6th Generation Maxima (2004-2008) Discussion of the 6th generation Maxima. Come see what others are saying.

lighting problem..Anyone else?

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Old 07-19-2010, 10:03 PM
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lighting problem..Anyone else?

2004 Maxima Se.... I was playing around with all the wiring ( Cutting All the Oem radio connector to install aftermarket). there was lil spark while i was cutting... everything work execpt-->> when i trun the head light ON at night all the dash light gose away like Cluster-Oem radio control,shifter.. .....even when the light are off yet everything works as normal .. i checked the fuse everything seem normal nothing blown ... any help guys?? thanks!
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Old 07-20-2010, 12:00 AM
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You must've connected one of the wires wrong bro. I'm not sure which one it would be, but definitely a wrong wire hookup. I'd double check all the wires again with any diagrams/charts you used to figure them out and trace back all the wires to see if connected to the right ones.

Good luck.
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Old 07-20-2010, 02:41 AM
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Originally Posted by shabnyc
2004 Maxima Se.... I was playing around with all the wiring ( Cutting All the Oem radio connector to install aftermarket). there was lil spark while i was cutting... everything work execpt-->> when i trun the head light ON at night all the dash light gose away like Cluster-Oem radio control,shifter.. .....even when the light are off yet everything works as normal .. i checked the fuse everything seem normal nothing blown ... any help guys?? thanks!
I'm going out on a limb to guess that you were cutting the wires without disconnecting the battery? If so, hopefully you didn't short the BCM.
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Old 07-20-2010, 08:23 AM
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Did you check the fuse under the hood on the passenger side? Sounds like a fuse to me cuz only certain lights aren't going on. I forgot what fuse it was. The box is right next to the reservoir tank.
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Old 07-20-2010, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by georgelv1999
Did you check the fuse under the hood on the passenger side? Sounds like a fuse to me cuz only certain lights aren't going on. I forgot what fuse it was. The box is right next to the reservoir tank.
The dash lights work until he turns on the headlights...it's not a fuse issue. When you turn on the headlights, the dashlights are then controlled by the dimmer switch. The dimmer is bypassed UNTIL the headlights are turned on. I'm not sure if the BCM controls the switching to the dimmer, or not, but the problem is not a fuse. It is either the BCM, or something to do with the dimmer switch. When you were cutting wires, did you cut the illumination wire? That wire goes through the dimmer...that would point to a dimmer issue.
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Old 07-20-2010, 05:59 PM
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thanks guys ... i only cut the radio wire... and put it back how it was.. like used the oem connector wire color to car color wired!... Everything light up even function right... as soon as i trun the head light ON thats when the cluster and dash, shifter light gose off.. even with the light off everything function allrite...execpt the dimmer for the cluster doesn't work...

P.s ..to me its like if the light are offf when i trutn the head light on.. why would the cluster dimmer/light up will work??? There is no light for the cluster dimmer to control.

Last edited by shabnyc; 07-20-2010 at 09:03 PM.
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Old 07-20-2010, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by shabnyc
when i trun the head light ON at night all the dash light gose away like Cluster-Oem radio control,shifter.. .....even when the light are off yet everything works as normal ..
Originally Posted by shabnyc
as soon as i trun the head light off thats when the cluster and dash, shifter light gose off.. even with the light off everything function allrite...execpt the dimmer for the cluster doesn't work...
Which is it? Do your dash lights go out when you turn the headlights OFF, or ON?
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Old 07-20-2010, 09:05 PM
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WHen i turn the headlight ON...Its gose off....THanks..!
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Old 07-20-2010, 10:31 PM
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I don't think its a fuse problem either. The head/parking lights would have had to been on to blow the fuse in the IPDM when the wires were cut. But if you want to check the fuse for ****s and giggles its fuse#41 15amp. If your parking/tail lights work then the fuse in the IPDM is fine.

All lights for the the audio controls, heat/ac controls, heated seat switches, window switches, etc run off that fuse in the IPDM. Ground is supplied from the dimmer switch.

