2009-2010 Alignment pulls right?
09-09-2010, 03:34 PM
#42
for all those who are lowered, did you try eibach aligment kit? Would it help the situation?
http://www.tirerack.com/suspension/S...ar=S&brand=all
http://www.tirerack.com/suspension/S...ar=S&brand=all
09-09-2010, 04:06 PM
#43
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 5
I have a '10 with everything stock (nothing lowered or new rims), and I noticed it pulls to the right a bit, and it is a little worse at higher speeds. I thought it was just an alignment issue and was going to take it in to get it fixed at my next oil change but after reading all these posts...
09-10-2010, 04:25 PM
#45
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: state of confusion
Posts: 1,341
If you can completely turn the VDC off, probably so. But some systems only let you turn off part of the VDC "interference", usually the throttle cut part of it.
A better test might be to temporarily unplug one wheel sensor so that the ABS and everything that relies on that goes to sleep.
Norm
A better test might be to temporarily unplug one wheel sensor so that the ABS and everything that relies on that goes to sleep.
Norm
09-10-2010, 11:28 PM
#46
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 51
I thought i was going crazy!!!
I have a 2010 SV with 1600 miles( suspension, wheels, and tires still stock)...It started pulling to the right more noticeably around 1000 miles.
So far I've taken it to the dealer once and they performed a high speed tire balance and stated that everything else is fine. The second i drove off i noticed right away that it got worse. Now, not only does it pull and sometimes wander, theres a slight vibration in the car coming from the front end at higher speeds (usually aroung 80mph). This is starting to drive me nuts...I've never had this issue with any other brand new car @ 1600 miles.
I've given it about a week since the visit to the dealer and I've been waiting to see if the problem corrects itself. The problem sometimes comes and goes and just when i think its okay it comes back again, so i guess I'll be making another trip out to the dealer.
I would love to know if there's anything we can do??
I have a 2010 SV with 1600 miles( suspension, wheels, and tires still stock)...It started pulling to the right more noticeably around 1000 miles.
So far I've taken it to the dealer once and they performed a high speed tire balance and stated that everything else is fine. The second i drove off i noticed right away that it got worse. Now, not only does it pull and sometimes wander, theres a slight vibration in the car coming from the front end at higher speeds (usually aroung 80mph). This is starting to drive me nuts...I've never had this issue with any other brand new car @ 1600 miles.
I've given it about a week since the visit to the dealer and I've been waiting to see if the problem corrects itself. The problem sometimes comes and goes and just when i think its okay it comes back again, so i guess I'll be making another trip out to the dealer.
I would love to know if there's anything we can do??
09-13-2010, 12:03 PM
#47
Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 105
for all those who are lowered, did you try eibach aligment kit? Would it help the situation?
http://www.tirerack.com/suspension/S...ar=S&brand=all
http://www.tirerack.com/suspension/S...ar=S&brand=all
09-13-2010, 02:12 PM
#48
09-22-2010, 09:30 AM
#50
Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 84
WOW! Not to be negative but im glad im not the only one...
i bought my Maxima SV with 18" wheels about a month and a half ago. i would say that not even 100 miles on the car and i noticed it pulling to the right.
i work at Nissan...so as soon as i could i took it in to have it looked at. they checked the alignment and said that it was a little off and they corrected it.
well, on my way home i noticed that it was still pulling to the right! but even worse now!
so the next morning i take it back in...we all know eachother in there so they were makin jokes saying im crazy, and its just me. that the road will make the car pull to the right cause of the water runoff...
i know its not me, its the car...i had an 08 Altima that i bought brand new, Base $22,000 car. never had this problem in the 2 1/2 years that i owned it. always drove straight...i paid $40,000 for this car, i more then expect it to drive much better then the Altima did!
so put it back on the alignment rack and turns out the rear toe was pointing to the right on both sides somehow...idk. so they correct it and im there the whole time watching and all the specs were near perfect...
so im thinking sweet, they messed up and now it will be all good...NOPE! still pulls to the right
its driving me crazy! brand new car and im constantly correcting it! im used to driving with my left hand at about 9 o'clock on the steering wheel cause i used to own a stick shift...i have to correct it so often that my thumb starts to hurt so i have been trying to train myself to drive with both hands and just deal with it...
screw that! its going back in for them to figure out the problem...
i love my Maxima but i unfortunately have to say i hate driving it half the time.
sorry for my long rant. if we figure out the problem i will def post it here.
thanks!
i bought my Maxima SV with 18" wheels about a month and a half ago. i would say that not even 100 miles on the car and i noticed it pulling to the right.
i work at Nissan...so as soon as i could i took it in to have it looked at. they checked the alignment and said that it was a little off and they corrected it.
well, on my way home i noticed that it was still pulling to the right! but even worse now!
so the next morning i take it back in...we all know eachother in there so they were makin jokes saying im crazy, and its just me. that the road will make the car pull to the right cause of the water runoff...
i know its not me, its the car...i had an 08 Altima that i bought brand new, Base $22,000 car. never had this problem in the 2 1/2 years that i owned it. always drove straight...i paid $40,000 for this car, i more then expect it to drive much better then the Altima did!
so put it back on the alignment rack and turns out the rear toe was pointing to the right on both sides somehow...idk. so they correct it and im there the whole time watching and all the specs were near perfect...
so im thinking sweet, they messed up and now it will be all good...NOPE! still pulls to the right
its driving me crazy! brand new car and im constantly correcting it! im used to driving with my left hand at about 9 o'clock on the steering wheel cause i used to own a stick shift...i have to correct it so often that my thumb starts to hurt so i have been trying to train myself to drive with both hands and just deal with it...
screw that! its going back in for them to figure out the problem...
i love my Maxima but i unfortunately have to say i hate driving it half the time.
sorry for my long rant. if we figure out the problem i will def post it here.
thanks!
