing pulley is a must!!!
On an educational note:
Pulleys, the "unsung heroes" of the auto world, cost little and do a lot
If you're a regular reader of mine (and if you aren't, you should be!), you know that I'm really big on engine efficiency. You know that the sound of a high-revving, free-breathing engine is like Jessica Simpson to my ears. Well, now that you've followed my insightful advice and replaced your stock intake and exhaust headers, it's time to take a look at some more bolt-on engine enhancers. This time, we'll take a look at a personal fave of mine: underdrive pulleys.Yes, pulleys. A completely different type of spinner, they're the unsung heroes of the internal combustion world. Yeah, I know ? pistons and valves get all the glory, but without pulleys, a lot of really important stuff wouldn't get done. The alternator, power steering pump, water pump, oil pump, cooling fan, and air conditioning compressor all rely on the humble underdrive pulley to do their work. Let's take a closer look at what actually goes down on the pulley end of the engine and learn how to make it more efficient.
The underdrive pulley rides on the crankshaft and turns with it on piston power. A serpentine belt rides on a groove cut into the pulley, and that belt loops around smaller pulleys attached to the other engine components I just mentioned, forcing them to turn as the underdrive pulley turns. In essence, we've just added a whole lot of extra load on the crankshaft; not only does it have to turn the wheels, but it also has to recharge the battery, cool the engine, and so forth. And that IS a big load!
So, what can we do to lighten the crank's job? Replace the pulley, of course! Like most stock engine parts, the pulley is engineered to: a) cost as little as possible, and b) work reliably for 100,000 miles.
Performance is secondary to economy and reliability. For this reason, most pulleys are made of cast iron-just like Grandma's old cast iron skillet. Cast iron might have been cutting-edge technology back when Stonehenge was being built, but for a ride worthy of Kid Turbo's praise, a good, modern pulley should be made of lightweight aluminum.
Think of Grandma's skillet for a sec. It makes great fried chicken, but if you've ever tried to lift it, you know that it weighs a freakin' ton. I'll bet that if you cook fried chicken (Yup, you can actually make fried chicken yourself, without the involvement of anyone from Kentucky), you'd probably fry it in an aluminum skillet. It works just as well, but it weighs about one tenth of what Grandma's skillet weighs.
A performance pulley is milled from lightweight billet aluminum and weighs a fraction of what the stock pulley weighs. Less weight means less force is necessary to turn the pulley. Moreover, its width and groove pattern are designed to maximize efficiency without creating extra friction on the belt. A lightweight pulley will allow your engine to reach high RPMs sooner, helping your engine climb smoothly into its powerband. You can expect about 6 to 10 additional horsepower and 7 to 12 more foot-pounds of torque after installation. Still not convinced? Well, I've got one more reason to upgrade up my sleeve: aluminum pulleys look way cool! Most are shiny silver, like the B & D series pulley from SRD, but some brands like the authority in pulleys, Unorthodox Racing, and AEM offer anodized pulleys to match whatever other under-the-hood bling you may have on your ride.
As for installing the bugger, it's pretty easy, but you'll need a good torque wrench and access to the bottom of your engine. PLEASE don't just jack up your car and slide under there-I want you to be alive to read my next article. If you don't have a set of reliable jack stands, I'd recommend having it installed by someone who does.
Now comes the fun part. If you drive a Nissan, I'd recommend checking out pulleys from Southwest Autoworks. Those guys fantasize about Nissans when they touch themselves ? no one knows Nissan performance better. If you drive a Honda, check out the super-cool billet pulleys from Superior Racing Development. If you drive anything else, I'd recommend pulleys from AEM and Unorthodox Racing. You can find underdrive crankshaft pulley kits from all these brands (and others) right here in the SCO Store. If you need help choosing a pulley, just give the sales folks a call and tell them that you're ready to fry your chicken in an aluminum pan. They'll understand. Trust me.
Cliffnotes: Pulleys create horsepower at the wheels by lightening the load on the driveshaft, and are straightforward to install, relatively cheap, and make a noticeable difference.
12-06-2007, 05:23 AM
#29
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Florida
Posts: 607
Chern, that was very informative. Thanks for a great write up.
I guess, all auto manufacturers like Nissan, Honda, etc. know about all the things you have mentioned. Then, why do they still continue to use grandma's iron skillet instead of an aluminium one even though, as you said, both fry chicken as well but the aluminium has many more benefits, especially that it is not much costly?