A component break down of the lighting of the gauge cluster is not listed in the FSM but I'm fairly sure it gets its power and ground elsewhere when the head/parking lights are off. When the head/parking lights are turned on the gauge clusters illumination power probably continues from the same place but the ground comes from the dimmer switch.

CLIFF NOTES:
DImmer switch FRied..!


btw the dimmer switch isnt turned all the way down i hope. It will turn off all dash lights if it is.
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Old 07-21-2010, 12:17 AM
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Originally Posted by 1hawaii50
or something to do with the dimmer switch.
Originally Posted by DAlastDON

CLIFF NOTES:
DImmer switch FRied..!

btw the dimmer switch isnt turned all the way down i hope. It will turn off all dash lights if it is.

Hmmmmm....what could it be?
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Old 07-21-2010, 12:28 AM
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Originally Posted by 1hawaii50
Hmmmmm....what could it be?
I completely forgot about the dimmer switch thing. Few people thought their dashboard lights went out, but the dimmer was turned all the way down by mistake. I'd check that, if it's all the way up, then i'd get the car checked by an adio shop to make sure everything is connected right or a nearby dealer.
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Old 07-21-2010, 12:50 AM
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Are you guys talking abt cluster dimmer switch????? if yes .. --When the headlight is on the all the dash light gose off... and dimmer switch is the only thing that doesn't function....


Please kindly tell me if thats the problem ..and if it is .. then whats the fix??

I would like To thank you All!
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Old 07-21-2010, 06:23 AM
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Originally Posted by shabnyc
Are you guys talking abt cluster dimmer switch????? if yes .. --When the headlight is on the all the dash light gose off... and dimmer switch is the only thing that doesn't function....


Please kindly tell me if thats the problem ..and if it is .. then whats the fix??

I would like To thank you All!
Please understand that diagnosing something over the internet is difficult. With the information that you have given us, I would START with the dimmer switch. Yes, that is the switch that you circled. You could check it with a test light, but if you don't know what you are doing, then get a friend that does. If you start poking things with a testlight, and you short something else...well, you see how this goes. If you have a friend with a similar year car, you could swap switches and see if it fixes the problem. If the dimmer switch is bad, you are going to need to replace it. You won't be able to fix it. If you can isolate the dimmer switch and the problem goes away...there you go. If you still have the problem, then you have eliminated the dimmer switch as the culprit.
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Old 07-21-2010, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by 1hawaii50
Please understand that diagnosing something over the internet is difficult. With the information that you have given us, I would START with the dimmer switch. Yes, that is the switch that you circled. You could check it with a test light, but if you don't know what you are doing, then get a friend that does. If you start poking things with a testlight, and you short something else...well, you see how this goes. If you have a friend with a similar year car, you could swap switches and see if it fixes the problem. If the dimmer switch is bad, you are going to need to replace it. You won't be able to fix it. If you can isolate the dimmer switch and the problem goes away...there you go. If you still have the problem, then you have eliminated the dimmer switch as the culprit.
+1

If your gonna try and diagnose it with a test light use an LED test light. A regular incandescent test light may draw too much current and fry the dimmer switch if its good. Myself i would use a digital volt meter measuring for a voltage drop/increase when you rotate the dimmer switch.

Using either on put the leads on pin 1(red/lavender) and pin 2(red/yellow). If the test light lights up or the voltage changes on the DVM then its good.

