Rotors...ch
#1
Rotors...ch
Ok...I know there are threads on rotors, I have been doin a bit of reading on the types of rotors the past couple days and would just like some final input before i order some new ones.
Ok...so ive been reading a lot of "just go with drilled Only"...then you read all this crap about drilled crack over time blah blah blah. Or no, just go with slotted they keep heat down, and your pads cleaner without compromising the structural integrity of the rotor...then its no, the slotted will wear your pads down faster blah blah blah... So i have an idea of what i want to do would just like to know from the guys with cross-drilled, slotted or whatever you may be using how well certain rotors have been working out for you. I also plan to order from rotorpros (i know they are "zinc" coated) but has anyone had any rust problems with those rotors?
Any input is appreciated
Ok...so ive been reading a lot of "just go with drilled Only"...then you read all this crap about drilled crack over time blah blah blah. Or no, just go with slotted they keep heat down, and your pads cleaner without compromising the structural integrity of the rotor...then its no, the slotted will wear your pads down faster blah blah blah... So i have an idea of what i want to do would just like to know from the guys with cross-drilled, slotted or whatever you may be using how well certain rotors have been working out for you. I also plan to order from rotorpros (i know they are "zinc" coated) but has anyone had any rust problems with those rotors?
Any input is appreciated
#3
I have the cross drilled and slotted rotors, I got them from the group deal section of this forum and I must say its been about a year and I haven't had a issue so far. These are also zinc plated from what I remember and I must say that so far no issues. But I must recommend that if you plan on changing pads and rotors then also change your regular brake lines to stainless steel ones. Other then that I would go with the cross drilled and slotted ones. Ive been on the org for a while and I don't think Ive seen a cracked rotor or anything like that so the structural integrity stuff doesn't make sense to me. other then that id say go with what you like, I have both and no complaints here.
#5
DO NOT get stock sized rotors that are drilled...slotted is still meh, but doable.
Blanks>slotted>drilled
Just get better brake pads along with blanks and you will be set. I have done some heavy spirited driving at times and my blanks paired with Hawk HPS pads have never failed me...also because brake fade was eliminated due to having S/S brake lines as well.
Blanks>slotted>drilled
Just get better brake pads along with blanks and you will be set. I have done some heavy spirited driving at times and my blanks paired with Hawk HPS pads have never failed me...also because brake fade was eliminated due to having S/S brake lines as well.
#6
s/s lines dont get rid of brake fade, it just provides a firmer pedal because the stainless steel mesh on the outside works like a chinese finger trap and squezes on the flex line when it tries to expand...brake fade is all in the pads and rotors. hawk pads are great tho.
not trying to be an *** just letting you know
not trying to be an *** just letting you know
#7
I have cross drilled and slotted with HPS pads from rotorpros, I went this setup because of the numerous members who bought this exact setup with no issues, no SS lines, I love the setup and after the 1st couple hundred miles the brakes really grab, initially after they are 1st installed they sort of feel worse them what was taken off, but slowly improve, I also had the brake fluid replaced.
I'm hard on my brakes, I accelerate into turn and brake hard as well as accelerate hard coming up on exit ramps and brake hard at the end car stops way better then stock, repeated stops are consistent where with OEM repeated stops I could feel the brake fade building, increasing each stop.
My OEM rotors did not warp, the pads ate into the rotors and I replaced them because I could not stand the vibration from high speed stops, car stopped good but vibration was driving me nuts.
drilled vs. dimpled rotors, fast brakes is sending all it's future kits out with slotted and dimpled rotors to prevent heat cracking, I don't know how much that effects us when it's mostly Honda Fits, and Toyota Yaris with extremely small rotors to begin with, the rotors are already small so I would not worry about heat cracking a rotor on a Maxima.
I'm hard on my brakes, I accelerate into turn and brake hard as well as accelerate hard coming up on exit ramps and brake hard at the end car stops way better then stock, repeated stops are consistent where with OEM repeated stops I could feel the brake fade building, increasing each stop.
My OEM rotors did not warp, the pads ate into the rotors and I replaced them because I could not stand the vibration from high speed stops, car stopped good but vibration was driving me nuts.
drilled vs. dimpled rotors, fast brakes is sending all it's future kits out with slotted and dimpled rotors to prevent heat cracking, I don't know how much that effects us when it's mostly Honda Fits, and Toyota Yaris with extremely small rotors to begin with, the rotors are already small so I would not worry about heat cracking a rotor on a Maxima.
This is off Fastbrakes.com:
Fastbrakes will be switching over to SLOTTED & DIMPLED ROTORS for most kits in the near future. Orders for slotted & drilled will be filled with slotted & dimpled rotors as soon as our stock of slotted & drilled rotors runs out.
