Shift Lock Problem_Car will not shift out of Park
#1
Shift Lock Problem_Car will not shift out of Park
I'm having problems with my shifter and it's unable to shift out of park unless I press the Shift Lock button.
Background:
'05 SE A/T
Mods - Timing Advance and Nismo Exhaust
Replaced ECU on 01/09.
I replaced my battery a month ago and when I turned the key to ACC, there was a clicking/grinding noise coming from the passenger dash. The car started up and the noise went away. However, I could not shift into Reverse. All lights were lit on the dash except for the SES light and they would not go off once started. I removed the shift lock tab and pressed the button and was able to shift into Reverse.
Now for me to shift into Reverse or Park, I need to hold the shift lock key down and shift gears. I do not need to hold the button when shifting from Neutral to Drive or from Drive to Neutral, only from Park to Reverse and vice versa. Whenever I turn the key to ACC, the clicking/grinding noise persists. I've read where this may be the Shift Lock Solenoid.
On top of this, now when I turn my car off there is a small whining coming from the engine bay as if something is still running/on. It seems this is draining my battery as I just replaced it again w/i a month. Someone said it may be a bad relay but I have no idea what it could be...maybe when they installed the ECU last year?
Any help is appreciated.
Background:
'05 SE A/T
Mods - Timing Advance and Nismo Exhaust
Replaced ECU on 01/09.
I replaced my battery a month ago and when I turned the key to ACC, there was a clicking/grinding noise coming from the passenger dash. The car started up and the noise went away. However, I could not shift into Reverse. All lights were lit on the dash except for the SES light and they would not go off once started. I removed the shift lock tab and pressed the button and was able to shift into Reverse.
Now for me to shift into Reverse or Park, I need to hold the shift lock key down and shift gears. I do not need to hold the button when shifting from Neutral to Drive or from Drive to Neutral, only from Park to Reverse and vice versa. Whenever I turn the key to ACC, the clicking/grinding noise persists. I've read where this may be the Shift Lock Solenoid.
On top of this, now when I turn my car off there is a small whining coming from the engine bay as if something is still running/on. It seems this is draining my battery as I just replaced it again w/i a month. Someone said it may be a bad relay but I have no idea what it could be...maybe when they installed the ECU last year?
Any help is appreciated.
#2
I'm having problems with my shifter and it's unable to shift out of park unless I press the Shift Lock button.
Background:
'05 SE A/T
Mods - Timing Advance and Nismo Exhaust
Replaced ECU on 01/09.
I replaced my battery a month ago and when I turned the key to ACC, there was a clicking/grinding noise coming from the passenger dash. The car started up and the noise went away. However, I could not shift into Reverse. All lights were lit on the dash except for the SES light and they would not go off once started. I removed the shift lock tab and pressed the button and was able to shift into Reverse.
Now for me to shift into Reverse or Park, I need to hold the shift lock key down and shift gears. I do not need to hold the button when shifting from Neutral to Drive or from Drive to Neutral, only from Park to Reverse and vice versa. Whenever I turn the key to ACC, the clicking/grinding noise persists. I've read where this may be the Shift Lock Solenoid.
On top of this, now when I turn my car off there is a small whining coming from the engine bay as if something is still running/on. It seems this is draining my battery as I just replaced it again w/i a month. Someone said it may be a bad relay but I have no idea what it could be...maybe when they installed the ECU last year?
Any help is appreciated.
Background:
'05 SE A/T
Mods - Timing Advance and Nismo Exhaust
Replaced ECU on 01/09.
I replaced my battery a month ago and when I turned the key to ACC, there was a clicking/grinding noise coming from the passenger dash. The car started up and the noise went away. However, I could not shift into Reverse. All lights were lit on the dash except for the SES light and they would not go off once started. I removed the shift lock tab and pressed the button and was able to shift into Reverse.
Now for me to shift into Reverse or Park, I need to hold the shift lock key down and shift gears. I do not need to hold the button when shifting from Neutral to Drive or from Drive to Neutral, only from Park to Reverse and vice versa. Whenever I turn the key to ACC, the clicking/grinding noise persists. I've read where this may be the Shift Lock Solenoid.
On top of this, now when I turn my car off there is a small whining coming from the engine bay as if something is still running/on. It seems this is draining my battery as I just replaced it again w/i a month. Someone said it may be a bad relay but I have no idea what it could be...maybe when they installed the ECU last year?
Any help is appreciated.
#5
Does your blinker make the blinking noise when on?
Does your car drive normal after you get it into drive with the shift lock?
If your car drives normal after putting it in drive and your blinker doesn't make noise. You probably just experienced the same problem I had which was an easy fix. It's a fuse on the drivers side panel. It's called "Electrical Parts 10A" It's located in the middle on the right side of the fuse box. My problem was I saw it was blown and replaced the new one in the wrong spot. I'm almost 100% sure this is your problem. Let me know
Does your car drive normal after you get it into drive with the shift lock?
If your car drives normal after putting it in drive and your blinker doesn't make noise. You probably just experienced the same problem I had which was an easy fix. It's a fuse on the drivers side panel. It's called "Electrical Parts 10A" It's located in the middle on the right side of the fuse box. My problem was I saw it was blown and replaced the new one in the wrong spot. I'm almost 100% sure this is your problem. Let me know
#6
i just re-read your post describing the problem. I had 100% the same thing happen to me. That noise from the passenger side is a relay. I just unplugged it and replugged it back in and the noise went away. Then I replaced the 10amp fuse as stated in my last post.
