So I'm wanting my maxima engine to preform better . I was looking into buying this GF Chip. I decided against it due to the fact I hear it's better to spend $2-300 to have someone with " good software" to reprogram the engine the way you want it. Anyone know anything about this sort of thing?

 

GF chip is BS and won't do anything at all. When it comes to tuning your car you have to understand what it is your tuning and why. And stay away from ebay and their BS "chips" that give power thats nonsense! Unfortunately no one reflashes our ecus since as soon as you remove the tuning software the ecu settings go back to stock. So the only way to tune is with a "piggyback" type of tuner such as emanage ultimate, apexi vafc/safc, etc. I'm not exactly sure what the 6th gen guys are using but read this thread it describes alot about tuning http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ng-thread.html

After you read it ask some specific questions so I can clarify anything for you, good luck tuning is a pretty complex subject to a newb so it takes alot of learning

 

Okay I read alot of that stuff you sent me the link to, That all seem's to be for 5th gens tho. Is there a thread like that but for 6th gens? I need to figure out what's the best software to use to retune my ecu. I think My Max has like 255hp and 6400lbs of torque. I would like it to have 300hp and 7200 of torque. I think that would be a good ratio. But maybe it wouldnt. Wish to god I could just find someone here local to help me that has a computer and the software to do this... this is starting to seem like it might be a pain in the a$$

 

The same concepts apply to the 6th gen as do to the 5th gen, tuning is universal to many cars. They are tuning with the same units (vafc2, safc2). There are also people using haltech and other types of tuners. You can't simply take your car and get it flashed with some software its not that simple. Plus you can't just tune and get 300hp with just an intake and exhaust. Your car doesn't have 6400lbs of torque

Simple wiki- search tells you that!

 

That information is refering to the 04-06 Maximas. In 07-08 they rasied the torque from 5,800 to 6,200 or 6,400 and took the hp down to 255 whitch use to be 265. Ok so how can I tune my car to make it have more torque and hp bc thats truly what im wanting without bolt ons if possible. I will do it tho if it it comes to it.

 

These numbers are impossible your car has somewhere around 250 lb-fts of torque.

You can't get more hp just tune when you have nothing to tune. I suspect you didn't read anything I posted this is a complex subject. Its not that simple or easy. Start with boltons you're far from tuning right now.

 

I read over bits and parts dude . I think I'm going for the 5 pc thermal intake kit from NWP and there premium BOP plate. You guys think that's a good idea?

 

Look up Uprev i believe some of the 6th gen people use them. They will reprogram a stock ecu and sell you the software to tune.

 

Thats always a good idea, i think will enjoy the increase in performance. I added these parts not to long ago. Once you have added all your bolt ons i would def. recomend uprev and the osiris tuner

 

Uprev is the way to go.

 

I had the UpRev Osiris Standard w/ Cipher ECU reflashdone and don't expect to see your car throwing down 300 whp.. you will see some gains but it won't be anything crazy.

I mainly had it done as the local shop knows my tech guy so i got a nice price break.

 

To tune your car AFTER you have done enough supporting modifications, all of the above will work, but you will have to take it to a shop that specializes and has a chassis dyno. Your only other option is to "street tune" which I do not suggest, unless you have the know-how, plus in addition to your tuning mods, you will have to purchase datalogging software and A/F monitoring capability (unless you tap into, your OEM wideband), nonetheless a complex process.

 

Starting to sound really complex. Like I said before may just stick with the 5 of thermal spacer kit and bop plate from NWP

 

Not complex at all. Go to uprev.com, find an uprev dealer/shop, call them and make an appointment for a dyno tune, and go there to have the car tuned.

 

How you go from tuning to this is beyond me Your all over the place you need to read more its obvious you have no idea what tuning is, reading bits and pieces of what I posted for you is not helping you read the whole thing thats the only way you'll learn.

He has no mods, whats he tuning?

 

hey man if you know a lot about tuning could you please visit my thread. the dyno guy and the members here are confusing me.

 

Even if he has no mods, a tune on a stock car with something like Uprev will yield gains. This can be seen on the 350z/g35 cars that get reflashed with Uprev.

Sure the gains will be much more if the individual had modifications and then did a tune, but a tune on a stock car will still give more hp/tq and will make drivability much better.

 

Did you see what we posted? He wants 300HP. A tune on a stock car is not going to get you some big HP gains if any at all and it may or may not improve "drivability" whatever that's supposed to mean which is most likely an opinion from a butt dyno not a real gain. Its not a stock turbo vw/audi or something where you can reflash your ecu and see gains because the car was tuned conservatively at the factory.

