I think my Brakes are F'd
Glad to here that it was fixed and that it was air in the system, which is what I originally thought was my prob and still hoping it is... have same syptoms. I was getting worried that I was going to have to spend big $$$ on abs module. So the problem still existed after they changed the abs actuator until they bled the brakes for a 4th time? is there some special way to blead maxima brakes that I am unaware of? Ima have my fingers crossed until I find a warm enough day to blead them.
This is what i found from the nissan manual which dosen't seem any different then any other car. Mine has become an intermitant problem again so I am going to wait for a warm day unless it gets worse. Thanks again for all the help.
Bleeding Brake System EFS002OT
CAUTION:
Carefully monitor brake fluid level at master cylinder during bleeding operation.
Fill reservoir with new brake fluid “DOT 3”. Make sure it is full at all times while bleeding air out of
system.
Place a container under master cylinder to avoid spillage of brake fluid.
Do not loosen the connecting portion of the actuator during air bleeding.
1. Turn ignition switch OFF and disconnect ABS actuator and control unit connector or battery ground cable.
2. Connect a transparent vinyl tube and container to air bleeder valve.
3. Fully depress brake pedal several times.
4. With brake pedal depressed, open air bleeder valve to release
air.
5. Close air bleeder valve.
6. Release brake pedal slowly.
7. Tighten air bleeder valve to specification.
8. Repeat steps 2. through 7. until no more air bubbles come out of
air bleeder valve.
9. Bleed the brake hydraulic system air bleeder valves in the following order:
Right rear brake → Left front brake → Left rear brake → Right front brake
Bleeding Brake System EFS002OT
CAUTION:
Carefully monitor brake fluid level at master cylinder during bleeding operation.
Fill reservoir with new brake fluid “DOT 3”. Make sure it is full at all times while bleeding air out of
system.
Place a container under master cylinder to avoid spillage of brake fluid.
Do not loosen the connecting portion of the actuator during air bleeding.
1. Turn ignition switch OFF and disconnect ABS actuator and control unit connector or battery ground cable.
2. Connect a transparent vinyl tube and container to air bleeder valve.
3. Fully depress brake pedal several times.
4. With brake pedal depressed, open air bleeder valve to release
air.
5. Close air bleeder valve.
6. Release brake pedal slowly.
7. Tighten air bleeder valve to specification.
8. Repeat steps 2. through 7. until no more air bubbles come out of
air bleeder valve.
9. Bleed the brake hydraulic system air bleeder valves in the following order:
Right rear brake → Left front brake → Left rear brake → Right front brake
you wount believe it but my maxima start making that sound after my car slipped on a exit ramp and went in a ditch, thank fully no damages..but the sound you were talking about started coming as soon as i came to a complete stop....
so basically its the brake lines...air gets in them and creates that sound....this can happen to anyone...this fix should be in the "How to sticky" before anyone goes out and blows money
so basically its the brake lines...air gets in them and creates that sound....this can happen to anyone...this fix should be in the "How to sticky" before anyone goes out and blows money
you wount believe it but my maxima start making that sound after my car slipped on a exit ramp and went in a ditch, thank fully no damages..but the sound you were talking about started coming as soon as i came to a complete stop....
so basically its the brake lines...air gets in them and creates that sound....this can happen to anyone...this fix should be in the "How to sticky" before anyone goes out and blows money
so basically its the brake lines...air gets in them and creates that sound....this can happen to anyone...this fix should be in the "How to sticky" before anyone goes out and blows money
It wasnt air that caused mine to false, it was debre on the sensors. They said it was "Air" the first time. But it ended up being the sensors sending false signals.
