Afuller2018

I have a 06 Maxima and I’m having a lot of problems with the alternator and battery. It seems my battery won’t stay charged and I have put a new battery and the second alternator on within the past month. As well as the vehicle went into limp mode this morning and the only codes I have are P1800, C1106, C1109. Up until this morning the alternator was charging the battery until it went into limp mode and now it isn’t. Also I have to unhook the battery every night because something is drawing power from it with all lights off, etc. Thinking maybe my Ecm needs replaced any thoughts?

User1

Afuller2018

A draw from the battery could cause all these problems? I’ll try this when I get home and keep the thread updated.

Tarzan

Do you have an aftermarket alarm?
Did you check the battery cables and clamps?

Afuller2018

No aftermarket alarm, battery cables and clamps are tight and snug. The car will only run if I leave a jump pack hooked up to it, once I unhook It and it drains the battery it dies. The alternator had been charging the battery for the past few weeks, but I was having to unhook the cables from the battery due to something draining it, but I would hook them up to drive it and it would start, run, and charge fine.

Tarzan

are you positive that no load is left on such as radio on low volume, blower motors, inverters, GPS, or heated seats?

User1

Do you have a multimeter? You don't have to know what the readings mean as long as you can relay the information to us. Until then, you're pretty much limited to vague speculation. You will kill another battery if you continue to repeatedly drain it.

Afuller2018

I do have a multi meter, will test for anything running while car is off when I get home. Will keep you updated.

NC00DEK

If the battery dies overnight and your alternator and battery are new and they're still testing good, it's a short to ground. A slow drain on the battery or possibly more serious electrical problem.

P1800 is the vias solenoid. The others are for the ABS system, one of the codes being from low voltage.

Disconnect anything after market including stereo and car alarm. Make sure it's not something like one of the lights in the sun visor or trunk.

maybe start pulling fuses from all the unessential electrical systems like the stereo, the sunroof, ect.

did a shop replace the alternator? When this was replaced did you state to them the problems you were having?

When did these problems first start?

adpostel

When doing the parasitic drain test, what is a normal parasitic drain for these cars? I have my multi meter set to mA and the parasitic drain is showing 1.75 mA when the car is completely off and doors closed, nothing on at all....

Afuller2018

Figured out the problem. I have the tools to do module matching and computer relearns and decided to buy a new ECU and replaced the old one as well as sync it in. The reason I made the choice was because I was also having the emergency “limp” mode problem. After replacing the computer I haven’t had a problem out of the vehicle since. If anyone else reads this and decides to try this, I suggest buying a ecu used from a junk yard or eBay (~$90). Then proceed to call a locksmith and have them relearn the keys if needed (this is what I did, and since I’m a locksmith myself I was able to save myself some money. I usually charge people anywhere Around $100).

User1

Interesting conclusion and resolution. Happy motoring.

Roymg

Interesting, I did not know a locksmith was able to relearn a key.