7th Generation Maxima (2009-2015) Come in and talk about the 7th generation Maxima

VDC & Traction Control Problem

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Old Aug 23, 2010 | 10:05 PM
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VDC & Traction Control Problem

So twice now it has happened where the VDC and Traction Control lights come on and stay on and I gotta say I am really starting to get annoyed with it. I recorded a short video tonight of it right when it happened and I noticed it. You'll see in the video that I am pressing the button and the lights aren't shutting off and you'll also see that I am just parked on the side of the street. Any ideas as to what the heck is going on?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xvQhtdjfxNs
Old Aug 23, 2010 | 10:35 PM
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sounds like a sensor malfunction to me. The same thing was happening to my last car 08 avenger r/t. The TCS and BAS light came on together then after a while with the car being off it went out. Seems like it was on and off similar to your maxima... Even when i pressed it like you the same thing, it wouldnt turn off.
Old Aug 24, 2010 | 02:54 AM
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As both use the brake system, I would first start by checking my brake fluid levels. If that is fine, I would get a tow to the Service Center asap. It is possible that it is just a sensor, but it isn't a malfunction indicator that I would advise ignoring!

Please do let us know what the ultimate issue is!
Old Aug 24, 2010 | 04:15 AM
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Here kam, I'll help ya out. Here's your video
Old Aug 24, 2010 | 08:03 PM
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Sorry for all your problems but dude I think you have a lemon.
Old Aug 24, 2010 | 08:17 PM
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I had that problem with my titan, it was a malfunctioning ABS/ speed sensor. If you have warranty take it in and have them fix it.
Old Aug 24, 2010 | 09:20 PM
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Kam how many other problems have you had with your 09?
Old Aug 25, 2010 | 05:58 AM
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Originally Posted by LtLeary
As both use the brake system, I would first start by checking my brake fluid levels. If that is fine, I would get a tow to the Service Center asap. It is possible that it is just a sensor, but it isn't a malfunction indicator that I would advise ignoring!
They are based on the ABS.

Either the ABS lamp is not lit (in which case the fault is 'downstream' of the ABS) or it is (in which case the ABS system is supposed to take itself offline and leave you with purely mechanical/hydraulic brakes).

Worst case might be that you don't have the proper front to rear brake line pressure proportioning if there is any electronics involved with your brake force distribution.

IOW, you don't really need to have it towed/flatbedded as long as you drive with more caution than normal. Anticipating and avoiding places and situations where heavy emergency braking is likely would be a big step in this direction.


Norm

Last edited by Norm Peterson; Aug 25, 2010 at 06:02 AM.
Old Aug 25, 2010 | 11:32 PM
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1st I just wanna apologize that it took me so long to post something up on here. I got a new job and have not been able to get on here as much as I would like to lately. Just an update for everyone; I am taking my car to get it checked out tomorrow finally so I will update by tomorrow night once I know more.

Originally Posted by LtLeary
As both use the brake system, I would first start by checking my brake fluid levels. If that is fine, I would get a tow to the Service Center asap. It is possible that it is just a sensor, but it isn't a malfunction indicator that I would advise ignoring!

Please do let us know what the ultimate issue is!
That is what some of my friends were saying tonight it could be possible but who knows. Tonight I payed attention and the parking brake light came on and as soon as that shut off the VDC & Traction light came on and stayed on.

Originally Posted by Flip2cho
Here kam, I'll help ya out. Here's your video
Video isn't showing but thank you; I could never figure how to get those on the forums.

Originally Posted by dauntlessmax
Sorry for all your problems but dude I think you have a lemon.
Ya I am thinking that as well now. I am actually thinking about getting rid of the Max and getting the new STI at some point if I can afford it. Gotta figure out my financing first.

Originally Posted by rtitan
I had that problem with my titan, it was a malfunctioning ABS/ speed sensor. If you have warranty take it in and have them fix it.
Ya my friends were saying that tonight. That is some BS though cause the car is an 09' with only 27K on it. The sensors should not be going now and that just makes me think what is going to happen after the warranty runs out?

