VDC & Traction Control Problem
#1
VDC & Traction Control Problem
So twice now it has happened where the VDC and Traction Control lights come on and stay on and I gotta say I am really starting to get annoyed with it. I recorded a short video tonight of it right when it happened and I noticed it. You'll see in the video that I am pressing the button and the lights aren't shutting off and you'll also see that I am just parked on the side of the street. Any ideas as to what the heck is going on?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xvQhtdjfxNs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xvQhtdjfxNs
#2
sounds like a sensor malfunction to me. The same thing was happening to my last car 08 avenger r/t. The TCS and BAS light came on together then after a while with the car being off it went out. Seems like it was on and off similar to your maxima... Even when i pressed it like you the same thing, it wouldnt turn off.
#3
As both use the brake system, I would first start by checking my brake fluid levels. If that is fine, I would get a tow to the Service Center asap. It is possible that it is just a sensor, but it isn't a malfunction indicator that I would advise ignoring!
Please do let us know what the ultimate issue is!
Please do let us know what the ultimate issue is!
#8
Either the ABS lamp is not lit (in which case the fault is 'downstream' of the ABS) or it is (in which case the ABS system is supposed to take itself offline and leave you with purely mechanical/hydraulic brakes).
Worst case might be that you don't have the proper front to rear brake line pressure proportioning if there is any electronics involved with your brake force distribution.
IOW, you don't really need to have it towed/flatbedded as long as you drive with more caution than normal. Anticipating and avoiding places and situations where heavy emergency braking is likely would be a big step in this direction.
Norm
Last edited by Norm Peterson; 08-25-2010 at 06:02 AM.
#9
1st I just wanna apologize that it took me so long to post something up on here. I got a new job and have not been able to get on here as much as I would like to lately. Just an update for everyone; I am taking my car to get it checked out tomorrow finally so I will update by tomorrow night once I know more.
That is what some of my friends were saying tonight it could be possible but who knows. Tonight I payed attention and the parking brake light came on and as soon as that shut off the VDC & Traction light came on and stayed on.
Video isn't showing but thank you; I could never figure how to get those on the forums.
Ya I am thinking that as well now. I am actually thinking about getting rid of the Max and getting the new STI at some point if I can afford it. Gotta figure out my financing first.
Ya my friends were saying that tonight. That is some BS though cause the car is an 09' with only 27K on it. The sensors should not be going now and that just makes me think what is going to happen after the warranty runs out?
Since there is to much to type I am just going to make a list, lol.
Well I was braking it hard tonight actually wen't sideways around a corner and everything is fine and seems to be functioning properly so idk. I'll find out more tomorrow.
As both use the brake system, I would first start by checking my brake fluid levels. If that is fine, I would get a tow to the Service Center asap. It is possible that it is just a sensor, but it isn't a malfunction indicator that I would advise ignoring!
Please do let us know what the ultimate issue is!
Please do let us know what the ultimate issue is!
Video isn't showing but thank you; I could never figure how to get those on the forums.
Ya I am thinking that as well now. I am actually thinking about getting rid of the Max and getting the new STI at some point if I can afford it. Gotta figure out my financing first.
Since there is to much to type I am just going to make a list, lol.
- Spoiler Lifting
- Window motor drivers side replaced
- Driver side door rear lock (going to be replaced)
- Passanger side door rear lock (going to be replaced)
- VDC light coming on and staying on
- Traction control light coming on and staying on
- Brake light coming on and staying on
They are based on the ABS.
Either the ABS lamp is not lit (in which case the fault is 'downstream' of the ABS) or it is (in which case the ABS system is supposed to take itself offline and leave you with purely mechanical/hydraulic brakes).
Worst case might be that you don't have the proper front to rear brake line pressure proportioning if there is any electronics involved with your brake force distribution.
IOW, you don't really need to have it towed/flatbedded as long as you drive with more caution than normal. Anticipating and avoiding places and situations where heavy emergency braking is likely would be a big step in this direction.
Norm
Either the ABS lamp is not lit (in which case the fault is 'downstream' of the ABS) or it is (in which case the ABS system is supposed to take itself offline and leave you with purely mechanical/hydraulic brakes).
Worst case might be that you don't have the proper front to rear brake line pressure proportioning if there is any electronics involved with your brake force distribution.
IOW, you don't really need to have it towed/flatbedded as long as you drive with more caution than normal. Anticipating and avoiding places and situations where heavy emergency braking is likely would be a big step in this direction.
Norm
#11
UPDATE: Just wanted to let everyone know that after taking a trip to the dealership today come to find out my brake fluid was low apparently. I know someone above mentioned it but I would have through they would have checked that out about 3 weeks ago when I brought my car in for wheel vibration and they checked the brakes and rotors then but I guess not. Anyways the problem is gone so if anyone else experience this kind of problem the brake fluid is more than likely why.
