CKphilly

Can anyone post installation pics of this? Are you still raising the car on the jack?

shatterpruf

No I did not jack up the car when it was stock height, My car is lowered now so I have to jack it up.

vancitymax

can anyone direct me towards a 4000k day time running bulb that will do both highbeam and lowbeam like the stock one does???

Flip2cho

Changed my stock 4300k to 6000k to match the fog hid kit I put in. Deffinently made a difference. Total time was 30 min. A little tight with the stock 19"s. The D2S bulb was easier to switch out that I thought. I'm tying to find a good price on 5000k's ( D2S for headlights and H11 for Fogs) to get the whitest light without yellow or blue.

2young2retire

Question. Were the wire clips that hold the bulb in place loose? I changed out my bulbs to 5000k's and both the clips seemed loose, the passenger side being the worse, the bulb actually loose in the housing,

vancitymax

I wasn't refering to my HID D2S lowbeams... i was asking about my "Day time running lights / highbeams" they stay on during the day when my D2S aren't on. I wan't them the same colour as my D2S so I was looking for a 4000k bulb. I believe the size is 9005. The only problem is that the stock 9005 does both Daytime running AND highbeams (double filament I guess)... I can't seem to find a double filament xenon bulb anywhere...

nalc

iTrader: (11)

No, it's the same bulb, just a different voltage for DRLs.

You will not have much luck in your goal.

The reason for this is that the whiteness of a bulb (not counting any blue tint on it) is a function of the temperature of the filament, which in turn is a function of the power to the bulb.

Running the bulbs at half power for DRLs means that the light will be more yellow colored than if you were running them at full power highbeams.

That's why, if you notice, most of the Acura/Honda models with DRLs they are almost like a brown-yellow color, even though the bulbs are clear.

To get a "4000k" pure white light from a low power DRL bulb would require a very high efficacy filament that would be very short-lived at full voltage, or a heavy blue tint to the bulb, which will reduce high-beam visibility.

One possible option is to see if you can rewire the DRLs to your amber turn signals, and keep the high beams as only high beams.

Flip2cho

I know it is hard to find double beam HIDs but they are out there. I didn't know some of these cars had day time running lights... Mine don't. I own a 2010 and when I test drove a 2009 I had asked the dealer if the car had day times and they said no. I was under the impression none of the 7th gens had Day time running lights.

Flip2cho

For the D2S bulbs they have a square notch on the top them that fits into a spot on the top of the hole for the D2S. If the notch is not lined up the bulb is not actually all the way in the housing and will be less bright. I actually had the bulb upside down the first time no noticing the notch placement and was upset for a second thinking the new bulbs I purchased were just not bright. I had a hard time putting the wire box back on because the bulb would slide with the wire box when I went to turn it to lock the wire box on the light. Once I realize I didn't have the bulb in the right slot it was smooth sailing then on out. I turned the bulb to match up and the wire box turned to lock in no problem. There was a big difference how much brighter the light was once the bulb was 100% in the projector. The clips pushed in and slid down into spot perfectly. Maybe that's what's going on in your case.

And anyone who thinks it's tight to fit your hands in the little spot, it's even harder with the 19" rims.

nalc

iTrader: (11)

He's Canadian. All Canadian cars are required to have DRL.

9005 is not a dual filament bulb. It's a single filament bulb that is being run at IDK maybe 6-7 volts for DRL, and 12-14v as high beams. Still the same bulb.

vancitymax

ohhh so thats how it works. dual voltage not dual filament. good to know. so a 4000k bulb running at 6-7 V would look pretty ugly. i guess im S.O.L.

rtitan

iTrader: (1)

Have you ever looked into an LED bulb, something like the lower links:

http://www.v-leds.com/Exterior-LED/D...22474-1-2.html

http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...L_HB3-WHP9.htm

nalc

iTrader: (11)

problem with that is then your car no longer has highbeams.

rtitan

iTrader: (1)

I forgot that DRL's different voltage than the high beam, sorry!

nalc

iTrader: (11)

I mean, the LEDs will work ok (if you can rewire the DRLs for 12v), the problem is just that they will be dim. You can get a nice ~200 lumen DRL from a LED bulb, but the LED bulb won't be able to make the ~1700 lumens that a 9005 does.

