po8pimp

not here, it's been 7 years since mine was fixed..

smplyamzng

Wow thats good to know. Had mine done in Sep and since last week been hearing a rattle coming from the same location. Not sure if thats what it is again but bringing it back to where it was fixed on sunday to investigate.

vkpapx

Just replaced the main chain tensioner on my 04, rattling took longer to quiet down. We found a few pcs of it in the oil pan. Purrs like a kitten now. BUT, got a cycinder misfire code, FTH, 160k on it, still had org. power steering belt. Only changed the main chain the guide and the broken tensoiner, and water pump, everything else looked great. Back to the garage...;(

4DRZ

iTrader: (4)

You sure all else was ok? When I did mine on my 2006 Altima SER I thought the samething, but something told me to look at the secondary tensioners. Sure enough, one of them was worn almost all the way thru. I thought I had to replace both of the secondary tensioners, but foud a part number for just the tensioner shoes. Snap off the old ones and replace with the new ones....about $5.00/each vs. $60.00/each for new tensioners. While I was in there I also replaced the water pump, both secondaries chains, the upper guie at the top, the chainslack guide, and the small chain guide on the front part near the alt/water pump.

Kryogen

how hard is it to remove the engine?
Can this be done with the engine still in the car by a diy mechanic?

Penguinchit

Removing the engine isn't terribly hard, it's just time consuming. More wire harnesses than anything.

I've done it both ways; in the car and dropping the subframe with engine and tranny attached.

It's quicker to leave the engine in place, but hard to get to things and to verify timing accuracy. With the engine out, there's a straight view of all timing marks and you can see more of what's going on.

I prefer the engine out method, which I'll probably be doing again.

refuse2bstopped

Okay, so I just purchased a 2005 maxima (as is no warranty) and immediately took it to Nissan a week later for an oil change (figuring they will point out any potential major concerns). So OF COURSE they mentioned a whining noise (which I can barely hear as of now) but there is also a rattling of a chain usually after I've driven, then parked for maybe 30 mins to an hour and then crank it again. First thing in the morning it never rattles (which I'd think it would do on a cold crank), but only after I've driven then parked for about an hour or so and then re-crank (like maybe driving to the gym). It goes away after about a minute.

My question is, I obviously don't have the funds to get this replaced, but can save it up within 6 weeks to 8 weeks. I would like anyone who's had this issue, does it sound like I'm at the "extreme GET IT DONE NOW (even though you have no money to do it) OR ELSE!!!" point? Or does it seem based on what I've described that my car will likely last the 6 to 8 weeks that I'm saving up for the parts and labor? It would be quicker if I was f/t but I'm only p/t. Anyway.... what do you guys think?

po8pimp

Sounds like you will be fine. Did Nissan say you needed to get it fixed? The whining is not from the timing chain. Did you hear the noise from the chain before they did the oil change? Did it increase or decrease after the oil change? The whining can be many things, did they tell you what it was coming from? For this post, you should probably have waited and started your own thread. I see that you are at 4 posts so you can't start a thread yet. It is not polite to thread jack. At least you kept on topic so might not be too much of an issue. Ohh welcome to the Org. :P

refuse2bstopped

Thanks for the forum rules info. Didn't know. lol But the whining noise is faint as in you have to really be listening to hear it, so it's not as bad as others have been where you can just hear it, even on a cold crank, it's faint. As far as the rattling, I only notice it if I drive it maybe 20 minutes or so, park it for about 45 mins to an hour than crank/drive it again. It lasts for maybe a minute, and only does it in that scenario, so even in the morning on first crank the rattle is not there. But I know it's coming from the timing chain area.

I'm already planning to just get all the chains, guides and tensioners changed within the next 6 to 8 weeks. While there in there I figured I might as well, this will ensure if the boot issue from that tensioner is the issue it is resolved as well as any damaged or worn chains from possibly rubbing against guides or tensioner with worn boots. So the primary and both secondaries is what I plan to change along with the guides, tensioners etc.

po8pimp

All I can say is don't expect the rattling to go completely away. These cars do it even if the tensioners are tightened/replaced. Mine has done it since the car was bought. It was bad at one point and they replaced the tensioners. After that it has been there but not too bad. I changed my oil to a higher viscous oil which definitely helps. I use 15w50 mobile 1 synthetic. I have been for many years now with no issues, knock on wood.

refuse2bstopped

The thing is I was also told that all motor mounts need to be changed. When I drive I literally feel it vibrate (only during exceleration) and it drives me crazy and the mechanic said it will mess up my CV joints and that because the chain doesn't seem bad enough (based on how it sounds after leaving it with him for a day) that he recommends getting the mounts done asap then doing the chain after. My problem is I don't expect him replace the engine for me for free JUST because his advise didn't work out if somehow the chains do fail. But I feel that he's probably right considering I rarely hear the chains anyway.

po8pimp

Maxima Timing Chain

This is the timing chain noise from a bad tensioner.

