shaking steering wheel on every brake?
05-30-2008, 09:49 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Fort Worth, Texas Baby
Posts: 351
shaking steering wheel on every brake?
Gys i need a lil help.. every time a hit the brake my steering wheel shakes... some ppl told me its the alignment and some ppl says my rotors are warp.. which one is true? any of you guys have this problem before? and about the rotors whats the difference about drilled and slotted rotors? i know drilled is the one with holes but the slotted is it the one with lines? some advice will help alot thanx....
05-30-2008, 10:40 PM
#4
Stock sized rotors that are drilled just take away surface area from the pad to grab onto, and they have been known to crack as well.
If you would really want to, then get slotted, but I would still recommend quality blank rotors with quality brake pads, paired with s/s brake lines and you are golden
If you would really want to, then get slotted, but I would still recommend quality blank rotors with quality brake pads, paired with s/s brake lines and you are golden
05-30-2008, 11:13 PM
#7
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Fort Worth, Texas Baby
Posts: 351
i agree on those brand... they all can be trusted preetysure... but ther too expensive... what i want is like in the midle... not too cheap and not too expesive but in good working condition...
Last edited by jimmypronet; 05-30-2008 at 11:38 PM.
05-31-2008, 12:03 AM
#8
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=563154
read that, someone else ask a similar question just days ago
I went with the rotor pros cross drilled and slotted with hawk hps pads and new fluid, made the ride so smooth I would do it again
and drilled is the holes, slotted is the lines and vented is just like the oem rotors have, 2 surfaces are sandwiched together with a vent in the middle to help dissipate heat
read that, someone else ask a similar question just days ago
I went with the rotor pros cross drilled and slotted with hawk hps pads and new fluid, made the ride so smooth I would do it again
and drilled is the holes, slotted is the lines and vented is just like the oem rotors have, 2 surfaces are sandwiched together with a vent in the middle to help dissipate heat
05-31-2008, 06:35 AM
#11
Nations 1st 6th Gen Turbo
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Location: Displaced New Yorker in Southern, MD
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http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=563154
read that, someone else ask a similar question just days ago
I went with the rotor pros cross drilled and slotted with hawk hps pads and new fluid, made the ride so smooth I would do it again
and drilled is the holes, slotted is the lines and vented is just like the oem rotors have, 2 surfaces are sandwiched together with a vent in the middle to help dissipate heat
read that, someone else ask a similar question just days ago
I went with the rotor pros cross drilled and slotted with hawk hps pads and new fluid, made the ride so smooth I would do it again
and drilled is the holes, slotted is the lines and vented is just like the oem rotors have, 2 surfaces are sandwiched together with a vent in the middle to help dissipate heat
I would also add new steel braided brake lines because in my opinion the best bang for the buck brake upgrade includes:
1- Sticky Tires
2- Steel braided brake lines
3- Performance brake pads (Hawk, EBC)
4- If your rotors are warped, then Rotopros are some of the best priced!!!
This is an older picture of my setup...
probably as much as your turbo setup
05-31-2008, 08:36 AM
#15
05-31-2008, 10:19 AM
#17
Nations 1st 6th Gen Turbo
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Displaced New Yorker in Southern, MD
Posts: 10,202
For normal street driving and somewhat spirited driving there should be zero difference on the stopping distance. If autocrossing, totally different...
For a better look, cross/drilled is the way to go. For better braking that is light on the bank, sticky tires, steel brake lines, performance pads.
For a better look, cross/drilled is the way to go. For better braking that is light on the bank, sticky tires, steel brake lines, performance pads.
05-31-2008, 03:37 PM
#18
For normal street driving and somewhat spirited driving there should be zero difference on the stopping distance. If autocrossing, totally different... For a better look, cross/drilled is the way to go. For better braking that is light on the bank, sticky tires, steel brake lines, performance pads.
For a better look, cross/drilled is the way to go. For better braking that is light on the bank, sticky tires, steel brake lines, performance pads.
05-31-2008, 06:25 PM
#19
nothing simple about those brakes, both the brake pads and the rotors are made of ceramic or carbon fiber, best stopping power available but both rotors and pads wear extremely fast, but sure if I had the money for a million dollar all out track machine
06-01-2008, 01:22 PM
#21
caliper comes off with 2 bolts....
