6th Generation Maxima (2004-2008) Discussion of the 6th generation Maxima. Come see what others are saying.

06 Maxima Weird Problems

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Old Aug 19, 2019 | 03:39 PM
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06 Maxima Possible ECU Problems

I have a 06 Maxima and I’m having a lot of problems with the alternator and battery. It seems my battery won’t stay charged and I have put a new battery and the second alternator on within the past month. As well as the vehicle went into limp mode this morning and the only codes I have are P1800, C1106, C1109. Up until this morning the alternator was charging the battery until it went into limp mode and now it isn’t. Also I have to unhook the battery every night because something is drawing power from it with all lights off, etc. Thinking maybe my Ecm needs replaced any thoughts?

Last edited by Afuller2018; Aug 19, 2019 at 03:53 PM. Reason: More informational title
Old Aug 19, 2019 | 05:38 PM
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Old Aug 20, 2019 | 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by User1
A draw from the battery could cause all these problems? I’ll try this when I get home and keep the thread updated.
Old Aug 20, 2019 | 07:31 AM
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Do you have an aftermarket alarm?
Did you check the battery cables and clamps?
Old Aug 20, 2019 | 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Tarzan
Do you have an aftermarket alarm?
Did you check the battery cables and clamps?
No aftermarket alarm, battery cables and clamps are tight and snug. The car will only run if I leave a jump pack hooked up to it, once I unhook It and it drains the battery it dies. The alternator had been charging the battery for the past few weeks, but I was having to unhook the cables from the battery due to something draining it, but I would hook them up to drive it and it would start, run, and charge fine.

Last edited by Afuller2018; Aug 20, 2019 at 08:55 AM.
Old Aug 20, 2019 | 09:19 AM
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are you positive that no load is left on such as radio on low volume, blower motors, inverters, GPS, or heated seats?
Old Aug 20, 2019 | 09:21 AM
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Do you have a multimeter? You don't have to know what the readings mean as long as you can relay the information to us. Until then, you're pretty much limited to vague speculation. You will kill another battery if you continue to repeatedly drain it.
Old Aug 20, 2019 | 10:13 AM
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I do have a multi meter, will test for anything running while car is off when I get home. Will keep you updated.
Old Aug 20, 2019 | 01:12 PM
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If the battery dies overnight and your alternator and battery are new and they're still testing good, it's a short to ground. A slow drain on the battery or possibly more serious electrical problem.

P1800 is the vias solenoid. The others are for the ABS system, one of the codes being from low voltage.

Disconnect anything after market including stereo and car alarm. Make sure it's not something like one of the lights in the sun visor or trunk.

maybe start pulling fuses from all the unessential electrical systems like the stereo, the sunroof, ect.

did a shop replace the alternator? When this was replaced did you state to them the problems you were having?

When did these problems first start?

Last edited by NC00DEK; Aug 24, 2019 at 09:03 PM.
Old Oct 2, 2019 | 03:55 PM
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When doing the parasitic drain test, what is a normal parasitic drain for these cars? I have my multi meter set to mA and the parasitic drain is showing 1.75 mA when the car is completely off and doors closed, nothing on at all....
Old Oct 2, 2019 | 06:20 PM
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Solved

Figured out the problem. I have the tools to do module matching and computer relearns and decided to buy a new ECU and replaced the old one as well as sync it in. The reason I made the choice was because I was also having the emergency “limp” mode problem. After replacing the computer I haven’t had a problem out of the vehicle since. If anyone else reads this and decides to try this, I suggest buying a ecu used from a junk yard or eBay (~$90). Then proceed to call a locksmith and have them relearn the keys if needed (this is what I did, and since I’m a locksmith myself I was able to save myself some money. I usually charge people anywhere Around $100).
Old Oct 2, 2019 | 07:37 PM
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Interesting conclusion and resolution. Happy motoring.
Old Oct 10, 2019 | 06:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Afuller2018
Figured out the problem. I have the tools to do module matching and computer relearns and decided to buy a new ECU and replaced the old one as well as sync it in. The reason I made the choice was because I was also having the emergency “limp” mode problem. After replacing the computer I haven’t had a problem out of the vehicle since. If anyone else reads this and decides to try this, I suggest buying a ecu used from a junk yard or eBay (~$90). Then proceed to call a locksmith and have them relearn the keys if needed (this is what I did, and since I’m a locksmith myself I was able to save myself some money. I usually charge people anywhere Around $100).
Interesting, I did not know a locksmith was able to relearn a key.
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