09-22-2010, 06:41 PM
#52
Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 62
I lowered my Maxima and had this issue, they got some bolt for the Eibach kit and fixed it a little bit, then I added 20" wheels and pulled. Got an aligment and fixed issue. But comes back after few weeks. So good thing I have free alignments.
09-23-2010, 03:43 AM
#53
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: state of confusion
Posts: 1,341
But you shouldn't have to rely on the weight of your left arm to offset a steering tendency that shouldn't be there in the first place.
Norm
09-23-2010, 02:52 PM
#54
Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 234
Something else of note: this car doesn't really have a centering reflex. At some speeds, it'll hold turns in either direction even if you're not touching the wheel. If you're testing for drift, the car must be perfectly straight and level from the outset.
09-25-2010, 10:19 AM
#55
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Gainesville, FL
Posts: 52
When I got my Max in June, I had this problem of pulling to the right, as well as general "wandering" big-time. I've made a bunch of postings on the subject in other threads, and finally decided to change from the Goodyear RSA's to Bridgestone Potenza RE760s. I feel like they made all the difference, and changing tires seems to have improved tracking for other guys as well (see those threads). Most of the postings in this thread were made since I made the tire change -- there were nowhere near this many "pulling to the right" posts at that time! I thought I was crazy, and the few that responded to my posts, more often than not, said something to the effect "gee, mine doesn't pull..." and we'd go from there. And like most of the other people posting here, I got VERY tired of being told that "road crown" (for rain runoff) was the cause. As another poster similarly said, I've been driving for 35 years. This ain't my first rodeo -- I have owned some nice cars and some so-so cars, but this is just odd. And I also agree with the other posters who mentioned just how tiring this "constant correction" becomes on a long road trip. Before my new tires, I took a 90 minute drive on I-75 and it drove me nuts -- little by little.
I too feel like there isn't a "comfortable center" to the steering. My 2003 G35 has it. I recently had a chance to drive a brand new Ford Taurus -- it had a very solid center feeling to the steering. I honestly believe that this is one of those things that if Nissan understood there was a problem, it could be fixed -- if not on our cars, in future years.
So even though my problem is much-improved, it remains the only thing that continues to bother me.
I guarantee if you tell all of this to the service manager at your local Nissan dealership, they'll say they're unaware of any problems (I don't think they're hiding anything). Further, if they took just ten minutes to drive our cars, they'd think we were crazy. It's just not that kind of problem, that you see in ten minutes. You have to live with it for a few hours or days.
What I do think is that few of them take the time, as professionals, to read any of these blogs and see what problems are showing up, over and over, out there in the real world. They only care once the complaint gets to their counter. I too wish there was a procedure to "bend Nissan's ear" in a meaningful way to get them to understand there is an issue here that should have been addressed by the second year of the 7th gen.
I too feel like there isn't a "comfortable center" to the steering. My 2003 G35 has it. I recently had a chance to drive a brand new Ford Taurus -- it had a very solid center feeling to the steering. I honestly believe that this is one of those things that if Nissan understood there was a problem, it could be fixed -- if not on our cars, in future years.
So even though my problem is much-improved, it remains the only thing that continues to bother me.
I guarantee if you tell all of this to the service manager at your local Nissan dealership, they'll say they're unaware of any problems (I don't think they're hiding anything). Further, if they took just ten minutes to drive our cars, they'd think we were crazy. It's just not that kind of problem, that you see in ten minutes. You have to live with it for a few hours or days.
What I do think is that few of them take the time, as professionals, to read any of these blogs and see what problems are showing up, over and over, out there in the real world. They only care once the complaint gets to their counter. I too wish there was a procedure to "bend Nissan's ear" in a meaningful way to get them to understand there is an issue here that should have been addressed by the second year of the 7th gen.
09-25-2010, 10:27 AM
#56
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 738
When I got my Max in June, I had this problem of pulling to the right, as well as general "wandering" big-time. I've made a bunch of postings on the subject in other threads, and finally decided to change from the Goodyear RSA's to Bridgestone Potenza RE760s. I feel like they made all the difference, and changing tires seems to have improved tracking for other guys as well (see those threads). Most of the postings in this thread were made since I made the tire change -- there were nowhere near this many "pulling to the right" posts at that time! I thought I was crazy, and the few that responded to my posts, more often than not, said something to the effect "gee, mine doesn't pull..." and we'd go from there. And like most of the other people posting here, I got VERY tired of being told that "road crown" (for rain runoff) was the cause. As another poster similarly said, I've been driving for 35 years. This ain't my first rodeo -- I have owned some nice cars and some so-so cars, but this is just odd. And I also agree with the other posters who mentioned just how tiring this "constant correction" becomes on a long road trip. Before my new tires, I took a 90 minute drive on I-75 and it drove me nuts -- little by little.
I too feel like there isn't a "comfortable center" to the steering. My 2003 G35 has it. I recently had a chance to drive a brand new Ford Taurus -- it had a very solid center feeling to the steering. I honestly believe that this is one of those things that if Nissan understood there was a problem, it could be fixed -- if not on our cars, in future years.
So even though my problem is much-improved, it remains the only thing that continues to bother me.
I guarantee if you tell all of this to the service manager at your local Nissan dealership, they'll say they're unaware of any problems (I don't think they're hiding anything). Further, if they took just ten minutes to drive our cars, they'd think we were crazy. It's just not that kind of problem, that you see in ten minutes. You have to live with it for a few hours or days.