I guess, all auto manufacturers like Nissan, Honda, etc. know about all the things you have mentioned. Then, why do they still continue to use grandma's iron skillet instead of an aluminium one even though, as you said, both fry chicken as well but the aluminium has many more benefits, especially that it is not much costly?
12-06-2007, 05:51 AM
#30
IMO that is just crazy, I know members including myself who have had one for 3+ years and never heard of oil leak, squeaks (maybe if not using the Gates Belts)or other problems, especially on a max. You want to fasten up a NA Max, a lightweight racing pulley is a must!!!
On an educational note:
Pulleys, the "unsung heroes" of the auto world, cost little and do a lot
If you're a regular reader of mine (and if you aren't, you should be!), you know that I'm really big on engine efficiency. You know that the sound of a high-revving, free-breathing engine is like Jessica Simpson to my ears. Well, now that you've followed my insightful advice and replaced your stock intake and exhaust headers, it's time to take a look at some more bolt-on engine enhancers. This time, we'll take a look at a personal fave of mine: underdrive pulleys.
Yes, pulleys. A completely different type of spinner, they're the unsung heroes of the internal combustion world. Yeah, I know ? pistons and valves get all the glory, but without pulleys, a lot of really important stuff wouldn't get done. The alternator, power steering pump, water pump, oil pump, cooling fan, and air conditioning compressor all rely on the humble underdrive pulley to do their work. Let's take a closer look at what actually goes down on the pulley end of the engine and learn how to make it more efficient.
The underdrive pulley rides on the crankshaft and turns with it on piston power. A serpentine belt rides on a groove cut into the pulley, and that belt loops around smaller pulleys attached to the other engine components I just mentioned, forcing them to turn as the underdrive pulley turns. In essence, we've just added a whole lot of extra load on the crankshaft; not only does it have to turn the wheels, but it also has to recharge the battery, cool the engine, and so forth. And that IS a big load!
So, what can we do to lighten the crank's job? Replace the pulley, of course! Like most stock engine parts, the pulley is engineered to: a) cost as little as possible, and b) work reliably for 100,000 miles.
Performance is secondary to economy and reliability. For this reason, most pulleys are made of cast iron-just like Grandma's old cast iron skillet. Cast iron might have been cutting-edge technology back when Stonehenge was being built, but for a ride worthy of Kid Turbo's praise, a good, modern pulley should be made of lightweight aluminum.
Think of Grandma's skillet for a sec. It makes great fried chicken, but if you've ever tried to lift it, you know that it weighs a freakin' ton. I'll bet that if you cook fried chicken (Yup, you can actually make fried chicken yourself, without the involvement of anyone from Kentucky), you'd probably fry it in an aluminum skillet. It works just as well, but it weighs about one tenth of what Grandma's skillet weighs.
A performance pulley is milled from lightweight billet aluminum and weighs a fraction of what the stock pulley weighs. Less weight means less force is necessary to turn the pulley. Moreover, its width and groove pattern are designed to maximize efficiency without creating extra friction on the belt. A lightweight pulley will allow your engine to reach high RPMs sooner, helping your engine climb smoothly into its powerband. You can expect about 6 to 10 additional horsepower and 7 to 12 more foot-pounds of torque after installation. Still not convinced? Well, I've got one more reason to upgrade up my sleeve: aluminum pulleys look way cool! Most are shiny silver, like the B & D series pulley from SRD, but some brands like the authority in pulleys, Unorthodox Racing, and AEM offer anodized pulleys to match whatever other under-the-hood bling you may have on your ride.
As for installing the bugger, it's pretty easy, but you'll need a good torque wrench and access to the bottom of your engine. PLEASE don't just jack up your car and slide under there-I want you to be alive to read my next article. If you don't have a set of reliable jack stands, I'd recommend having it installed by someone who does.
Now comes the fun part. If you drive a Nissan, I'd recommend checking out pulleys from Southwest Autoworks. Those guys fantasize about Nissans when they touch themselves ? no one knows Nissan performance better. If you drive a Honda, check out the super-cool billet pulleys from Superior Racing Development. If you drive anything else, I'd recommend pulleys from AEM and Unorthodox Racing. You can find underdrive crankshaft pulley kits from all these brands (and others) right here in the SCO Store. If you need help choosing a pulley, just give the sales folks a call and tell them that you're ready to fry your chicken in an aluminum pan. They'll understand. Trust me.
