My R2c CAI review..., post your own pics and review please of R2c or any intake
06-21-2011, 05:08 PM
#1
My R2c CAI review..., post your own pics and review please of R2c or any intake
So, I finally installed my Black-nickel R2c intake. Here is my story so far...
After a very tough process for me I finally got it in with the help of another org member, Aackshun. Made a mistake; forgot to connect MAF sensor back!!! So, when I cranked the car, check engine light came on. First reaction, I was pissed!!! I immediately said to myself, I would sell this back. But we connected MAF sensor and reset the battery again and VOILA!!! Car came alive with no lights.
Now to test drive..., wasn't a good experience. Car was talking back to me that he wasn't breathing too well, so he was choking, growling, roaring and purring all at the same time. Confused sounds. Ride didn't sound too smooth at all. I tried to tame it by going to manual, slowing down and being gentle on throttle, it didn't work! The car was just acting like a wild untamed horse and trying to control the speed on its own. I was not happy at all, neither was the car. Aackshun took the wheel and made my car roar and scream. I think it helped a littlew to tame it.
Well, 4 hours after install and after first crazy test drive, I decided to go for a decisive drive to decide if I will keep or sell my newly bought R2c intake.
This time, she started breathing normal when I cranked it. Well, I thought he was playing games with me. Anyway, I hit the freeway and gunned it. It responded very well and picked up very well with a nice and steady growl. I was quick to hit 100mph and passing cars was a breeze. He was finally getting used to his new breathing system, lol.
MY HONEST VERDICT:
It looks good. Has a great filter, meaning better engine protection. It performs good. At low speeds, it sounds stock, at higher speeds, it sounds mean, growls and sounds like a race-car. RPM seems to stay low, so if you are just cruising, this means it can actually increase mileage. I have not tried this yet because all I have been doing is flooring it for the sound and to see how responsive it is. It is very responsive.
COMPARED TO STOCK:
I personally think difference is the sound. As for performance, my stock was same thing, to be honest. But the R2c sounds a little more fun because of responsiveness and the growl. If I don't see a consistent mileage gain with normal driving, then I would say I might not be too pleased.
CONCLUSION:
I like my R2c and will keep it. But I honestly need like a month or 2 to give an updated review to see if its worth its name and price.
After a very tough process for me I finally got it in with the help of another org member, Aackshun. Made a mistake; forgot to connect MAF sensor back!!! So, when I cranked the car, check engine light came on. First reaction, I was pissed!!! I immediately said to myself, I would sell this back. But we connected MAF sensor and reset the battery again and VOILA!!! Car came alive with no lights.
Now to test drive..., wasn't a good experience. Car was talking back to me that he wasn't breathing too well, so he was choking, growling, roaring and purring all at the same time. Confused sounds. Ride didn't sound too smooth at all. I tried to tame it by going to manual, slowing down and being gentle on throttle, it didn't work! The car was just acting like a wild untamed horse and trying to control the speed on its own. I was not happy at all, neither was the car. Aackshun took the wheel and made my car roar and scream. I think it helped a littlew to tame it.
Well, 4 hours after install and after first crazy test drive, I decided to go for a decisive drive to decide if I will keep or sell my newly bought R2c intake.
This time, she started breathing normal when I cranked it. Well, I thought he was playing games with me. Anyway, I hit the freeway and gunned it. It responded very well and picked up very well with a nice and steady growl. I was quick to hit 100mph and passing cars was a breeze. He was finally getting used to his new breathing system, lol.
MY HONEST VERDICT:
It looks good. Has a great filter, meaning better engine protection. It performs good. At low speeds, it sounds stock, at higher speeds, it sounds mean, growls and sounds like a race-car. RPM seems to stay low, so if you are just cruising, this means it can actually increase mileage. I have not tried this yet because all I have been doing is flooring it for the sound and to see how responsive it is. It is very responsive.
COMPARED TO STOCK:
I personally think difference is the sound. As for performance, my stock was same thing, to be honest. But the R2c sounds a little more fun because of responsiveness and the growl. If I don't see a consistent mileage gain with normal driving, then I would say I might not be too pleased.
CONCLUSION:
I like my R2c and will keep it. But I honestly need like a month or 2 to give an updated review to see if its worth its name and price.
06-22-2011, 09:06 PM
#10
I don't know how to express how much I love my R2C, especially over Fujita!!!!! Great product! Your issues with it running funky is simply because you didn't install the MAF. Either drive it like normal for a while or do an ECU reset and you will be all set! Also make sure your connections are tightly secured with no vacuum or air leaks! That is KEY!