My wifes car is still not fixed. They repalced the control module, cleaned the sensors and bled the brakes. I will redo their work next week.....right now the ABS is unplugged and all is well but the wife is not comfortable drining without the ABS :/
Hi BigPete! Montreal Canadians gave your Tampa Bay Team a spanking last night....it was nice to see the skate on the other foot for a change as I remember you guys tieing a game in Montreal by the 3rd period with only seconds left and then winning it in a shoot out....after we were leading 3 - 0 going in to the third period! Last night we evened it out winning 5 - 2 although your 2 last goals were in the dieing minutes of the third period.....anyway enough about hockey. I love Florida and I plan on spending a few years of my retirement there....possibly Cape Coral or Fort Myers or Pompano Beach on the other side....who knows...We've been going down almost every year since '94. My parents used to have a condo in North Miami near Bal Harbour.
Anyway getting back to basics.....I had a 2004 SL for about 9 months when my dealership and Nissan bought it back (lease) and put me in the first batch of 2nd production run of '05. I had so many problems with my 04...the car was in the shop every 2 weeks. We (the service rep and I) used to call it the Friday afternoon special....referring to when the car was manufactured....lol! Anyway I am quite happy with my 05 SE however I still have had quite a lot of issues with the cars suspension. I do admit that some of it may be due to the fact that it is lowered (Eibach Prokit 1) however this car has a propensity to blow RHS (Right side) shocks like there is no tomorrow! I also have the Stillen Front strut bar. I had both top bearings and plates replaced. Several shocks replaced on 3 out of 4 corners of the car: One rear at least 1 or 2 left hand shocks and 3 right side shocks. Unfortunately with the extended warranty (Nissan) 4 years....this does not (conveniently) cover suspensions! And guess what? That's right (drum roll please) another RHS shock is now blown...argh! And is getting noisier and noisier. I can tell you that when you have some mileage on the car it's always better to change both front shocks at the same time as one can be a bit stiffer than the other and cause the other to "blow" soon after too. Now my dilema...do I: 1. Change the shocks at the stealership with an original one at my stealership...and I have negotiated a 10% discount with them although it's still like $60/hr....or do I: 2. Get aftermarket shocks KYB GR2's like a lot of the org members here ....likely having the work done by a garage charging half what the stealership charges....do I do all four or can I get away with the front 2 only? That's the other question too. The KYB's have a lifetime warranty too....so if they blow...the replacement is free....you hope....
As far as the brakes are concerned....You need to have them cleaned on a regular basis....I changed mine after the first year to aftermarket....over-sized, vented, cross-drilled, cadmium plated in the front with Hawk HPS pads and I was told these disks would outlive the car! The stock disks warp after a few K miles....I did the same with the rears except non cross-drilled and same size. Also Hawk HPS....The difference was amazing. I got all four done for what Nissan charges for just the fronts! And again the stopping power is just amazing! No fade...in fact the warmer they get the better they perform!
Now my question is this: I know Florida roads...they are quite simply much better than Montreal's pot holed and creviced roads....how on earth did you need a new front axle? Impossible...you would have to be driving 24/7 like a taxi every day and do off roading with the car and then some to have a defective front axle...never heard of this. And there was nothing wrong with your ABS too I'm sure. If you have weak front brakes due to low pads or warped disks or as you saw air pockets in your brake line, this will cause the ABS to kick in. As far as the belts are concerned it's a good idea to change them every so often. But a timing chain on an 04...no way. IMO make sure you keep on top of your stealership as they seem very amateurish....that's weird man! Happy Holidays and maybe I see you in Florida one day....at a hockey game..lol!