The easiest thing to do is drop a couple bucks for another dimmer switch or borrow someone's to rule it out. I would get one from a local junk yard or you can order one online. It will cost about the same either way.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2004-...Q5fAccessories
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Old 07-21-2010, 10:45 AM
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You shorted something out, just disconnect battery then reconnect and it should resolve the short, if it is a short. BTW why would you cut the wires, why wouldn't you just use a harness that plugs into factory connector and wires to the aftermarket stereo?
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Old 07-21-2010, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by 2000_MAXIMA_KING
You shorted something out, just disconnect battery then reconnect and it should resolve the short, if it is a short. BTW why would you cut the wires, why wouldn't you just use a harness that plugs into factory connector and wires to the aftermarket stereo?
Ummmmm....disconneting the battery isn't going to help. When he shorted whatever he shorted, he damaged a component on the circuit board of whatever it is that he shorted (probably the dimmer switch). Disconnecting the battery is not going to fix whatever he fried on the board. Replacing the damaged component will fix it.
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Old 07-21-2010, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 1hawaii50
Ummmmm....disconneting the battery isn't going to help. When he shorted whatever he shorted, he damaged a component on the circuit board of whatever it is that he shorted (probably the dimmer switch). Disconnecting the battery is not going to fix whatever he fried on the board. Replacing the damaged component will fix it.

Maxima King must be referring to the new self-healing electrical systems. Short fries the circuit --> remove battery connections --> circuit self-heals --> reapply battery connections and all is well. They are all the rage, just not in present time.
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Old 07-21-2010, 02:07 PM
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Edited: I guess DAlastDON knows everything

Last edited by 2000_MAXIMA_KING; 07-21-2010 at 04:25 PM.
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Old 07-21-2010, 02:19 PM
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Edited: My help is not needed because no it all's took over.

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Old 07-21-2010, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by bcampbe7
Maxima King must be referring to the new self-healing electrical systems. Short fries the circuit --> remove battery connections --> circuit self-heals --> reapply battery connections and all is well. They are all the rage, just not in present time.
Thank you for the LULZ.


Originally Posted by 2000_MAXIMA_KING
I guess since I'm a 3rd year under grad electrical engineer major I must not know anything oh well too bad I guess.
Thats a ostentatious statement if i ever seen one. Your not the only one with college credits under your belt. Some may even have degree's and/or real world experience and not rely on the "magic" mentioned below.



Originally Posted by 2000_MAXIMA_KING
This happened to me before, all my lights stopped turning on but my windows would open and close even if the car was off. There was a short some where and it was causing current to travel where it wasn't supposed to, so by disconnecting the positive terminal I was able to stop feeding the current and ground everything then reconnect and there you go magic.
Don't mention this story to any prospective employers when you get your education credentials in 10 years. They will laugh harder than i just did and send you on your way. When an active wire shorts with a potential ground it tends to be attracted to the grounding point. After power is severed the wire will continue to rest on the grounding point or it will release but eventually make contact again after power is restored. It may not happen immediately but it will after some time unless the insulator is repaired. Hours, days, weeks, months even years depending on the conditions.

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Old 07-21-2010, 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by DAlastDON
Thank you for the LULZ.




Thats a ostentatious statement if i ever seen one. Your not the only one with college credits under your belt. Some may even have degree's and/or real world experience and not rely on the "magic" mentioned below.





Don't mention this story to any prospective employers when you get your education credentials in 10 years. They will laugh harder than i just did and send you on your way. When an active wire shorts with a potential ground it tends to be attracted to the grounding point. After power is severed the wire will continue to rest on the grounding point or it will release but eventually make contact again after power is restored. It may not happen immediately but it will after some time unless the insulator is repaired. Hours, days, weeks, months even years depending on the conditions.
Funny how you damn near said same thing I did reworded. OK good for you

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Old 07-21-2010, 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 2000_MAXIMA_KING
Edited: I guess DAlastDON knows everything
DAlastDON is far more knowledgeable about our electronics and circuits than anybody else that I have come across on 3 different Maxima forums...he knows his stuff.

Originally Posted by 2000_MAXIMA_KING
Edited: My help is not needed because no it all's took over.
KNOW-it-alls have not taken over. We just actually read what the problem was and offered a solution that will actually fix the problem, or help him eliminate possibilities. I've never cooked a circuit board component and had it fix itself by cutting/reapplying power to it. Also, if something is dead shorting, it will dead short again as soon as he reapplies the power. So please understand that I'm not trying to be rude, but that really is a silly solution for you to offer. If you had actually read his symptoms, you should have come to the same conclusion that myself and DAlastDON did...it is something to do with the dimmer. This is assuming that you actually understand something about our Maxima's electrical system. I have limited knowledge of it, and it is far and above your average car electrical system that I am used to dealing with.