06-23-2011, 08:46 AM
#12
I want to thank you (mvodnansky) and BOOTZ for responding to my PMs about how well you like your R2c and how well it performs. Your reviews made me finally decide on this and that is why I bought this. As of today, it has "settled" in. It is really sounding nice. I do like it so far.
As for mileage increase, I can't say yet. But I am trying to see if it improves mileage since it breathes better now. So, as of yesterday, I stopped flooring it. Now, trying to drive as a "regular" driver would. Always trying to stay at most 10mph above speed limit and no fast accelerations. Want to see how mileage does.
Stay tuned...
06-23-2011, 08:39 PM
#13
Hey bud, the mileage difference is not noticable, but not in a bad way. You will definetely lose some MPG's due to playing around with it for several months if anything. It is hard to notice but inevitably you will be driving it a bit harder for a while. You certainly don't "lose" any MPG's but don't look for an increase as a benefit to having this system. Only benefit is the superior air filtration and looks at most. It's not a "game changer" for the engine, performance, or fuel economy. Just enjoy it though! I have!!!
As for the rubber molding, mine wraps all around the heat shield and my heat shield isn't cut like yours where there is half a wall missing. I wish I had a pic of mine for you but there are others here to see. try to see the difference and let me know if you catch it. It's peculiar.....
As for the rubber molding, mine wraps all around the heat shield and my heat shield isn't cut like yours where there is half a wall missing. I wish I had a pic of mine for you but there are others here to see. try to see the difference and let me know if you catch it. It's peculiar.....
I had to really force the whole system in to fit. You?
06-23-2011, 08:50 PM
#16
BOOTZ, is your air filter from R2C smaller in dimension??? This is beginning to become strange to me with all these different pictures knowing what I have, you have, and Petit????
06-23-2011, 11:07 PM
#17
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 28
I just got my 2007 fully loaded nissan maxima se two weeks ago and am looking for the best mods I can find. I had recently bought a magnaflow muffler and I am looking for an intake to buy next! This R2c looks very interesting and I have been hearing great reviews. I just have one question. Does anyone know if this performs better than an injen intake or k&n?? Please let me know! Thanks!
06-24-2011, 07:13 AM
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 605
When they went to put it in the filter was a little big compared to the fitment in the 6th gens. They said they were gonna include a smaller filter with the intakes after mine and ended up shipping me a new filter, but I never used it.
06-24-2011, 09:06 PM
#19
Actually, I think it might be bigger. I was the first 6.5 gen to get this. I went to R2C to have them install it and take pictures for the installation instructions.
When they went to put it in the filter was a little big compared to the fitment in the 6th gens. They said they were gonna include a smaller filter with the intakes after mine and ended up shipping me a new filter, but I never used it.
When they went to put it in the filter was a little big compared to the fitment in the 6th gens. They said they were gonna include a smaller filter with the intakes after mine and ended up shipping me a new filter, but I never used it.
06-25-2011, 02:03 PM
#20
Hmmm, this is strange. Look at the one picture on the beginning of this thread. Petit's car. He has the same filter as I do, which clearly looks bigger to me. Unless I am not seeing it right but look close at it. I live in Chicago suburbs and went to see them as well personally and pick mine up. I never got a different filter, but mine DID fit VERY tightly! I wish I knew what was going on......
06-25-2011, 09:40 PM
#22
Ahhh, ok, well that sir was the eaxact and ONLY issue was that small SQUEEZE that I had to force the filter on that brace behind headlight. I know to service the filter I would have to remove the entire intake because otherwise I will destroy the filter pulling it out. Still much easier to take on that project rather than the Fujita! Oolatec, love my R2C sooo much better after all this time since we talked briefly!!!