FHP

I want to thank everyone on this board that posted information about the purchase and install of HID's I purchased 6000K's from HIDExtra.Com on 02/14/2010 and received them on 02/18/2010. Great customer service by Michelle at HIDExtra and a great turnaround time. The install went well, except for the cuts and back pains I am feeling today from being in positions I was not meant to be in I did not remove the tire and think the install would be so much easier if i had. But eitherway, everything is in and working 100%. I am very **** about seeing wires so every wire was routed and tie wrapped to an existing wire run. I am not sure If I am able to post pics of the install, but I will try. I also completed the install with a relay. Thanks everyone for your help!

queenambeach

iTrader: (3)

55 watt kits are brighter, but they do run hotter. I would not recommend using a 55watt kit with any bulb other than OEM or DL50s. Overdriving aftermarket bulbs are a good way to damage the chrome on your projectors.

2young2retire

Thanks for the reply. Once it warms up a tad more I will tackle the bulb removal again and make sure things are lined up correctly.

67whitegoat

iTrader: (4)

I agree. You do not have to remove the wheel. I didn't remove any screws or pull the bumper out though. I just removed a few push clips on the plastic splash shield to open it up enough for my hand. 10min at best each side.

FHP

Do I need to be concerned with the heat from my new HID bulbs? As stated in an earlier post I just installed 6000k and was wondering if these bulbs run hotter than the OEM hallogen's. The HID's that I installed are 35w. i dont want to damage the housing.

Thanks

Flip2cho

All the headlight housings are designed to handle HID's. They only make one headlight housing for all the 7th gens so I have learned.

FHP

Flip2Cho,

Thanks for the info.

itzPHIL

Who has done the H11 HID Conversion with no relay harness and hasn't had any flickering issues?

I've had my HIDS in for two weeks (approx 10 headlight running hours) and they are flickering like crazy. When I turn my car on they look like a strobe lights. I am debating if I should add a relay harness or purchase a better set of HIDS. I am definitely going to get these warrantied in the meantime.

Kmoney

i did the H11 HID conversion without relay. i had it on for 8months now and no flicker

s-one

So I was thinking about ordering some new HIDs, so i took a peek in the engine bay to see how easy it would be to just access the headlights, holy crap there is no room to even stick a hand in it. Anyone got pics on how to get to the headlights.

2009maxima sv-sport

iTrader: (1)

You have to go from behind the fenders turn the wheel all the way to one side undo the clips that hold the inner wheel well panel and bumper you will see the back of the bulbs.

Mreim769

I think someone posted a tutorial on this a while back. Try searching.

KillaKam

Well I ordered a pair of 6K bulbs from DDMTuning.com and I called a Nissan dealership around my are since I am lazy and really don't feel like figuring out how to install them myself. They told me that there have been some issues with people installing replacement HID bulbs overheating the wiring. There reason is that they draw different currents or have a certain wattage.

Anyone ever hear of this?

For those of you that have already replaced the factory bulbs with aftermarket once I would greatly appreciate your input on this situation.

s-one

I ordered my kit from hidextra.com and i believe their kits are 35w. The headlights i'm just swapping out the d2s bulb. I don't think the 35w should cause any problems.

nalc

iTrader: (11)

It's unlikely that they will cause any issues, but aftermarket bulbs don't have a ton of quality control and there have been examples of them overheating and damaging wiring or headlights.

Mostly, though, it's a "cover your ***" move by Nissan. They're not going to take responsibility for any problems caused by non-DOT approved non-OEM bulbs, even though those problems are very rare.

s-one

Well i got mine in the mail today and installed them. both from hidextra.com

6k d2s hid bulbs
6k H11 kit








lowbeam only




Lowbeam + Fogs




Front Shot

logik05se

I put 8k bulbs in my headlights and it was a pain in the ***. Thank god I had a lift at my disposal which made it much easier, but you really don't need one. Just cut the wheel all the way, and pull out the plastic protector in the wheel well (dont remove it completly, just enough to get your hand in)...Then have fun cutting your hand up and changing your bulb lol.

s-one

i know it took me a while to do, first i didn't even realize that i had the bulb upside down trying to put it back into the projector. i keep wondering why the heck wouldn't the stupid metal clamp thing go back on.

when i went to do the other side it took me like 10 mins to do the foglight and headlight.

1sik4dsc

iTrader: (1)

same here i bought some 8k for the top and wow what a pain in the *** getting those bulbs in, those metal clamps were a pain

Invizion

I bought some new HIDs from O-nex and was told that a relay wouldn't be necessary since the 7th gen Maxima headlight housing is already ready to handle HIDs. Has anybody besides Kmoney completed an installation without a relay without any problems? Would you advise against this?

