Hilbe, did u buy em?

 

No. I got rejected with my $65 offer. I am waiting for my shop to get back to me with an install estimate. If its not that bad, I will buy.

 

I'm wait for an update. But 100$ is nuts with install would be less than Cattman..

 

But with Cattman, you're buy quality and customer service and support. But IMO, it's still a lil too much..

 

Cattmans were supposed to be DONE around jan...

its been so long w/ no updates from him, that i might just do this instead...

I know he has had some problems etc.. but its april almost LOL ...

Yes cattman has GRRRRRRRRRRREAT products and AMAZING customer service... but like everyone else said... 100 bux is SOOOOOOOO cheap

 

A few questions:

Which ones are the easier ones to install (front and/or rear)?

Which ones require wire extensions for O2 sensors (front and/or rear)?

Which ones require an EGR bung welded on (front and/or rear)?

I'm wondering if I can knock out the easy one myself and then pay someone to do the hard one...

 

the front is the easier one. the rear needs the extension. i believe the egr valve is in the back. if you have an engine hoist, go for it. just support it and remove the crossmember, then you have the engine easily movable. and since your not removing it completely, you can have the motor "float". itll make removing the back ones sooooo much easier imo. btw, i helped my friend swap out his motor in his 02 max and it was quite simple.

 

That is why I thought about removing the motor and doing the headers, cams and lightweight flywheel all at once. Its fairly easy to remove and the installing those parts is a matter of course.

 

Alright guys. Didnt make any progress on sunday because i had too much going on. I didnt get anything done today either but i saw a problem today during lunch when i was looking over the car. The rear manifold doesnt seat on the block all the way because its making contact with the rear motor mount....If the one exaust tube coming out of the manifold was bent just a little more different it would be perfect...so gonna pull it off tomorrow after work...trying to get my friend from work to email me the damn pics to show yall what im talking about.

 

OBX also has some headers out for the Altima. $200 to $300 on eBay. See link:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OBX-S...spagenameZWDVW

I'm wondering if those would fit any better?

 

Im pretty sure just by looking at them they will fit better...Because look at the runners coming out of the manifold...they are short, not long like the ones i bought. and they exhaust manfolds on the obx ones look almost just the OEM ones just no cats. Also the OBX ones doesnt have the egr bung either... Im not too upset about the ebay ones cause it was only 100 bucks...Im sure i could make them work but i dont think the things i have to do to make it work are really worth it.

 

actually the rear manifold looks identical to the OEM ones minus the cat so i dont think there would be a fitment issue...BUT if im gonna spend 250-300 i might as well wait for stillen or catman to produce theirs. I spoke with a guy from stillen on saturday, I had asked him about headers for the Maxima. He said "We are in the process of developing them right now but i cant give you a release date" whether or not he was for real i dont know...but he said that they will have an egr bung on them that will mount perferct to the stock EGR. and that seems to be the problem with these other headers. They dont take the time to fit a proper EGR bung on them. And i honestly dont know what kind of problems you would have not using the egr. may have problems and may not. I would personally like to have the egr hooked up.

 

I heard from varying sources that Stillen headers lost power for Altimas.

Jiny: You may want to try grinding whatever is in the way, rather than re-shape the header.

 

Ok I guess no one listen to me but..

Your basically going to have the SES light on and throwing the EGR malfuction code off.
Since Ive a set of headers installed 3 weeks ago , this my issue with the SES and EGR not being hooked up.

Im going to get a o2 sim and trick the ecu into having the o2.
Your also going to smell alot more burn fuel since the egr is not hooked up.

I already told you the rear near the subframe is very hard and tight space to fit, your going to need to almost take the subframe off and tilt the motor so you can squeeze the rear header up there. Its very close to the rear mount.