06-26-2011, 01:17 PM
#23
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 1,625
if you spend more than 50 bucks on a SRI or CAI, you've wasted your money. I built my SRI for 30 bucks. Performance comes from the type of filter and only the filter. black-nickle, brushed aluminum, T-6 Aluminum alloy, chrome, silver, gold, platinum, plutonium, uranium, lead, whatever the *** it is it doesn't do **** but put a dent in your wallet. the length of the piping has a miniscule difference but physics says shorter is better =less friction/resistance. SRI(w/heat shield)>CAI but you won't notice.
your problems were this:
you told us about your extremely noob move on not connecting your MAF... SMH lol it was funny, buuuut keep that stuff to yourself lol. i once put up a torque converter on without measuring the gear clearance and took the manufacturers word for it and used the 1/32" gasket instead of the 1/16" and almost ruined my part, but i keep those F ups secrete, so should you people can be harsh in the 6th gen section.
second, you didn't reset your ecu.. this is why your car was having a panic attack after the instal. when you do any engine mod, you should reset your ecu because all the info your ecu learned until that mod will hinder its new performance.
if you reset your ecu, i bet you will be able to tell a difference between the before and after, you should also see your gas mileage improve! give it a try. your still running your old maps in with new and old information mixed, so there's no surprise that you can't tell a difference other than sound.
you can reset your ECU by disconnecting the bat for an hour or do the gas peddle method, (recommended, it resets more than just your driving maps)
How to reset ECU in 5th and 6th Generation Maxima’s
1. Turn ignition switch on and wait about 3 seconds.
Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking. (here is where i think you can get a code from this.)
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 second.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.
Also, I have read that it takes 400-500 miles of driving for the ECU to complete a base tune and what your future driving habits will add into.
good luck an let us know if this makes a difference
your problems were this:
you told us about your extremely noob move on not connecting your MAF... SMH lol it was funny, buuuut keep that stuff to yourself lol. i once put up a torque converter on without measuring the gear clearance and took the manufacturers word for it and used the 1/32" gasket instead of the 1/16" and almost ruined my part, but i keep those F ups secrete, so should you people can be harsh in the 6th gen section.
second, you didn't reset your ecu.. this is why your car was having a panic attack after the instal. when you do any engine mod, you should reset your ecu because all the info your ecu learned until that mod will hinder its new performance.
if you reset your ecu, i bet you will be able to tell a difference between the before and after, you should also see your gas mileage improve! give it a try. your still running your old maps in with new and old information mixed, so there's no surprise that you can't tell a difference other than sound.
you can reset your ECU by disconnecting the bat for an hour or do the gas peddle method, (recommended, it resets more than just your driving maps)
How to reset ECU in 5th and 6th Generation Maxima’s
1. Turn ignition switch on and wait about 3 seconds.
Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking. (here is where i think you can get a code from this.)
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 second.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.
Also, I have read that it takes 400-500 miles of driving for the ECU to complete a base tune and what your future driving habits will add into.
good luck an let us know if this makes a difference
Last edited by twentyeggs; 06-27-2011 at 06:42 PM.
06-26-2011, 07:31 PM
#25
if you spend more than 50 bucks on a SRI or CAI, you've wasted your money. I built my SRI for 30 bucks. Performance comes from the type of filter and only the filter. black-nickle, brushed aluminum, T-6 Aluminum alloy, chrome, silver, gold, platinum, plutonium, uranium, lead, whatever the *** it is it doesn't do **** but put a dent in your wallet. the length of the piping has a miniscule difference but physics says shorter is better =less friction/resistance. SRI(w/heat shield)>CAI but you won't notice.
your problems were this:
you told us about your extremely noob move on not connecting your MAF... SMH lol it was funny, buuuut keep that stuff to yourself lol. i once put up a torque converter on without measuring the gear clearance and took the manufacturers word for it and used the 1/32" gasket instead of the 1/16" and almost ruined my part, but i keep those F ups secrete, so should you people can be harsh in the 6th gen section.
second, you didn't reset your ecu.. this is why your car was having a panic attack after the instal. when you do any engine mod, you should reset your ecu because all the info your ecu learned until that mod will hinder its new performance.
if you reset your ecu, i bet you will be able to tell a difference between the before and after, give it a try. your still running your old maps in with new information so there's no surprise that you can't tell a difference other than sound.
you can reset your ECU by disconnecting the bat for an hour or do the gas peddle method, (recommended, it resets more than just your driving maps)
How to reset ECU in 5th and 6th Generation Maxima’s
1. Turn ignition switch on and wait about 3 seconds.
Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking. (here is where i think you can get a code from this.)