#16
The onset of cool weather also tends to cause some fluids to shrink very slightly. Cool weather also causes air to shrink, and tires that were at 33 psi in hot weather could drop below 30 psi as winter arrives.
Or there could be a leak.
#17
Perhaps the initial brake fluid 'fill' in some cars was on the low side of tolerance, or perhaps the ABS needed to cycle a few times and drew off a few more cc's. Before ABS, you bench-bled the master cylinder, hooked up the lines, bled the four wheel cylinders and were done.
It might be a good thing to inspect brake fluid level upon taking delivery and shortly after. I doubt that one person in ten thousand does that now, other than in private sales.
Norm
It might be a good thing to inspect brake fluid level upon taking delivery and shortly after. I doubt that one person in ten thousand does that now, other than in private sales.
Norm
#18
Over the last week I had the same issue with the BRAKE light and VDC OFF indicator lighting up. It was the same thing KillaKam described.
I noticed first it when the leaving work. I make a hard left up a hill out of my parking lot, and that's when the lights went off. It's gotten progressively colder this week and the BRAKE light started lighting frequently under hard acceleration and when making turns, esp. when the engine was cold.
I checked the brake fluid level and it looked like it was right at the MIN line (when warm). Adding some brake fluid to the reservoir solved the problem. I think a combination of cold weather causing the fluid volume to drop and shifting fluid under driving conditions brought the volume below the warning sensor threshold.
I noticed first it when the leaving work. I make a hard left up a hill out of my parking lot, and that's when the lights went off. It's gotten progressively colder this week and the BRAKE light started lighting frequently under hard acceleration and when making turns, esp. when the engine was cold.
I checked the brake fluid level and it looked like it was right at the MIN line (when warm). Adding some brake fluid to the reservoir solved the problem. I think a combination of cold weather causing the fluid volume to drop and shifting fluid under driving conditions brought the volume below the warning sensor threshold.
#20
Glad I found this thread. My VDC and Traction lights came on today, and the brake light has been going on and off. Coincidentally enough, I just did my 30K maintenance where they were supposed to check that for me. Lovely. I'll bring it back in.
Thanks for the heads up!
Thanks for the heads up!
#21
Same here
I know we already gotten answers and I didnt read thru everything cuz I'm at the dealership right now and I have the same issues only thing is that all my warning indicators are on vdc, e brake, trac control, Check engine soon tmps . So I've been here damn near 3 hours they're doing a diagnostic Check that costing me 150 alone SMH.
#22
Not that bad
So just got the news brake master cylinder needs to be replace they will cover under warranty, but my rear brakes 90% gone so needs to be replaced $195 good thing is he waived the diagnostic fee of $150 so it's pretty much the Same **** and the sensors came up low fluids/ caps not tightened properly so for the indicators no issues. Oh and forgot to mention 2 nails in the rear tires that's why my tmps is on, so to plug both 30 and I need tires. Any suggestions on tires? Where to go,what to buy, how much to spend??HELP
#23
What to buy is the best performing tires that you can afford. Stretch a little if at all possible, rather than settle for round/black/cheap.
By performance I mean things like braking, wet braking, and wet/dry cornering grip/stability. Snow capability consistent with your winter driving needs and requirements.
Everything else is secondary, meaning that tread life expectancy, fuel efficiency, noise generation, and "launch grip" for acceleration are at best "tie-breakers" among the tires that made the cut in the previous paragraph.
Per the recent Consumer Reports summary of performance oriented tires, you do not have to spend top $ to get truly competitive performance.
Norm
By performance I mean things like braking, wet braking, and wet/dry cornering grip/stability. Snow capability consistent with your winter driving needs and requirements.
Everything else is secondary, meaning that tread life expectancy, fuel efficiency, noise generation, and "launch grip" for acceleration are at best "tie-breakers" among the tires that made the cut in the previous paragraph.
Per the recent Consumer Reports summary of performance oriented tires, you do not have to spend top $ to get truly competitive performance.
Norm
#24
VDC Off light & E-Brake light
My VDC OFF light would not turn off and when I accelerated hard the EBrake light would come on. After reading from all the posts I checked my brake fluid and it was low. After filling it up, both problems went away IMMEADIATELY!!! Thank you guys!!!!!
#26
It wouldn't exactly hurt to do a flush. Even if you don't get the ABS unit completely flushed (which probably requires a scan tool or other electronic involvement) you'll still be better off. For a street driven car, pick a DOT3 or DOT4 fluid with a high wet boiling point. Wet because the brake systems of most street driven cars do not get regular bleeding to drive out fluid that has absorbed a little moisture. High dry B.P. fluid is for track cars that see regular attention to fluid and which get flushed more frequently than the brakes on a street car get any attention at all.
