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Misfire At Idle?

Old 11-15-2018, 06:05 PM
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Misfire At Idle?

Service engine soon light still on. Brought it in after some rough idling (code was for Idle Air Control- Unexpected variance from idle speed). However, my mechanic replaced my negative battery post as it was loose and wanted to fix that first before going on. He cleared the codes and told me to drive it around and see how it acted. SES light back on after a few days, rough and very low idle (about 400-500 rpm) with horrible shaking throughout the car, and my exhaust sounded extremely sputtery. Brought it back to my mechanic and they test drove it 4 times over the course of a couple of days and couldn't get it to replicate what it was doing. No other codes popped up (for a misfire or something other than the idle speed variance). I got the symptoms of what it was doing (the low idle and sputtering exhaust) on video, but they need to replicate it in order to solve and fix it. There is a thread on this mystery misfire at idle, but there didn't seem to be a solution besides just throwing parts at it and hope for the best. Any input? Anybody else have this issue?
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Old 11-16-2018, 07:11 AM
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What specific code are you seeing?
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Old 11-16-2018, 07:26 AM
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Plugs replaced when? could be bad carbon buildup, may need to run some cleaner through, also could be water in the gas tank only comes through at times...just some thoughts
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Old 03-04-2019, 05:12 PM
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Potential Solution?

Sorry for the late response, guys. I had my mechanic do some diagnostic work. He had to perform the idle relearn / gas pedal position procedure 3 times. He also de-carboned the intake valves, even though I run Berryman B-12 through the fuel system often. SEL light turned off. Car idled and ran perfectly, then a few weeks later, it began to shut off on me while driving (again). I had my entire timing kit replaced in September of 2016. It was perfect for about a year, then began to rattle on startup soon thereafter. Well, turns out, after 2 years of driving it and dealing with it shutting off on me occasionally when driving, my new mechanic just found there is slack in the timing chain, the tensioner is extended all the way out, and there's potentially a 9 degree difference in timing between the cylinder banks (they don't know for sure because I never gave them the go ahead to tear it apart, at least for now). I'm now either looking at $900 in labor, a few hundreds in parts (after spending $2,100 in 2016 to have all of it done in the first place) or am going to go buy a 6.5/7th gen Maxima or even a G35/G37. I've been driving it for awhile like it is and nothing has happened yet, and have even driven back and forth between Oklahoma and Minnesota 5 separate times with another trip coming up in a week, but I also don't want to end up destroying my valvetrain. What do you think is the best thing to do? Park it now before I cause serious damage and take a flight to Minnesota? Keep driving as usual? Fix it? New car?
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Old 03-04-2019, 05:17 PM
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Plugs were replaced with new Autolite double platinums on March 15th of last year and I could notice a difference in startups and responsiveness right away. I did the work myself. I also run Berryman B-12 through it occasionally. Carbon buildup shouldn't be too much of an issue. Just put in a new air filter, too.
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Old 03-05-2019, 03:59 AM
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Tradin you're at maybe $1000. Private party, maybe only a little more then that. Really depends on how pragmatic you are and your thoughts on incurring a payment. I'm often telling guys with older high mileage cars with a pending costly repair, just get rid of it. If the car is worth less then the repair bill...get rid of it. You are fortunate that it still seems to run good, if it starts misfiring at the dealership or "webuyanycar" type place, that will likely get you a lowball. Either way, My opinion, once you crack that 120,000 mile mark the car is on borrowed time. I'd guess you're pushing 180,000 on the low end, time to say goodbye. If it were a Ram 1500 or Ford F150 I'd say you gotta keep fixing it, as those trucks hold their value, and they run for a lot more miles then these Maxima's. Of course there's someone going to come in here and say they got 300,000 miles and only major repair was a wheel bearing. To that I say, of the 50,000-100,000 or so of these cars sold every year, how many 15 year old ones are still on the road. Not many.
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Old 03-09-2019, 06:44 AM
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mine is doing the same thing. put a new throttle body on it
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Old 03-09-2019, 12:24 PM
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I'm going on 245,000 miles in my Max. I detail the crap out of it and have already done so much maintenance in the years I've owned it. I do understand your borrowed time reference, but I also think it's pretty cool to own a car you don't see everyday. So, I could either end up with a $200 monthly car payment on a car that will need maintenance at some point or just fix the car and its issues I have become familiar with. I still haven't made a decision, as you can probably tell. I am going to go look at cars for sale in my home state and see what I can find. If I find the right car and can qualify for the right monthly payment, then I'll do that. I would never trade in my car. I could get 2-3 times the amount of money if I sold it outright.
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