 

I did not see the part where his goal was 300hp. So that is my mistake for not clearly reading the posts.

However on the note, seems like you need to do some research on Uprev and the gains it give on stock vq35 motors and how the tune "clears up" drivability issues and makes the whole power-curve much smoother. Head over to my350z.com or just google it. It is not a butt dyno feeling but actual gains with dyno graphs proving that info.

 

good info Shift Max, I did say my goal was 300hp. I would still be happy with any type of gains tho. Even if that means not having 300hp. Im getting the 5 pc thermal kit from NWP and a BOP plate. Then I will retune the car with uprev. Now all I have to do is find a person that's local or near me that knows how to correctly use the software with the car. I don't trust my self not being me car handy man
Keep those responses coming guys.. Thank you

 

Well then you might as well do the SSIM as well. And here you got for a list of Uprev tuners.
http://uprev.com/dealers.php

 

I understand the gains, I can do the same with my mkv VW get 10hp gains using higher octane, smoothen out the curve, get rid of tb lag, etc just from a tune. But whats the point of spending 300-500 on a tune with no mods since after you get the mods your going to have to retune? I see it happen all the time, people send out there ecu, get a tune, love it and less then a month later they are getting bolt ons and have to retune and end up regretting it most of the time. The OP has posted multiple threads about bolt ons, thats why I'm emphasizing to him to get those bolt ons first then tune. He seems to have little knowledge on the subject thats why hes asking all these questions. Now if he was knowledgeable and decided to tune knowing what it would do I wouldn't say a thing to stray him away from it.

I have full bolt ons for my car and still haven't tuned, even though I would love to but I've decided to go FI with the car, so I'm waiting to tune then with a small street tune and then one good dyno tune to get it where I want. Its the only reason I didn't pull the trigger on all the afc's on the market for the low low right now because I'm going to regret it when I go FI and need something better like the EU.

 

Good stuff 2000. Basically do what mods your gonnna do and then re tune. The end. I get it now

 

Hey shift when you said "Well then you might as well do the SSIM as well.". What's the SSIM stand for?

 

secret sauce intake manifold

 

i've seen threads where reliable people ex. churnmax leaves the SSIM with something to be desired. it only kicks in with noticable gains close to red line. for 800 bucks? worth it?

i wouldn't think so.

another thread yeilded this with dyno results. im sorry for 800 bucks that ridiculous. what a waste of money. you can't even feel that.


here is another dyno sheet


i understand there are all these people saying its no good without a tune, but seriously, lets say the tune actually does eliminate the mid range loss, what a waste. if it cost something like 50 bucks then i'd say worth it.

 

Sparks seen some good gains with a SSIM on his 5.5gen maxima but he custom made it and he seen huge gains it put him at 285 at the wheels, iirc he seen something like 20hp gains

You have to factor in though that he made a 3.5" elbow and a whole 3.5" intake to go with it also.

OP I wouldn't even consider a SSIM at this point if I were you. Focus on bolt ons first SSIM is expensive and like twenty said the ones on the market haven't really showed "worth" it gains from what I've seen.

 

damn thats really good for a modded IM.

props to sparks..

 

You don't need to tune a car every time you add a bolt on. That's just a load of crap that sketchy tuners will tell people. The only time you need a retune is if you change something in the head of the motor, swap to a different size turbo, increase injector size, or something along those lines. Wasting $150-$200 on having a tuner "make necessary adjustments" just because you throw on a cat-back is nonsense.

And stay away from any piggyback AFC you come across.
#1 They are a total waste of money, the tuning parameters are so wide you'll never make fine enough adjustments to improve anything
#2 Even if you lean out your AFr's to optimal settings, with out the ability to make adjustments to timing, you're not doing much for performance.

 

I just picked up an 07 maxima for a new daily last week. All of the dyno claims for parts on this car are wildly un-believable. 12-15hp at the wheels with an intake? Come on, my 07 350z made the exact same power it did before and after I installed a set of crappy fujita dual short rams why would this car be any different? 12hp from just a mid-pipe on a stock exhaust?

Does anyone have any real dyno's (like the one twentyeggs posted) that I can take a look at?

I have plans to lower and throw a set of wheels on this maxima, but I'm curious to see if there's any point in doing anything else.

 

No one said you have to tune after every bolton. He has no boltons at all so why would he tune now and then get boltons?

Also, there are people who TC/SC their maximas and are able to get away with just tuning with an afc. Not saying I recommend it but it can be done, there are ways that you can adjust timing indirectly. Plus the only way to tune most cars with no compatible "software tunes" is with a piggyback type of tuner and for simple boltons an afc is enough and perfectly fine.