What I do think is that few of them take the time, as professionals, to read any of these blogs and see what problems are showing up, over and over, out there in the real world. They only care once the complaint gets to their counter. I too wish there was a procedure to "bend Nissan's ear" in a meaningful way to get them to understand there is an issue here that should have been addressed by the second year of the 7th gen.
I too feel like there isn't a "comfortable center" to the steering. My 2003 G35 has it. I recently had a chance to drive a brand new Ford Taurus -- it had a very solid center feeling to the steering. I honestly believe that this is one of those things that if Nissan understood there was a problem, it could be fixed -- if not on our cars, in future years.
So even though my problem is much-improved, it remains the only thing that continues to bother me.
I guarantee if you tell all of this to the service manager at your local Nissan dealership, they'll say they're unaware of any problems (I don't think they're hiding anything). Further, if they took just ten minutes to drive our cars, they'd think we were crazy. It's just not that kind of problem, that you see in ten minutes. You have to live with it for a few hours or days.
What I do think is that few of them take the time, as professionals, to read any of these blogs and see what problems are showing up, over and over, out there in the real world. They only care once the complaint gets to their counter. I too wish there was a procedure to "bend Nissan's ear" in a meaningful way to get them to understand there is an issue here that should have been addressed by the second year of the 7th gen.
It just continues to amaze me why Infiniti and Nissan continue to put these absolutely POS RS-A's as OEM on some of their vehicles
09-26-2010, 11:42 AM
#57
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Hot Springs Village, AR
Posts: 546
No problems with my '09 SV Sport. I had an alignment done at 15,000 miles as I do with all new vehicles after the front end parts have a chance to "get acquainted". The alignment was slightly off but not enough to cause any real problems. The car tracked true before and after the alignment, only pulling slightly to the right on roads that are crowned. One thing that can cause the vehicle to pull either right or left is having different tire pressures side to side. Another thing to try is to swap the front tires (if they are not directional) as sometimes they can cause the vehicle to pull slightly.
09-30-2010, 07:41 PM
#58
Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 84
all tire pressure is set to Nissan spec and swapped the front wheels left to right, right to left...problem still exists
10-01-2010, 05:03 AM
#59
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 46
No problems with my '09 SV Sport. I had an alignment done at 15,000 miles as I do with all new vehicles after the front end parts have a chance to "get acquainted". The alignment was slightly off but not enough to cause any real problems. The car tracked true before and after the alignment, only pulling slightly to the right on roads that are crowned. One thing that can cause the vehicle to pull either right or left is having different tire pressures side to side. Another thing to try is to swap the front tires (if they are not directional) as sometimes they can cause the vehicle to pull slightly.
My daily commute involves about 90 miles of interstate daily. I always have to modify the front pressures after a visit to the tire shop to get my cars (Nissan Frontier pickup, 97 Gen4 Maxima, 2009 Ford Fusion, and 2009 Gen7 Maxima, 2007 Chevrolet Malibu) to track the way I want on the freeway. I tend to drive with my finger tips while on cruise control and I'm not fully grasping the wheel. I'm very sensitive to the way any car I drive is tracking and can feel road surface crowning and pavement irregularities.
The specific issue I've described isn't unique to the Maxima. I usually end up running 2-3 psi more in the right front than the left front thereby decreasing the rolling resistance of the right front wheel slightly.
Nissan specs on tire pressure are just recommendations and can be changed/tuned by the user depending on tire construction and application specific needs! My specific goals are to have the car track straight on a major interstate freeway at 80 mph.
If the pull you are describing is more significant than just a persistent wandering to the right and a slight pressure adjustment doesn't help, then that's another story entirely ....
Live long, and prosper
Jerry L. Gubka
10-01-2010, 06:03 AM
#60
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: state of confusion
Posts: 1,341
While it is possible to tinker with pressures to "correct" a tendency to drift, when you do this you're also making the car "less symmetric" when it comes to making left turns vs rights, and potentially introducing a yaw moment when braking. This probably has VDC and/or ABS consequences.
I'm not at all opposed to tuning with tire pressures if it's to enhance some particular aspect of performance (or temporary load carrying capacity). But with the possible exception of driving on an oval race track I'd stay far away from using tire pressures as a means of correcting (or enhancing) a steering asymmetry.
Norm
Last edited by Norm Peterson; 10-01-2010 at 06:07 AM.
10-01-2010, 08:13 AM
#61
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 1
Pulling issue resolved...for now.
Well...I'm the customer who's car this thread was started about and here's the latest as of this morning:
1-Car pulled and shimmied from day1 with stock springs
2-Lowered car with Eibach Pro kit (With Camber kit) and added 20" wheels. At that time the car handled better but still had the same pull and vibrations.
3-Re-installed the stock springs so the dealer would agree to work on the car.
4-Nissan engineering sent the dealer a set of front springs for the car (Which I had the dealer measure for comparison against the original springs - The matched up)
5-As of this morning the car no longer pulls and most of the vibration is gone.
I'm at a loss at this point but seems there is something different about the new set of front springs Nissan sent the dealer. The explanation supposedly is that engineering had seen cars with similar issues and attributed the vibration to the original springs bowing. I'll be talking to Eibach & Stillen later today to see if that have any helpful information.
1-Car pulled and shimmied from day1 with stock springs
2-Lowered car with Eibach Pro kit (With Camber kit) and added 20" wheels. At that time the car handled better but still had the same pull and vibrations.
3-Re-installed the stock springs so the dealer would agree to work on the car.
4-Nissan engineering sent the dealer a set of front springs for the car (Which I had the dealer measure for comparison against the original springs - The matched up)
5-As of this morning the car no longer pulls and most of the vibration is gone.