06-01-2008, 04:16 PM
#22
Sure, but the point is is that there are no drills or slots, the material is icing on the cake.
06-02-2008, 07:10 PM
#24
Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 58
Did not read all reply but adding my own thoughts.
Check rotors closely and if you find like black spots or circular black marks on rotors, you better change either pads or rotors. I would suggest both.
The reason for this is your rotor metal material and your pad material does not like eachother at all. Those black spots are due to high heat build-up during everyday bracking cause your pads to slip away at those spots and grab at normal rotor surface cause uneven breaking on rotor creates pulsation and vibration during breaking. You can feel that straight on steering wheel and on break padal.
Rotor does not warp if thats what general word people use. What actually happen is uneven deposit of pad material on rotor cause pads not to grab rotor evenly all around cause pulsation or vibration. Pads deposits on rotor is like not so easy to remove with send paper unless you resurface them in shop for $10 to $20
Check rotors closely and if you find like black spots or circular black marks on rotors, you better change either pads or rotors. I would suggest both.
The reason for this is your rotor metal material and your pad material does not like eachother at all. Those black spots are due to high heat build-up during everyday bracking cause your pads to slip away at those spots and grab at normal rotor surface cause uneven breaking on rotor creates pulsation and vibration during breaking. You can feel that straight on steering wheel and on break padal.
Rotor does not warp if thats what general word people use. What actually happen is uneven deposit of pad material on rotor cause pads not to grab rotor evenly all around cause pulsation or vibration. Pads deposits on rotor is like not so easy to remove with send paper unless you resurface them in shop for $10 to $20
06-02-2008, 07:33 PM
#25
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: kalamazoo, MI
Posts: 70
I have a question about th rotorpros driled/slotted+EBC red stuff. I recently changed my oem rotors and pads with the aforementioned rotors/pads. I got the install done at the dealer. The brakes have performed rather well since then. More recently I have been hearing fast clicking noise in the rear passenger wheel when I brake. It is like sticking a piece of paper against the spokes of a spinning wheel.Very rapid and high frequency. WHat could be causing this? It drove like a dream for the first week. For the last 2-3 days it seems to be puling hard and there is a rough feel to the accelerator and brake pedal. The brakes are strong and quick stopping. Produce minimal dust and minimal noise. But the ride quality has deteriorated a little bit. I was inspecting the brakes and they look ok. Is it normal for the front brake pads to be ooposed to the rotors while the car is stationary. I mean are they suposed to be that close, like they wold rub against the rotor surface while the car is rolling and the brake is not applied? Would this be contributing to the pulling hard and the rough feeling of the ride and the brake/accelerator pedal? Any input will be appreciated. Also I have been having shimmy issues since I changed my tires. On my previous set of tires, I had no problems at all. The shimmy has gotten worse after the rotor/pad change. I can actually feel a constant vibratory senstaion in the steering wheel. Lemme know what you guys think. thanx
06-03-2008, 03:51 AM
#26
Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 58
I have a question about th rotorpros driled/slotted+EBC red stuff. I recently changed my oem rotors and pads with the aforementioned rotors/pads. I got the install done at the dealer. The brakes have performed rather well since then. More recently I have been hearing fast clicking noise in the rear passenger wheel when I brake. It is like sticking a piece of paper against the spokes of a spinning wheel.Very rapid and high frequency. WHat could be causing this? It drove like a dream for the first week. For the last 2-3 days it seems to be puling hard and there is a rough feel to the accelerator and brake pedal. The brakes are strong and quick stopping. Produce minimal dust and minimal noise. But the ride quality has deteriorated a little bit. I was inspecting the brakes and they look ok. Is it normal for the front brake pads to be ooposed to the rotors while the car is stationary. I mean are they suposed to be that close, like they wold rub against the rotor surface while the car is rolling and the brake is not applied? Would this be contributing to the pulling hard and the rough feeling of the ride and the brake/accelerator pedal? Any input will be appreciated. Also I have been having shimmy issues since I changed my tires. On my previous set of tires, I had no problems at all. The shimmy has gotten worse after the rotor/pad change. I can actually feel a constant vibratory senstaion in the steering wheel. Lemme know what you guys think. thanx
06-03-2008, 07:33 AM
#28
Did not read all reply but adding my own thoughts.