Fastbrakes decided to do this for a couple of reasons: 1) Dimpled rotors will not remove as much weight from the rotors, which will aid in keeping the rotors cooler, and 2) the dimpling will not promote stress cracking as drilling will sometimes do on smaller rotors.
Fastbrakes will be switching over to SLOTTED & DIMPLED ROTORS for most kits in the near future. Orders for slotted & drilled will be filled with slotted & dimpled rotors as soon as our stock of slotted & drilled rotors runs out.
Fastbrakes decided to do this for a couple of reasons: 1) Dimpled rotors will not remove as much weight from the rotors, which will aid in keeping the rotors cooler, and 2) the dimpling will not promote stress cracking as drilling will sometimes do on smaller rotors.
#8
#11
True, but the s/s lines provide constant solid pressure which minimizes brake fade.
#12
BRAKE BLAH BLAH BLAH
So I've only had my Maxima for about a year, I keep seeing all this stuff about slotted, drilled, both, zinc coated, rust, everything you can think of.
I think these brake threads are worthless, most just say yeah i bought what everybody else bought and it was a good price. WACK!!!
Keep in mind where you live, those who live in areas where you get snow, salty rain (east coast area) i see why u might want zinc coated.
Talk to engineers about brakes they give you the truth.
Alot of these rotors are poorly made, alot of people don't know how to break in new pads and rotors.
On my RSX i changed out the OEM PADS FOR HAWK PADS, awesome but the Pads wore down the rotor, comes to find out the Hawks were stronger than the Rotor if that makes since.
THEN I went to STOPTECH DIRECT REPLACEMENT BLANKS & HAWK PADS, awesome, haven't changed to any other setup since then.
I"VE DOWN ROAD COURSES as well as drag and I like the way they brake even when they heat up, no shaking of the wheel and don't need to let them cool down extremly before driving on them again.
THAT BIG BRAKE KIT STUFF looks awesome but our cars are not that heavy don't produce that much torque< and i haven't seen too many people with mods or dynos to show they pusch serious power.
DON"T WASTE YOUR TIME OR MONEY. JUST KNOW WITH BIGGER RIMS YOU WANT STRONGER PADS AND ROTORS SO THEY DON"T WEAR DOWN AS QUICKLY YOU DID ADD MORE MASS THAN WHAT STOCK WAS RATED>>>
I think these brake threads are worthless, most just say yeah i bought what everybody else bought and it was a good price. WACK!!!
Keep in mind where you live, those who live in areas where you get snow, salty rain (east coast area) i see why u might want zinc coated.
Talk to engineers about brakes they give you the truth.
Alot of these rotors are poorly made, alot of people don't know how to break in new pads and rotors.
On my RSX i changed out the OEM PADS FOR HAWK PADS, awesome but the Pads wore down the rotor, comes to find out the Hawks were stronger than the Rotor if that makes since.
THEN I went to STOPTECH DIRECT REPLACEMENT BLANKS & HAWK PADS, awesome, haven't changed to any other setup since then.
I"VE DOWN ROAD COURSES as well as drag and I like the way they brake even when they heat up, no shaking of the wheel and don't need to let them cool down extremly before driving on them again.
THAT BIG BRAKE KIT STUFF looks awesome but our cars are not that heavy don't produce that much torque< and i haven't seen too many people with mods or dynos to show they pusch serious power.
DON"T WASTE YOUR TIME OR MONEY. JUST KNOW WITH BIGGER RIMS YOU WANT STRONGER PADS AND ROTORS SO THEY DON"T WEAR DOWN AS QUICKLY YOU DID ADD MORE MASS THAN WHAT STOCK WAS RATED>>>
#13
So I've only had my Maxima for about a year, I keep seeing all this stuff about slotted, drilled, both, zinc coated, rust, everything you can think of.
I think these brake threads are worthless, most just say yeah i bought what everybody else bought and it was a good price. WACK!!!
Keep in mind where you live, those who live in areas where you get snow, salty rain (east coast area) i see why u might want zinc coated.
Talk to engineers about brakes they give you the truth.
Alot of these rotors are poorly made, alot of people don't know how to break in new pads and rotors.
On my RSX
I think these brake threads are worthless, most just say yeah i bought what everybody else bought and it was a good price. WACK!!!
Keep in mind where you live, those who live in areas where you get snow, salty rain (east coast area) i see why u might want zinc coated.
Talk to engineers about brakes they give you the truth.
Alot of these rotors are poorly made, alot of people don't know how to break in new pads and rotors.
On my RSX