I'm at a loss at this point but seems there is something different about the new set of front springs Nissan sent the dealer. The explanation supposedly is that engineering had seen cars with similar issues and attributed the vibration to the original springs bowing. I'll be talking to Eibach & Stillen later today to see if that have any helpful information.
10-01-2010, 06:10 PM
#62
Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 84
i thought about lowering the pressure in one tire to offset it "temporarily". having your tire pressure too low or high will cause uneven wear. too high will cause more wear in the center of the tire and too low will cause more wear on the outer edges of the tire and of course will not tract to the road the way it was meant to.
also, if the car is pulling due to alignment problems forcing it to go the other way will most likely cause uneven wear due to the stress on the rubber of the tire
so those 2 options are not an option for me...
i have mentioned to my tech that changing the tires helped solve the problem. i will mention replacing the springs also helped.
i will post any updates...i just want my Max to drive straight the way that its supposed to...
thanks
Brian
also, if the car is pulling due to alignment problems forcing it to go the other way will most likely cause uneven wear due to the stress on the rubber of the tire
so those 2 options are not an option for me...
i have mentioned to my tech that changing the tires helped solve the problem. i will mention replacing the springs also helped.
i will post any updates...i just want my Max to drive straight the way that its supposed to...
thanks
Brian
10-02-2010, 01:28 PM
#63
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 32
Just to throw this out there....wondering if there's any relation to whether it's a premium or sport suspension? I've seen posts about both, but it might be worth starting a poll to see if there tends to be occurrences with one more than the other, or it's pretty prevalent with both. Hey, I've seen some polles about worse topics than this--LOL
Thoughts?
Thoughts?
10-04-2010, 07:36 PM
#66
Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 105
Well I went to nissan help, but could not get access to this service bulletin. I logged in as a guest but it was still locked. Does anyone have a paying account with nissan help that can post the full bulletin for this issue. Also, it looks like this bulletin is from 2009 and is a generic bulletin for all vehicles, is this really a new issue? or has nissan know about it the whole time?
Still having the pull to the right. VERY ANNOYING!
2009 Maxima 2009 Nissan Maxima Service Bulletins
New entries announced in forum Latest Uploads
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Entries
NTB08-097b -REVISED-
ALL NISSAN MODELS; ALIGNMENT AND ROAD CROWN
Customers may report that their vehicle “pulls” or the steering wheel is “off-center”. This bulletin discusses these subjects and provides diagnostic and repair information.
Still having the pull to the right. VERY ANNOYING!
2009 Maxima 2009 Nissan Maxima Service Bulletins
New entries announced in forum Latest Uploads
Allowances: 0 files/0 used
Entries
NTB08-097b -REVISED-ALL NISSAN MODELS; ALIGNMENT AND ROAD CROWN
Customers may report that their vehicle “pulls” or the steering wheel is “off-center”. This bulletin discusses these subjects and provides diagnostic and repair information.
Last edited by bmanbmv; 10-04-2010 at 07:39 PM.
10-04-2010, 08:10 PM
#67
Here is the txt version of the tsb:
Classification: Reference: Date:
ST08-001b NTB08-097b August 26, 2009
Classification: Reference: Date:
ST08-001b NTB08-097b August 26, 2009
ALIGNMENT AND ROAD CROWN
This bulletin has been amended. The “Date” has been changed so the Applied Vehicles include the
latest Models. No other changes have been made. Please discard previous versions of this bulletin.
APPLIED VEHICLES: All Nissan - except GT-R
SERVICE INFORMATION
Customers may report that their vehicle “pulls” or the steering wheel is “off-center”. This
bulletin discusses these subjects and provides diagnostic and repair information.
If a vehicle drifts to one side of the road, it may be the normal result of road crown. Most
roads in the United States are built with a “crown” to help rain water drain from the road
surface. The slope of the road crown varies from place to place. In most cases the crown
slopes 2 to 3 degrees to the right.
Vehicles have a natural tendency to drift to the low side of the crown. The greater the slope
of the crown, the faster the vehicle will drift in that direction.
Tires and vehicles are designed to counteract the effect of typical road crown, but may not
fully counteract the effect of a highly crowned road.
Some freeways slope to both the left and right from the center. When driving on a freeway
that slops in both directions, a vehicle may exhibit a small amount of drift to the left when
driving in the left lane and a small amount of drift to the right when driving in the right lane.
This bulletin does not address road crown issues because they are not vehicle
related, although the customer may incorrectly perceive them to be. Use the information
provided in this bulletin to identify and repair other types of "vehicle pull".
Incident Description:
Pull
The vehicle consistently drifts to one side while driving at a constant speed on a straight,
flat road.
•
A vehicle is said to “pull” if it completes a lane change in less than 7 seconds (with
no steering correction from the driver) when driving at 60 MPH on a road with less
than 2 degrees road crown slope. All four wheels must pass into the other lane
during this time (7 seconds).
Nissan Bulletins are intended for use by qualified technicians, not 'do-it-yourselfers'. Qualified technicians are
properly trained individuals who have the equipment, tools, safety instruction, and know-how to do a job
properly and safely. NOTE: If you believe that a described condition may apply to a particular vehicle, DO
NOT assume that it does. See your Nissan dealer to determine if this applies to your vehicle.
1/19
Steering Wheel Off-Center
The steering wheel spokes are tilted to the left or right (see example in Figure 1) when
driving straight ahead on a straight flat road.
•
Although the vehicle does not pull in either direction, the customer may perceive that
the vehicle pulls because it will respond if he or she tries to bring the steering wheel
back to center. This condition can occur if the tie rod length is uneven from side to
side.
