4tech

I've researched my issue via google, the forums and stickies this past week. Finally I have to post and ask regarding my issue.

Model: 2006 Nissan Maxima SL
Mileage: 186k
Issues - No power to the following:

• AC
• Seats
• Steering Wheel
• Cluster Lights (warning lights work)
• Dome Lights
• Head Unit
• Brake Lights
• OBDII port

As a result of the above can't shift out of Park. However, the gear shift override works. Since the stoplight switch is not triggering brake lights, it won't shift out of park.

Tested the following:

• Fuses - All checked in both sections under the hood and interior. None blown.
• Stoplight Switch - Removed and tested for continuity. Tested fine.
• Battery/Alternator - Used the multimeter and tested the battery cold and starting up. Battery and alternator tested fine. Read 12.5 cold and 14.5 when running.
• Had mechanic come out and check. He ran through the same tests and some. Determined the items listed above are not receiving power and there's an issue somewhere along the circuit but didn't have a chance to determine what exactly (hired YourMechanic for only a 1 hour check).

I've found the FSM for the 2006 Maxima here on the forums. Can anyone give me guidance on how to check the circuit involved? Do I just look for visible signs in wiring, melted connections, damage, etc. along the circuit? Is there a way to narrow it down with a multimeter or circuit tester? Any guidance is much appreciated. I don't work on cars often but I'm a quick study.

Costee

Extend your troubleshooting to the IPDM. If you have a scan tool that can go beyond the usual four modules (ECM, TCM,ABS, SRS) which normally trigger the SES light, I'm sure you'd get codes for some other modules relevant to your issues. These other modules available on the Max that can be scanned are: IPDM, BCM, the Unified Meter and A/C Amp, and the Auto Drive Position. Your issues seem surely covered by these modules.

4tech

Thank you for the assist! Is there a way to scan if the OBDII port doesn't receive power either?

Costee

I doubt that. But if the port isn't receiving power to enable scanning I'd suggest you check the ECM relay in the IPDM! It seems there's a glitch from your IPDM. Has it come into contact with water or some fluid recently?
The coolant reservoir is nearby.

4tech

No fluid that i'm aware of but thanks, i'll take a look.

saig

1. Locate the index manual (idx.pdf) of your year, 2006:
http://www.nicoclub.com/service-manu...006_Maxima/idx
2. Look for component description, then find the manual-pageno, for example, power seat, se-85
3. now go back to the fsm repository, look for file se.pdf, open it and go to page 85. There is diagram. There are also diagnostics and procedures there to guide you through to complete the testing. You will need to learn symbols, pinouts of connectors, locations of junction boxes, wire colorings, etc.

Nissan organizes its fsm as
fwd.pdf : master table of content.
idx.pdf: indexes.
gi.pdf: general information, pinout, wire colorings, male/female plugs, relay types, ...
xxx.pdf: service manual

Maxima of your year uses more and more computers. Depend on components, you may have to deal with BCM (body control module) and LCUs (local control unit). These are connected by data/signal which could be +/-/not connect depending on the operations. So be aware of that.

4tech

Thanks for the response!

I spent the entire weekend going through the manual and performing each test related to my issues. I tested the ECM relay switch and base - all checked out fine. It seems its harness or sensor related so i'll need to continue testing when time permits.

Adding to the list of items not working: License plate light, SRS indicator light constantly flashes (but it had always done this prior), no chime warning sounds, no seat belt warning light.

Doc Plus

Did you find your issue ?

One good point to start is the OBDII port.
Do you confirm that you don't have battery voltage on pin 16 ?
The wiring diagram is in EC-699. The power is coming directly from the battery through the fuse 19.
Can you please check again that you have 12V on each side of that fuse ?

If you have about 12V on pin 16, check the grounds (terminals 4 & 5). I don't know your knowledge but don't use a voltmeter for that.

4tech

I haven't found the issue yet. I got as far as checking each fuse, fuse block and relay switches associated with the devices not receiving power. Just got back from traveling and the plan now is to start checking the harness. I'll check pin 16 right away and will let you know, thanks!

4tech

Couldn't figure it out so we towed it to the dealership. On paper they stated the issues were:

• Main fuse on positive battery terminal blown.
• Internal open circuit

But in conversation they said it was the harness that connects to the battery and suggested to fix elsewhere since the dealership wanted $2800.

Does anyone know what part numbers they are referring to? Is it the main harness and/or positive battery terminal?

Doc Plus

Correct me if i'm wrong but previsouly you did not check the high current fuses ?
And the one you checked, you only checked them visually ?
Always check with a DVOM or a test light.


So it looks like your harness was rubbing against metal and that at least one wire from the battery got shorted to ground and at least one fuse blown.
I don't get the "main fuse" at least if the schematic on the service manual is correct (PG-7).

There are 3 fuses (a, b, c) connected directly to the positive post. So there is not only 1 main fuse.
The connector to the battery has 5 fuses (a, b, c, d, e) and 4 wires are coming out from it.
So the main harness should have 4 wires (I don't count the one going to the starter and the one to the alternator).

It could be from 1 to 4 wires shorted to ground, so 1 to 4 fuses blown. The big one (fuse a 120A) should be good.

2 things to do:
1- find the short(s) to ground (harness going from the battery to the fuse/relay box near the battery and fix the wire(s).
2- replace the blown fuses. I don't know if you can just replace the fuses or if Nissan sells only the connector (fusible link box).
In the worst scenario you can bypass the fusible link box and add your own fuse box, with the 5 fuses.


If at least one fuse blown, it's a short to ground. So the wire is not open again (not cut).
But it could be cut now. That does not matter you have to fix it.


$2800 is clearly too much. You only have to remove the battery and the air box to access that harness and the issue ! They don't want to fix the issue, they want to replace all the parts, which cost a lot.

Doc Plus

Looks like you can buy the fusible link box alone for $20: https://www.autopartscheaper.com/col...y-fusible-link

Fixing the wires, cost less than $20 in parts ...

4tech

I appreciate all your help doc! Thank you!

4tech

So after ordering and receiving the fusible link block I popped off the old one and you can see in the pictures the 60 amp and the connector/wire plugged into it is fried/melted. I discovered the melted/corroded plug after taking off fusible link holder to install the new one I just bought. It looks like the plug cracked and was exposed to the corrosion from the positive terminal.

So now I need to replace that plug and can't figure out what wire this is...can anyone provide a part # or name?

Funny enough after the dealership inspected the car earlier this week it actually worked again without replacing any parts. So it seems the trouble area still works to some degree.

Doc Plus

If it's corrosion, at least you don't have to search for a short to ground in the harness.

The connector reference on the schematic is E10, but a part number ...
I searched a bit but I did not find.
If you want it new, you should ask to auto parts shops if they sell that part.
Nissan do not ?

4tech

Thanks! I searched as well and couldnt find it. I'll call Nissan parts department tomorrow when they open.