1. PRODUCT: Eibach Suspension Springs Pro Kit 6369.140 with 2.0" drop in front & 0.8" drop in rear
2. REAR END: 20-30 minutes
3. Tools needed: Air rachet or air gun, 18mm socket 3/4" open wrench & adjustable floor jack
4. These instructions are bases on having a hydraulic lift
5. Loosen lug nuts
6. Raise car
7. Take tires off
8. Place adjustable floor jack just under the lower control arm to where it rests with just a little pressure to keep it inplace
9. Remove nut & bolt
10. Lower floor jack until completely out of the way (The spring will NOT shoot out as you lower jack)
11. Push down on lower control arm & remove the OE spring
12. Use the OE "lower" bushing with new Eibach spring
13. Install new spring with lower OE bushing ensuring you line up the bottom of the spring with the 'stop' in the lower control arm.
14. Raise arm back into place
15. Put nut & bolt back in place
16. Once back in place & secured, remove floor jack & proceed to other side.

1. FRONT END: 2-3 hours depending on experience
2. TOOLS NEEDED: Air ratchet or air gun, 17mm socket, 3/4" open wrench
3. You have 2 bolts that hold the brake in, 1 bolt for your upper control arm, your brake hose 'clip' & 2 small rubber grommets

 

4. Remove all of these parts (bolts, nuts, grommets, etc)



5. Then go into the engine bay & remove the 3 bolts (14mm I think) that hold your strut in place. If you have a FSTB, you'll have to remove this also. Do one side at a time!

6. Remember how your strut arm looks when you pull it out. It's best to mark each item with a straight line using a permanent marker as shown below after you remove it.

 

7. Now take it to the spring compressor & compress the spring.

8. Tighten the spring down in the compressor, unbolt the top bolt & remove everything.
9. Be sure you install the new bushing and dust cover before you compress the spring back together.

10. Line up the new springs in the coil & compress it just enough to place the bolt back on.
Before:

After:

 

11. Before front drop: 29"

12. After front drop: 27"

13. Before rear drop: 27 5/8"

14. After rear drop: 27"

 

BEFORE:

AFTER:

 

Damn nice work, looks good!

 

very nice, thanks for the write up. I'd like to drop mine as well.

 

Excellent writeup!! This is a very easy job.I think I did the whole car in less than 2 hrs.

I do have a question though.I have the same Eibachs and after I got it all put back together I have this "clunking" noise mainly from the passenger side.Have you experienced any noises? Does anyone have any idea what would cause this? I took it to a mechanic friend and he looked at it and didnt see anything wrong.I thought I was very careful taking it apart,I guess I forgot something.

 

Thanks for the compliments so far. It cost me $240.60 shipped, $18 for the use of a lift at the Auto Hobby shop on base, & $38.15 for a front alignment immediately aftewards (rear was fine).

Total of this project: $296.75

 

Haven't noticed it yet, but it could be 1 of 2 things. 1) Your endlinks (aftermarket or OE) could be clicking as you turn or 2) your springs aren't 'set' in the right place (end of spring against the 'stop' of the top 'plate') I'll have to keep my ears open now. If it's not one of those things, you might have to put it up on a dyno wheel and drive it while someone listens to more accurately pinpoint the sound. Good luck and keep us posted.

 

Nice..Although how is the ride on stock struts and shocks? Isn't it easy to blow a strut by doing this?

 

Not sure what you mean? The stock shock would still be able to recoil/rebound it just won't travel as much. As far as the strut would goes, how would this 'blow'? Anybody else lowered have any problems with just lowered springs & stock strut/shock?? Any fix?

 

I just heard that dropping on the stock ones is a bad idea..I'm not an expert or nothing, but just what I've been told..A few people did it, hit a pothole, and blew a strut..

 

When I did my eibach springs on my Maxi... My mechanic told me it's highly recommended to go with good quality aftermarket shocks/struts. I went to KYB GR-2's... did all the work at the same time. According to his explanation... stock shocks and struts are made to handle the pressure and weight of stock height (they're not for performance, except in sports cars i.e. 350z's, etc)... once you lower the car on stocks... it's like putting more weight on them. Not sure if it's 100% true... but even few other mechanic friends I know told me to change the shocks/struts and NOT lower it on stocks when I install my eibachs.

I guess it depends on driving habits... if you're a crazy driver... change the shocks/struts... if you're a careful driver... then stay with stocks until they blow.

 

As per other threads on this issue 99% of the time the spring was not installed correctly. There shound be a sticky on this.

I have Eibachs on my ride for over 2 years and I live in Brooklyn, NY where the streets are messed up and I have not blown a OEM strut. I have 94,000 miles on the car and do a lot of traveling.

 

Can you please shed a little more light on this please??

Before I took it to the mechanic I took it apart twice and I dont see whats going on. How can the spring be installed improperly?What am I supposed to be looking for?

The noise drives me crazy and Id love to figure this out.

 

When you get an answer please advise me. Same issue.

 

1) Lift passenger side of car.... wheel of the ground high, maybe even higher.
2) Look at spring.
3) When spring is found, rotate the spring apprixmately half an inch away from the spring perch.
4) Lower car.

Noise gone.

 

i did all 4 corners on mine in 1.5 hours lol. (i have keys to properly equipped 5 bay shop though) i have the same eibach kit too i love it i think teh drop is perfect, not too low but still noticable. they settle a bit too when ur done. the only thig i noticed after mine that i didnt like was my sway bar bushings are groaning when i compress teh suspension alot like big dips in the road or parking lot to road transitions

 

Really,its that easy??

 

Yes its that easy. Try it out and let us know if it worked.