Steering wheel
center-line
Steering wheel
off-center
TP000117
Figure 1
•
When driving straight on a highly crowned road, the steering wheel may be turned
(off-center) to counteract the affect of the road crown. When road testing for an off-
center condition, the vehicle should be driven on a straight flat road.
2/19
NTB08-097b
SERVICE PROCEDURE
Repair Flow Chart
Complete Customer Questionnaire (page 4)
Check tire condition and air pressure;
correct as necessary.
Perform Road Test (page 5)
No
Does the vehicle pull
in the same direction?
Yes
No
Perform Procedure C:
Check/adjust wheel alignment
(page 11).
Perform Procedure B:
Identify and replace
pulling tire (page 9).
Is vehicle pull
completely corrected?
Make sure the
TPMS is
re- initialized
(if required).
End
Yes
No
Make sure the TPMS is re-
initialized (if required).
Perform Procedure A:
Determine if tire pull—
swap tires (page 7).
Is the vehicle pull
corrected?
Yes
Road Test results
Vehicle does not pull
and steering wheel
is not off center 3
mm or more.
Vehicle pulls Steering wheel is off-
center 3mm or more.
NOTE: If you have both
a pull and off-center
condition, repair the pull
first.
NOTE: Repair any pull
conditions first. Repair of
a pull condition may
resolve an off-center
condition.
Perform Procedure D:
Adjust/correct steering
wheel off-center
(page 14).
End
3/19 NTB08-097b
Customer Questionnaire
•
This questionnaire should be completed by the Service Manager or Service Advisor
during the customer interview.
•
Attach a completed copy to the Repair Order.
1 While driving straight, is the steering wheel straight? Yes No
If “NO”, is the steering wheel off center to the left or
the right?
Left Right
2 When driving straight on a flat smooth road, does the
vehicle drift or pull to the side (left or right)?
Yes No
If the answer to question 2 is Yes, complete the rest of the questionnaire.
3 Which direction does the vehicle drift or pull. If it is both
Left and Right, circle both.
Left Right
4 Does the vehicle pull all the time? Yes No
5 If the vehicle pulls on a particular road, describe the road
and/or location.
6 Does the vehicle pull during acceleration, deceleration, or
cruising?
Acceleration
and/or
Deceleration
Cruising
7 When driving with one or more passengers does the pull
go away or stay the same?
Goes away Stays the
same
8 Have the tires recently been rotated? Yes No
4/19
NTB08-097b
Road Test
(Determine if the vehicle has a pull, drift, or steering wheel off-center issue that requires
repair)
IMPORTANT:
•
If the vehicle has any tire issues, such as:
•
Tires that are different sizes (except when specified from the factory)
•
Significant difference in the amount of wear between any of the tires
•
Any other tire irregularity or damage to any tire
Replace the tire(s) or use known good tires from another vehicle for all road tests
and diagnostics in this bulletin.
•
Make sure tire pressure is set to the correct specification.
1. Take the vehicle for a road test and confirm the customers concern.
NOTE: If you adjusted the tire pressure or changed the tires before the road test, the
issue may have been resolved.
2. Install the following measuring tools on the vehicle:
•
Road Crown Gauge
•
Steering Wheel Offset Gauge
•
Holding Force Gauge; if the vehicle pulls
NOTE: See pages 15, 16, and 17 for a description of these tools and an explanation
of their use.
3. Take the vehicle for another road test; use the results / readings from the measuring
tools to answer the questions in Table 1 on the next page.
4. When the road test is completed, remove the Road Crown Gauge and the Holding
Force Gauge. Leave the Steering Wheel Off-set Gauge in place until the Service
Procedure is complete.
5/19 NTB08-097b
TABLE 1
1 Which direction is the road crown? Left Right
2 What is the average amount of road crown?
Enter the reading from the Road Crown Gauge. Round the
reading to the nearest whole number (0, 1, 2 , 3, ….). The
negative or positive symbol is not needed.
3 Is the steering wheel off-center? Yes No
4 Which direction is the steering wheel off-center? Left Right
5 How much is the steering wheel off-center?
Enter the reading from the Steering Wheel Offset Gauge. Round
the reading to the nearest whole number (0, 1 , 2 , 3, ….). If the
reading is 9 mm or more, enter 9.
6 Does the vehicle pull? Yes No
7 Which direction does the vehicle pull? Left Right
8 How many weights on the steering wheel did you use?
Enter the number or weights you used to get the vehicle to go
straight (bracket counts as one weight). Enter 0 if the vehicle
does not pull.
6/19 NTB08-097b
Procedure A
(Determine if a pull condition is caused by a tire).
NOTE: Always torque wheel lug nuts using a torque wrench to the specified torque.
Refer to the appropriate Service Manual for torque specifications.
1. Swap the front tires side to side (Left to Right and Right to Left).
2. Swap the rear tires side to side (Left to Right and Right to Left).
For vehicles with “directional” tires (tires designed to rotate in only one direction):
•
Swap all four tires from a known good vehicle (known good tires).
•
Make sure to mark the tires to indicate their original side of the vehicle (left or
right).
3. Make sure the tire pressure is set to the correct specification.
4. Road test the vehicle.
•
If the TPMS warning light comes ON, ignore it for now.
For vehicles with “directional” tires (tires designed to rotate in only one direction):
•
If the pull goes away or is reduced, perform Procedure B on page 9 to determine
which tire is causing the pull.
5. Refer back to the Repair Flow Chart on page 3 for the next step.
To claim diagnostic Procedure A (OP-CODE PX35AA), complete Diagnostic
Worksheet A on the next page.
7/19
NTB08-097b
To claim diagnostic Procedure A (OP-CODE PX35AA), use the information from Table
1 on page 6 to complete Diagnostic Worksheet A.
