6th Generation Maxima (2004-2008) Discussion of the 6th generation Maxima. Come see what others are saying.

New Brakes

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 04-12-2011, 11:24 AM
  #1  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Snidely's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: New York
Posts: 33
New Brakes

I just changed my brakes and rotors (front and rear) on my '06 and since then the brakes have been rumbling at slower speed stopping. I don't notice anything when braking when going faster than 30mph but the noise starts when lower than 30. There is no noticable bouncing from warped rotors and the brakes stop fine, just worried about the noise. Does anyone have a suggestion?
Snidely is offline  
Old 04-14-2011, 11:49 AM
  #2  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Snidely's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: New York
Posts: 33
Thanks
Snidely is offline  
Old 04-14-2011, 12:00 PM
  #3  
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
 
hero782's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 677
You need to in bed the brakes for it to stop squealing
hero782 is offline  
Old 04-14-2011, 04:20 PM
  #4  
Senior Member
 
twentyeggs's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 1,625
Not very many people know about bedding the brakes. I'll post a tutorial. By bedding your brakes you will give your car more stopping power, and increase the lifetime of your brakes. Enjoy and use cation when doing this.

  1. From 60mph, gently apply the brakes a couple of times to bring them up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.
  2. Make eight to ten near-stops from 60mph to about 10-15 mph. Do it HARD by pressing the brakes firmly, but do not lock the wheels or engage ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph and then apply the brakes again. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! If you stop completely and sit with your foot on the brake pedal, you will imprint pad material onto the hot rotors, which could lead to vibration and uneven braking.
  3. The brakes may begin to fade after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A strong smell from the brakes, and even some smoke, is normal.
  4. After the last near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and cruise for a while, using the brakes as little as possible. The brakes need only a few minutes to cool down. Try not to become trapped in traffic or come to a complete stop while the brakes are still very hot.
  5. If full race pads, such as Hawk DTC-70 or Performance Friction PFC01 are being used, add four near-stops from 80 to 10 mph.
After the break-in cycle, there should be a slight blue tint and a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is what you are looking for. The best braking occurs when there is an even layer of of pad material deposited across the rotors. This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque, and maximizes pad and rotor life.
After the first break in cycle shown above, the brakes may still not be fully broken in. A second bed-in cycle, AFTER the brakes have cooled down fully from the first cycle, may be necessary before the brakes really start to perform well. This is especially true if you have installed new pads on old rotors, since the pads need time to conform to the old rotor wear pattern. If you've just installed a big brake kit, the pedal travel may not feel as firm as you expected. After the second cycle, the pedal will become noticeably firmer. If necessary, bleed the brakes to improve pedal firmness.
twentyeggs is offline  
Old 04-14-2011, 08:00 PM
  #5  
Newbie - Just Registered
 
miillersickness's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 9
Thats a great tip, thanks man!
miillersickness is offline  
Old 02-17-2012, 04:08 AM
  #6  
Newbie - Just Registered
 
speedlever's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 2
For the record, here is the brake burnishing procedure from the 2007 Maxima FSM:

Name:  wA6OJ.png
Views: 5
Size:  71.6 KB
speedlever is offline  
Old 02-17-2012, 04:15 AM
  #7  
Senior Member
iTrader: (8)
 
RAZ76's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Sooner Country
Posts: 1,223
Originally Posted by twentyeggs
Not very many people know about bedding the brakes. I'll post a tutorial. By bedding your brakes you will give your car more stopping power, and increase the lifetime of your brakes. Enjoy and use cation when doing this.

  1. From 60mph, gently apply the brakes a couple of times to bring them up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.
  2. Make eight to ten near-stops from 60mph to about 10-15 mph. Do it HARD by pressing the brakes firmly, but do not lock the wheels or engage ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph and then apply the brakes again. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! If you stop completely and sit with your foot on the brake pedal, you will imprint pad material onto the hot rotors, which could lead to vibration and uneven braking.
  3. The brakes may begin to fade after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A strong smell from the brakes, and even some smoke, is normal.
  4. After the last near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and cruise for a while, using the brakes as little as possible. The brakes need only a few minutes to cool down. Try not to become trapped in traffic or come to a complete stop while the brakes are still very hot.
  5. If full race pads, such as Hawk DTC-70 or Performance Friction PFC01 are being used, add four near-stops from 80 to 10 mph.
After the break-in cycle, there should be a slight blue tint and a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is what you are looking for. The best braking occurs when there is an even layer of of pad material deposited across the rotors. This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque, and maximizes pad and rotor life.
After the first break in cycle shown above, the brakes may still not be fully broken in. A second bed-in cycle, AFTER the brakes have cooled down fully from the first cycle, may be necessary before the brakes really start to perform well. This is especially true if you have installed new pads on old rotors, since the pads need time to conform to the old rotor wear pattern. If you've just installed a big brake kit, the pedal travel may not feel as firm as you expected. After the second cycle, the pedal will become noticeably firmer. If necessary, bleed the brakes to improve pedal firmness.
Great tip but unless he owns a race track, where the hell is he gonna be able to do that with out causing a wreck or get pulled over?

This should work better. 5 stops from 35mph to 5mph, hard stops but don't lock them up. Then 5 more at 40 down to 5. Stop let cool off for about 15 to 20 minutes and done.
RAZ76 is offline  
Old 02-18-2012, 09:30 AM
  #8  
Member
 
acercomp71's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 251
All you do is drive-stop-drive cycle 5 times in your neighborhood and that's it for bedding brakes. Eveyrthing else you read is bunch of bolognia and nothing but complications. Just change your brakes and drive-stop 5 times and forget it.
Oh and flush your brake lines and put new fluid in! If you need proper procedure to do this, just ask right here.
acercomp71 is offline  
Old 02-18-2012, 12:35 PM
  #9  
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (1)
 
xorbitman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 998
Great write up people!
xorbitman is offline  
Old 02-18-2012, 07:15 PM
  #10  
Senior Member
 
Kryogen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,531
Mine did that for a while.... your pads dont fit the rotors yet.
Kryogen is offline  
Old 02-19-2012, 12:51 PM
  #11  
Senior Member
 
NIKV69's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Bay Shore, NY
Posts: 819
Originally Posted by acercomp71
All you do is drive-stop-drive cycle 5 times in your neighborhood and that's it for bedding brakes. Eveyrthing else you read is bunch of bolognia and nothing but complications. Just change your brakes and drive-stop 5 times and forget it.
Oh and flush your brake lines and put new fluid in! If you need proper procedure to do this, just ask right here.
You don't even need to do that. If you do the brakes properly. Clean all the backing plates, clean the part of the caliper where the pad tabs float and use brake quiet on the back of the pads all you need to do is go on a medium to short test drive. Doing a few normal stops and break in the pads as you would a new car. No hard high speed stops for 300-500 miles.
NIKV69 is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
BPuff57
Advanced Suspension, Chassis, and Braking
33
04-16-2020 05:15 AM
My Coffee
New Member Introductions
15
06-06-2017 02:01 PM
leatherneck
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
1
09-30-2015 09:16 PM
HerpDerp1919
3rd Generation Maxima (1989-1994)
2
09-29-2015 02:02 PM
Socalstillen
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
1
09-26-2015 12:01 PM



Quick Reply: New Brakes



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 08:22 AM.