Originally Posted by sgirgiss1214
Kam how many other problems have you had with your 09?
Since there is to much to type I am just going to make a list, lol.
  1. Spoiler Lifting
  2. Window motor drivers side replaced
  3. Driver side door rear lock (going to be replaced)
  4. Passanger side door rear lock (going to be replaced)
  5. VDC light coming on and staying on
  6. Traction control light coming on and staying on
  7. Brake light coming on and staying on

Originally Posted by Norm Peterson
They are based on the ABS.

Either the ABS lamp is not lit (in which case the fault is 'downstream' of the ABS) or it is (in which case the ABS system is supposed to take itself offline and leave you with purely mechanical/hydraulic brakes).

Worst case might be that you don't have the proper front to rear brake line pressure proportioning if there is any electronics involved with your brake force distribution.

IOW, you don't really need to have it towed/flatbedded as long as you drive with more caution than normal. Anticipating and avoiding places and situations where heavy emergency braking is likely would be a big step in this direction.


Norm
Well I was braking it hard tonight actually wen't sideways around a corner and everything is fine and seems to be functioning properly so idk. I'll find out more tomorrow.
Old Aug 26, 2010 | 02:56 PM
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wow I didn't realize you had that many problems, hope its nothing too serious!
Old Aug 26, 2010 | 05:56 PM
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UPDATE: Just wanted to let everyone know that after taking a trip to the dealership today come to find out my brake fluid was low apparently. I know someone above mentioned it but I would have through they would have checked that out about 3 weeks ago when I brought my car in for wheel vibration and they checked the brakes and rotors then but I guess not. Anyways the problem is gone so if anyone else experience this kind of problem the brake fluid is more than likely why.
Old Nov 5, 2010 | 07:19 PM
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same problem here Kam, $100 later @ the dealer, they told me brake fluid was low, I also thought it was a warranty problem, next time I will check here 1st....
Old Nov 5, 2010 | 07:31 PM
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Can we disable the traction control and vdc byt unpluging the wheel sensors and or pulling any fuses?Even with vdc off the TC still kicks in.
Old Nov 6, 2010 | 01:12 PM
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lol yeah i was gonna say, i had the exact same problem and it was the brake fluid well glad u got it fixed!
Old Nov 9, 2010 | 04:49 PM
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Just took my car in for the same thing? Why is it that the brake fluid is low I never had this problem before with any of my other maxima's. Could there be a leak somewhere?
Old Nov 10, 2010 | 11:34 PM
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Originally Posted by BMWHIGH1
Just took my car in for the same thing? Why is it that the brake fluid is low I never had this problem before with any of my other maxima's. Could there be a leak somewhere?
How many miles on the odo? As brake parts gradually mesh into each other more snugly over time, and as brake parts gradually wear down, the brake fluid has to extend further into the tubes that carry it to each wheel. This may not be exactly what you are facing, but that is something I have experienced since I first began driving in the late 1940s. Of course this problem was much more pronounced with drum brakes than with disk brakes.

The onset of cool weather also tends to cause some fluids to shrink very slightly. Cool weather also causes air to shrink, and tires that were at 33 psi in hot weather could drop below 30 psi as winter arrives.

Or there could be a leak.
Old Nov 11, 2010 | 03:37 AM
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Perhaps the initial brake fluid 'fill' in some cars was on the low side of tolerance, or perhaps the ABS needed to cycle a few times and drew off a few more cc's. Before ABS, you bench-bled the master cylinder, hooked up the lines, bled the four wheel cylinders and were done.

It might be a good thing to inspect brake fluid level upon taking delivery and shortly after. I doubt that one person in ten thousand does that now, other than in private sales.


Norm
Old Dec 10, 2010 | 08:25 AM
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Over the last week I had the same issue with the BRAKE light and VDC OFF indicator lighting up. It was the same thing KillaKam described.

I noticed first it when the leaving work. I make a hard left up a hill out of my parking lot, and that's when the lights went off. It's gotten progressively colder this week and the BRAKE light started lighting frequently under hard acceleration and when making turns, esp. when the engine was cold.

I checked the brake fluid level and it looked like it was right at the MIN line (when warm). Adding some brake fluid to the reservoir solved the problem. I think a combination of cold weather causing the fluid volume to drop and shifting fluid under driving conditions brought the volume below the warning sensor threshold.
Old Dec 12, 2010 | 06:04 AM
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Keep your eye on that fluid level. It may well be that fluid contraction is at least partly responsible, but it would be extremely unwise to assume that that is the only reason.