Diagnostic Worksheet A Example
Repair code. A A
Direction of Road Crown (enter L or R). R
Average Road Crown. 3
Direction of Pull (enter L or R). L
How many weights did you use? 3
Enter the DOT number from either of the front
tires on the incident vehicle.
ABCD23456789
(The number of
characters may
vary)
The letters and numbers from the worksheet create a code that will be entered at the
beginning of the first line of the Technician Comments in the Warranty Claim.
Code example: AR3L3ABCD23456789
•
Figures A and B below are examples of DOT numbers. The DOT number is all of
the characters (letters and numbers) following DOT.
•
The number of characters in a DOT number can vary between tire manufactures.
Example of DOT number
DOT # - 11 characters
Figure A
Example of DOT number
DOT # - 12 characters
Figure B
8/19
NTB08-097b
Procedure B
(Determine which tire is causing the pull.)
NOTE:
•
Procedure B is done only if there is a tire pull issue.
•
The steps in Procedure B should identify which tire is causing the pull.
•
Make sure the tire pressure is set to the correct specification.
•
Always torque wheel lug nuts using a torque wrench to the specified torque (refer to
the appropriate Service Manual for torque specifications).
•
If the TPMS warning light comes ON, ignore it for now.
1a. For vehicles equipped from the factory with tires that are different sizes between the
front and rear, or vehicles with “directional” tires:
A. Put all of the tires/wheels back to original positions. The vehicle should now pull the
same as it did on your first road test.
B. Install / swap only one tire with known good, and road test.
C. Repeat step B for each tire until the pull goes away or is reduced.
D. Replace the tire that reduced or eliminated the pull.
NOTE: Make sure directional tires are reinstalled on the same side of the vehicle
from which they were removed.
1b. For all other vehicles:
a.
Rotate tires 2 and 4 on the passenger
side (see Figure 2) and road test.
•
Pull goes away or is reduced;
replace tire 2 (which is now on the
rear).
•
Pull gets worse; replace tire 4
(which is now on the front).
•
No change; put tires 2 and 4 back to
their original positions.
b. Rotate tires 1 and 3 on the driver side
(see Figure 2) and road test.
•
Pull goes away or is reduced;
replace tire 1 (which is now on the
rear). Figure 2
•
Pull gets worse; replace tire 3
(which is now on the front).
•
No change; put tires 1 and 3 back to
their original positions.
Front
Front
9/19
NTB08-097b
NOTE: When replacing a tire, if there is significant tread wear it is good practice to
replace tires in sets (both front, both rear, or all 4).
2. Procedure B should have been done only if there is a tire pull issue:
•
If an incident tire was identified and replaced, go to step 3.
•
If an incident tire was not identified, diagnostics were not done correctly. Go back
to the Flow Chart on page 3 and start over.
3. After replacing a tire, road test the vehicle. You may have completely corrected the pull
or you may have only reduced the pull. Return to the Repair Flow Chart on page 3 for
the next step.
To claim diagnostic Procedure B (OP-CODE PX36AA, PX37AA, PX38AA, PX39AA, or
PX40AA), use the information from Table 1 on page 6 to complete Diagnostic
Worksheet B.
Diagnostic Worksheet B
Example
Repair code. B B
Direction of Road Crown (enter L or R). R
Average Road Crown. 3
Direction of Pull (enter L or R). L
How many weights did you use? 3
Enter the DOT number from the tire that
was replaced.
ABCD23456789
(The number of characters
may vary)
The letters and numbers from the worksheet create a code that must be entered at the
beginning of the first line of the Technician Comments in the Warranty Claim.
Code example: BR3L3ABCD23456789
10/19
NTB08-097b
Procedure C
1. Check the vehicles four-wheel alignment using accurate and properly calibrated
computerized alignment equipment.
a.
Attach to the work order a copy of the alignment machine calibration record showing
the date the alignment machine was last serviced and calibrated.
b. Record the following measurements:
•
Front Caster: Left ______Right ______ Rear Caster: Left ______Right ______
•
Front Camber: Left ______Right ______ Rear Camber: Left ______Right ______
•
Front Total Toe-in_________
•
Thrust Angle________
Reference the appropriate Service Manual for alignment specification.
2. If any of the alignment measurements are out of specification, inspect the suspension
and chassis for any damage. Repair the damaged components before continuing.
3. Adjust any front and/or rear adjustable alignment components that are out of
specification.
•
Reference the appropriate Service Manual for information regarding the proper steps
to adjust the alignment.
NOTE: Relationship of alignment settings to vehicle pull:
Camber:
The camber thrust direction will be to the side with the “most positive” camber setting.
Example: If the left camber is significantly higher (more positive) than the right, the vehicle
will tend to drift or pull to the left.
Caster:
The caster thrust direction will be to the side with “most negative” caster setting.
Example: If the left caster is significantly higher (more positive) than the right, the vehicle
will tend to drift or pull to the right.
Thrust Angle:
The Thrust Angle should be close to 0. Out of spec thrust angle is caused by rear wheel or
axle misalignment and causes the steering to pull or lead to one side or the other.
Excessive thrust angle may cause the steering wheel to be off-center.
11/19
NTB08-097b
NOTE:
There are no provision provided for adjusting caster and camber on many Nissan models,
but some adjustment may be achieved by the following methods:
Strut Suspension Camber Adjustment
a.
Raise the vehicle and remove the front tires.
b. Loosen the upper steering knuckle bolts and nuts.
c.
Adjust the camber by moving the steering knuckle within the range of the free play of
the bolts.
d. Tighten the bolts to the specified torque.
e.
Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front and rear of the
vehicle several times to stabilize the suspension.