4DRZ

iTrader: (4)

Its not the tensioners that go bad....its the guides. They wear down by the chain cutting into them. The guides, the upper and the chain slack guide, should be replaced. The secondary tenioners only need to have the old tentioner shoe removed and replaced with the new one. Same for the small guide that is just above the water pump. Only the main tensioner that presses on the chain slack guide, should be replaced. I can almost do this repair in my sleep, and I did it in the car. Replacing the secondary tensioners requires removing both valve covers, which is not necessary even to perform this repair. I did NOT remove my valve covers at all...didnt need to. I did remove the upper oil pan and y-pipe because I replaced a failing oil pump that was making all sorts of noise with a RevUp oil pump, new ps pump, water pump, oil pressure switch, lightened crank pulley etc. Learned all sorts of safe, productive short cuts.

flyanbrian

The guys who have done this, what parts did you replace other than the tensioner and that guide? are there any seals that are broken during the cover removal and what do you put on the cover when you put it back on? Im debating on doing this myself vs a shop. I took care of the transmission fix myself although this does look a little bit more challenging.

4DRZ

iTrader: (4)

Its not that its more challenging, its just more to take off within a tighter space if you choose to do this with the engine in the car You need to down load and save to FSM. You should replace all the seals. There are 2 rubber O ring seals that need to be replaced in the timing cover, 2 collared seals for the VTC covers, and if you are doing the oil pump, there are to larger O rings that go between the block and the upper oil pan that should be replaced. (1 of them is fits on the oil pump) RTV is what is needed to reseal most covers on a Nissan. Permatex Grey RTV is what you need. I would also recommend a die and tap set so that you can chase all of the bolt holes to remove all traces of the old RTV. I did this so that I could accurately TQ the bolts when reinstalling the covers. Should also remove all the old RTV from any bolts that may have some on them. The front timing cover also has a seal that needs to be replaced...the crankshaft seal that is behind the crank pulley. I think that is about it. oh, IF you choose to replace the whole tensioner as an assemby rather than just the tensioner shoe, they each have a small rubber O ring that must be replaced. Again, the FSM will explain and show in good detail all that I have tried to remember.

george__

iTrader: (1)

Labor intensive as f8k.

If you are going to get a shop to do this, consider a new engine

4DRZ

iTrader: (4)

A new engine is about 7K.....if your talking a new USED engine....I would rather do the repair to my own engine than buy one used that may still need to have this done. You are right though...it is very labor intense BUT you learn a TON about this car. Makes doing ANYTHING to your car soooo much more elementary.

george__

iTrader: (1)

No doubt but if this is his DD I don't think it's worth it

Get the used engine and replace all the parts possible and call it a day. It'll last him probably the ownership of the car

4DRZ

iTrader: (4)

Yeah but he doesnt need a new engine. I was staying he should just do the repairs to the engine already in his car. (maybe I misunderstood. Does he need a new used engine?).

flyanbrian

No I don't need a new engine, just trying to get a list together of parts to order other than the tensioner and that guide. I knew there were some o rings and seals just trying to figure out which ones. I've watched a few youtubes on this and mine just started the ticking the other day and I haven't driven it since I first heard it. I know the tensioner is p/n/ 13070 and need to look up the guide, just wondered if anyone had a parts list and the numbers

4DRZ

iTrader: (4)

(1) 13085-7Y010 (Chain Guide)
(1) 21049-ZL80C (O-Ring)
(2) 21049-ZL80B (O-Ring)
(1) 13070-7Y000 (Tensioner)
(1) 13091-ZK00A (Chain Guide)
(1) 13085-7Y000 (Chain Guide)
(2) 13028-ZK01C (Secondary Chains)
(1) 11121-7Y000 (Oil Pan Gasket)
(1) 11121-7Y010 (Oil Pan Gasket)
(2) 15066-ZL80A ( Front Timing Cove O Ring)

Mrbizness1

Been hearing a high pitched noise. Had Nissan dealer check it. The noise is from the timing chains. The car has 73k, I bought it in 2009 with 25k. Always maintained. Dealer wants $1800.00. My family has been driving Nissan's for years. I have the 07, daughter has 2012 Max, wife a 09 Murano. The 3.5 motor was supposed to be bullet proof. It seems like they have known about this for a while. This should not happen at this miles.

http://gotaclassaction.com/company/n...north-america/

po8pimp

Definitely agree, however had mine done at like 40k miles. Frustrating for sure.