If you got the time the make sure that EGR bung is weld in the proper place , compare it to the OEM manifold.
just my 02.cents since I already went thru this ordeal

 

During my header install we never removed the subframe, the hardest part was access to remove the rear heat shields so we could get to the rear bolts to remove the headers, we accomplished this by removing the wiper blades (recommend the hood also) and the upper frame for unrestricted access from the top. We never once had to loosen the subframe or tilt the engine.

Access when removed.



Corey showing access from the top with the upper framing removed.



What we removed.



Rear Heatshield that must be removed against the firewall before access can be achieved to the rear header bolts.



To remove the rear header bolts, a good impact wrench with extentions is essential for the lower header bolts!!!

 

I never had to remove the subframe to get the header in there...i did though have to move the power steering pump to make clearance to slide the headers in...and my buddy was able to fabricate an egr bung that hooked up perferct to the egr tube. My problem was that the manifold would not seat on the rear becuase the far left runner was resting on the motor mount. I didnt notice this till yesterday when i was checking with a feeler guage to make sure it was seated...

 

I've seen some chinamade ebay crap firsthand (not these particular headers but downpipes and headers for Turbo Buicks). Bad welds, poor fit, low grade SS that would need modifying or not even fixable. Why do you think it can be sold for $100? If you "have" to have headers do yourself a favor and wait for the Catman ones. At least you know who made them and can get some support on the install. I would bet people that bother with these chinamade stuff end up replacing them very soon, either going back to stock or Catman's when the are done.

 

And going back to stock is somewhat more of a biatch than the initial header install...

 

Is it possible to take a 04' navi system out of one Maxima & put it in another 04' Maxima that's NOT wired for navigation??? If so, quanto peso???

 

 

LOLOL!!!

 

^^^^ LOL

 

Yep...

 

Whats the status of these?

 

Any progress yet?

 

i think he said that the rear didnt fit right so he put the oem ones back on.

 

Yeah...I pulled them off and aborted the project. I did have fitment issue with the rear manifold becuase the rear header wasnt shaped just right so the runner closest to the motor mount was resting on it keeping the manifold from seating all the way. I could have made it work but what i had to do was not worth it. The front manifold and Y pipe also required some grinding on the flanges so they wouldnt make contact with the starter. I bought them because the discussion on these had been going on for a while and since they were only a 100 bucks i decided to give it a shot and failed. But you get what you paid for. So i myself plan on waiting for either stillen, or cattman to produce theirs. Atleast this way i know they were made right and wont have to worry about whether or not they will fit.

 

jiny: Well I appreciate the effort in giving it a try. At least you had the guts to shell out some money to try to see if it worked. Sometimes things dont work out. The problem is that Im not sure if these companies will be producing a header anytime soon. Did you say that the OBX headers would work?

 

From what i can see, the OBX headers mentioned in post #50 will fit. They are built almost identical to the OEM ones minus the cat converters and what not, only thing though is that they have short runners on them...which are good for low end but not so good for high end or vice versa...someone correct me if im wrong. But with those you would still have to fabricate and EGR bung on those too...

 

judging by the pics and what i see in my maxima, the job is WAY too big for the performance gains.

just my 2 cents

 

i wouldnt mind doing this mod in the summer, i have no problem pulling out this motor; but the fact of gettin a safc2 and goin through that again [did it with my boosted civic], to get the full performance gain, you'd be sacrificing i think a noticible difference in gas mileage. in the civic with a 4 cyl, losing some mpg wasnt too bad but for the max, it probably will. but again, imo

 

i have ebay headers but dont ask me which ones i got from ebay cuz i dont remember and checked my feedback. the guy that sells them no longer sells them.... but they have been fine!

 

Well some apparently do NOT work.

 

look-at ->> how is you gas mileage relative to pre-headers? did you tune it? if so, with what?

 

Guess you figured out what all your codes were then?

 

my gas mileage is now 16.5 but i have seen 17.5 before but i have been driving like an ******* recently so that explains the drop. but yeah thanks redls1 the only code i have no is from the headers possibly the need a o2 simulator im driving around with a expired inspection too woops! yes i am tuned with safc2 click on links in my sig.