The dreaded "Service Engine Soon" Light
08-23-2013, 06:23 AM
#1
Newbie - Just Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 2
The dreaded "Service Engine Soon" Light
Help a girl out! I've been lurking on these forums for years, but please forgive me if I don't have the common car knowledge so many of you seem to have and I sound like a complete dolt. I've tried to read a lot about this but there's so much conflicting information.
I have a 2004 Maxima with 205K miles. I've kept up with all repairs and maintenance.
The "service engine soon" light came on a few weeks ago. I assumed it was the gas cap, took it off, put it back on, but the light stayed on for my entire commute, around 70 miles.
So the next day I went to the dealer to run the codes. I didn't write down the codes, unfortunately, but he said one was for the rear 02 sensor and one was for the fuel, and that I needed a new catalytic convertor. He said they normally replace them every 50k miles. (WHAT?) And that'd be $1200.
Then this morning I filled my car up and the light went off after driving about two miles. This is the first time it's went off since it came on. Aside from $20 here and there, this was the first time I filled my car up since the "service engine soon" light came on.
My thoughts:
If it's the gas cap, that's a really long time to reset itself. Unless filling it up is what caused it to reset itself?
If the rear 02 sensor is throwing off a code, why aren't we replacing the rear 02 sensor before we jump to catalytic convertor?
This car is probably due for a catalytic convertor at 205k miles.
BUT, the gas mileage is still just as good as ever, and there are none of the other classic signs of a bad cat.
I'm getting a new car in six months and not dropping $1200 on this one would be really nice.
I can wait it out to see if it comes back on.
I can get a new cc at the dealer.
Or I can take it to a muffler shop or some other mechanic that charges 1/3 the price of the dealership (but are those cc's just as good?)
Thoughts? I really don't know which was to go here and I'm not knowledgeable enough about this issue to really make a decision on my own. And my dealer has given me enough reason to believe they see me and my checkbook coming from a mile away.
I have a 2004 Maxima with 205K miles. I've kept up with all repairs and maintenance.
The "service engine soon" light came on a few weeks ago. I assumed it was the gas cap, took it off, put it back on, but the light stayed on for my entire commute, around 70 miles.
So the next day I went to the dealer to run the codes. I didn't write down the codes, unfortunately, but he said one was for the rear 02 sensor and one was for the fuel, and that I needed a new catalytic convertor. He said they normally replace them every 50k miles. (WHAT?) And that'd be $1200.
Then this morning I filled my car up and the light went off after driving about two miles. This is the first time it's went off since it came on. Aside from $20 here and there, this was the first time I filled my car up since the "service engine soon" light came on.
My thoughts:
If it's the gas cap, that's a really long time to reset itself. Unless filling it up is what caused it to reset itself?
If the rear 02 sensor is throwing off a code, why aren't we replacing the rear 02 sensor before we jump to catalytic convertor?
This car is probably due for a catalytic convertor at 205k miles.
BUT, the gas mileage is still just as good as ever, and there are none of the other classic signs of a bad cat.
I'm getting a new car in six months and not dropping $1200 on this one would be really nice.
I can wait it out to see if it comes back on.
I can get a new cc at the dealer.
Or I can take it to a muffler shop or some other mechanic that charges 1/3 the price of the dealership (but are those cc's just as good?)
Thoughts? I really don't know which was to go here and I'm not knowledgeable enough about this issue to really make a decision on my own. And my dealer has given me enough reason to believe they see me and my checkbook coming from a mile away.
08-23-2013, 06:56 AM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Snakeden Branch, VA
Posts: 1,441
Yeah, you're 100% on point about the stealership. Don't let them screw you out of a thousand bucks, for no reason, this is just ridiculous but it's what they do to a nice young lady like yourself.
Now lets move on to what you should really do. First thing is that, forget about your gas tank, gas cap, etc. You can drive without your gas cap on at all and you should be fine without any check engine light.
Go to Autozone, Pepboys, anywhere that will pull your codes for FREE, get the codes from them and write them down, make sure you have the exact codes and come back here to let us know. After that, we'll be able to help much better as well.
Next thing, DO NOT listen to the dealership. DO NOT let those morons replace your CAT for a thousand bucks. My guess, judging by what the dealership told you, is that you probably have a bad O2 sensor (very common) which also coincides with a fuel problem (need exact code for this). But that makes perfect sense, because a bad O2 sensor will mess up your fuel trims, etc.. So make sure you get the correct codes pulled for FREE at auto store and let us know. As for the catalyst, chances are it's fine and they're just trying to rip you off, I just had an exhaust shop trying to do this to me when my car has 80k with perfect CAT, but I had my whole exhaust done so they figured why not take advantage and see if they can get extra $1000, and this is despite the fact that I clearly know all about my car but they STILL tried it.
