Who can diagnose my problem?
#1
Who can diagnose my problem?
2007 maxima with cvt, 52k miles.
upon normal acceleration when the car is at about 20 mph and 2k on the tach the car bogs down. it is a similar feel to driving a manual and going from 1st gear right to 3rd gear. theres slight vibration as well. i had this problem and took my car to nissan.
OK heres a little history of my car. July 15 i brought it to nissan and they swapped out my cvt. i also found out i needed an air/fuel ratio sensor. that was swapped out too. fast forward to yesterday and i had the maf sensor swapped out. STILL having the same problem.
if anyone knows what the hell is wrong please let me know. i appreciate any and all help.
upon normal acceleration when the car is at about 20 mph and 2k on the tach the car bogs down. it is a similar feel to driving a manual and going from 1st gear right to 3rd gear. theres slight vibration as well. i had this problem and took my car to nissan.
OK heres a little history of my car. July 15 i brought it to nissan and they swapped out my cvt. i also found out i needed an air/fuel ratio sensor. that was swapped out too. fast forward to yesterday and i had the maf sensor swapped out. STILL having the same problem.
if anyone knows what the hell is wrong please let me know. i appreciate any and all help.
#2
Well, if the Dealership cannot see anything with their computer, yet you replaced your sensors, then I would be looking at the combustion chamber itself.
I am thinking that maybe your combustion chamber needs a cleaning since your sensors would have been sending incorrect data to the ECU and then ECU would then be sending the incorrect amount of fuel, due to faulting air readings, to the combustion chamber. This would lead to an incomplete burn in the combustion chamber. An incomplete burn brings about carbon buildup in the combustion chamber. Carbon buildup changes the dynamics of the combustion chamber. This might be what your are feeling.
Course of Action: Seafoam the combustion chamber. See Chernmax's youtube video regarding the procedure. A can of Seafoam is $10. It is cheap to do and it might be just the trick for you.
If it is not that, then some sensor is sending incorrect data to the ECU. You will most likely have to wait until you get an error code indicating that.
I am thinking that maybe your combustion chamber needs a cleaning since your sensors would have been sending incorrect data to the ECU and then ECU would then be sending the incorrect amount of fuel, due to faulting air readings, to the combustion chamber. This would lead to an incomplete burn in the combustion chamber. An incomplete burn brings about carbon buildup in the combustion chamber. Carbon buildup changes the dynamics of the combustion chamber. This might be what your are feeling.
Course of Action: Seafoam the combustion chamber. See Chernmax's youtube video regarding the procedure. A can of Seafoam is $10. It is cheap to do and it might be just the trick for you.
If it is not that, then some sensor is sending incorrect data to the ECU. You will most likely have to wait until you get an error code indicating that.
#4
Well..should be quite noticeable. If you were having an incomplete burn, then that could cause problems for your Cat. If ther are no emssion codes, then the only way is to take it off an have a looks.
Just a question, if you run the car in manual mode, does it have the lag when you roll through the gears as well?
Just a question, if you run the car in manual mode, does it have the lag when you roll through the gears as well?
#5
Yes it does.
Well..should be quite noticeable. If you were having an incomplete burn, then that could cause problems for your Cat. If ther are no emssion codes, then the only way is to take it off an have a looks.
Just a question, if you run the car in manual mode, does it have the lag when you roll through the gears as well?
Just a question, if you run the car in manual mode, does it have the lag when you roll through the gears as well?
#6
Hmm...no easy answer, i.e., smoking gun.
Well, there is something going on with the combustion. Whether it is a physical issue (carbon buildup/clogged fuel injector), or it is emission/sensor issue (improper data being sent to the EUC and the ECU is trying to accommodate). From my experinece, the latter is very tough to figure out without spending $$$, electrical issues are generally always a PITA, and you are just better of to wait until you have a failure of the sensor.