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 second.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.
good luck an let us know if this makes a difference
your problems were this:
you told us about your extremely noob move on not connecting your MAF... SMH lol it was funny, buuuut keep that stuff to yourself lol. i once put up a torque converter on without measuring the gear clearance and took the manufacturers word for it and used the 1/32" gasket instead of the 1/16" and almost ruined my part, but i keep those F ups secrete, so should you people can be harsh in the 6th gen section.
second, you didn't reset your ecu.. this is why your car was having a panic attack after the instal. when you do any engine mod, you should reset your ecu because all the info your ecu learned until that mod will hinder its new performance.
if you reset your ecu, i bet you will be able to tell a difference between the before and after, give it a try. your still running your old maps in with new information so there's no surprise that you can't tell a difference other than sound.
you can reset your ECU by disconnecting the bat for an hour or do the gas peddle method, (recommended, it resets more than just your driving maps)
How to reset ECU in 5th and 6th Generation Maxima’s
1. Turn ignition switch on and wait about 3 seconds.
Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking. (here is where i think you can get a code from this.)
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 second.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.
good luck an let us know if this makes a difference
Hmmm, ok, so you are saying that over the last several decades any custom intake has no benefit whatsoever? I just want to be clear before I feel like a COMPLETE idiot!!!
06-26-2011, 08:39 PM
#27
06-26-2011, 08:47 PM
#28
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 1,625
if you read what i wrote, spending 200 bucks on an intake is a waste of money in my opinion when you can get aluminum piping for 15 bucks (you can even spray it for whatever "finish" you want) and a good *** filter for 30 bucks.
like i said before, its the FILTER that makes ALL of the difference. not the design, (unless its a maze of piping which they don't make so its irrelevant) material attached to the filter, or brand name, ITS JUST THE FILTER so you are basically spending $200+ for the R2C filter, THATS IT in terms of performance. filters now a days are so close in breathability that the minute gain in the R2C filter won't give you any added benefit when compared with a filter for 20-30 bucks. this may not be the case under forced induction, but the generic filters at autozone are more than breathable for a naturally aspirated 3.5 liter engine. our cars are not sucking in enough air for the "superior breathabiliy" the R2C offers to make a difference. simply changing to a cone filter is more than enough to gain that extra performance. your 200 bucks went to a bunch of sales hype.
use your brains, and stop reading the sales pitch...
if someone wants to do a bet with me and are dyno'ing their car, ill bring in a generic filter, and we will compare dyno results and 50 bucks goes to the winner. im SoCal local. anyone who knows cars won't accept the challenge because they know every pull yeilds different enough results to show that the difference in filters is can't be proven so there is no point in even arguing it. however the difference in price $200+ compared to the $50 is not so small.
like i said before, its the FILTER that makes ALL of the difference. not the design, (unless its a maze of piping which they don't make so its irrelevant) material attached to the filter, or brand name, ITS JUST THE FILTER so you are basically spending $200+ for the R2C filter, THATS IT in terms of performance. filters now a days are so close in breathability that the minute gain in the R2C filter won't give you any added benefit when compared with a filter for 20-30 bucks. this may not be the case under forced induction, but the generic filters at autozone are more than breathable for a naturally aspirated 3.5 liter engine. our cars are not sucking in enough air for the "superior breathabiliy" the R2C offers to make a difference. simply changing to a cone filter is more than enough to gain that extra performance. your 200 bucks went to a bunch of sales hype.
use your brains, and stop reading the sales pitch...
if someone wants to do a bet with me and are dyno'ing their car, ill bring in a generic filter, and we will compare dyno results and 50 bucks goes to the winner. im SoCal local. anyone who knows cars won't accept the challenge because they know every pull yeilds different enough results to show that the difference in filters is can't be proven so there is no point in even arguing it. however the difference in price $200+ compared to the $50 is not so small.
Last edited by twentyeggs; 06-26-2011 at 09:04 PM.
06-26-2011, 08:51 PM
#29
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 1,625
im not going to cut copy and past what i wrote, you can just go back and actually read what i said and answer your own question.
06-26-2011, 10:17 PM
#30
I think the Ram air outlet tube isn't quite lined up to discharge into the filter but somewhat behind the heatshield...a little adjustment could result in a little more air reaching the intake filter and maybe more power!!!!
