I did a search and there was a few threads with this subject but alot with either mis information or wrong pictures. I am not saying anybody was wrong, however there is a Rear Endlink Topic, so I decided to start one for the Front Endlinks

Removal of OEM front endlinks:
Remove the top bolt / nut on both sides, then you can rotate the sway bar to make it easier to remove the bottom nut. There is a post that has the directions to remove (posted by coolmax05)
Fairly simple.

Installation:
From the back side of the car (closet to the wheel well with brake rotor at your chest), you'll feed the bolt through the factory hole with the biggest bushing closest to the backside of the factory bracket (top of strut tower). The only thing you'll see once installed is the washer and the nut. The bottom is self explanatory. This is coming directly from Joe @ RacinglinePerformace.com See pics.

 

Nice write up!!! That's mod # 3 on my list

 

Thanks Larsim. That's 4 on mine. It was a little difficut at first, but after speaking directly to Joe, they were on in no time. Hadn't checked the list, but hopefully we'll be able to meet up at the WPB meet.

 

Yep - I am pretty sure I will go and I am looking forward to meet many of you!!!

 

Every write-up I saw with pics looked different than mine! The top part where the end-link bolts to is pretty much the opposite...is it because I have KYB shocks?



I test drove it and no sounds or anything...so I assume that it's ok, right?

 

Not sure on that one. I'd get hold of Joe. I am ridin factory shocks (for now) but I don't think that would effect it because the (upper) hole where the top of the front endlink goes is stock. Again, not sure. Sorry I couldn't help ya out.

 

x2! How is it even possible. Only explanation are the different shocks....

 

projmax, i want to know too. have also have the gr-2's.

 

i just went off of chern's pic of the endlink install.

 

This is the correct installation, same as chern's. ( frist sets that went out did not have instructions, but word got out to most, instuctions are now included)

As with all racingline endlinks the bushings go on around the hiem joint / rod end. This helps keep out contaminents as well as stiffen up the joint for better reaction to input. The reason for the larger bushing is because of the gap needed to clear the tab on the oem strut, if the endlinks touches this tab during extreme angles of steering there is risk of the joint breaking. the gap is shown in the pic below.

 

boooooooooooo! So I have to re-do that again! Shouldn't take too long since the bolts/nuts are fresh and nut rusted together.

I figured that since my little mount thing seemed "backwards" compared to the others, then it would have one bushing on one side and one on the other, but guess not.

thanks for the quick response...I hope nothing gets bent while it sits there for a week or so until I get the chance to swap it.

 

I doubt it. The C shaped tab appears to be welded on pointing out instead of inwards like OEM. Therefore nothing looks to be binding, your just not getting full protection from contaminants.

 

Gotcha, that makes sense now...I just hope that it still mounts correctly since the C shaped tab is backwards.

 

Seems like this has helped out a lot of people or at least has answered some questions. Best of luck to all.

 

I looked at the directions that are posted on the racingline website and it shows that the ball joint is the side that connects to the strut. Is this another way to install?

 

+1 on this.

from what the instructions show (both website and instructions) the ball joint is supposed to be on top connected to the strut where as the solid angle peice is supposed to be on the bottom. does it matter as to how it is put on?

 

Clarification..................The instructions have changed slightly

The first releases of the Front endlinks came with 2 different sized bushings, the larger one in the pic that Josh posted above was a spacer to make sure nothing rubbed on the tab for the strut/endlink.

The OEM struts have the C shaped tab facing inward toward the endlink and therefore need some back spacing to avoid the endlink making contact and possibly breaking.


KYB struts have the tab facing the tire, If you have KYB's you can pretty much install the endlinks almost any way you want since it mounts to a smooth surface with no chance of binding.


The change was made cause the 2 different sized bushings comfused some people. The extra flanged nut already attached to the ball joint created a simpler install for most and cut down on installation errors.

Both styles and versions perform the same, the switch as mentioned was purely for easy of installation