Mrbizness1

40k and you paid for it?

po8pimp

No warranty covered it

madmax08

Do you still have the OEM parts list for the timing chain replacement, including seals and rings,

MyMaxx22

This really pisses me off! A problem that cheap*** nissan knew what would happen with the timing chain and guides. But no... they let us foot the bill of something that they invented cheap and *****! I mean you would think this would be a class action lawsuit against nissan. I will never buy another Nissan, don't get me wrong I love the maxima but nissan are the modern day gangster's. Everyone I know who owns a maxima has all the mishaps that the maxima has.

They really screwed up with the 6 and the 6.5gens

mplinsme

Hey guys, sorry to hijack this thread but it seems to be the place with the best info about my issue.

Anyway, I have an '07 Maxima that on Monday just quit on me. For several weeks, I was noticing that I was getting a low oil pressure light on hard braking or in turns. I have been using Mobil 1 synthetic since I got the vehicle in 2012 with ~80K miles on it. When I got it, they had just replaced all of the timing chain components. I have since put about 90 k miles on it. When I checked the oil level, it seemed like maybe a 1/2 quart low, so I added the right amount. A few weeks later, same problem. No oil leaks were apparent, as the ground under it was always clean. In addition, the heater would start to blow cold air when stopped at a light.

Last Friday, I noticed a very loud rattle from the motor on startup. On Monday, while driving to work (total on-way of 82 miles) I noticed that the motor was running terribly and the gas mileage was horrible (12 mpg on the highway). As I was starting to get concerned and ready to pull off the road, the car started running REALLY rough and had no power, so I pulled in to a parking lot. I turned off the motor, and let it sit for some time. I then tried to turn it over, and the starter engaged, but the motor did not fire.

I suspect that it jumped time once, and then most likely jumped again. What I need to know is if it is worthwhile to open it up and replace the timing chain and components or if jumping time has ruined the motor? Would there be any valve damage or is it Non-interfering? Thanks for any feedback on this.

pac_4_ever

Well my 06 Maxima had this done at 275,000KM. Got it repaired by a Nissan tech who does work on the side from home. The tensioner and chain and everything was fine itself, it was the guides/shoes that had worn out (which is actually the more common problem from what he told me, the newer guides come with a more durable material/plastic), and in one case was broken completely. He repaired it all for $800 parts (from the dealer) and labor included. Vehicle is now 300,000KM+ and is fine, no rattling anymore.

rafal756

Hey guys, I too have suffered with the dreaded knocking for almost 2 years now and have decided to finally do something about it. Im going to try to do the repairs with the engine inside the car and im wondering if one of these Ebay sets are good to use?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fit-04-08-Nissan-Maxima-Quest-Altima-3-5L-Timing-Chain-Oil-Water-Pump-Kit-VQ35DE-/301091293656?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2004%7CModel%3AMaxima&hash=item461a7089d8&vxp=mtr

Mrbizness1

You might not need all the extra stuff. Why don't yo open it up first.

4DRZ

iTrader: (4)

I wouldnt buy something this important from ebay, but imho he will need all that stuff. Opening this up is difficult enough, why not replace everything with new parts while its already open?

pac_4_ever

if you are opening it up, replace everything while you are in there. wouldn't make sense to save $100 only to open the whole thing back up 6 months down the road. replace everything you can while you are in there.

max2006max

My 2006 Maxima is having the clicking noise in the engine too. I went to the dealership and they recommended having the timing chain replaced for $1,850. After researching this repair the parts are not that expensive but since they engine has to be removed from the car the labor expense makes up most the cost. So, if I proceed with the repair I would just have all the parts replaced to avoid another high labor expense.

I also noted a class action lawsuit in regards to this problem. Does anyone know the status of the lawsuit and if the owners of the Maximas win the case will they likely be reimbursed for repair worked that has been completed or if the work has not been completed will there be a recall to fix the problem?

Please advise on my logic in the first paragraph also.

Mrbizness1

there are YouTube videos showing it done without removing the motor

Kiron Kid

I don't know about the timing chain breaking. But when I turned off my engine, my belt jumped, and wiped out my engine in doing so.

Maxac02

to my ears I'm having the same problem, a whistling,screeching noise at first, only when car was warming up. now lasts lil longer since i put belt dressing on it today after work, noise lasted all the way home till i turned it off. from reading ALL the posts here the worst it can be is the tensioner am i right?? i was also looking online before this forum page i was thinking it was jus the belt that may be worn out or cracked. what is ur input??

Mrbizness1

Belt dressing is a waste, if you can, put car on lift and remove a belt and listen for the noise.

Bohica230

Hello, I thought I read that you have done timing set installs. In your own opinion, is it better to pull the engine or do it while still in the car? I have to swap a motor mount too (front). I perform most of my own mechanic work but I have never done a job this big. Any help will be much appreciated.

SpeedCrazie

iTrader: (81)

Does anyone have a complete part numbers list of what should be replaced?