06-26-2011, 10:58 PM
#31
if you read what i wrote, spending 200 bucks on an intake is a waste of money in my opinion when you can get aluminum piping for 15 bucks (you can even spray it for whatever "finish" you want) and a good *** filter for 30 bucks.
like i said before, its the FILTER that makes ALL of the difference. not the design, (unless its a maze of piping which they don't make so its irrelevant) material attached to the filter, or brand name, ITS JUST THE FILTER so you are basically spending $200+ for the R2C filter, THATS IT in terms of performance. filters now a days are so close in breathability that the minute gain in the R2C filter won't give you any added benefit when compared with a filter for 20-30 bucks. this may not be the case under forced induction, but the generic filters at autozone are more than breathable for a naturally aspirated 3.5 liter engine. our cars are not sucking in enough air for the "superior breathabiliy" the R2C offers to make a difference. simply changing to a cone filter is more than enough to gain that extra performance. your 200 bucks went to a bunch of sales hype.
use your brains, and stop reading the sales pitch...
if someone wants to do a bet with me and are dyno'ing their car, ill bring in a generic filter, and we will compare dyno results and 50 bucks goes to the winner. im SoCal local. anyone who knows cars won't accept the challenge because they know every pull yeilds different enough results to show that the difference in filters is can't be proven so there is no point in even arguing it. however the difference in price $200+ compared to the $50 is not so small.
like i said before, its the FILTER that makes ALL of the difference. not the design, (unless its a maze of piping which they don't make so its irrelevant) material attached to the filter, or brand name, ITS JUST THE FILTER so you are basically spending $200+ for the R2C filter, THATS IT in terms of performance. filters now a days are so close in breathability that the minute gain in the R2C filter won't give you any added benefit when compared with a filter for 20-30 bucks. this may not be the case under forced induction, but the generic filters at autozone are more than breathable for a naturally aspirated 3.5 liter engine. our cars are not sucking in enough air for the "superior breathabiliy" the R2C offers to make a difference. simply changing to a cone filter is more than enough to gain that extra performance. your 200 bucks went to a bunch of sales hype.
use your brains, and stop reading the sales pitch...
if someone wants to do a bet with me and are dyno'ing their car, ill bring in a generic filter, and we will compare dyno results and 50 bucks goes to the winner. im SoCal local. anyone who knows cars won't accept the challenge because they know every pull yeilds different enough results to show that the difference in filters is can't be proven so there is no point in even arguing it. however the difference in price $200+ compared to the $50 is not so small.
Keep your crappy filter to yourself. Enjoy the gunked up throttle body and your +2 timing advance.
06-26-2011, 10:59 PM
#32
06-26-2011, 11:02 PM
#33
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 1,625
interesting.. id say thats a great idea, the benefit of less friction with the SRI with the pro of a cold air like a CAI..
+1 good idea
06-27-2011, 09:45 AM
#34
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 605
LOL And where exactly will you put the MAF sensor? How are you going to measure laminar air flow with your Home Depot intake? Finding the proper location alone requires a lot of R&D... most companies just stick it anywhere, without any further testing. That's not the case with this system.
Keep your crappy filter to yourself. Enjoy the gunked up throttle body and your +2 timing advance.
Keep your crappy filter to yourself. Enjoy the gunked up throttle body and your +2 timing advance.
06-27-2011, 10:40 AM
#35
I have been trying to see if this setup helps with gas mileage, but can't seem to keep my foot off the gas pedal to listen to this growl. I step on it too often to hear that nice growl and my gas mileage takes a deep! It is truly nice, the growl. I will reset my ECU today by disconnecting the battery and see if I feel any little difference or imporved responsiveness after that.
Guys that have the R2c, it is true from the pictures that the heat shield blocks a little flow of air. But I don't know if it truly makes any difference. But if someone could make a fix to that, I wonder if we would see any difference. Would be nice to know. I know for a fact that I am not going to cut anything on this system. So, the air would just have to find its way to the filter by itself. No guidance from me, as of now!
Well, after reset, will try stepping on it for a couple of days to compareto see if responsiveness has improved. Then after that, will go back to trying to see if this improves gas mileage, by driving as a regular person.
Guys that have the R2c, it is true from the pictures that the heat shield blocks a little flow of air. But I don't know if it truly makes any difference. But if someone could make a fix to that, I wonder if we would see any difference. Would be nice to know. I know for a fact that I am not going to cut anything on this system. So, the air would just have to find its way to the filter by itself. No guidance from me, as of now!
Well, after reset, will try stepping on it for a couple of days to compareto see if responsiveness has improved. Then after that, will go back to trying to see if this improves gas mileage, by driving as a regular person.
06-27-2011, 11:30 AM
#36
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 605
I've been thinking of heat up the heat shield and bending it in toward the engine a little bit, or cutting a section out to let air from the snorkel reach it. Just never got around to it.
