(new to the fourm)Nissan maxima 2004 Does not acclerate passed 2000 rpm

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Dec 10, 2013 | 04:01 AM
  #1  
I have a 2004 Nissan Maxima does not accelerate pass 2000 rpm i have tried everything i changed the Throttle position sensor checked fuses reset the battery nothing... i still get the code p0222 low circuit it all happen when i changed the starter since it was going bad but other than that when it use to happen I would just remove the positive terminal from the battery and it work all fine, and i also went to a mechanic to get the tps re-flashed he said it wasn't the issue so in other words the original tps works fine, however I did the manual reset where you have to depress the pedal five times CEL blinks and comes back ... any thoughts?
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Dec 10, 2013 | 10:29 AM
  #2  
But there's still one other issue from the error code you've not addressed: Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor. You might need to replace the pedal.
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Dec 10, 2013 | 11:49 PM
  #3  
Pedal
Well when i went to Nissan i was told that was not a common issue they haven't sold that part since 2010 so it made me think twice
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Dec 11, 2013 | 02:31 AM
  #4  
Quote: Well when i went to Nissan i was told that was not a common issue they haven't sold that part since 2010 so it made me think twice
Good, but what exactly do you mean by Nissan? Not being common is not the same thing as non-existent.
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Dec 11, 2013 | 05:53 AM
  #5  
So you think I should just go ahead and buy the part?
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Dec 11, 2013 | 08:20 AM
  #6  
Quote: So you think I should just go ahead and buy the part?
Since you've tried all else, yes go ahead.
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Dec 11, 2013 | 03:22 PM
  #7  
how much is the part? If it costs more than the price of a "Nissan Diagnostic", then I would get the Diagnostic. Did you explain your situation, maybe they have had this issue before which didn't require the part?
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Dec 11, 2013 | 08:54 PM
  #8  
Okay what i did today was but the part from advance auto and installed it, ended up not solving the problem ... My nissan dealer does not diagnose cars over 100k mines has 124k
Do you guys think replacing the battery was an issue?
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Dec 11, 2013 | 10:56 PM
  #9  
Quote: Okay what i did today was but the part from advance auto and installed it, ended up not solving the problem ... My nissan dealer does not diagnose cars over 100k mines has 124k
Do you guys think replacing the battery was an issue?
That's regrettable, though I'd have preferred oem to remove all doubts. Again, it's always good to enquire about part numbers from the members on the forum to be sure of your information.
Your dealer does not diagnose cars over 100k miles! He does not deserve your patronage. I agree with po8pimp that you should endeavour to have your personal diagnostic tool. Believe me it's a worthwhile long-term investment. Keep us posted and good luck.
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Dec 12, 2013 | 07:43 AM
  #10  
Yes the diagnostic scanner brings up p0222 and any thought Do you think changing the battery caused a problem ?
any ideas?
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Dec 12, 2013 | 08:59 AM
  #11  
Quote: Yes the diagnostic scanner brings up p0222 and any thought Do you think changing the battery caused a problem ?
any ideas?
I shouldn't think so. The only other thing that comes to mind is the MAF. You can have that tested too.
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Dec 12, 2013 | 09:48 AM
  #12  
I have an app switch, which is attached to the pedal, your welcome to it pretty cheap.

With the app switch disconnected the vehicle will not rev at all, much less make it up to 2000 rmp. The issue that your talking about honestly sounds like maf to me. Generally when this goes out it usually carries a 2000-2500 rpm limitation. The APP wont allow the drive by wire system to let the throttle body(tps) know what adjustment it should make so it stays at idle. Check your maf.
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Dec 12, 2013 | 10:41 AM
  #13  
Wouldn't the CEL catch the MAF code ? Instead p0222 low curcuit
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Dec 12, 2013 | 10:55 AM
  #14  
Quote: Wouldn't the CEL catch the MAF code ? Instead p0222 low curcuit
Nice question. The TP and the MAF are in the same region. Nothing's impossible. Just check the MAF out.
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Dec 12, 2013 | 11:00 AM
  #15  
How can I have it checked out?
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Dec 12, 2013 | 11:08 AM
  #16  
Quote: How can I have it checked out?
A scan tool that runs live data for example. I think the range at engine idle should be between 2.0 to 6.0 g.m/sec.
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Dec 13, 2013 | 06:22 PM
  #17  
I have never heard of a dealer not working on a car over 100k miles. Some cars are warrantied past 100k miles so this doesn't make sense. Try a different dealer of mechanic.
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Dec 14, 2013 | 09:48 AM
  #18  
My mechanic got it resolved it was the wiring attached to the throttle body that was going bad now it runs great , but rpm is always on 1000 during idle, and unfortunately my nearest dealer doesn't touch cars over 100k or 10 years older and the next closet dealer is 30 mins away
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Dec 14, 2013 | 10:12 AM
  #19  
Quote: My mechanic got it resolved it was the wiring attached to the throttle body that was going bad now it runs great , but rpm is always on 1000 during idle, and unfortunately my nearest dealer doesn't touch cars over 100k or 10 years older and the next closet dealer is 30 mins away

you'll need to get the idle reset at the dealer and if they are refusing to work on your car due to mileage then just call Nissan on them. Nissan doesn't look lightly on dealers that do crap like that and they'll get the DTS and FOM involved really fast
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Dec 15, 2013 | 09:21 AM
  #20  
I will actually call nissan monday, thanks for the idea!
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Dec 15, 2013 | 06:45 PM
  #21  
I have an 06 Max and it started this yesterday, my TCS and SLIP lights are on when it happens, If I press the gas there is not a response until about 3 seconds and it slowly creeps up, and a couple times it started ok, I recently had my dash removed and put back together, any comments on that?
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Apr 11, 2014 | 12:37 PM
  #22  
Same Issue Help Please!
I was pulling out of the parking lot and when I went to accelerate my car would barely move (2004), I thought I might have accidentally put it in Neutral or something but no it was on drive!!!

My check engine light is on and my gas tank light is on but it shows I have a little less than have a tank. After I accelerate a little it will drive like normal but when I got to a red light it would do the same thing.

I've read the postings but I'm confused. I'm going to AutoZone after work so they chan check it for me but can someone give me a heads up as to what it could be? :con fused:

Please any input would be so helpful!
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