It always kills me how so many respond to threads with answers that tell me that they never actually read what the problem is. The first responses here are classical responses for an electrical thread "check your fuses...it's a fuse issue". An intermittent electrical problem CANNOT be a fuse issue. A fuse simply allows current to pass, or doesn't allow current to pass. If the dash lights are working, then turn off when you turn on the headlights...IT CANNOT BE A FUSE ISSUE...the dashlights are working. If it was a fuse issue, then you would have NO dash lights...no matter the conditions. I know not everybody knows everything, but people come here looking for help. If you are willing to give some advice...GREAT...but let's think about how you are going to answer BEFORE you give the advice, so that you can give solid, sound advice, and not have people chasing their tails. If you are not sure on what the problem could be, then say so, or don't post. We are here to help others, not confuse them more.

Last edited by 1hawaii50; 07-21-2010 at 08:07 PM.
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Old 07-21-2010, 09:51 PM
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Oh because what I suggested was so hard to do, its not like he's got anything to lose by trying it. I SUGGESTED IT SINCE IT HAPPENED TO ME ON MY 5TH GEN. There you go since you like to type in big letters.
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Old 07-21-2010, 11:02 PM
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Thanks to .. those who took my issue seriously and try to help me .. cuz this is dirving me nuts.. I have alot to learn from you guys... There is a saying in my own word... "" some people cry out of pain ... and few out there who laugh their a$$ off seeing Those who cry out of pain""

We New member or whoever creat a thread..Because they need help and looking for serious answer. Don't take me wrong it will be helpfull if we all help each other insted of laugh .... If i cant help ..i wont make it even worse ...

Thanks.....Guys.... yeat i have a lot to learn from you guys..!

I am looking into dimmer switch .. i will let u guys know once i buy the switch!
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Old 07-21-2010, 11:18 PM
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Ok guys, calm the testosterones down and get back on topic. No reason to take this out of borders and not focus on the actual issue. Put ego's aside and help shabnyc out.

We came to the conclusion that it's the dimmer switch. Call the dealer tomorrow and see how much it is. If it's cheap, then replace it anyway. It won't hurt either way you look at it. If that fixed your issue, then viola!! Everything is back to normal and nothing to worry about.

Like they said, we have to eliminate things one by one to figure out what "could" be causing it. Good luck.
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Old 07-22-2010, 03:27 AM
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Originally Posted by 2000_MAXIMA_KING
Oh because what I suggested was so hard to do, its not like he's got anything to lose by trying it. I SUGGESTED IT SINCE IT HAPPENED TO ME ON MY 5TH GEN. There you go since you like to type in big letters.
Wasn't a matter of being hard to do. 2 people said "we think you fried your dimmer switch" and a third agreed. Then you chimed in afterwards with "disconnect your battery and it will fix itself". Sorry man, but that is a stupid idea. Don't get your panties in a bunch...it is what it is. To the OP, let us know how it works out.

Deadbolt...no testosterone involved. The OP was given some solid advice, then a guy comes in and calls out one of the more knowledgeable people here after he gives out some silly information. He got called on it, and then began crying about it. That's all it is....

Good luck shabnyc...I'm out!
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Old 07-22-2010, 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by 1hawaii50
Wasn't a matter of being hard to do. 2 people said "we think you fried your dimmer switch" and a third agreed. Then you chimed in afterwards with "disconnect your battery and it will fix itself". Sorry man, but that is a stupid idea. Don't get your panties in a bunch...it is what it is. To the OP, let us know how it works out.

Deadbolt...no testosterone involved. The OP was given some solid advice, then a guy comes in and calls out one of the more knowledgeable people here after he gives out some silly information. He got called on it, and then began crying about it. That's all it is....

Good luck shabnyc...I'm out!
Some people are just plain ignorant...smh. So what if he tried what I said and it worked and then problem solved. But no why would we ever consider someone else's advice especially since almost the same thing happened to him, he doesn't know crap he's just an idiot with stupid ideas.