 

Do you have a link for the KYB GR-2's. How much? I don't drive it all crazy & irradic however I do get on it occassionally and take corners. Just me, no system in the rear, more so a suttle family car with some aftermarket upgrades & some speed if I need it ya know. How will the front struts work with Racingline Performance V2 front end links?

 

this kit with 20" rimz would fit good right? think there would be any rubbing w/ the front tires? nice write up

 

20's are perfect.Just make sure you use a 35 series tire.I had some 40's on the back and they rubbed bigtime!!

 

Just a follow up. I am going to post this here also < http://forums.maxima.org/group-deals...t-lb-gain.html >

I believe the knock might be also coming from not the springs being installed wrong, but with the hood knocking against the FSTB (if installed to include the NWP LIM/UIM kit). I noticed on my hood that I am starting to rub the paint away (small areas equal on both sides) but again just food for thought.

 

Great write up man.Drop looks sickk....

 

KYBGR2 strut/shock set are these good shocks/struts ...pros / cons ?

 

I have an 08 max which was dropped on tein s-tech springs.. Im looking for camber kits cause its eating away at the inner wall of my tires.. anyone have a link..?

--08 Maxtacy

 

sweet~! that looks good
i'm actually lowering mine in 2 weeks. i can't wait~!

 

Extremely Nice Write Up and she is looking awesome!!

 

nice pics looks like you know what your doing!

 

Hi Everyone,

I have Eibachs on KYB GR2's up here in Montreal on aftermarket 18" 245/45/18 VR rated Riken Raptors (Michelin second line...as good as the first line IMHO) and I recently had to change (under warranty) my right front shock (passenger side) due to a defective shock valve...and I even installed the rubber hose over the top two coils of the springs. The car's suspension is now dead quiet over even the worst pavement and everyone knows Quebec has some of the worst around! In fact just had it done yesterday and it took only one hour for my friend to install it...he is a mechanic and does some moonlighting from his home garage....

Overall I would have to say the ride is smooth, balanced, quiet and amazing. I also noticed that the Maxima is very sensitive to even slightly unbalanced wheels. My stealership has a road force computer tire/wheel balancing machine and this is the only thing that works. Also I could have gone with 19" and 245/40's however our roads are too rough and I like my spine....LOL!

 

i have to take mine to a shop to get done...how much would a shop charge to drop the vehicle and add camber kitsand an alignment? i am trying to find out if i am getting overcharged i probably am but i want to know for sure..and research other options...

 

ive got a 07 and had my springs and shocks replaced w/ the eibachs and kyb gr2 and the fwd pass strut blew the very next day! (going down the highway it sounded like i was draging my greedy pipes) the suspension parts were installed by the stealership here-that first 20 miles though were freakin sweet- anyway the auto parts store here is hooking me up w/a new strut, so thats cool i guess-i dont have a clue about kyb gr2's, so i hope they last -(newly converted truck guy)

 

So there is no other struts or shocks other than KYB I need something that can handle these messed up roads with potholes etc etc...nothing else out there how about coil overs i guess not for the rear or ???

 

So you bought the Eibach lowring kit and used the KYB GR-2 strut?

Also, the popping noise is still there. Seems like when I accelerate, it 'pops' or when I turn it 'pops'. I have installed V2 front end links from Racingline Performance (turned all the way down, no thread showing), Eibach lowering springs, NWP Phenolic LIM/UIM kit, and a FSTB from Racingline Performance. As previously stated before, the FSTB seems to rub against the bottom of the hood. Acceleration causes the engine to move back a bit, but not the FSTB which is connected to both shocks/struts. I emailed Energy Suspension and asked if they had a comparison front bumpstop but they said no. Any suggestions guys? This 'popping' is really getting annoying and I am not sure what direction to take.

 

First off, Your are not supposed to rotate the spring itself...(except that 1/2 inch that Kamski mentioned...from the looks of your spring you rotated much more than you should have...You match the spring with the pad on top...you're supposed to rotate the pad on top to match the spring straight in to the shock and spring wheel well. Try and see if that helps.

 

I have been having the same noise issues since I received my replacement springs...I had a broken spring about 1 month ago and had the dealeship replace all the top rubber and hardware....to no avail...The mechanic there noticed that the spring is not the same diameter as the stock ones...I'm thinking that maybe all of us here have an issue with Eibach....that the springs manufactured since 08 are wrong....I looked underneath with the wheel turned outside I noticed that the coils are rubbing near the top....if so then the springs are improperly rated and the noises we're hearing are the individual coils rubbing together near the top. If so Eibach better figure something out fast....cause we all did everything by the book here....except some of you may have over rotated the spring to match the indents in the top pad....it's the pad that needs to be rotated. Since so many here are having the same issue, I am inclined to believe that this is a manfacturing flaw...that either an engineer or the fab screwed up a new batch of springs. I need everyone here that has new springs that are having noises in the front end to chime in so that we can collectivley contact Eibach with this issue.

Once again: I rotated the left wheel as far left as possible and was able to see all the way up the suspension well and I believe that I see the coils near the top rubbing together as if they are too compressed. If necessary, I can take a picture and post it here.

 

Can someone tell me if lowering helps or hinders the car in regards to bottoming out. I currently have a '04 with 72000 miles on it and if I load 2 adults in the rear seats it's not uncommon for me to bottom out in certain situations. Would a set of lowering springs make it worse? I'm thinking that my stock springs are getting tired and that is the cause of my bottoming out.

 

You should change all 4 springs to lowering springs or new springs depending on your ride preference....It's not so much your springs as you shocks...your shocks seem to be worn out. I would go with firmer shocks such as KYB GR2's all around.