Flip2cho

Quote:

Originally Posted by Invizion

I bought some new HIDs from O-nex and was told that a relay wouldn't be necessary since the 7th gen Maxima headlight housing is already ready to handle HIDs. Has anybody besides Kmoney completed an installation without a relay without any problems? Would you advise against this?

I am warning you I am going to get in depth on this to try and help anyone understand. Class is now in session...

The relay harness has nothing to do with with the headlight housing what so ever. The relay harness is only for protecting your factory wires...
Do you need a relay harness??? Ask yourself these questions...

1.) What is the maximum current draw of the new lights you are installing?

2.) What is the factory fuse size of the factory lights you are replacing??

Keep in mind that fuses are not meant to protect your equipment... The fuse's purpose is to protect the wire that is supplying power to your equipment. For example, if your factory fog lights have a 15 amp fuse then that means that the wire the factory used to power your factory fogs are only rated to carry up to 15 amps safely. Any more current put on the wire for a period of time could damage the wire by heat due to over current. At that point the fuse would open to protect the wiring from over heat/over current which could cause breakdown and/or melting. This is why you should NEVER use a higher amp fuse than what the wire is rated for.

3.) Is the new lights maximum amp draw less than the factory fuse for the lights you are replacing?
A.)If yes than the factory wires are safe for the new lights and will carry the inrush current at startup.
B.)If no then the factory wires are not able to give your new lights the current they need at start up and over time will cause pre mature failure of the ballast or bulbs.

The startup for HID lights come from an ignition spark to get the lights going. That "start up" spark is the highest current the HIDs will draw. After that it takes maybe half the current to keep them burning. It is very important for the life of the bulbs and the ballast that the ballast gets enough juice to supply the right amount of spark to start the lights up.

Most fuses or breakers take some time ( not a lot of time) to build up enough heat to break or blow. The heat comes from the current not having enough path to flow through. Another way to think of this to think of the power wire as a water hose, the current flow as the water flowing through the hose and the heat on the wire as the pressure build up in the hose. As water flows out the hose there is not that much pressure because the hose is large enough to carry the amount of water flowing through it. If you cover up half the hose with your thumb, the same amount of water wants to flow through the hose so the pressure is increased as it pushes through the restriction. The more you cover the hose the more pressure builds.
If you kink the hose and stop the water flow then open it back up suddenly the water jets out for a second and then returns to a normal flow. That would be like the in rush current draw. The smaller the wire the less it is able to carry the current draw and the more it heats up. Match the correct size wire with the current draw and your heat is reduced.

So all this being said, just because your fuse hasnt blown doent mean that everything is okay. You need to size the wire not for the RMS current flow but for the in-rush. If your wire is too small it won't be able to supply the ballast with enough juice to put off the correct amount of spark to get the bulbs to light correctly. The factory wires might be sized to the rms current flow but not for the inrush at start up and will not deliver the perfect spark and since the inrush is only brief at start-up it doesn't have enough time to build up enough heat to pop the under rated fuse. So don't think that it's the correct size just because your fuse hasn't blown yet.

What the relay harness does is it uses the factory power wires to close contacts to a new set of wires that are sized correctly to carry the inrush current that the ballast needs.

IH8SPM

I have aftermarket Hid's on my accord going on 100k miles of use and they have never caused a problem. I installed aftermarket Hid's on my jeep and the passenger side always went out. I installed a relay and it fixed the problem but in return caused a buzzing and clicking sound to be emitted when they first turned on. I ended up removing them and getting rid of the car. That Jeep uses a ground check system and that is what was causing my problems. Again I have had my kit for over 2.5 years never changed it and never a problem in the accord. Chances are you will have more problems with an aftermarket high output standalone bulbs then with any Hid kit on the market. But that’s just my 2 cents not a guarantee.

Invizion

I will see if I can get a relay on their but if not I don't think I will sweat it too much. Thanks for the lesson professor Flip2cho

Flip2cho

Hey I did warn you i was going to go into it a little deep to try and give people a basic understanding of not only what but understanding why aswell. I knew Id get responses like that and I laugh because I knew I was just asking for it when I started my "lesson". lol. There is always more than one way to get to an end result but there is a right way and a wrong one. Electrical engineering and basic simple physics is somthing I have a passion for and it is easy for me to get carried away but trust me I tried to keep things on a real simple level. Like I said though, can't say I didn't warn you !

cmspicer

I have 09' Maxima S, I'm trying to install fog lights, I have purchased & installed the Rt & Lt assys' and all the wires are connected, but they don't seem to work??? any help??? Do I need the SV steering column combo switch? Do I need to run my own wires? any help would be much appreciated.

Spice