OK, hope you're still on track with what I'm saying. Do those things first, and get the codes pulled, go from there. Come back and post that info here. Your catalytic converter MAY POSSIBLY be bad, just because of the higher mileage, but it's not a very common problem and highly unlikely. You can do a couple of things on your own to check the CAT, first thing is listen for rattling noise when driving, especially when you floor it, you will hear a metal rattling noise from the CAT if the honeycomb material inside has gotten loose, it's not a sound that can be mistaken for anything else, you'll know if you hear it. You can also take a rubber mallet, go under your car and knock (not too hard obviously) on the CAT to see if you hear any metal rattling, same idea as listening while driving. If there is no metal rattling, and you don't feel any power loss while driving, chances are the CAT is just fine. You can even jack the car up with help of a friend, using the jack you have in your trunk, pull the front O2 sensor and look right inside the CAT, you will be able to see if the honeycomb material is deteriorated, if it's bad enough you can clearly see it with a flashlight in the hole.
Hope all that helps you, and don't forget that all the auto shops are pretty much out to get ya, especially if you're a girl. If you tell us what general area you're from perhaps someone can point you to a good mechanic as well. And even if you DO end up needing a catalytic converter, DON'T pay $1000 for it to the dealership, especially if you're getting rid of the car in 6 months. You can buy a high-flo CAT for around $200-300 and have it put in for a total of maybe $400-500 at a decent shop, that is IF you end up needing it which I'm 99% sure you will not.
Good luck with it!
Now lets move on to what you should really do. First thing is that, forget about your gas tank, gas cap, etc. You can drive without your gas cap on at all and you should be fine without any check engine light.
Go to Autozone, Pepboys, anywhere that will pull your codes for FREE, get the codes from them and write them down, make sure you have the exact codes and come back here to let us know. After that, we'll be able to help much better as well.
Next thing, DO NOT listen to the dealership. DO NOT let those morons replace your CAT for a thousand bucks. My guess, judging by what the dealership told you, is that you probably have a bad O2 sensor (very common) which also coincides with a fuel problem (need exact code for this). But that makes perfect sense, because a bad O2 sensor will mess up your fuel trims, etc.. So make sure you get the correct codes pulled for FREE at auto store and let us know. As for the catalyst, chances are it's fine and they're just trying to rip you off, I just had an exhaust shop trying to do this to me when my car has 80k with perfect CAT, but I had my whole exhaust done so they figured why not take advantage and see if they can get extra $1000, and this is despite the fact that I clearly know all about my car but they STILL tried it.
OK, hope you're still on track with what I'm saying. Do those things first, and get the codes pulled, go from there. Come back and post that info here. Your catalytic converter MAY POSSIBLY be bad, just because of the higher mileage, but it's not a very common problem and highly unlikely. You can do a couple of things on your own to check the CAT, first thing is listen for rattling noise when driving, especially when you floor it, you will hear a metal rattling noise from the CAT if the honeycomb material inside has gotten loose, it's not a sound that can be mistaken for anything else, you'll know if you hear it. You can also take a rubber mallet, go under your car and knock (not too hard obviously) on the CAT to see if you hear any metal rattling, same idea as listening while driving. If there is no metal rattling, and you don't feel any power loss while driving, chances are the CAT is just fine. You can even jack the car up with help of a friend, using the jack you have in your trunk, pull the front O2 sensor and look right inside the CAT, you will be able to see if the honeycomb material is deteriorated, if it's bad enough you can clearly see it with a flashlight in the hole.
Hope all that helps you, and don't forget that all the auto shops are pretty much out to get ya, especially if you're a girl. If you tell us what general area you're from perhaps someone can point you to a good mechanic as well. And even if you DO end up needing a catalytic converter, DON'T pay $1000 for it to the dealership, especially if you're getting rid of the car in 6 months. You can buy a high-flo CAT for around $200-300 and have it put in for a total of maybe $400-500 at a decent shop, that is IF you end up needing it which I'm 99% sure you will not.
Good luck with it!
08-23-2013, 06:56 AM
#3
Since a new car is in your future, here is what I would do If I were you: I'd order a new aftermarket cat online (your precat is likely the one that has failed, code p0420). They can be found on ebay for around $200. o2 sensor can be ordered online as well which could save you some more cash. Bring the parts to a mechanic of your choice and have them install them.
Or, you could just ignore the light and use the car for the next 6 months until you're ready to get rid of it. If you're trading the car in, the repair then becomes the dealership's issue when they take it over! (This is the route that I chose, as my car was in need of some repairs as well)
Or, you could just ignore the light and use the car for the next 6 months until you're ready to get rid of it. If you're trading the car in, the repair then becomes the dealership's issue when they take it over! (This is the route that I chose, as my car was in need of some repairs as well)
08-23-2013, 07:34 AM
#4
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 2,038
Since a new car is in your future, here is what I would do If I were you: I'd order a new aftermarket cat online (your precat is likely the one that has failed, code p0420). They can be found on ebay for around $200. o2 sensor can be ordered online as well which could save you some more cash. Bring the parts to a mechanic of your choice and have them install them.