Norm
Old Dec 12, 2010 | 10:37 PM
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Glad I found this thread. My VDC and Traction lights came on today, and the brake light has been going on and off. Coincidentally enough, I just did my 30K maintenance where they were supposed to check that for me. Lovely. I'll bring it back in.

Thanks for the heads up!
Old Dec 13, 2010 | 06:06 AM
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Same here

I know we already gotten answers and I didnt read thru everything cuz I'm at the dealership right now and I have the same issues only thing is that all my warning indicators are on vdc, e brake, trac control, Check engine soon tmps . So I've been here damn near 3 hours they're doing a diagnostic Check that costing me 150 alone SMH.
Old Dec 13, 2010 | 06:37 AM
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Not that bad

So just got the news brake master cylinder needs to be replace they will cover under warranty, but my rear brakes 90% gone so needs to be replaced $195 good thing is he waived the diagnostic fee of $150 so it's pretty much the Same **** and the sensors came up low fluids/ caps not tightened properly so for the indicators no issues. Oh and forgot to mention 2 nails in the rear tires that's why my tmps is on, so to plug both 30 and I need tires. Any suggestions on tires? Where to go,what to buy, how much to spend??HELP
Old Dec 13, 2010 | 04:49 PM
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What to buy is the best performing tires that you can afford. Stretch a little if at all possible, rather than settle for round/black/cheap.

By performance I mean things like braking, wet braking, and wet/dry cornering grip/stability. Snow capability consistent with your winter driving needs and requirements.

Everything else is secondary, meaning that tread life expectancy, fuel efficiency, noise generation, and "launch grip" for acceleration are at best "tie-breakers" among the tires that made the cut in the previous paragraph.

Per the recent Consumer Reports summary of performance oriented tires, you do not have to spend top $ to get truly competitive performance.


Norm
Old Jan 19, 2012 | 05:41 AM
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VDC Off light & E-Brake light

My VDC OFF light would not turn off and when I accelerated hard the EBrake light would come on. After reading from all the posts I checked my brake fluid and it was low. After filling it up, both problems went away IMMEADIATELY!!! Thank you guys!!!!!
Old Dec 30, 2013 | 12:36 PM
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So what type of fluid to use? Anything specific? Just picked up a '10 and I'm not a fan of mixing different types of fluid.
Old Dec 30, 2013 | 02:05 PM
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It wouldn't exactly hurt to do a flush. Even if you don't get the ABS unit completely flushed (which probably requires a scan tool or other electronic involvement) you'll still be better off. For a street driven car, pick a DOT3 or DOT4 fluid with a high wet boiling point. Wet because the brake systems of most street driven cars do not get regular bleeding to drive out fluid that has absorbed a little moisture. High dry B.P. fluid is for track cars that see regular attention to fluid and which get flushed more frequently than the brakes on a street car get any attention at all.


Norm
Old Jan 1, 2014 | 12:28 AM
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My 2010 sv had same prob. I notice brake light would flash on inclines and light would turn off while leveled. But not after vdc off and slip light remaining on. I took to carmax and asked to check my brake fluid level and it was low. No more problems. My 1006 titan did this when I needed new brake pads.
Old Jan 1, 2014 | 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Norm Peterson
It wouldn't exactly hurt to do a flush. Even if you don't get the ABS unit completely flushed (which probably requires a scan tool or other electronic involvement) you'll still be better off. For a street driven car, pick a DOT3 or DOT4 fluid with a high wet boiling point. Wet because the brake systems of most street driven cars do not get regular bleeding to drive out fluid that has absorbed a little moisture. High dry B.P. fluid is for track cars that see regular attention to fluid and which get flushed more frequently than the brakes on a street car get any attention at all.

Norm

Very interesting, Norm. I was not familiar with high wet and high dry brake fluids. Even at my advanced age, there are still new things I can learn. Thanks for the info.
Old Jan 1, 2014 | 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by cwwortham
My 2010 sv had same prob. I notice brake light would flash on inclines and light would turn off while leveled. But not after vdc off and slip light remaining on. I took to carmax and asked to check my brake fluid level and it was low. No more problems. My 1006 titan did this when I needed new brake pads.

