Rattling Noise solved
08-01-2009, 01:01 AM
#1
Rattling Noise solved
Hi friends and fellow orgs. As some of you know, My 05 se is lowered with Eibach Prokit 1 and I have KYB GR2's. Back at the end of April I fell in to a pot hole and my left spring actually broke! At the time, my car had been lowered for 3 years. I am using a lighter aloy wheel although it's still 18 inch and 8 inches wide. The tires are like stock: 245/45/18 and ZR rated. The car was very quiet over small bumps, cracks and uneven pavement until that fatefull day. Since then Eibach stood by their product and replaced my springs with a new set. I also had the dealership replace the right shock and both top bearing plates. The shock was also replaced under KYB's warranty. The car was still making noises in the front end so both tie rods were replaced along with the left shock and the front stabilizer bar...
BTW - Earlier on this year I also had a defective transmission replaced too. So we checked that all the bolts (4) were tight on the sub-frame. Still the car was making noise. I just got the car back from the dealship 2 weeks ago for the oil change, the left shock replacement, and the stabilizer bar replacement along with a tire rotation and new front aftermarket cadmium plated cross-drilled and vented rotors plus new Hawk brake pads. Two weeks later and there was a still a rattle from the front end that was getting worse by the day! So I took the car to a very competant independant garage luckily close to home today.
What we found out will suprise and scare the heck out of all of you:
1. The left tie rod was loose. This is connected to the rack and pinion steering assembly..which it turns out is what is causing all the noise in my car. The noise is also heard when you turn the stearing wheel. Sort of like a clunk clunk sound almost like plucking the lowest note on an upright bass...
Thankfully I have an extended warranty and it covers the cost of replacing the rack and pinion steering assembly which could cost in excess of $1200!
2. Dealership: the mechanic used a torch to help heat and loosen the bolts holding the stabilizer bar. The garage also noticed that the mechanic at the dealership was too agressive with the torch and had melted off a small chunck of the stabilizer bars' bracket where it bolts on to the front assembly! So the Stabilizer bar is being held on with only half of the metal bracket! This is very dangerous because if the bolt that holds it fails the stabilizer bar could end up damaging the underside of the car or worse.....
3. The stabilizer bars' bushings were not lubricated so they were squeeking.
4. The transmission fluid is bleeding or sweating at the cooler/elbow.
And just to set the record straight, the car was in the shop just two weeks ago undergoing work. How is it the mechanic did not replace the stabilizer bar that he damaged? How did the mechanic not see the transmission oil leak which was very obvious. How did the dealship not notice the loose tie rod.
Monday my car goes in for the repaires and i promise to keep you all posted.
Cheers!
BTW - Earlier on this year I also had a defective transmission replaced too. So we checked that all the bolts (4) were tight on the sub-frame. Still the car was making noise. I just got the car back from the dealship 2 weeks ago for the oil change, the left shock replacement, and the stabilizer bar replacement along with a tire rotation and new front aftermarket cadmium plated cross-drilled and vented rotors plus new Hawk brake pads. Two weeks later and there was a still a rattle from the front end that was getting worse by the day! So I took the car to a very competant independant garage luckily close to home today.
What we found out will suprise and scare the heck out of all of you:
1. The left tie rod was loose. This is connected to the rack and pinion steering assembly..which it turns out is what is causing all the noise in my car. The noise is also heard when you turn the stearing wheel. Sort of like a clunk clunk sound almost like plucking the lowest note on an upright bass...
Thankfully I have an extended warranty and it covers the cost of replacing the rack and pinion steering assembly which could cost in excess of $1200!
2. Dealership: the mechanic used a torch to help heat and loosen the bolts holding the stabilizer bar. The garage also noticed that the mechanic at the dealership was too agressive with the torch and had melted off a small chunck of the stabilizer bars' bracket where it bolts on to the front assembly! So the Stabilizer bar is being held on with only half of the metal bracket! This is very dangerous because if the bolt that holds it fails the stabilizer bar could end up damaging the underside of the car or worse.....
3. The stabilizer bars' bushings were not lubricated so they were squeeking.
4. The transmission fluid is bleeding or sweating at the cooler/elbow.
And just to set the record straight, the car was in the shop just two weeks ago undergoing work. How is it the mechanic did not replace the stabilizer bar that he damaged? How did the mechanic not see the transmission oil leak which was very obvious. How did the dealship not notice the loose tie rod.
Monday my car goes in for the repaires and i promise to keep you all posted.
Cheers!
08-01-2009, 05:37 AM
#3
Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Bklyn NY
Posts: 119
when the dealership replaced my transmission my fluid was also leaking from the cooler took it back twice, they changed seals on the cooler and it was still leaking.Finally the third time they just replaced the cooler and now no more leaks.One thing i always do is inspect my car in the area that repairs were perform within a couple days to make sure all is well
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