Cliffnotes: Pulleys create horsepower at the wheels by lightening the load on the driveshaft, and are straightforward to install, relatively cheap, and make a noticeable difference.
On an educational note:
Pulleys, the "unsung heroes" of the auto world, cost little and do a lot
If you're a regular reader of mine (and if you aren't, you should be!), you know that I'm really big on engine efficiency. You know that the sound of a high-revving, free-breathing engine is like Jessica Simpson to my ears. Well, now that you've followed my insightful advice and replaced your stock intake and exhaust headers, it's time to take a look at some more bolt-on engine enhancers. This time, we'll take a look at a personal fave of mine: underdrive pulleys.Yes, pulleys. A completely different type of spinner, they're the unsung heroes of the internal combustion world. Yeah, I know ? pistons and valves get all the glory, but without pulleys, a lot of really important stuff wouldn't get done. The alternator, power steering pump, water pump, oil pump, cooling fan, and air conditioning compressor all rely on the humble underdrive pulley to do their work. Let's take a closer look at what actually goes down on the pulley end of the engine and learn how to make it more efficient.
The underdrive pulley rides on the crankshaft and turns with it on piston power. A serpentine belt rides on a groove cut into the pulley, and that belt loops around smaller pulleys attached to the other engine components I just mentioned, forcing them to turn as the underdrive pulley turns. In essence, we've just added a whole lot of extra load on the crankshaft; not only does it have to turn the wheels, but it also has to recharge the battery, cool the engine, and so forth. And that IS a big load!
So, what can we do to lighten the crank's job? Replace the pulley, of course! Like most stock engine parts, the pulley is engineered to: a) cost as little as possible, and b) work reliably for 100,000 miles.
Performance is secondary to economy and reliability. For this reason, most pulleys are made of cast iron-just like Grandma's old cast iron skillet. Cast iron might have been cutting-edge technology back when Stonehenge was being built, but for a ride worthy of Kid Turbo's praise, a good, modern pulley should be made of lightweight aluminum.
Think of Grandma's skillet for a sec. It makes great fried chicken, but if you've ever tried to lift it, you know that it weighs a freakin' ton. I'll bet that if you cook fried chicken (Yup, you can actually make fried chicken yourself, without the involvement of anyone from Kentucky), you'd probably fry it in an aluminum skillet. It works just as well, but it weighs about one tenth of what Grandma's skillet weighs.
A performance pulley is milled from lightweight billet aluminum and weighs a fraction of what the stock pulley weighs. Less weight means less force is necessary to turn the pulley. Moreover, its width and groove pattern are designed to maximize efficiency without creating extra friction on the belt. A lightweight pulley will allow your engine to reach high RPMs sooner, helping your engine climb smoothly into its powerband. You can expect about 6 to 10 additional horsepower and 7 to 12 more foot-pounds of torque after installation. Still not convinced? Well, I've got one more reason to upgrade up my sleeve: aluminum pulleys look way cool! Most are shiny silver, like the B & D series pulley from SRD, but some brands like the authority in pulleys, Unorthodox Racing, and AEM offer anodized pulleys to match whatever other under-the-hood bling you may have on your ride.
As for installing the bugger, it's pretty easy, but you'll need a good torque wrench and access to the bottom of your engine. PLEASE don't just jack up your car and slide under there-I want you to be alive to read my next article. If you don't have a set of reliable jack stands, I'd recommend having it installed by someone who does.
Now comes the fun part. If you drive a Nissan, I'd recommend checking out pulleys from Southwest Autoworks. Those guys fantasize about Nissans when they touch themselves ? no one knows Nissan performance better. If you drive a Honda, check out the super-cool billet pulleys from Superior Racing Development. If you drive anything else, I'd recommend pulleys from AEM and Unorthodox Racing. You can find underdrive crankshaft pulley kits from all these brands (and others) right here in the SCO Store. If you need help choosing a pulley, just give the sales folks a call and tell them that you're ready to fry your chicken in an aluminum pan. They'll understand. Trust me.
Cliffnotes: Pulleys create horsepower at the wheels by lightening the load on the driveshaft, and are straightforward to install, relatively cheap, and make a noticeable difference.