If I were you, I would (1) take the battery out of the car for the day (2+ hours) and re-install so the ecu is reset. I would also check the spark plugs...make sure they have the proper gap (get a gap measuring tool). Just check the front bank. If you see issues, then get on the rear bank. Just because it says our plugs are good for 100k miles does not mean they will all make the journey. If all is good, then start looking at the injectors, keeping in mind that one or more of your emission sensors could be on its way out...thus sending faulty info to the ecu and the ecu is trying to adjust.
At the age (mileage) of your car, these are things that are decent to start looking at, so don't get too wigged out. It is just routine maintenance. It will be a process of elimination until you discover the issue.
Well, there is something going on with the combustion. Whether it is a physical issue (carbon buildup/clogged fuel injector), or it is emission/sensor issue (improper data being sent to the EUC and the ECU is trying to accommodate). From my experinece, the latter is very tough to figure out without spending $$$, electrical issues are generally always a PITA, and you are just better of to wait until you have a failure of the sensor.
If I were you, I would (1) take the battery out of the car for the day (2+ hours) and re-install so the ecu is reset. I would also check the spark plugs...make sure they have the proper gap (get a gap measuring tool). Just check the front bank. If you see issues, then get on the rear bank. Just because it says our plugs are good for 100k miles does not mean they will all make the journey. If all is good, then start looking at the injectors, keeping in mind that one or more of your emission sensors could be on its way out...thus sending faulty info to the ecu and the ecu is trying to adjust.
At the age (mileage) of your car, these are things that are decent to start looking at, so don't get too wigged out. It is just routine maintenance. It will be a process of elimination until you discover the issue.
#7
thank you very much for you help. i tried to take a video with my cell phone. watch at about 30 seconds how the tach jumps as im slowing down. i dont know if that could help in diagnosing the problem.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vwSMn4_FqqE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vwSMn4_FqqE
Hmm...no easy answer, i.e., smoking gun.
Well, there is something going on with the combustion. Whether it is a physical issue (carbon buildup/clogged fuel injector), or it is emission/sensor issue (improper data being sent to the EUC and the ECU is trying to accommodate). From my experinece, the latter is very tough to figure out without spending $$$, electrical issues are generally always a PITA, and you are just better of to wait until you have a failure of the sensor.
If I were you, I would (1) take the battery out of the car for the day (2+ hours) and re-install so the ecu is reset. I would also check the spark plugs...make sure they have the proper gap (get a gap measuring tool). Just check the front bank. If you see issues, then get on the rear bank. Just because it says our plugs are good for 100k miles does not mean they will all make the journey. If all is good, then start looking at the injectors, keeping in mind that one or more of your emission sensors could be on its way out...thus sending faulty info to the ecu and the ecu is trying to adjust.
At the age (mileage) of your car, these are things that are decent to start looking at, so don't get too wigged out. It is just routine maintenance. It will be a process of elimination until you discover the issue.
Well, there is something going on with the combustion. Whether it is a physical issue (carbon buildup/clogged fuel injector), or it is emission/sensor issue (improper data being sent to the EUC and the ECU is trying to accommodate). From my experinece, the latter is very tough to figure out without spending $$$, electrical issues are generally always a PITA, and you are just better of to wait until you have a failure of the sensor.
If I were you, I would (1) take the battery out of the car for the day (2+ hours) and re-install so the ecu is reset. I would also check the spark plugs...make sure they have the proper gap (get a gap measuring tool). Just check the front bank. If you see issues, then get on the rear bank. Just because it says our plugs are good for 100k miles does not mean they will all make the journey. If all is good, then start looking at the injectors, keeping in mind that one or more of your emission sensors could be on its way out...thus sending faulty info to the ecu and the ecu is trying to adjust.
At the age (mileage) of your car, these are things that are decent to start looking at, so don't get too wigged out. It is just routine maintenance. It will be a process of elimination until you discover the issue.
#10
No, hooking up the code reader is not the way to sort this out. There is no CEL, so you need someone with some experience. You need a mechanic that has seen this before of has dealt with similar issues.
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