Strut Suspension Camber & Caster Adjustment
a.
Raise the vehicle and remove the front wheels.
b. Loosen the upper strut mount bolts.
c.
Adjust camber and caster by moving the upper strut mount within the range of the
free play of the bolts.
d. Tighten the bolts to the specified torque.
e.
Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front and rear of the
vehicle several times to stabilize the suspension.
12/19
NTB08-097b
To claim diagnostic Procedure C (OP-CODE WD44A or WD49A), use the information
from Table 1 on page 6 and the alignment measurements you wrote down in step 1 on
page 11 to complete Diagnostic Worksheet C.
Diagnostic Worksheet C Example
Repair code. C C
Direction of Road Crown (enter L or R). R
Average Road Crown. 3
Direction of Pull (enter L or R). L
How many weights did you use. 3
Left camber (positive “P” or negative “N”) P
Left camber measurement in degrees. Example;
reading = 0.53 degrees enter 053
053
Right camber (positive “P” or negative “N”) N
Right camber measurement in degrees. Example;
reading = 0.53 degrees enter 053
053
Left caster measurement in degrees. Example;
reading =2.84 degrees enter 284
284
Right caster measurement in degrees. Example;
reading =2.84 degrees enter 284
284
Thrust Angle (enter the decimal reading) Example;
0.06, enter 06
06
The letters and numbers from the worksheet create a code that must be entered at the
beginning of the first line of the Technician Comments in the Warranty Claim.
Code example: CR3L3P053N05328428406
13/19 NTB08-097b
Procedure D
(Adjust/correct steering wheel off-center)
1. Is the steering wheel 3 mm or more off-center?
•
Yes; proceed to step 2.
•
No; you are finished.
2. Use an alignment rack to measure and adjust front wheel toe with steering wheel
straight.
3. Road test to confirm the steering wheel is straight (not off-center 3 mm or more).
4. Remove the steering wheel off-set gauge.
To claim diagnostic procedure D (OP-CODE WD34A), use the information from Table 1
on page 6 to complete Diagnostic Worksheet D.
Diagnostic Worksheet D
Example
Repair code. D D
Direction of Road Crown (enter L or R). R
Average Road Crown. 3
Which direction is the steering wheel off-center
(enter L or R)
L
How many mm is the steering wheel off center 5
The letters and numbers from the worksheet create a code that must be entered at the
beginning of the first line of the Technician Comments in the Warranty Claim.
Code example: DR3L5.
14/19 NTB08-097b
SPECIAL TOOLS
Additional special tools can be ordered from TECH-MATE at 1-800-662-2001.
The Drift and Pull Gauge (J-49286) contains the following individual tools:
Holding Force Gauge (Weights & Bracket Assembly) – Tool # J-49286-1
The Holding Force Gauge consists of:
•
A bracket that mounts to the
steering wheel, and
•
Five removable weights.
This gauge measures the amount of pull
on the vehicle.
NOTE: For measuring purpose, the
bracket counts as one weight.
Figure 3
Tool Use
Attach the bracket and the weights to the
steering wheel on the side opposite the
pull direction.
For example, if the vehicle pulls to the
right, attach the bracket and weights to
the left side of the steering wheel (see
Figure 4).
For the road test, start with all the weights
removed. Add weights one at a time until
the vehicle drives in a straight line.
Figure 4
NOTE: When recording the road test results, write down the direction of the pull and the
number of weights (1 to 6) used to counteract the pull. Remember, the bracket counts
as one weight.
15/19
NTB08-097b
Road Crown Gauge – Tool # J-49286-2
The Road Crown Gauge measures the
amount of road crown in degrees.
The suction cup is used to attach the Road
Crown Gauge to a secure spot on the vehicle
dash.
Tool Use
Before the road test, calibrate the gauge:
NOTE: The gauge must be calibrated with
the same weight in the vehicle as there will
be during the road test. For example, if you
plan to have an assistant in the vehicle
during the road test, calibrate the gauge
while both of you are sitting in the vehicle.
There are two ways to calibrate the gauge:
•
Preferred method: Park the vehicle on
a level surface, such as an alignment
rack and calibrate the gauge by moving
the gauge until the ball is on the zero
mark.
•
If you do not have a perfectly flat level surface:
a.
Park the vehicle on a reasonable flat level surface and note the gauge reading.
b. Turn the vehicle 180 degrees so the vehicle is in the same spot but facing the
opposite direction and note the gauge reading.
c.
Move / calibrate the gauge so it reads half the difference between the two
readings.
For example; if the first reading is -1 and the second reading (after moving the
vehicle) is +3, half way between the two is +1.
Figure 5
Figure 6
-6 -4 -2 0° 2 4 6
1st reading -1 2nd reading +3
Calibrate gauge to +1
16/19
NTB08-097b
Steering Wheel Offset Gauge (Stickers) – Tool # J-49286-3
The Steering Wheel Offset Gauge is a set
of one-time use stickers that are attached
to the steering wheel and the steering
column cover.
Tool Use
Turn / adjust the steering wheel to the
straight position (spokes of steering wheel
are straight across).
Attach the sticker with numbers on the
steering column cover.
Attach the arrow sticker on the steering
wheel. Make sure the arrow lines up with
the 0 (zero) mark.
When you road test the vehicle you can
read how many millimeters the steering
wheel is off–center.
Figure 7
Figure 8
NOTE: Repairing a vehicle pull may correct a steering wheel offset condition.
17/19 NTB08-097b
CLAIMS INFORMATION
NOTE: When submitting Warranty Claims for Procedures A through D, a diagnostic
procedure code must be entered at the beginning of the first line of the Technician
Comments. See Diagnostic Worksheets on pages 8, 10, 13, and 14.
