cheese20323

So my car has been making alot of noises so far. 1 When you turn to the right on sharp turns it makes a pop sound just one. What im thinking is one of the struts boots? Oh and the brakes are making some nasty screeching. They werent doing it before i took it to get the pads changed. But what i did notice is the "mechanic" wasn able to take off the Caliper on my rear wheels so what his dumbass did was sand them down thing the screech would stop. and then he wasnt able to take off the caliper he just loosened the 2 top screws and was able to ler it down . What i didnt like at all was the he took off the bleeder valve and pushed the brake piston in to take of the pads. A **** load of barke fluid came out and from what i saw he never put it back in. My back brakes are pretty much useless. And its making a grinding when i brake and on takeoff too. so what I was going to do is bleed the brakes and change the rear rotors because the fronts are new. So do you guys think that him pushing the piston in was the problem and i should just bleed it and it should fix it? And what brake Fluid is recommended? And how do you bleed the brakes lol?

Stormzusmc

iTrader: (17)

If the **** isnt bleed correctly then yes that would be an issue....

What kind of "mechanic" is this...?

cheese20323

A shop we took it too iguess they had like a noob as a mechanic never going there again i was gonna take it their for suspension upgrades and yeah i dont want my wheels flying.

And what do you mean ****?

Stormzusmc

iTrader: (17)

**** was the naughty word for crap...

But yeah if the brake system is not bled correctly then it needs to be done first. If that doesn't work the calipers could be sticking.

As far as the clunk, it could be many things. From struts, tie rod ends, end link, ball joint etc. Best thing to do it take your wheel off and look at the crap there.

cheese20323

Done that before tie rods look goods and axles too im guessing struts thanks for your help...1 more Q to bled them i just need like a container connect it to the valve and press away till its dry then just fill it up until it drips tighten and continue on to the next?

Stormzusmc

iTrader: (17)

You can youtube/google search the procedure. That would be better then me trying to explain.

Kryogen

lol yamanjust change the strut boots lol ****ing mechanic bled thebrakes withthe scr ew for bleeder open loL

cheese20323

lol no i gotta fix my brakes on the weekend im ordering my fluids and all that jaz hopefully it gets their at the same time with my SE-r Bumper.

1hawaii50

iTrader: (14)

I really don't think your "strut boots" would cause your suspension to pop. You're looking at either struts, strut mounts, ball joints, end links, or tie rods. As far as bleeding the brakes, get a friend to help you....start at the caliper farthest from the master cylinder, and go from there. Just make sure you DO NOT run the master cylinder dry.

As far as the moron you initially took the car to, if he didn't tighten the bleeder screw on the caliper, then you currently wouldn't have any brakes at all, you would have lost all of your fluid by now.

My last suggestion, is go to Sears, and pick up a small set of tools, and change your own brakes...one of the easiest things you can do.

cheese20323

Ball joints and endlinks are good but i do not know about the tie rods because it doesnt pop all the time. Im buying the fluid today and changing it tomorrow. And i have tools but not like the air tools just regular wrenches and sockets. I have changed the suspension on my brothers car to coilovers and it wasnt hard but for some reason on this car the brake screws were hard af so i just took it to the shop since thy have air tools supposably.

1hawaii50

iTrader: (14)

Go to Sears and get yourself a good breaker bar...you don't need air tools.