Hey so now that you guys have been nice enough to answer my other thread and questions I have a new idea in my head. A cold air intake. Can you guys give me some name brands I should go with for the 2008 Maxi? I decided to not go with the exhaust bc I do not want my name to change to Humberto V Moron the 2nd. That's what my buddy's said they would call me if I got one. So all just stick with a cold air intake and call it a day. Please help a brother out with all the right nessicary advice. Thanks all..

 

R2C.

 

I don't see you getting nice results like you did with your other thread

 

Why don't you post something more useful rather then your ignorant unessicary response dude? I would think after 2,000 post you be able to be more matture and give a more accurate answer .

 

Nothing is more immature then a "whats the best intake" thread. Its been covered a million times, your just spamming the org at this point.

You already have a rep of creating dumb/useless threads and even have created multiple threads about the same thing

 

Right man, just keep your thoughts to your self because I sure as heck don't care because your just a 2000 maxima spamming your BS on my 6th gen forum section. Take a hike!

 

I'm some what still new to this site being a senior member at that. If I am spamming it is not on purpose I just have bad memory and can't recall asking certain covered questions I respect my maxima peers there always good to me with advice and more . No need to be a a$$ about stuff 2000 maxima king just trying to learn here

 

You do everything your buddy's tell you to do?? I feel sorry for you, you're like a battered woman.

 

Haha a battered woman? Dont think I'm like a battered woman just say I got some close freinds and I trust and value there opinion. I also value this community's opinion as well so I may do a exhaust . Just want the best bang for my buck. Do any of you know if bolting on the exhaust on our cars is like a 30 minitue job or a couple hour job?

 

Whats I'm just a 2000 max even mean? Do you mean I have a 5th gen so I shouldn't post here?

What would what car I have anything to did with this anyway? You want some advice, make a custom 3" intake. Make sure your intake is a TOTAL 31.5" meaning including the elbow so basically from the plenum all the way to the filter 31.5". This length has been calculated to resonant at the right rpms for optimal peak power at the right rpm. The vq35 has a long elbow so getting that length of an intake shouldn't be hard. Also, hit up ebay and get a 3" blox velocity stack and a 6"filter to match. You can go 3.5" intake but that would mean upgrading to a bigger MAF which would be more then what your probably looking to do.

 

Alright Thanks! Thats the kind of talk I was wanting to hear out of ya. I will consider some of those things. I just want the VQ to scream its A$$ OFF. My freinds 2005 3.5SL Altima thinks he can take me on the race track. He's only got a magnaflo exhaust system

 

Ok just don't make a MAX VS ALTIMA thread next

Btw what kind of exhaust you have has nothing to do with anything but sound almost, if its a brand name exhaust and its a good design thats going to flow well then its fine. The right thing would be to get the right size piping, mandrel bent, quality, etc. Plus I don't think you'll see much gains with an intake and/or exhaust by itself. Get a Y-pipe first that's the best bang for your buck mod.

 

I had a Fujita in my '04 for several years, then I ran into the R2c guys at a local meet. I was the test car for the 6th Gen system. Their product showed some significant gains over the Fujita.

http://www.r2cperformance.com/contact_us/default.aspx

Their # is at the very bottom. Call and ask for Ed in sales. They were having a sale, but I'm not sure if it's still going on. Won't hurt to ask!

 

Dude, just report... its against the forum rules for members to constantly disrupt and make personally attacks like they do. its best to ignore and report them. they feed off your agitated reply's like f****** mosquitoes. They are forum trolls bro, meaning the ****-talking > car-talking. otherwise they wouldn't have just started talking sh** over valid topic. performance parts change constantly so there is nothing wrong with you asking about it. Second, if it was a strict rule that you can't post on an already posted topic, this site would max out and be 0% active. not unless a weird new problem that no one knows anything about arises.

you just need to search and make sure your exact question has not been answered, or the topic wasn't just covered last week, know what im sayin? You are good man. don't worry about these tools, there is nothing you can do about it other than help them catch the eye of the admins.

report to DanNy directly if its constant from one member, or just press the report button. the banhammer will fall sooner or later of those people are a problem.

and for everyone else please report as well, just click the little red triangle on the left side. this place could be way nicer if the hand full of e-jerk members were banned.



back to topic, i agree with 2000_maxima_King all the way, go with custom.

there is no reason to be spending 260 bucks on a brand name filter. the filter being the core component of a CAI, a 60 dollar filter from a performance website or even from autozone uses the same material and has the same breathability of a 300 dollar setup.

the piping doesn't do anything for performance (as long as its smooth inside) you can get a generic aluminum piping for 20 bucks that fits the contours of your engine bay on ebay, or a short one with elbow for a sri at autozone, a filter for 40-60, and your set up with a great CAI, or SRI for well under 100.

heck i have even seen people swap out the box filter for a cone filter and leave everything else stock. They still see gains on the butt dyno and MPG too, so its possible to have an effective sri for under 50 bucks.

