Hi, does anyone know who can install this kit for me in houston texas or somewhere around houston?

 

My car is having basically the same issues everyone else is having, shifting rough from 1st to 2nd. Delay from shifting to 3rd from 2nd rpms raise to 3grands then engages like if it was in neutral. Im sure i can do this myself with the proper directions and how to, any body has a HOW TO WITH PICS? "MRSTONE"??
what all would have to be removed. My car is a 2005 maxima se 3.5 automatic.

 

You have a PM.

 

Good one.

 

Still looking for answers for my 2010 SV. No acceleration aftrer transmissio heats up during summer. My daughter drove it in Dallas 8/19 around 105 degrees out side temp nearly got her run over. Did the same thing to me a year ago with 6K miles, we have 17K on it now. I took it in to dealership last lear and they told me I wasn't used to the transmission. I also let my so drive it . From a dead stop it acts like it is taking off in 4th gear and you can not jump out in to dallas trafficunless you want to get run over.
All I need is someone to tell me it me or what the problem is.

 

I would take it to the dealer have them test the solenoids to ensure they are ohm-ing correclty. While they have it out have them take the Lock up (TCC) solenoid take the adjuster off, remove the spring and valve. Once its apart, shake it. If it doesnt rattle easily then it needs to be replaced.

I will post a vid of mine that did not rattle. I did not take them all the way part, but i did loosen the adjusters. If you have them take them off then you'll get a better idea if they need to be replaced. It should sound like a loose nut in the solenoid if it is good, I do not have a vid of one that is good tho. Also be sure they use a calipometer to get a measurement of each from the tip of the adjusted to the base of the solenoid. there is one in the link provided.

There is a pretty good photo list here http://ballertown.info/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=44


EDIT: It can also be a cam position sensor. Is it going into limp mode? IE cant shift out of last gear?

 

Here is the vid. I did loosen the adjusters, but if someone else is doing it I'd have them take em off. The first two have no rattle, the third one had a small rattle, but all three had issues. Once cleaned up, they rattle like a champ.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qbjYx...er_profilepage

 

I just had the Transgo kit installed in my 06 here http://www.thewoodlandstransmission.com/ I have driven over 400 miles and it is working flawless and my mpg avg. went from 22 to 28. With the kit fluid and labor it cost $523.54. They charge $140 for the kit. If you bring a kit to them its $383.54 for labor and fluid. Very nice people managers name is David.

 

I would have done it for 325, unless you needed fluid. If you did, just buy it.

 

Ok, this is my first post on here, I recently bought a 2004 Maxima Se 5 speed Automatic with Manual Shift Mode with 101,000 miles on it. I drove 5 hours to purchase the car from a private seller, when I took the car for a test drive it ran great, no problems what so ever. As I was about 45 min into my drive home I noticed a hard shift from 1st to 2nd and a hard shift down from 2nd to 1st. I called the seller and asked if he had been experiencing these problems and of course he told me he had never had any transmission issues before, I have no doubt the transmission shifting had been a problem for the guy and he diddnt feel like investing the time, or money into the car to repair it. The unfortunate part about the problem is that it only acts up after the transmission is warmed up so I was unable to detect the problem until after the purchase was complete and I was many miles down the road. I also noticed I have the shifting delay when going from park to drive, or reverse to drive, I took the car to have any codes pulled and none were found, after reading everyones posts I have no doubt that the valve body is to blame. As for the way to fix the problem I am unsure the route to go, but I feel like I am leaning towards a new valve body from Nissan.

 

I'm inclined to support you concerning the new VB from Nissan. However, have you checked the state of the transmission fluid---red, brown, or black? Or have you flushed or drained/refill the the tranny? If you have, is it still acting up? How long have you had the car? I'd suggest you wait for some code to be thrown up and your SES light comes on. But if this does not happen and the problem slides from bad to worse, you may consider the VB swap option from Nissan.

 

Fluid is red, service records show at 86,000 miles the previous owner had 4 quarts of transmission fluid and 1hour of labor purchases for the car that was 16,000 miles ago. I've had the car for only 2 days and the shifting problem doesn't occur if I accelerate very slowly or decelerately very slowly.

 

Do not replace the VB with a new one for two reasons: its costly and it will fail just like the one that is in the car now. Save yourself some time and money and get the Transgo shift kit installed. The problems you are experiencing is exactly how my car started acting up.

 

I'd say watch it closely. You've only had it two days, if it's that bad your SES light will soon come up. I suspect the problem's only just beginning to come up.

