6th Generation Maxima (2004-2008) Discussion of the 6th generation Maxima. Come see what others are saying.

Major hick up in my engine swap

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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 07:34 PM
  #1  
mrjasonlyrics's Avatar
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Major hick up in my engine swap

Okay so I have a little hick-up with my engine swap. Went to take my new clutch to the mechanic today to find out there is a difference between a manual and automatic engine besides the flywheel or what ever little things you have to transfer.

Talking to the mechanic and watching the motor he noticed that the crank sensor is location is in different location on the both engines. The old engine crank sensor is located in the 6 o'clock position and the newer automatic crack sensor is located in the 9 o'clock. I'm kinda cheesed and fed-up because I was looking for a manual engine and he said that the automatic will work he just have to transfer a few things which he wouldn't charge.

He said it will work but he'll have to charge me labour to switch the oil pans. So if there is anyone out there who have ever done a automatic engine swap in a manual 6thgen who can give some advice on how to fix this issue i'd appreciate it. Still grinding my teeth because he said it will work no problem

I ain't gonna lie racing is sucking me dry. I'm gonna lay off the racing thing for a while and go back to my show mode with bodykit and big rims. I had enough money spending for now

If your name rhyms with spaz and you got any numbers between 75 and 77 in your username please don't respond to this thread!!! I don't want your opinions,criticism or advice. Thanks in advance...
Old Apr 11, 2012 | 08:27 PM
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Do the tensioners while the engine is out. It will save you a boatload of money in the long run.
Old Apr 11, 2012 | 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by mrjasonlyrics
Okay so I have a little hick-up with my engine swap. Went to take my new clutch to the mechanic today to find out there is a difference between a manual and automatic engine besides the flywheel or what ever little things you have to transfer.

Talking to the mechanic and watching the motor he noticed that the crank sensor is location is in different location on the both engines. The old engine crank sensor is located in the 6 o'clock position and the newer automatic crack sensor is located in the 9 o'clock. I'm kinda cheesed and fed-up because I was looking for a manual engine and he said that the automatic will work he just have to transfer a few things which he wouldn't charge.

He said it will work but he'll have to charge me labour to switch the oil pans. So if there is anyone out there who have ever done a automatic engine swap in a manual 6thgen who can give some advice on how to fix this issue i'd appreciate it. Still grinding my teeth because he said it will work no problem

I ain't gonna lie racing is sucking me dry. I'm gonna lay off the racing thing for a while and go back to my show mode with bodykit and big rims. I had enough money spending for now

If your name rhyms with spaz and you got any numbers between 75 and 77 in your username please don't respond to this thread!!! I don't want your opinions,criticism or advice. Thanks in advance...

Glad to see that you will be soon back up and running!
Old Apr 12, 2012 | 06:09 AM
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There is one guy that I know of that did a 5spd automatic to 6spd manual conversion, let me find his name, maybe he can help........... NiZMo1o1

Last edited by Apollos2; Apr 12, 2012 at 06:25 AM.
Old Apr 12, 2012 | 06:41 AM
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Aight man. PM me or if he have a thread let me know. Not sure if it's a 4spd or 5spd but I'm not to happy with the paying to for extra labour especially when he said it will work.
Old Apr 12, 2012 | 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by L36
Do the tensioners while the engine is out. It will save you a boatload of money in the long run.
+1 on getting the tensioners done while the engine is out and since you still need to swap out the upper oil pan. It will save you a lot of money down the road.

Most engines, auto to manual swap is just a matter of swapping the flywheel assembly that bolts to the crankshaft. Unfortunately, on the 6th gen it is a little bit more involved than that but not by much. Swap out the upper oil pan and install the flywheel assembly and everything else should be the same. I know this engine can also be fitted into the 5th gen so installing into another 6th gen is not that big of a deal.
Old Apr 12, 2012 | 05:36 PM
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When my transmission goes on my 6th gen I will be looking into a 6 speed swap. thats the only thing about my car I wish was different.

good luck on the swap, keep us posted. this is interesting to me for sure.
Old Apr 12, 2012 | 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by nsnrider
+1 on getting the tensioners done while the engine is out and since you still need to swap out the upper oil pan. It will save you a lot of money down the road.

