Kbuitre

Well my wife hit a hole in the road and my front passanger tire is gone...
Took the max for an alignment before i get the new tire...and the stealership
came out with a list of things that I need to get replace or fix...
Most of these I can probably do it my self the only one I'm not sure if I should do it my self is the brake flush... and the CV Joinit.

Air filter 25.00
Wiper Inserts 25.00
Rear Brake pads and brake flush 345.00
New Tire 289.00
Shift **** 80.00
Front Pass CV Joint 225.00
Exaust Brakets are broken 150.00

Please give your input and see if they are just trying todig in to my pockets...

Thanks ....

merlin2375

iTrader: (3)

Air filter 25.00, do it yourself
Wiper Inserts 25.00, do it yourself
Rear Brake pads and brake flush 345.00, do it yourself or take it to a mechanic (not dealership)
New Tire 289.00, are you kidding?
Shift **** 80.00, why?
Front Pass CV Joint 225.00, do it yourself or take it to a mechanic (not dealership)
Exaust Brakets are broken 150.00, exhaust shop

redls1

iTrader: (2)

You took it in for an alignment. Yet they took it upon themselves to take the back tires off and look at the brakes. They are looking to make a buck off you. Most if not all you could do yourself. Go back and check some of the things they said you needed and verify.

The brake start from the

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1) brake fluid, I like the Valvoline synthetic stuff that Pep Boys sells, $5 for the large bottle, 1 bottle should be enough for the entire system
2)brake bleeder kit, $5, basically a clear tube attached to a little cup
3)a friend to push down the brake pedal

Pop the hood, and unscrew the cap to the brake fluid tank. Attach clear tube on the bleeder kit to the bleeder screw located on the caliper, open the screw 1/4 to 1/2 a turn (you will see the fluid fill the tube). With it open, have your buddy push down the brake pedal, slowly until it goes to the floor. Once he says its down, close up the bleeder screw, tell him its closed and to bring the pedal up. Repeat this procedure a few times, remember to check the level of the fluid under the hood. Just keep refilling, bleeding, refilling and bleeding. Do this for every caliper, and you system will be flushed.

DeusExMaxima

iTrader: (1)

Air filter 25.00 Go to Pep boys and get it for probably half that price.
Wiper Inserts 25.00 Same as above
Rear Brake pads and brake flush 345.00 rear brake pads are under $50 unless you get high performance pads and even then, they shouldnt be much more than this
New Tire 289.00 My ultra high perfromance 265 35 zr 18 tires cost $192
Shift **** 80.00 dont buy this from stealership unless its the factory one
Front Pass CV Joint 225.00I doubt u damaged the joint unless it hit the boot and tore it and even if that were true, it would likely only need a boot for about $25
Exhaust Brackets are broken 150.00 Get under ur car and see if this is true. I doubt it is true

Why do you think it is called the "stealership"?

anm6

iTrader: (2)

Um why or why did you got to the dealer for an alingment?? Shift **** are they serious. Do 3/4 of the work your self ao take it to a local repair shop and stay away from the stealer.. They always rip through cars to upsell work even if its not needed.( Shift ****)

bdmaxima

iTrader: (3)

if ur still under ur warrenty the dealership should replace ur exhaust brackets free of charge. i say that cause mine also broke and dealership did it free of charge

chernmax

iTrader: (15)

Holy ****!!! What a freakin ripoff and damn those prices are inflated like the Hindenburg!!!

larsim

+1 on everything he said.

jreilly04

iTrader: (1)

to bad you dont live in the north east i would hook you with all nissan parts with mazing prices. and i am a tech but for acura. i own a 2004 maxima. if you have any questions or anything let me kn ow i am sure i can help. or if u want better prices on the parts let me know, you just have to pay for me to ship them to texas which would still save u money. also when u do the rear pads your probablly gonna wanna resurfac so u dont get s shimmy or shake.

Monotaur

Luckily, my dealership has been kind to me as of late.

I've had 2 exhaust brackets break, and I think it was something like $30 to fix each one (they happened several months apart).

Everything on that list seems to be pretty inflated...

NismoMax80

iTrader: (6)

find a new dealer. feel free to let them know what's on your mind and that they can find your (and all you know) business there.

unless you actually need all that stuff done... some don't mind dealer suggestions and pricing

Kbuitre

i have the estimated quantities on the invoice for the alignment and oil change that cost me all together 110 +/-
I will post a image of it probably tomorrow...

for the shift **** the bottom piece broke off and now is loose but i'm not planning on changing that any time soon...

They told me the boot is broken and the grease is falling out thats why i needed the CV Joint...

The tires I have on are about 170 bucks from Discountire about 220 with the life warranty.

I been reading on how to flush the brake fluid and that may be the first thing I do.

I may need some guide lines on how to replace the boot on the CV joint.

Thank you so much for the input

I love this site.

Kryogen

Why do they say you need a brake flush?

How often do you guys do it anyways?

redls1

iTrader: (2)

Thought I read something like ever 2 years.


Found this quick write up for the cv axles. Might give you some idea.Also here is a link to download the FSM.

http://phatg20.net/index.php?option=...derby=2&page=2



Remove wheel.
Remove axle cotter pin.
Remove axle nut with 36mm socket.
If equipped with ABS, disconnect wiring and move sensor out of the way to prevent damage.
Remove the clip holding the rubber brake line to the strut.
Pull brake line free from strut.
For the right axle, remove the three bolts attaching the mid-axle bearing to the bearing carrier.
Remove the two bolts attaching the bottom of strut to hub.
Pivot hub/brake rotor assembly outward while tapping on the end of the axle to push the axle back out of the hub.
Once the axle is clear of the hub, pull the axle out of the transmission.
To install new axle, reverse procedure.
Torque axle nut to 174-231 ft./lbs.
Torque strut bolts to 103-117 ft./lbs.
Install a NEW axle cotter pin.
If equipped with an automatic transmission, you MUST first remove the right axle to replace the left axle. Insert a large screwdriver in the right axle hole and drive out the left axle.

That's the short version, a Haynes, Chilton or FSM can give you more detailed info. If you have the right tools, it's about 1-1/2 hours of work.

Kryogen

Not to hijack the thread but which brake fluid would you guys recommend to me and the poster of the thread? Any DOT3 like prestone brand fluid or whatever?

NismoMax80

iTrader: (6)

i recommend reading the fluid section.

redls1

iTrader: (2)

Valvoline synpower or ATE super blue seem to be popular.

Kbuitre

Here is the link to the image of their qoute...

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...99_20_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...99_19_full.jpg

redls1

iTrader: (2)

Just crazy!

Apollos2

iTrader: (16)

The exhaust brackets have been know to break underneath the engine compartment, so they may be bad but this is a known issue and if you have any of this work done at the dealership I would try to get them to fix it for free or at least for parts price only. It's an easy thing for them to fix once the car is up on the lift.

Here is a link about that particular problem:
http://www.6thgenmaxima.org/forums/v...hlight=buzzing

Kbuitre

I have the extended warranty so the braquets should be cover I think.
I only will be paying 58 dollars...that includes everything ...
I need to double check the amount my warranty papers before I go back there or to any other dealership.

Kbuitre

It looks like Flava 24/7 may be able to hook me up with one of is buddy's
to take care of the axle problem.

Thanks very good short version