Or, you could just ignore the light and use the car for the next 6 months until you're ready to get rid of it. If you're trading the car in, the repair then becomes the dealership's issue when they take it over! (This is the route that I chose, as my car was in need of some repairs as well)
Or, you could just ignore the light and use the car for the next 6 months until you're ready to get rid of it. If you're trading the car in, the repair then becomes the dealership's issue when they take it over! (This is the route that I chose, as my car was in need of some repairs as well)
Generally, unless the cats are clogged, you don't really care if they are bad. How is your gas mileage? Is the car running sluggish?
08-23-2013, 07:44 AM
#5
^^ yes. The one that fails on the 6th gen is usually the firewall side precat, which triggers trouble code p0420.
Wasn't suggesting that the OP order a new main cat; OP never specified which cat may be at fault. However I was advising the OP of which cat is known to fail on the 6th gen - this way the OP has an idea of what expect as far as part costs and repair estimates.
papie, go to AutoZone if you have them in your area. Get printouts of your trouble codes and post the codes here, this way the forum can better assist you.
Wasn't suggesting that the OP order a new main cat; OP never specified which cat may be at fault. However I was advising the OP of which cat is known to fail on the 6th gen - this way the OP has an idea of what expect as far as part costs and repair estimates.
papie, go to AutoZone if you have them in your area. Get printouts of your trouble codes and post the codes here, this way the forum can better assist you.
Last edited by CRiME; 08-23-2013 at 07:57 AM.
08-23-2013, 08:18 AM
#6
Newbie - Just Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 2
Thanks guys! I will go to Auto Zone and get the codes read this evening.
And Max, the fuel efficiency is as good as ever. It doesn't feel sluggish at all. And I also don't hear any rattling or anything like that.
And Max, the fuel efficiency is as good as ever. It doesn't feel sluggish at all. And I also don't hear any rattling or anything like that.
08-23-2013, 09:08 AM
#7
what happened is the fact that you're a girl. ALMOST EVERY MECHANIC try's hard to tell girls that their problem is 10 times more involved than it is. happens to my mom, and many other females I know. It's sad and pathetic, you just have to know what to belive. so good for you that you came here to ask questions before shoveling $1200 at the stealership.
08-23-2013, 09:55 AM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 1,625
Do what crime suggested.
Go to autozone or O'Reilly and have them pull your codes.
Some places will not do it for you so you will have to rent one (you put 50 bucks deposit and get it all back when you return it) and since you're a girl, you can most likely get one of the guys to come out and show you where to plug it in and ect. If not come back here and we'll show you. Guys are stupid sorry sons of *****es as I am sure you already know, suckers lol... me included
but no seriously 
Bring the codes back to us, we will tell you what to buy and where to get them (again stupid sorry sons of ect.. cause we don't usually spoon feed people on here) But then again a girl who is not car savvy and is self educating and breaking the stereotype earns my respect any day.
as a side, why the hell is
and on the immediate smiley box? No one ever uses them, they suck, and many other better smileys could be taking their place for the ease of access. just sayin...
Last is look for a good mechanic backed by the BBB (better business burro) google them and READ THE REVIEWS! this is important. People who get screwed like to talk about it and people who have a great experience also. You will know quite a lot about a shop searching reviews of prior customers. yelp, google, yahoo, they all have business reviews as well as many other sites. You can get this all done for less than half what the dealership told you.
good luck
Go to autozone or O'Reilly and have them pull your codes.
Some places will not do it for you so you will have to rent one (you put 50 bucks deposit and get it all back when you return it) and since you're a girl, you can most likely get one of the guys to come out and show you where to plug it in and ect. If not come back here and we'll show you. Guys are stupid sorry sons of *****es as I am sure you already know, suckers lol... me included
but no seriously Bring the codes back to us, we will tell you what to buy and where to get them (again stupid sorry sons of ect.. cause we don't usually spoon feed people on here) But then again a girl who is not car savvy and is self educating and breaking the stereotype earns my respect any day.
as a side, why the hell is
and on the immediate smiley box? No one ever uses them, they suck, and many other better smileys could be taking their place for the ease of access. just sayin... Last is look for a good mechanic backed by the BBB (better business burro) google them and READ THE REVIEWS! this is important. People who get screwed like to talk about it and people who have a great experience also. You will know quite a lot about a shop searching reviews of prior customers. yelp, google, yahoo, they all have business reviews as well as many other sites. You can get this all done for less than half what the dealership told you.
good luck
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