 

OP, just search next time. There are hundreds of threads on this topic.

And paying for a pre-assembled filter, like 2000_MAX said, is ridiculous. I built my own out of a Z-tube, AEM Dryflow filter, MAF adapter and Blox Velocity stack for just under $200.

It could've been cheaper if I hadn't bought the Dryflow filter. They're expensive. Worth every penny, though.

twentyeggs...toughen up. Don't take things so damn personally. Part of being a member of this forum is having a thick skin. If you can't handle it, I'm sure Nico Club would welcome you with open arms.

I bet you wouldn't last a day in OT.

 

Clam down bro you're starting to sound real butthurt, NOT GOOD. I've already stated why these kind of threads get bashed and its a valid reason to be honest.

Its simple, first educate yourself on the subject, then search the ORG and see what everyone's been doing, their results, and what info you can gather, then IF and only IF you have a specific question about something that wasn't covered or a detail that isn't clear then post a thread. You can probably get most of your answers from pm's, I have learned a lot from pm'ing guys who I seen seemed knowledgeable about a subject after I searched and found they were the one's who posted the info or answers in the past.

Agreed.

 

can't we just all..... get along?! lol

i entered OT ONCE, and only once. I stay away from that part of the .org like its the plague.

your right i'd blow a gasket spending any more than 5 min in there... lol

 

i agree with ya man.

i just saw that Rsprince was getting irritated and wanted to give him a little bit of helpful advice before anything got out of hand.

things escalate real quick here.

 

Things don't really escalate, someone post a comment and then the OP goes off is usually how it happens. I don't really get it at times, people make threads then someone posts and they just go off as if they are emotionally attached to the thread, its pretty funny at times how someone can get so upset over posts on the internet shows you where peoples heads are today.

 

the only thing i want to add, is i believe that CAI produce less HP and economy than SRI.

the big factor for this opinion is friction/resistance.

take a straw and suck air through it. then cut that straw in half and repeat. you will see that it is SIGNIFICANTLY easier to suck air through the straw cut in half. same principle applies with SRI and CAI. The CAI is significantly longer than a SRI and will produce much more friction making it harder to suck in the air. Unless you get a huge 6" tube this will apply. Cars suck in HUGE amounts of air, hundred of times more air in one min than you breath in a couple hours. 3" piping will create noticeable resistance under WOT per foot of length.

i had a sri in my last max, bought a CAI and it made my car slower and sound like the noise was coming through a straw, sounded like a civic. so i switched back. SRI sounds better.

the only catch to this is the temperature of the air. CAI make up for the increased resistance to flow by gathering "colder denser" air. BUT by how many degrees? 10? 15? significant? not really unless your not moving allowing the engine air to get stagnant..

to counter this, it is not hard to remove the stock air box stuff and have free access to cold air. You can put a heat shield in to wall off engine air, and even put a small air scoop under you car where the CAI would go to scoop up air and direct it straight to your SRI filter. You also would not need to worry about hydro locking. now THAT is significant..

i believe roughly 80% of the power gains in an aftermarket intake come from the increased breathability, 5% from the smooth piping (rather than an accordian like elbow that creates air turbulence) and another 15% in the temperature difference from under the hood to 10" lower in the bumper.

15% of a small gain in the first place is not worth getting a CAI over a SRI. especially when you can get that 15% back by heat shield and and air scoop.

just my 2 cents..

 

emotionally attached... lol you have a good detached outlook. tell tail sign of an experienced forum member.

us first time forum members could all learn from that.. im learning tho, its basically a new culture.

 

I see alot of people swear by those...

 

I live in Illinois and I hear these guys are located in illinois ?!? Thinking they'll help me put it on and give me a good deal if I drive up there?

 

I can't agree with you, especially since you seem to contradict yourself. You start by saying that the extra length of pipe from a sri to a cai adds a significant amount of friction and you end by saying smooth piping only matters 5%

IMO, friction in the piping is insignificant and can be ignored unless you have some really rough piping for some odd reason. Cold air (not to be read cai) is proven so anything to get cool air to your filter is an increase in performance, even if it is minimal in some cases its still an increase, I agree with you on that. However as far as the intake length itself is concerned, whether its (down into the fender, sri style, cai style) whatever, has to do with the engine itself; ie displacement, the plenum, resonant frequency, and many other factors. Now whether some of these factors are more significant then others thats for you to decide.

For instance I noticed considerable gains adding 4" to my intake length, now you can take this with a grain of salt if you want but if you search you'll find the same results. With the shorter intake my car seemed to be running out of breath over 4.5k rpms. With the longer intake, even though its only 4 inches, it definitely pulls way harder and can be felt above 4k rpms, and its not slowing down there anymore as it was before. Many other members seen the same gains.

 

interesting, i got the opposite effect. I guess i shouldn't have used the word significantly, a little too much, but still think the bulk of performance gains is in the filter and not the tubing.