Norm
Norm
#27
My 2010 sv had same prob. I notice brake light would flash on inclines and light would turn off while leveled. But not after vdc off and slip light remaining on. I took to carmax and asked to check my brake fluid level and it was low. No more problems. My 1006 titan did this when I needed new brake pads.
#28
It wouldn't exactly hurt to do a flush. Even if you don't get the ABS unit completely flushed (which probably requires a scan tool or other electronic involvement) you'll still be better off. For a street driven car, pick a DOT3 or DOT4 fluid with a high wet boiling point. Wet because the brake systems of most street driven cars do not get regular bleeding to drive out fluid that has absorbed a little moisture. High dry B.P. fluid is for track cars that see regular attention to fluid and which get flushed more frequently than the brakes on a street car get any attention at all.
Norm
Norm
Very interesting, Norm. I was not familiar with high wet and high dry brake fluids. Even at my advanced age, there are still new things I can learn. Thanks for the info.
#29
My 2010 sv had same prob. I notice brake light would flash on inclines and light would turn off while leveled. But not after vdc off and slip light remaining on. I took to carmax and asked to check my brake fluid level and it was low. No more problems. My 1006 titan did this when I needed new brake pads.
As low brake fluid (triggering these lights) can be caused by many things, including worn out brake pads, it is a good idea to have the pads looked at within a month or so after filling up the brake reservoir to make the lights go away, otherwise, we are clearing the warning lights without fixing the problem.
My pads have lasted longer on my 7th gen than on my 2nd thru 6th gens. I am well over 40K miles, and my service tech says my pads are still in fine shape. These are also the first brakes I have had in 65 1/2 years of driving that have stopped as smoothly as a baby's hind end for over five years. So wonderful to not have that intermittent chatter or grabbing that makes the rotors seem warped.
#31
Hey Guys,
I'm having the opposite, last night I went to turn my VDC on and by pressing and depressing the switch nothing will happen. I will not get the " VDC off " light on the dash coming on to let me know it is off. I checked my fluids and everything seems fine, looked into the fuse box, and it seems that it takes special 3 x 30amp fuses (not the mini fuses). I can confirm that upon starting the car I can see he VDC Off light come on and go back off, so it is not a bad bulb etc etc
Not sure what the problem could be.
I'm having the opposite, last night I went to turn my VDC on and by pressing and depressing the switch nothing will happen. I will not get the " VDC off " light on the dash coming on to let me know it is off. I checked my fluids and everything seems fine, looked into the fuse box, and it seems that it takes special 3 x 30amp fuses (not the mini fuses). I can confirm that upon starting the car I can see he VDC Off light come on and go back off, so it is not a bad bulb etc etc
Not sure what the problem could be.
Last edited by 09max_sv; 02-02-2014 at 04:08 PM.
#36
Your welcome
For some reason nissan has incorporated the brake problem or low brake fluid light into the traction control light . When fluid is lowered it takes up place in the system and needs the rear or to be topped of or change the pads and replace the rotors .
For some reason nissan has incorporated the brake problem or low brake fluid light into the traction control light . When fluid is lowered it takes up place in the system and needs the rear or to be topped of or change the pads and replace the rotors .
#37
One time when I was turning in the snow, the car was understeering, when all of a sudden then I felt this jerk in the direction I was turning while heard the ABS system work.
Perhaps that is why it is also linked to the TCS light.
#38
TCS and VDC are piggybacked on top of ABS - the ABS sensors are part of how they know that one or more wheels isn't spinning at an RPM consistent with the rest of them, and which one(s) to bring back in line with a little braking.
Why a low brake fluid situation trips the TCS/VDC is what nobody here seems to know. Unless there's a fear that air could find its way into the ABS hydraulic control unit and Nissan feels that people are more likely to bring the car in for service if the TC and VDC lamps are lit than if only a vague brake warning was given (and possibly getting interpreted as a P-brake partly on issue and ignored).
Norm
Why a low brake fluid situation trips the TCS/VDC is what nobody here seems to know. Unless there's a fear that air could find its way into the ABS hydraulic control unit and Nissan feels that people are more likely to bring the car in for service if the TC and VDC lamps are lit than if only a vague brake warning was given (and possibly getting interpreted as a P-brake partly on issue and ignored).
Norm
Last edited by Norm Peterson; 11-18-2014 at 04:21 AM. Reason: remove blank lines inserted by the forum software, spelng
#40
I suppose it'd be possible if the brakes were bled for some similar reason (including at pad replacement time) and the reservoir not refilled.
A low fluid level indication need not involve air in the system - if anything the indication is supposed to alert you to do something before exactly that condition happens.
Norm
A low fluid level indication need not involve air in the system - if anything the indication is supposed to alert you to do something before exactly that condition happens.
Norm