Anyway getting back to basics.....I had a 2004 SL for about 9 months when my dealership and Nissan bought it back (lease) and put me in the first batch of 2nd production run of '05. I had so many problems with my 04...the car was in the shop every 2 weeks. We (the service rep and I) used to call it the Friday afternoon special....referring to when the car was manufactured....lol! Anyway I am quite happy with my 05 SE however I still have had quite a lot of issues with the cars suspension. I do admit that some of it may be due to the fact that it is lowered (Eibach Prokit 1) however this car has a propensity to blow RHS (Right side) shocks like there is no tomorrow! I also have the Stillen Front strut bar. I had both top bearings and plates replaced. Several shocks replaced on 3 out of 4 corners of the car: One rear at least 1 or 2 left hand shocks and 3 right side shocks. Unfortunately with the extended warranty (Nissan) 4 years....this does not (conveniently) cover suspensions! And guess what? That's right (drum roll please) another RHS shock is now blown...argh! And is getting noisier and noisier. I can tell you that when you have some mileage on the car it's always better to change both front shocks at the same time as one can be a bit stiffer than the other and cause the other to "blow" soon after too. Now my dilema...do I: 1. Change the shocks at the stealership with an original one at my stealership...and I have negotiated a 10% discount with them although it's still like $60/hr....or do I: 2. Get aftermarket shocks KYB GR2's like a lot of the org members here ....likely having the work done by a garage charging half what the stealership charges....do I do all four or can I get away with the front 2 only? That's the other question too. The KYB's have a lifetime warranty too....so if they blow...the replacement is free....you hope....
As far as the brakes are concerned....You need to have them cleaned on a regular basis....I changed mine after the first year to aftermarket....over-sized, vented, cross-drilled, cadmium plated in the front with Hawk HPS pads and I was told these disks would outlive the car! The stock disks warp after a few K miles....I did the same with the rears except non cross-drilled and same size. Also Hawk HPS....The difference was amazing. I got all four done for what Nissan charges for just the fronts! And again the stopping power is just amazing! No fade...in fact the warmer they get the better they perform!
Now my question is this: I know Florida roads...they are quite simply much better than Montreal's pot holed and creviced roads....how on earth did you need a new front axle? Impossible...you would have to be driving 24/7 like a taxi every day and do off roading with the car and then some to have a defective front axle...never heard of this. And there was nothing wrong with your ABS too I'm sure. If you have weak front brakes due to low pads or warped disks or as you saw air pockets in your brake line, this will cause the ABS to kick in. As far as the belts are concerned it's a good idea to change them every so often. But a timing chain on an 04...no way. IMO make sure you keep on top of your stealership as they seem very amateurish....that's weird man! Happy Holidays and maybe I see you in Florida one day....at a hockey game..lol!
Last edited by xorbitman; Dec 28, 2007 at 12:13 AM.
thanks for the info. It ended up being dirty sensors on my car causing abs to false. They're was nothing wrong with my front axle but my stealership is a bunch of tards so they replaced it on a wim.
The Nissan dealer said a code came up for the front left wheel speed sensor. They replaced it and drove the car for a bit....seemed to be fixed until they pulled into the dealership and the car shuddered upon slow braking. Now, they want to replace the ABS module with a new one......I already replaced it with a used module and the same problem persisted. I told them I doubt two random ABS modules could have the same exact failure. We'll see next week when they get the part in stock...I hope this isn't the problem since a new uit cost $1200 plus labor.
haha I had a 98 millenia S, traded it in like 2 years ago because my supercharger gaskets were going bad and mazda wanted like $2k to fix it lol
I loved that car when it ran.. Tranny was otw out when I traded it in 2... quoted me $5,000.00 for a new tranny. I laughed and got rid of it. That millercycle engine was something special. It had nice power output tho. Just inpossible to work on it. Took like 5 hours to do any sort of engine work because you had to take everything apart.
I loved that car when it ran.. Tranny was otw out when I traded it in 2... quoted me $5,000.00 for a new tranny. I laughed and got rid of it. That millercycle engine was something special. It had nice power output tho. Just inpossible to work on it. Took like 5 hours to do any sort of engine work because you had to take everything apart.
The Nissan dealer said a code came up for the front left wheel speed sensor. They replaced it and drove the car for a bit....seemed to be fixed until they pulled into the dealership and the car shuddered upon slow braking. Now, they want to replace the ABS module with a new one......I already replaced it with a used module and the same problem persisted. I told them I doubt two random ABS modules could have the same exact failure. We'll see next week when they get the part in stock...I hope this isn't the problem since a new uit cost $1200 plus labor.
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