Does anyone know if a set of P215/55R/17s (or possibly P225/55R/17s) would fit my vehicle for the winter. (2009, Premium).

I'm most concerned about the wheels themselves clearing the brake assembly. Is there a wheel hub diameter I should be looking to clear here. Anyone running those 17s mind telling me which wheels you have with them?

Thanks.

 

17s? i never seen a 7th gen with less than 18s on them...post up pics if u choose to put them on , would like to see this

 

According to Tire Rack they will. They're usually pretty good about that stuff.

 

My 1927 edition Kueffel & Esser slide rule says either of those sizes should fit under the 7th gen Maxima.

 

Thanks guys. I had seen on tirerack.com that they were willing to sell me those 17s for the vehicle..I get slightly nervous paying $500 in shipping and duty to get them over the border so it's good to get second opinions. And before you ask, yes even at that price they still beat what I would pay here in Canada

light, thanks for taking the time to measure. I had intended to do the same when trying to fit my wife's winters from an older vehicle last night. The 16s in question were no hopers (i.e would not fit over the brake calipers) and I was too flustered at the time to measure out for 17s.

I will post a confirmation when I get them installed.

 

Try 1010tires.com before you go crazy with $500 shipping+duty. Really great site with lots of tires and wheels possibly more then tirerack.com.

 

I just had a set of P215/55R/17 Blizzacks put on yesterday. No problem with the fit.

 

LOL!

Light, the slipstick does not have the precision to make the call. Give me an HP any day.

 

But . . . but . . . I just used baby talc to lubricate the the slide bar, ensuring the action is smooth and free. At least give me credit for moving up a notch from my old bead-on-rod manual abacus.

Like many folks, I am often not completely positive about the fit when stepping up many sizes in a tire. In the old days (1950s and 1960s), I would usually go to a dealer and stand the proposed tire next to a duplicate of the current tire, mentally adjusting for the additional height the proposed taller tire will add to the car, pause as I pretended to make complicated mental calculations, then turn to the tire salesperson and tell him to mount one on the front of the car, turn the steering lock-to-lock, and if it fits, mount the other three.

These days, I simply take the outside width (always in millimeters), then, determine the height above rim bead seat by using the profile (40, 45, 50, 55, etc) as a percentage of the outside width.

In other words, a 245/45VR18 tire is 245 mm at its widest point (outermost part of the sidewall). Since the profile is 45%, we calculate 45% of the total width (245 mm), and we get 110.25 mm, which is the height of the tread above the bead seat of the rim.

Using that method, we can actually draw a cross section of both the curent tire and the proposed tire on a sheet of paper, and compare them. If going to a smaller (shorter) or larger (taller) wheel, move the cross section of the proposed tire upward (if the new wheel is taller) or downward (if the new wheel is shorter) ONE-HALF inch for each FULL inch difference in size between the current and proposed wheels. This gives us the relationship between the current and proposed tires in relation to the fender, etc.

Having this exact difference in where the new tire will reach as compared to the old tire, we turn the front wheels of the car all the way to one side, then look under the front fender and determine if there is room at all points to accomodate the difference in size of the new tire.

 

Thanks for suggestions. 17s it will be.
1010tires.com has the tires/rims I'm looking for at $1952 (taxes/shipping included) Canadian, whereas tirerack gets them over the border and to my door for $1660 (taxes/shipping/government rape included) Canadian.

I don't know if it is the Canadian suppliers that are paying way over the odds for tires sold to Canadians, or if they're simply trying to take too much of a cut. Either way it's hard for me to support businesses that can't get anywhere near the US prices, and it's a shame.

 

Light, the problem is much easier to solve. The primary goal is to ensure that the speedometer and odo run correctly. This means that the rolling radius of the wheel has got to be maintained. You can go up or down in wheel size and get a variety of tires that will meet this criterion. Usually the matches are not perfect and the speedo and odo will be off a bit. If you wander too far, you also screw up the gearing of the car. But with the CVT, this may not be important.

Some ignore the speedo and go for looks. On a sporty car, lower profile is better. Off road, bigger is better. Venturing far off the Colonel's original recipe will also encounter wheel wheel interference.

See the link below for a handy Java app that does all the calculations for you.

http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

 

Can you post a link at tirerack's website that shows the rims your getting? 17's IS the smallest you can go...I just wish steel hubcentric rims were available.....

 

smeegle, here's what I'm looking at

 

Man thats a bummer. I was hoping to save you a few bucks. Such backwards thinking in this country sometimes.

 

Hey, those are good lookin...nice choice. Post some pic's once you have them on.

 

Ali at Tiremag in Concord On. hooked me up with 17" alloy wheels and Blizzak WS60 tires. Car rides nicely and looks pretty good as well. Of course the TPMS warning light is on, but so what? I know there is no malfunction and I know how to check my tire pressure.

 

Well, don't jus stand there....post pics for Chris-sakes!

 

He is in Canada. He was going to post pics, but by the time he got home, there was three feet of snow on the ground. The snow will gradually build up to around 11 or 12 feet by April, then gradually begin melting. The snow should be down to a foot of slush by June, at which time he will post pics.

 

I live in Canada as well. You're not that far off...but I wouldn't let that stop me!