 

Lol. Did you take the time to go through the length of this thread? Three main options have come up for thorough discussion, namely, the Transgo kit, Levelten rebuild, and the new Nissan VB. From what I discerned, the Transgo kit works wonders, but only temporarily. It's the cheapest option, but in the long run never the wisest option.

 

Yes I read all 19 pages, and the transgo kits seem to be difficult for the transmission shops to install correctly, a few people said their transmissions ended up worse, and I figured if the original valve body got the car to 100,000 miles that the newly designed Nissan valve body would last even longer. But I am looking for input from you all who have fixed this issue and what the best way to fix this was, without replacing the entire transmission.
Thanks

 

Oh, you are one of those posters.

OK.

I read about 15 pages of this thread. Normally shops fubar the install of the shift kit and end up rebuilding the transmission (I wonder why???) If installed correctly this will fix the problem. The Levelten rebuild is the best, but not most cost effective. I would rebuild mine three times before considering a levelten rebuild, but I can do this myself and that would probably put my car in the 250K+ miles. I got about 91K before the kit and I would expect to get more than that after the rebuild. I bored out the solenoids so *if* it happens again it will take more build up. Also a good practice is to install a tranny cooler along with the shift kit to keep it running cool. I have done several shift kits to my other cars and they have been running strong for 60K+ miles.

If I paid someone to install the kit I would do the shift kit once, if it goes out again levelten, but never a stock VB. If you are thinking about a stock VB, just do the shift kit.


EDIT: the only thing you have to be careful with is using the right gasket in the VB if you use the non-ventilated one when you need the ventilated gasket....your tranny is going to blow.

 

Well said. I have nothing against the Transgo kit as to disparage it. It's evident you're a pro, and so could handle things well. But only a very few Max owners have your proficiency, and so have to look out for the best means of achieving the desired result. That best option does not usually come the cheapest.

 

Can anyone recommend a shop that can install the transgo system? I live in Daytona beach florida, I am willing to drive to either Jacksonville or Orlando. Thanks

 

Even after the VBX valve body replacement that has Sonnax parts and motor mount replacements and a rebuilt tranny with a new transmission computer, my tranny still slips up frequently. I'm trying to decide if I should bite the bullet and get the Level 10 rebuild or go with the transgo shift kit again. I initially had the shift kit done before the rebuild, it was good for about 4 months. I spoke to an org member who noted that the Transgo shift kit has the overboost valves to take care of the issues that the Sonnax parts don't. I guess I have to weigh the cost of getting the work done. I'd have to factor renting a car for several days while the car is at the shop while the core VB is sent to Level 10 and reinstalled versus the shift kit that would take a couple of hours and probably wouldn't fail anytime soon since the components in the VB and transmission are fairly new. I had a transmission cooler installed originally to see if that would help fix the problem, but I had so much back and forth with the transmission shop that they thought the cooler might have been the cause. However, the culprit was found to be that transmission computer. I say this because I'm hesitant to reconnect the cooler for fear it may void the warranty on the transmission so far. I loved the transgo shift kit. It felt like I did a performance mod on the car.

 

I need help. I have a 95 maxima with a 1106 code. how do i fix this. and the OD off light is stuck on, with the engine light on

 

Wrong section. You should post under the 4th gen maxima forums, not 6th gen. Furthermore, you may want to do a search first to see if your question has already been answered.

 

Which is exactly why I said I'd install it for anyone in the houston area for 325, which is the kit, gaskets, and labor. Completed in one day. That's 1/3 the cost of the levelten and 1/4 the cost of stock.

 

A tranny cooler should not void anything, but they can say it does to avoid fixing it. All it does is keep the tranny running cooler, nothing mechanical.

Was there any metal in the old oil, plug, filter or VB last time?

I'd take it apart, clean it, and verify the solenoids ohm correctly. If they do, check the armature by removing the adjuster, spring and valve. (make sure to measure from the base of the stem to the top of the adjuster before taking it apart) Shake the solenoid, if it rattles then its ok...if not do the kit. The rattle should sound like a nut is lose in the lower body. The rattle in this video was not good enough. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qbjYxL7HnrQ

 

Thanks for the info xxzimmer. However, the Cottmann transmission shop that did the job apparently isn't comfortable doing the shift kits as the manager didn't feel his techs were experienced enough. When I had the transgo shift kit done on the original VB, it was done by another transmission shop. I'm mechanically inclined, but not to the level of something as heavy duty as this. Initially, the shop had though of getting another VBX valvebody as the distributor messed up and gave me an 04 instead of an 05, the difference between them was a spring. Well, the spring was installed in the valve body but erratic shifting still persisted in city driving. I complained, and the shop even had another Cottman branch evaluate, but they couldn't reproduce the problem. I provide all this info to say that I'm going to do the kit or Level 10 either way. The problem is embarrassing enough when driving the car alone; I don't want to be on a date when this happens and I get the "What's wrong with your car?" Also, this shifting can occur even on the first acceleration of the day. It doesn't happen a lot but when it does, it catches one off guard.