Would be worth a try although I don't think we would see a very noticeable difference.
Would be worth a try although I don't think we would see a very noticeable difference.
06-27-2011, 12:34 PM
#37
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 1,625
LOL And where exactly will you put the MAF sensor? How are you going to measure laminar air flow with your Home Depot intake? Finding the proper location alone requires a lot of R&D... most companies just stick it anywhere, without any further testing. That's not the case with this system.
Keep your crappy filter to yourself. Enjoy the gunked up throttle body and your +2 timing advance.
Keep your crappy filter to yourself. Enjoy the gunked up throttle body and your +2 timing advance.
lol i didn't read this one till now.. but dude, do you really think im running with no MAF? im pretty sure you wouldn't be able to idle without a MAF. I got my piping from autozone, and its is identical to AEMs piping (except with a larger diameter=less friction= better performance for F/I applications, theres no need for a larger diameter piping with a 3.5 N/A car but again its comes like that) with all the vacuum tube inlets and my MAF is right where its supposed to be, in the middle/rear where all companies claim is the best spot. however i don't really think it makes a difference as long as it isn't right behind the filter. but for arguments sake, they say the maf needs to be located far enough behind the filter where the air flow is uniform and not choppy like it is at the filter.
my filter came off my Injen CAI i got for my 4th gen. the reason im knocking on spending over 200 bucks for something that costs $10 to manufacturer, is because generic piping and brand name piping does the same thing, and the filter, as long as you get one that doesn't suck (which i've never come across) it will do the same thing too.
now if you guys were running forced induction, then i would say go spend money on a top of the line filter, but as our engines are right now, the car doesn't suck enough air for the resistance of an air filter to post any problems. we are 3.5 liter V6's.. a 30 dollar cone filter provides more than enough surface area, making it more breathable wont do anything compared to a 30 dollar cone filter from autozone.
its overkill
Last edited by twentyeggs; 06-27-2011 at 01:08 PM.
06-27-2011, 12:39 PM
#38
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 1,625
I've been thinking of heat up the heat shield and bending it in toward the engine a little bit, or cutting a section out to let air from the snorkel reach it. Just never got around to it.
Would be worth a try although I don't think we would see a very noticeable difference.
Would be worth a try although I don't think we would see a very noticeable difference.
I have been trying to see if this setup helps with gas mileage, but can't seem to keep my foot off the gas pedal to listen to this growl. I step on it too often to hear that nice growl and my gas mileage takes a deep! It is truly nice, the growl. I will reset my ECU today by disconnecting the battery and see if I feel any little difference or imporved responsiveness after that.
Guys that have the R2c, it is true from the pictures that the heat shield blocks a little flow of air. But I don't know if it truly makes any difference. But if someone could make a fix to that, I wonder if we would see any difference. Would be nice to know. I know for a fact that I am not going to cut anything on this system. So, the air would just have to find its way to the filter by itself. No guidance from me, as of now!
Well, after reset, will try stepping on it for a couple of days to compareto see if responsiveness has improved. Then after that, will go back to trying to see if this improves gas mileage, by driving as a regular person.
Guys that have the R2c, it is true from the pictures that the heat shield blocks a little flow of air. But I don't know if it truly makes any difference. But if someone could make a fix to that, I wonder if we would see any difference. Would be nice to know. I know for a fact that I am not going to cut anything on this system. So, the air would just have to find its way to the filter by itself. No guidance from me, as of now!
Well, after reset, will try stepping on it for a couple of days to compareto see if responsiveness has improved. Then after that, will go back to trying to see if this improves gas mileage, by driving as a regular person.
take a look at where your air box used to be, right under that is about 8 lbs of plastic that is now useless and serves no purpose. get under your car pop out the splash/rock guard, and pull all that crap out of there.. once that is gone you will have a huge hole that goes right to the road, where fresh cold air will be assessable. i put a small scoop in the rock guard so it directs cold air into that space so my SRI has all the cold air it needs. its the same spot where CAI guys put there filters. with the heat shield being right over that, and all that useless plastic gone, you will have the benefit of a CAI with the shorter tube.
and remember to report back once you have reset the ecu.. i would really recommend the gas peddle method, its really not that hard, i did it in 1 min. its is a better reset, its is more like a hard reset rather than a soft reset that you get by disconnecting the bat, you also don't have to worry about resetting your clock, and radio stations, maybe your memory seat (i donno for sure) ect..