 

Dyno claims for any car mods are always exaggerated.

There are plenty of mods that increase hp. Did you even look through the forum or search for anything specific you wanted to do?

An intake can yield gains when complimented with other breathing mods but by itself it does little to nothing.

And btw you just thread jacked, you can search through the 6th gen section of the forums and find plenty of information. I suggest you do that before posting any threads that would get bashed for info that is readily available.

 

So I've been calling around and I'm still getting conflicting info.. I am going to need a tune in February because I'm going f/I but one shop will say I need a piggyback for an uprev tune and others say no, that uprev reflashes the ecu permanently.

Does anyone know if there are two different options for uprev? Already goin to be spending 5k cause I'm going with turbonetics. And I dont want to spend another 250 on a controller And 500 for the tune unless I have to..

 

Bro if uprev is a flash then why would you need a piggyback? Cmon man use common sense here. Plus what are you getting tuned for anyway if your going FI, you don't even make sense at this point you're all over the place.

 

How do you adjust timing indirectly?

 

Bigger injectors and leaning out the afr.

 

If you live in cali then your in a state that has some of the best tuners in the country. Stop by one of their shops and ask what they are most comfortable to tune with. Most likely they will tell you to stay away from anything like an SAFC unless you want a blow motor. E-manage is the only acceptable piggy-back I have ever seen (for non-German vehicles), and even that can be finicky.

Don't go full stand alone if you ever want to pass emissions again. In ATL it's $450-600 to pay off inspectors for OBD-II vehicles. It could be higher where u live.

Reflash software is by far the cleanest, easiest, and most reliable way to get a vehicle tuned. If you buy the UpRev software I would go with the "Osiris Tuner" package. That way you can get your car tuned in the exact conditions that it will be running in, with the exact mods you will be using. Plus if ECU resets its-self then you can just hook up your laptop to your OBD-II port and load your tune back in.

 

You won't blow your motor with an SAFC

If you don't know what you're doing then you can blow your motor with any piggyback, sounds like you tried to tune with a SAFC once without actual knowledge and blew your motor.

The best tune is to take a piggyback to a dyno and tune it there. A flash, while it is a good tune, its usually conservative since its not specific to your actual car. Not necessarily talking about UpRev since I'm not familiar with its process but for example many of the 4th gen guys used piggybacks to optimize their JWT ecu tune they had got flashed for even more gains.

 

***** that just hurt my head.

Look dude, a car's ECU comes pre-programmed from the factory with values for the maximum amount of ignition timing retard, and ignition timing advance.

For example, lets use a Skyline GTR R34 ignition table

Across the top you have the RPM, ranging from 800 to the 9200 RPM redline
Down the side of the table you have the engine load, or PIM load. In a nut shell, this is how hard your mashing the accelerator. It's a lot more complicated than that, but I don't want to write a 5 page essay.

Now in the middle you have cells with numbers in them, these are your target ignition cells. So at 800rpm while the engine is idling with 0 load, the most the ecu can advance the ignition timing is by 22 degrees. However, the engine can decrease or "retard" timing as much as it needs if knock is detected. The more timing is advanced, the more torque you will produce, and as a result hp will increase as well. These settings are set very low from factory to ensure the highest reliability in all circumstances; from the engine operation on 93 octane right a sea level, all the way to a 110 degree desert with a tank full of 87 crap gas. Now I know that I'm never going to drive through the desert, and I'm always going to use 93 oct. So with software such as this one, it is possible to optimize the ignition values to allow much more timing than the factory settings.



This is an injector map, it has to do with target AFR by controlling the milliseconds in which the injector is open. Now the factory target AFr's will be much more aggressive from a performance standpoint than the factory target ignition values. Granted, they won't be 100% on point for maximum torque/HP across the RPM range, but they will be not too far off. This is because the amount of air going into your motor will be a know value no matter where in the world you are, thanks to sophisticated devices such as the MAP & temp sensors in the RB26 motor; Or the MAF sensor used in the Maxima.

The two adjustments are separate in their own respects. Now, knock can occur if the air fuel ratio is leaned out too far, which will result in the ECU pulling back timing and possibly blowing a motor. But it is physically impossible to adjust ignition timing any other way than through the ignition table in picture one.

 

I've never tuned a piggy back before, I knew better than to get one. I have seen tons of people use SAFC's on boosted motors. Every single one of them broke something. You spend all this money building a motor, just to cheap out on the most important piece of an engine. Its always the same excuse too, "but I know a guy who knows a guy that uses one, and he's never had a problem." That's a great story and all, but at the end of the day it's your $3k repair bill.