Most engines, auto to manual swap is just a matter of swapping the flywheel assembly that bolts to the crankshaft. Unfortunately, on the 6th gen it is a little bit more involved than that but not by much. Swap out the upper oil pan and install the flywheel assembly and everything else should be the same. I know this engine can also be fitted into the 5th gen so installing into another 6th gen is not that big of a deal.
The mechanic knows what to do. I'm just cheesed that he didn't know before he told me automatic works on a manual, he just have to transfer a few things. Then say he would have to charge labour to switch the oil pan when I was fully trying to find a manual engine.

He said it took him about 3hrs so I'll probably pay him one because I'm not responsible for that. I just wanted to know if there was a way to by-pass switching the oil pan and charging me 3 hrs labour. But he already swapped it out
Old Apr 12, 2012 | 05:59 PM
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Good Luck Man and that is Fcuked with the Labor deal...
Old Apr 12, 2012 | 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by mrjasonlyrics
The mechanic knows what to do. I'm just cheesed that he didn't know before he told me automatic works on a manual, he just have to transfer a few things. Then say he would have to charge labour to switch the oil pan when I was fully trying to find a manual engine.

He said it took him about 3hrs so I'll probably pay him one because I'm not responsible for that. I just wanted to know if there was a way to by-pass switching the oil pan and charging me 3 hrs labour. But he already swapped it out

yo, if that is what he told you then he should be responsible for the extra labor. Mechanics should only charge you for unforseen problems in addition to his main task (after he asks your permission of coarse). they should NOT charge you because they made a mistake and ordered the wrong part. that is their responsibility and their mistake. What they are doing, is making YOU pay for their mistake. what crap, absorbing their inexperience and/or carelessness into their clients... shameful
Old Apr 12, 2012 | 09:10 PM
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I thought a different ECU was needed as well? Just popped up in my head so unsure.
Old Apr 13, 2012 | 05:22 AM
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I agree. I mean he transferred a lot of things but that's what I paid him for. He did a lot but suggesting chargine labour made the deal sour. The guy I bought the engine from said it's not his problem because I told him my mechanic said the automatic engine will work, just have to transfer a few things. I thought it may of had a by-pass but I guess there isn't

He already did the swap and he said it will be ready for pick-up today. I'm just gonna go with what he charged and say I have no extra money because I'm broke. I don't mid giving a him a lil extra because he did a lot of work free of charge. Atleast now he knows so he can inform is future customers.

Younger engine,spacers,new clutch,spark plugs,PCV valve, and I'm talking off the heavy lambo doors and she what she runs on the 1/4mile.
Old Apr 13, 2012 | 08:36 PM
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I'm guessing you pick up 1 tenth unless you actually launch it. A 2.3 60 foot on drag radials is really bad man. 2.2 60 foot is pretty much the average for basic street tires. Break the clutch in properly then go turn some 1.9 60 foot times and run 13's.
Old Apr 22, 2012 | 11:14 AM
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I'm on the hunt for a new engine to install in my current 6mt and this post helps with the changes that I will face..

So, off tops the changes will be:

1. Swap upper/lower oil pan from my current 6mt motor to new one.
2. Swap flywheels along with getting the flywheel turned (not racing so no need to up grade to the lightweight unit)
3. May invest in a stage 1 clutch (the current one is a sub par non oem clutch).
4. If replacing with motor older than 07, will replace TC tensioners
5. If older than 07, replace rear valve cover gasket and plugs

Chime in if you see that I have missed something..
Old Apr 22, 2012 | 11:40 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by BlackSpeed
I'm on the hunt for a new engine to install in my current 6mt and this post helps with the changes that I will face..

So, off tops the changes will be:

1. Swap upper/lower oil pan from my current 6mt motor to new one.
2. Swap flywheels along with getting the flywheel turned (not racing so no need to up grade to the lightweight unit)
3. May invest in a stage 1 clutch (the current one is a sub par non oem clutch).
4. If replacing with motor older than 07, will replace TC tensioners
5. If older than 07, replace rear valve cover gasket and plugs

Chime in if you see that I have missed something..
Sound spot on except for a few things.
-If you don't intend to race you should look into the Exedy OE clutch, it feels similar to the OEM when it gets broken into.
- The crank sensor is different from the manual and automatic so he might charge you extra labour to swap out the oil pan.
-Tensioners is a good idea but that might be more labour.
-You don't necessarily need to change the pulley but the belts should be replaced.
-The 07-08 motor won't work, you need a 04-06
-Good idea to change the spark plugs, PCV valve, and if you're looking into gaskets the spacers might be an option and while you're there a BOP could be done too.

Otherewise everything should be fine.
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