 

You've been through so much. I followed your saga in the sticky thread RE5F22A; but I keep wondering whether your fate would have been the same if you had given the oem Nissan VB a chance in all this. I may be wrong, I seem to think that you've spent more (and more spending appears pending) than the cost of installing the oem VB. Rest assured of my best wishes nonetheless.

 

I quite appreciate your humanitarian gesture. But who will be the messiah of those who are hundreds or thousand of miles away from you?

 

Ok so here's my issue: I started noticing my tranny issues about 20k ago..bangs gears when it shifts up from 2nd to third and from 3 to 2, also from drive to reverse..I began starting to drive the car it triptronic mode to ease away from the hard shifting..well in doing that I believe I may have burned out one of the gears. Now when I drive the car and get it up to speed to 4th gear the car automatically shifts into another gear while still reading it's in 4th..not to mention the car has NO power at all..it sounds like the car is really working hard at 60-75mph..I can't even get over 80 without thinking the car might blow up! So overall Im going to start the process of rebuilding the tranny. I had already brought it to a shop months ago and they said the tranny fluid was burnt and that I needed an overhaul done. What options should I go with? I talked to pat at level10 and he suggested to just do the VB rebuild and that it's very rare to have to replace everything in the tranny...any suggestions? I purchased a new torque converter already (used with 40k on it) and I'm thinking of doing the VB and the total rebuild kit from level10 as well just because the shop mentioned that the fluid was burnt..

 

It doesn't take much to remove a VB. All you need is a pan for the oil, a T40, and a 10 mm socket. If someone wanted to ship it to me I'd do it that way too I guess.

I just don't want people to get ripped off by tranny shops.

 

Is your car showing anying codes? Is is going into limp mode, ie staying in last gear?

 

The code that is showing is the P0430 which is the bank 2 cat..I already know this from my emissions and that's why my car crapped out on me on Friday..but no codes as far as the transmission goes. It's not in limp mode - it already had that and it was the camshaft sensor in which I switched out and it was back to normal..I just got off the phone with Pat @ level 10 and he said there is no need to do a complete transmission rebuild as far as the parts inside the tranny go (clutches, o-rings, ect) if I'm not getting any codes for it. He said if the tranny had burned out gears or something else, that it would throw me tranny codes..he said the VB would solve a lot for me and also that if the new headers that I'm puttin in doesn't eliminate the sluggish drive (the no power aka - feels like I'm towing a trailer) feel then I may want to look into getting the torque converter upgraded.

 

As far as the car shifting itself into another gear while I'm in 4th on triptronic - pat said that it's a tranny CPU malfunction because of the VB and the low power I been getting. It won't let the car go beyond a certain point to shift

 

Fix the cats, but your VB does need work. Take your pick of the 3 options available. I wouldnt touch the torque converter unless it was having issues.

 

I wonder how much I'm looking at for the updated OEM valvebody. Does the new OEM valvebody shift flawlessly with no hiccups? That warranty would be the selling point for me.

 

Your interest in the sticky thread was at the moment when the Transgo kit appeared to be the saviour of our tranny problems. You faded off the thread thereafter. I think you should go back to it, reading from late last year and you'd find answers to your questions.

 

I've read the whole thread. It do take this car on autocross sometimes, and tend to do aggressive driving with all the mods I've done. I'm thinking I might go the way of Level 10. I'll call them tomorrow to find out more about sending in the core. Spoke to the transmission shop today and they said the choice of the choice of the Nissan OEM or Level 10 is really up to me.

 

If anyone is interested I have a brand new transgo shift kit for sale.. $80 shipped - $30 off what I paid for it. I decided to go oem VB for my scenario.

GL to all!

 

You "decided to go" or you've gone? Which?

 

Just an update, I had the hard up shift, and hard down shift ( the shift bang). I had a new Nissan valve body installed and it fixed the problem 100%. thanks everyone for the helpful info.

 

Good to know.