Last edited by twentyeggs; 06-27-2011 at 12:48 PM.
06-28-2011, 09:50 AM
#39
I did reset the battery last night. I disconnected the negative terminal and left it off for 2 hours. Reconnected it at 11:30pm, cranked my car, rev'd it up a couple of times and went to bed.
Today, I can say I kinda feel a little more response. But I think also that I feel it because a lot of guys say you will feel it after reset. So, I don't know if my imagination is playing with me. Well, I know my imagination is not playing games with me because I don't drink any alcohol whatsoever, nor do I smoke. So, I will report by tomorrow or weekend if it is truly responsive after the reset I did.
twentyggs, as for the hard reset, I truly need to practice that just sitting on a chair and stepping on an imaginary pedal and watching the seconds, before actually doing it in my car. I hear timing is the key to getting that right. Some people have gotten it for their first time after like 5 to 7 attempts. I don't know if one keeps on getting it wrong, your check engine light stays on!!! Is that true? Then that sucks. But I will give it a shot maybe before the end of the week.
Any 6thgen R2c owners, feel free to take a pic of yours under your hood and post pics and share reviews. Even if you are a 7thgen and happen to stop by here, feel free to post pics of your R2c and give your review.
Today, I can say I kinda feel a little more response. But I think also that I feel it because a lot of guys say you will feel it after reset. So, I don't know if my imagination is playing with me. Well, I know my imagination is not playing games with me because I don't drink any alcohol whatsoever, nor do I smoke. So, I will report by tomorrow or weekend if it is truly responsive after the reset I did.
twentyggs, as for the hard reset, I truly need to practice that just sitting on a chair and stepping on an imaginary pedal and watching the seconds, before actually doing it in my car. I hear timing is the key to getting that right. Some people have gotten it for their first time after like 5 to 7 attempts. I don't know if one keeps on getting it wrong, your check engine light stays on!!! Is that true? Then that sucks. But I will give it a shot maybe before the end of the week.
Any 6thgen R2c owners, feel free to take a pic of yours under your hood and post pics and share reviews. Even if you are a 7thgen and happen to stop by here, feel free to post pics of your R2c and give your review.
06-28-2011, 10:06 AM
#40
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 1,625
I did reset the battery last night. I disconnected the negative terminal and left it off for 2 hours. Reconnected it at 11:30pm, cranked my car, rev'd it up a couple of times and went to bed.
Today, I can say I kinda feel a little more response. But I think also that I feel it because a lot of guys say you will feel it after reset. So, I don't know if my imagination is playing with me. Well, I know my imagination is not playing games with me because I don't drink any alcohol whatsoever, nor do I smoke. So, I will report by tomorrow or weekend if it is truly responsive after the reset I did.
twentyggs, as for the hard reset, I truly need to practice that just sitting on a chair and stepping on an imaginary pedal and watching the seconds, before actually doing it in my car. I hear timing is the key to getting that right. Some people have gotten it for their first time after like 5 to 7 attempts. I don't know if one keeps on getting it wrong, your check engine light stays on!!! Is that true? Then that sucks. But I will give it a shot maybe before the end of the week.
Any 6thgen R2c owners, feel free to take a pic of yours under your hood and post pics and share reviews. Even if you are a 7thgen and happen to stop by here, feel free to post pics of your R2c and give your review.
Today, I can say I kinda feel a little more response. But I think also that I feel it because a lot of guys say you will feel it after reset. So, I don't know if my imagination is playing with me. Well, I know my imagination is not playing games with me because I don't drink any alcohol whatsoever, nor do I smoke. So, I will report by tomorrow or weekend if it is truly responsive after the reset I did.
twentyggs, as for the hard reset, I truly need to practice that just sitting on a chair and stepping on an imaginary pedal and watching the seconds, before actually doing it in my car. I hear timing is the key to getting that right. Some people have gotten it for their first time after like 5 to 7 attempts. I don't know if one keeps on getting it wrong, your check engine light stays on!!! Is that true? Then that sucks. But I will give it a shot maybe before the end of the week.
Any 6thgen R2c owners, feel free to take a pic of yours under your hood and post pics and share reviews. Even if you are a 7thgen and happen to stop by here, feel free to post pics of your R2c and give your review.
for ex. when it says to wait 7 seconds, it will work fine if you do it in 8 or 9 and maybe even 10 seconds. just don't go under the 7 seconds. and don't worry, if you mess up, its no biggie just turn the key off and start over again.