Chern,
Thanks for the info. I been planning on getting one, but I read before that its not recommended if you are running a sound system. I currently have a 1200 watt amp. Would adding a pulley to my car affect in any way?
Thanks
12-06-2007, 07:22 AM
#31
Thax for write up on pullies I probally wil look into pullies and a set of headers. And thanx but no bottle for my car not a big fan.
Last edited by anm6; 12-06-2007 at 07:32 AM.
12-06-2007, 07:23 AM
#32
I have actually read that article as well.
IDK, I've just been 50/50 on a pulley for the longest time.
So you're saying that you have never had any squeaks, oil leaks, loss of power in your accessories or any other "cons?"
I remember researching companies that sell UDP, but have forgotten since. What RELIABLE companies sell this at a reasonable price? I know the belt sizes are in the stickies. What about a light-weight pulley over an UDP?
IDK, I've just been 50/50 on a pulley for the longest time.
So you're saying that you have never had any squeaks, oil leaks, loss of power in your accessories or any other "cons?"
I remember researching companies that sell UDP, but have forgotten since. What RELIABLE companies sell this at a reasonable price? I know the belt sizes are in the stickies. What about a light-weight pulley over an UDP?
Last edited by !PrjctMax!; 12-06-2007 at 07:26 AM.
12-06-2007, 07:50 AM
#33
Everyone recommends Unortodox Racing for UDP, I went with the cosmo for $58 and knock on wood havent had any problems for the short time Ive had it. Ive got the light weight and under drive crank pulley. I would do my upgrades like this, usually wrong but keep stock air box,headers, y pipe,remove resonator keeping stock mufflers, spacers,udp and a tune. I havent read to many positive things about aftermarket intakes,seen difinitive and positive proof of Kinetix intake for NA and replacing stock mufflers for other than looks. This would save money for only true gains but not the bling. FLAME SUIT ON!
12-06-2007, 08:19 AM
#34
Everyone recommends Unortodox Racing for UDP, I went with the cosmo for $58 and knock on wood havent had any problems for the short time Ive had it. Ive got the light weight and under drive crank pulley. I would do my upgrades like this, usually wrong but keep stock air box,headers, y pipe,remove resonator keeping stock mufflers, spacers,udp and a tune. I havent read to many positive things about aftermarket intakes,seen difinitive and positive proof of Kinetix intake for NA and replacing stock mufflers for other than looks. This would save money for only true gains but not the bling. FLAME SUIT ON!
12-06-2007, 08:40 AM
#35
Everyone recommends Unortodox Racing for UDP, I went with the cosmo for $58 and knock on wood havent had any problems for the short time Ive had it. Ive got the light weight and under drive crank pulley. I would do my upgrades like this, usually wrong but keep stock air box,headers, y pipe,remove resonator keeping stock mufflers, spacers,udp and a tune. I havent read to many positive things about aftermarket intakes,seen difinitive and positive proof of Kinetix intake for NA and replacing stock mufflers for other than looks. This would save money for only true gains but not the bling. FLAME SUIT ON!
have you been reading? lolKinetix
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=544347
Mufflers are subjective IMO. For me, I'd rather sacrifice the few WHP and still maintain a quiet sound.
12-06-2007, 08:41 AM
#36
I'm going with a K&N drop in filter mainly for cost concerns but most aftermarket intakes soak up a lot of engine bay heat. Where I live we have high water concerns during heavy rains so a properly design cold air intake that is mounted in the fender well and lower than stock is not a good idea for my area. I have never understood the underhood bling factor either. Its one thing to look nice on the outside, wheels etc but for an area that is covered 99% of the time its kind of a waste of money. But if you got it spend it!
Unlees you are driving your car through 2ft plus of water the CAI will be fine.
Also the underhood bling is more for those of us that put max in car shows.
12-06-2007, 08:46 AM
#38
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 187
There's a big difference between Under-drive pulleys (smaller in diameter) and lightened pulleys (same diameter). You will only have to worry about under-performing electrical components with under-drive. Lightweight pulleys only shed weight from their stock counter part. Every 1 lbs shaved frees up 2.7HP.
Last edited by S_Klass; 12-06-2007 at 09:13 AM.
12-06-2007, 08:55 AM
#39