Rotor does not warp if thats what general word people use. What actually happen is uneven deposit of pad material on rotor cause pads not to grab rotor evenly all around cause pulsation or vibration. Pads deposits on rotor is like not so easy to remove with send paper unless you resurface them in shop for $10 to $20
Rotor does not warp if thats what general word people use. What actually happen is uneven deposit of pad material on rotor cause pads not to grab rotor evenly all around cause pulsation or vibration. Pads deposits on rotor is like not so easy to remove with send paper unless you resurface them in shop for $10 to $20
06-03-2008, 07:43 AM
#29
Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 187
I have Rotorpros Slotted & Drilled and Hawk HPS pads. They've been installed on my car for about a month now.
Honestly, I think the OEM brakes were better. The RP's and Hawks are noisy and my OEM's seemed to have had better stopping power than these...maybe it's a figment of my imagination, but I'm going to go blank Brembo's and sell the Rotopros.
Honestly, I think the OEM brakes were better. The RP's and Hawks are noisy and my OEM's seemed to have had better stopping power than these...maybe it's a figment of my imagination, but I'm going to go blank Brembo's and sell the Rotopros.
06-03-2008, 04:00 PM
#32
Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 58
I have Rotorpros Slotted & Drilled and Hawk HPS pads. They've been installed on my car for about a month now.
Honestly, I think the OEM brakes were better. The RP's and Hawks are noisy and my OEM's seemed to have had better stopping power than these...maybe it's a figment of my imagination, but I'm going to go blank Brembo's and sell the Rotopros.
Honestly, I think the OEM brakes were better. The RP's and Hawks are noisy and my OEM's seemed to have had better stopping power than these...maybe it's a figment of my imagination, but I'm going to go blank Brembo's and sell the Rotopros.
You must understand that bed-in procedure while replacing new rotors + pads is a MUST. If you fail to do this, you will end-up with vibration and grinding noise and you will freak yourself out.
Also I learned reading online that 04 maxima has either left or right rear bearing/hub issue. This will makes noise like card in spokes when breaks are not applied and noise pulse will change with the speed. Applying breaks will dampen this noise but then you will hear squeal noise in low speed breaking.
Just my 2c...please ignore my english, spelling, and grammar....just trying to help here.
Last edited by saraara; 06-03-2008 at 04:06 PM.
06-05-2008, 10:08 AM
#33
06-05-2008, 10:11 AM
#34
Believe me or not, try posi quiet semi-metalic with rotorpros slotted rotors next time and you will be pleased you made that choise. I had first powerslots + hawk and second rotorpros + hawk set-up and both combination made biatch noise and squeal. I instantly realized this gotta be a hawk that only like softy rotor material. I then change rotorpros slotted + posi-quiet and damn what a quiet breaks.
You must understand that bed-in procedure while replacing new rotors + pads is a MUST. If you fail to do this, you will end-up with vibration and grinding noise and you will freak yourself out.
Also I learned reading online that 04 maxima has either left or right rear bearing/hub issue. This will makes noise like card in spokes when breaks are not applied and noise pulse will change with the speed. Applying breaks will dampen this noise but then you will hear squeal noise in low speed breaking.
Just my 2c...please ignore my english, spelling, and grammar....just trying to help here.
You must understand that bed-in procedure while replacing new rotors + pads is a MUST. If you fail to do this, you will end-up with vibration and grinding noise and you will freak yourself out.
Also I learned reading online that 04 maxima has either left or right rear bearing/hub issue. This will makes noise like card in spokes when breaks are not applied and noise pulse will change with the speed. Applying breaks will dampen this noise but then you will hear squeal noise in low speed breaking.
Just my 2c...please ignore my english, spelling, and grammar....just trying to help here.
I have rotorpros drilled and slotted rotors with Hawk pads on Wilwood calipers, next set of pads will be from wilwood (street #10 if i remember correctly) as my brother has zero noise from his setup.
06-06-2008, 03:22 AM
#37
06-07-2008, 09:36 AM
#40
this is a known problem at my dealership. I am constantly either resurfacing or replacing rotors on Maximas. Nothing new. I have done mine 3x on the front, then replaced under warranty, and the new rotors 1x. Nissan should use a different material and vent them a bit better.