To the op, idk if you tried or didn't try what I suggested or if you even cared I was trying to help you. I suggested this simple thing to you from preventing you from spending money on components you might not need. I had a similar problem and that was how I solved it that's why I chimed in with that idea, that's all.
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Old 07-22-2010, 08:42 AM
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I tried it .. it didn't help...But thank you .... Can we stop please ... we are grown up here .. rn't we??? i mean i guess...

Next...............................
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Old 07-22-2010, 09:23 AM
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ok good luck
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Old 07-22-2010, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by shabnyc
I tried it .. it didn't help...But thank you .... Can we stop please ... we are grown up here .. rn't we??? i mean i guess...

Next...............................
Did you look into how much the dimmer switch costs?
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Old 07-22-2010, 10:49 PM
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Yeap that is the one i brought .. thanks to him!
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Old 07-23-2010, 01:14 AM
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Originally Posted by shabnyc
Yeap that is the one i brought .. thanks to him!
Good, good. Keep us posted if that solved your issue bro
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Old 08-03-2010, 11:11 PM
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Finally................Yes ""dimmer switch"" It is ....Thanks guys problem is solved.

--------------------------- You Guys Are The Best ----------------------
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Old 08-04-2010, 09:44 AM
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I was just about to bump for an update. Glad you go the issue resolved on the first attempt.

With newer cars the FSM is required to trouble shoot most problems, especially electrical problems. Odds are what fried in the dimmer switch was the triac. Its easier just to replace the part than it is to do a component repair.
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Old 08-04-2010, 05:41 PM
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OOH boy, this thread was getting good, Lulzzzz a pleanty. Hey OP, welcome to the org and I can vouch for 1hawaii50, hes a good guy and has helped me in the past. Very good guy, dalastdon I have no real world experience with him but i can tell hes a good guy and very knowledgable through his numerous posts accross the other sites and I would not think twice in PMing him.

Last edited by HMAX08; 08-04-2010 at 05:47 PM.
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Old 08-04-2010, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Hamchan
OOH boy, this thread was getting good, Lulzzzz a pleanty. Hey OP, welcome to the org and I can vouch for 1hawaii50, hes a good guy and has helped me in the past. Very good guy, dalastdon I have no real world experience with him but i can tell hes a good guy and very knowledgable through his numerous posts accross the other sites and I would not think twice in PMing him.

Thanks Hamchan...and +1 on DAlastDON...from the help he's given me, I'm sure he's forgotten more than I'll ever know when it comes to electronics!
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Old 08-10-2010, 10:06 PM
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quick question......

Hello everyone, i hate to taint this informative thread, but im new here and i cant find a "ask a question thread" for the 6th Gen. The map light lever-type switch in my 05 is broken and i was wondering if there is anyway i can fix it without buying the entire assembly somewhere? Any help is greatly appreciated....
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Old 08-11-2010, 02:26 AM
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Originally Posted by truckd
Hello everyone, i hate to taint this informative thread, but im new here and i cant find a "ask a question thread" for the 6th Gen. The map light lever-type switch in my 05 is broken and i was wondering if there is anyway i can fix it without buying the entire assembly somewhere? Any help is greatly appreciated....
It's going to depend on exactly what is broken. If it is something electrical, then it won't be cost effectve to try to fix unless you have some electrical knowledge, and can get the parts (there is a small circuit board inside the switch unit). If it is something mechanical, then you may be able to use some Gorilla glue, or JB weld...depending on what it is.
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Old 08-11-2010, 01:10 PM
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It is the switch itself. The part that has "On Door Off" printed on it. The plastic holes that hold it in place are broken. Do i have to go to a dealer for this?
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Old 08-11-2010, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by truckd
It is the switch itself. The part that has "On Door Off" printed on it. The plastic holes that hold it in place are broken. Do i have to go to a dealer for this?
You won't find any aftermarket part for this...dealer only. Only other option is to find one at a junkyard, or Ebay.
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