As low brake fluid (triggering these lights) can be caused by many things, including worn out brake pads, it is a good idea to have the pads looked at within a month or so after filling up the brake reservoir to make the lights go away, otherwise, we are clearing the warning lights without fixing the problem.

My pads have lasted longer on my 7th gen than on my 2nd thru 6th gens. I am well over 40K miles, and my service tech says my pads are still in fine shape. These are also the first brakes I have had in 65 1/2 years of driving that have stopped as smoothly as a baby's hind end for over five years. So wonderful to not have that intermittent chatter or grabbing that makes the rotors seem warped.
Old Jan 3, 2014 | 07:01 PM
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I didn't think to check my break pads cause car was stopping so smooth. I figured it was electrical. But I will check pads when o get oil changed at 60000.
Old Feb 2, 2014 | 03:52 PM
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Hey Guys,

I'm having the opposite, last night I went to turn my VDC on and by pressing and depressing the switch nothing will happen. I will not get the " VDC off " light on the dash coming on to let me know it is off. I checked my fluids and everything seems fine, looked into the fuse box, and it seems that it takes special 3 x 30amp fuses (not the mini fuses). I can confirm that upon starting the car I can see he VDC Off light come on and go back off, so it is not a bad bulb etc etc

Not sure what the problem could be.

Last edited by 09max_sv; Feb 2, 2014 at 04:08 PM.
Old Feb 2, 2014 | 04:03 PM
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I think the solution was low brake fluid in a previous thread .
Old Feb 2, 2014 | 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by koreanthunda
I think the solution was low brake fluid in a previous thread .
Sorry I meant to say ON. I kinda hate the VDC in winter weather.
Old Feb 2, 2014 | 07:14 PM
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Check the brake fluid
Old Nov 16, 2014 | 01:51 PM
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Same thing here guys, temps dropped and tire pressure decreased a bit. Also this light is coming on and staying on. Brake fluid re-fill is the solution! appreciate the support!

2010 Nissan Maxima 3.5 SV
Old Nov 16, 2014 | 07:14 PM
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Your welcome

For some reason nissan has incorporated the brake problem or low brake fluid light into the traction control light . When fluid is lowered it takes up place in the system and needs the rear or to be topped of or change the pads and replace the rotors .
Old Nov 17, 2014 | 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by koreanthunda
Your welcome

For some reason nissan has incorporated the brake problem or low brake fluid light into the traction control light . When fluid is lowered it takes up place in the system and needs the rear or to be topped of or change the pads and replace the rotors .
Does not the TCS also do selective individual wheel braking as well?
One time when I was turning in the snow, the car was understeering, when all of a sudden then I felt this jerk in the direction I was turning while heard the ABS system work.
Perhaps that is why it is also linked to the TCS light.
Old Nov 17, 2014 | 10:09 AM
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TCS and VDC are piggybacked on top of ABS - the ABS sensors are part of how they know that one or more wheels isn't spinning at an RPM consistent with the rest of them, and which one(s) to bring back in line with a little braking.

Why a low brake fluid situation trips the TCS/VDC is what nobody here seems to know. Unless there's a fear that air could find its way into the ABS hydraulic control unit and Nissan feels that people are more likely to bring the car in for service if the TC and VDC lamps are lit than if only a vague brake warning was given (and possibly getting interpreted as a P-brake partly on issue and ignored).


Norm

Last edited by Norm Peterson; Nov 18, 2014 at 04:21 AM. Reason: remove blank lines inserted by the forum software, spelng
Old Nov 17, 2014 | 05:49 PM
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There is no way that you fluid would go low enough because of low pads . Your abs system is lower than the reservoir therefore it will never produce air unless you have a fluid leak .
Old Nov 18, 2014 | 04:40 AM
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I suppose it'd be possible if the brakes were bled for some similar reason (including at pad replacement time) and the reservoir not refilled.


A low fluid level indication need not involve air in the system - if anything the indication is supposed to alert you to do something before exactly that condition happens.


Norm



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