Pretty much read my posts here and it'll fix your problem. let me know if i'm right
Pretty much read my posts here and it'll fix your problem. let me know if i'm right
#7
i just re-read your post describing the problem. I had 100% the same thing happen to me. That noise from the passenger side is a relay. I just unplugged it and replugged it back in and the noise went away. Then I replaced the 10amp fuse as stated in my last post.
Pretty much read my posts here and it'll fix your problem. let me know if i'm right
Pretty much read my posts here and it'll fix your problem. let me know if i'm right
#8
i just re-read your post describing the problem. I had 100% the same thing happen to me. That noise from the passenger side is a relay. I just unplugged it and replugged it back in and the noise went away. Then I replaced the 10amp fuse as stated in my last post.
Pretty much read my posts here and it'll fix your problem. let me know if i'm right
Pretty much read my posts here and it'll fix your problem. let me know if i'm right
Forgive my ignorance, but where would I find the relay to unplug? In the glove compartment?
#9
Thanks dpeles!! I was hoping this had nothing to do with my ECU because I'm out of warranty. So hopefully this will work. It's embarrassing having to stick a screw driver right beside my gear shift to back up......
#10
I hope it works out. Let us know how it turns out.
#11
yea i only had to do it for a day but it's madd ghetto lol. The relay is where the carpet meets the bottom right of the glove box. There is some plastic covers your going to have to remove. If my car wasn't in the shop i'd take some pix for you
#12
Okay, so I traced the noise coming from under my passenger's dash to a white and blue relay. I unplugged it and the noise stopped. Once I plugged it back up, it started again. I repeated with the same results. I did stop it from making a noise by turning the key while having my foot on the brake pedal....go figure.....but it should not be making a noise w/o my foot on the pedal. I'm on my way to get a replacement fuse...hopefully that will at least fix the shift lock.
So my main concerns are:
1) Relay noise under passenger's dash will not go away
2) Shift lock (in route to pick up fuse)
3) A continuous noise as if my ABS is working overtime. This does not go away even after I turn off the car...it actually gets louder and is draining my battery.
The life and times of my Nissan Maxima......
So my main concerns are:
1) Relay noise under passenger's dash will not go away
2) Shift lock (in route to pick up fuse)
3) A continuous noise as if my ABS is working overtime. This does not go away even after I turn off the car...it actually gets louder and is draining my battery.
The life and times of my Nissan Maxima......
#15
I have all these exact issues. These posts have been very helpful to me in resolving those issues. I just have one nagging problem I need help with. Every time i try replacing the electrical parts fuse, its blows. Can anyone help me with this.
#16
Shift lock Solenoid
Hi Everyone,
I have a 2004 Nissan Maxima and I have to use a screw driver to press down on the shift lock to move the gear from park. I had all the fuses check. I had the brake switch changed and I just had the shift lock solenoid changed. And the gear is still not moving from park without me having to use the screw driver to press down on the shift lock. Please help....... I am out of options. I don't know what else to do.
I have a 2004 Nissan Maxima and I have to use a screw driver to press down on the shift lock to move the gear from park. I had all the fuses check. I had the brake switch changed and I just had the shift lock solenoid changed. And the gear is still not moving from park without me having to use the screw driver to press down on the shift lock. Please help....... I am out of options. I don't know what else to do.
#18
the solenoid but it didn't fix the problem ... it was the controller-unit nearby. He charged
me for the solenoid job ($50?+ labor) ... but the controller-unit was much easier to replace
without taking the shifter apart.
I also had the ABS buzzing even when the car was off (awhile back) ... The BrakeOil tank was a little low ... filled it up fixed the problem.
#19
I am having the same problems on my 05 SL. It all started with the Auto Driver Position (ADP) system failing to work, though I could hear clicking in a relay up in the glove box area.
Last weekend I took the battery out and charged it at 10amp for 3 hours. Cleaned up both cables and checked for loose connections. Put the battery back in, hooked up pos cable, and then when I hooked the neg cable up, the alarm started going off. The drivers door was open, but the keys were in my pocket. I shut off the alarm with the key fob.
That's when all the problems started. Key in the ignition, buzzer comes on. Start the car, buzzer goes off. Started checking my lights, blinkers and hazard lights work, but there is no clicking sound. Check engine soon light is on, and the switches for the seat and steering wheel (ADP) still don't work.
That "Electronic Parts" 10a fuse.........There was no fuse in there. From what I've read, they say if you're not using the car for extended periods of time, to remove that fuse as it puts a drain on the battery. I bought the car from a dealer, so they may have removed it when the car sat on their lot.
Today, i'm replacing the fusible link on the pos cable and installing a new neg cable. And I hope I find that buzzer.
Any more help from everyone is useful.
Last weekend I took the battery out and charged it at 10amp for 3 hours. Cleaned up both cables and checked for loose connections. Put the battery back in, hooked up pos cable, and then when I hooked the neg cable up, the alarm started going off. The drivers door was open, but the keys were in my pocket. I shut off the alarm with the key fob.
That's when all the problems started. Key in the ignition, buzzer comes on. Start the car, buzzer goes off. Started checking my lights, blinkers and hazard lights work, but there is no clicking sound. Check engine soon light is on, and the switches for the seat and steering wheel (ADP) still don't work.
That "Electronic Parts" 10a fuse.........There was no fuse in there. From what I've read, they say if you're not using the car for extended periods of time, to remove that fuse as it puts a drain on the battery. I bought the car from a dealer, so they may have removed it when the car sat on their lot.
Today, i'm replacing the fusible link on the pos cable and installing a new neg cable. And I hope I find that buzzer.
Any more help from everyone is useful.
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