SRI sounds best IMO, less tube like sound. does that make since? sound like the engine noise is funneled.. i know different material gives different tones, but the funneled sound is still there.

You know i do remember hearing something about a sweet spot that is created with the volume inside the intake is at a specific ration to the engine displacement. I know Ingen was doing this back in 2005ish but probably found it cost too much to calculate each cars specs and develop an intake to match the volume while still being able to fit in the engine bay. Maybe you found your sweet spot if it actually works like that.

 

Yea the sound is better with the sri's but I like the "swoop" sound of a cai as well. I'm still going to lengthen my intake some more, since my dek has basically no elbow after the plenum to the throttle body so the length is needed, relocate the battery slightly and cut into the fender eventually. But maybe in your case the length was too long. It was found for the vq (specifically the 3.5 by sparks) that a total length of 31" intake was optimal. Now when you measure this 31" you have to measure from the plenum to to filter so basically the elbow, throttle body, maf, and all intake piping; since at WOT the tb and maf are basically piping.

But I think an intake doesn't make much of a difference when its the only mod. After all other bolt ons and a tune then playing with the intake yields some good gains.

 

This issue with our Maximas and intake length is that intakes like the Injunk "CAI" is just too long to hit the resonant air frequencies required for optimal HP gains in our motors.

Couple that with the fact that it's placed directly behind the red-hot radiator, and you've pretty much got a recipe for disaster.

Honestly, the slightly shorter length of a SRI not only decreases runner length and comes closer to the resonant frequency of the intake manifold, but it also actually reduces heat soak compared to that of the Injen intake.

You also don't run the risk of turning a SRI into a drinking straw like you would with the Injen intake if you were to run over some deep puddles...

Honestly, I think the best gains have come from the following setup:

From the TB forward --> Helmholtz resonator (stock box) --> 3-4", 2.5" OD piping --> MAF --> MAF adaptor --> Velocity Stack --> Cone filter

The helmholtz res. makes the "tuned" frequency that our car's IM generates by the natural reverberation of air waves off of the walls of the IM. So you're actually probably better off leaving it on the car. Unless you're planning on going the forced induction route.

 

hit the nail on the head! that is what i was talking about. resonant frequencies. I haven't seen air intake companies do this in a while tho.. im surprised someone else knows what i was talking about. of all the intake threads i've commented on you are the first to have known what i was saying.

i have that exact same set up -the velocity stack and love it. sounds great too. very inexpensive. thanks for confirming my suspicions. i felt like a loner on this one.

i forgot about the extra length meaning just more heat soaked piping the air has to go through. kinda kills the purpose a bit.

to be honest tho we are talking insignificant things here and there. In a nut shell, CAI/SRI they are both good. SRI maybe slightly better for the "resonant frequencies" and heat soak, safer too.. (in NorCal when it pours chances are you WILL see dead in the puddle ricers)

in conclusion, buying a brand name CAI/SRI is like buying a gold plated BOP. its a waste of money when there are cheaper ways of easily making one custom.

 

What? its been calculated the right length for a 3" intake to hit the right resonant frequency is 31.5". I calculated it already thats why the shorter intake works on the 3.5 since it has a longer elbow and the longer works on the dek since it has a shorter elbow.

And brett the filter right on the maf is a terrible setup since A. your maf can't read a good signal and B. its too short.

2 members already dyno'd and seen gains with the longer intake length over the super short sri. Also members have seen gains over removing the helmhotz and replacing it with a midpipe. So you can't argue against the facts thats why yesterday I tossed my helmhotz in the trash because I will never use it again

Read this thread http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...l?ref=esp-link

 

Really

Again I didn't exactly say it but I was talking about it.

 

anyway..........aside from all that junk, I would definitely go with Fujita, thats what I have, sounds the best!!!

 

I just decided to buy the 5 peice thermal kit from NWP . I also decided to buy the BOP plate. Hopefully I will notice some difference afrer doing those mods

 

this

lol give this guy a break and stop being jerks fellas ...

he's new ... each and everyone one of us were noobs at one point and asked questions like these

 

Haha- thanks for that taz. Some people on here get to serious about the forum. We all make mistakes and learn from them. ( most of us anyhow) lol

 

I assume none of you read the actual posts full of info

Sometimes I feel like I'm wasting my time passing real info around, I guess opinions prevail over actual facts

 

+1

 

question by the OP what brand to get for cold air intake ...

i seriously doubt he's gonna sit there and fabricate a cold air intake ... he's still at baby steps if he doesn't even have an exhaust yet

if im correct he'd probably want a name brand intake rather then something he rigged up himself even if it does cost him a couple of ponies here and there

youre right on the dot don't get me wrong ...


the fact that he's asking what intake to get means he's still new to the whole thing ... so let him be

just my opinion

 

yeah, i see what your saying..

 

I suppose that's why my car rolled off of the production line with the MAF bolted directly behind the airbox?

 

I'm just gonna put it like this aem , nismo, fujita or k&n or r2c?