Submit a Primary Operation (PO) line claim using the following claims coding:
IF REQUIRED:
DESCRIPTION OP CODE SYM DIA FRT
Procedure A: Swap front and rear
tires (side to side) and re-initialize
TPMS
PX35AA CA 44 0.5 hrs
IF REQUIRED:
DESCRIPTION OP CODE SYM DIA FRT
Procedure B: Swap tires per
procedure B, perform up to two test
drives, and re-initialize TPMS.
PX36AA CA 02 0.9 hrs
OR
For vehicles with different size tires or directional tires.
DESCRIPTION OP CODE SYM DIA FRT
Procedure B: Swap tires per procedure B,
perform test drive and re-initialize TPMS.
If 1 tire is swapped use PX37AA CA 02 0.4 hrs
If 2 tires are swapped use PX38AA CA 02 0.8 hrs
If 3 tires are swapped use PX39AA CA 02 1.1 hrs
If 4 tires are swapped use PX40AA CA 02 1.5 hrs
IF REQUIRED: If Procedure C is claimed, you cannot claim Procedure D.
DESCRIPTION OP CODE SYM DIA FRT
Procedure C: Adjust wheel alignment (2) CA 44 (1)
(1) Reference the current Nissan Warranty Flat Rate Manual and use the indicated FRT.
(2) Reference the WD-Chassis Adjustment section in the current Nissan Warranty Flat Rate
Manual, use the OP-CODE that matches the vehicle and operation performed.
Continued on the next page
18/19 NTB08-097b
IF REQUIRED: If Procedure D is claimed, you cannot claim Procedure C.
DESCRIPTION OP CODE SYM DIA FRT
Procedure D: Adjust steering wheel
off center.
WD34AA EC 41 (1)
(1) Reference the current Nissan Warranty Flat Rate Manual and use the indicated FRT.
IF REQUIRED:
For tire replacement claims information, reference the current Nissan Warranty Flat Rate
Manual.
19/19 NTB08-097b
Classification: Reference: Date:
ST08-001b NTB08-097b August 26, 2009
Classification: Reference: Date:
ST08-001b NTB08-097b August 26, 2009
ALIGNMENT AND ROAD CROWN
This bulletin has been amended. The “Date” has been changed so the Applied Vehicles include the
latest Models. No other changes have been made. Please discard previous versions of this bulletin.
APPLIED VEHICLES: All Nissan - except GT-R
SERVICE INFORMATION
Customers may report that their vehicle “pulls” or the steering wheel is “off-center”. This
bulletin discusses these subjects and provides diagnostic and repair information.
If a vehicle drifts to one side of the road, it may be the normal result of road crown. Most
roads in the United States are built with a “crown” to help rain water drain from the road
surface. The slope of the road crown varies from place to place. In most cases the crown
slopes 2 to 3 degrees to the right.
Vehicles have a natural tendency to drift to the low side of the crown. The greater the slope
of the crown, the faster the vehicle will drift in that direction.
Tires and vehicles are designed to counteract the effect of typical road crown, but may not
fully counteract the effect of a highly crowned road.
Some freeways slope to both the left and right from the center. When driving on a freeway
that slops in both directions, a vehicle may exhibit a small amount of drift to the left when
driving in the left lane and a small amount of drift to the right when driving in the right lane.
This bulletin does not address road crown issues because they are not vehicle
related, although the customer may incorrectly perceive them to be. Use the information
provided in this bulletin to identify and repair other types of "vehicle pull".
Incident Description:
Pull
The vehicle consistently drifts to one side while driving at a constant speed on a straight,
flat road.
•
A vehicle is said to “pull” if it completes a lane change in less than 7 seconds (with
no steering correction from the driver) when driving at 60 MPH on a road with less
than 2 degrees road crown slope. All four wheels must pass into the other lane
during this time (7 seconds).
Nissan Bulletins are intended for use by qualified technicians, not 'do-it-yourselfers'. Qualified technicians are
properly trained individuals who have the equipment, tools, safety instruction, and know-how to do a job
properly and safely. NOTE: If you believe that a described condition may apply to a particular vehicle, DO
NOT assume that it does. See your Nissan dealer to determine if this applies to your vehicle.
1/19
Steering Wheel Off-Center
The steering wheel spokes are tilted to the left or right (see example in Figure 1) when
driving straight ahead on a straight flat road.
•
Although the vehicle does not pull in either direction, the customer may perceive that
the vehicle pulls because it will respond if he or she tries to bring the steering wheel
back to center. This condition can occur if the tie rod length is uneven from side to
side.
Steering wheel
center-line
Steering wheel
off-center
TP000117
Figure 1
•
When driving straight on a highly crowned road, the steering wheel may be turned
(off-center) to counteract the affect of the road crown. When road testing for an off-
center condition, the vehicle should be driven on a straight flat road.
2/19
NTB08-097b
SERVICE PROCEDURE
Repair Flow Chart
Complete Customer Questionnaire (page 4)
Check tire condition and air pressure;
correct as necessary.
Perform Road Test (page 5)
No
Does the vehicle pull
in the same direction?
Yes
No
Perform Procedure C:
Check/adjust wheel alignment
(page 11).
Perform Procedure B:
Identify and replace
pulling tire (page 9).
Is vehicle pull
completely corrected?
Make sure the
TPMS is
re- initialized
(if required).
End
Yes
No
Make sure the TPMS is re-
initialized (if required).
Perform Procedure A:
Determine if tire pull—
swap tires (page 7).
Is the vehicle pull
corrected?
Yes
Road Test results
Vehicle does not pull
and steering wheel
is not off center 3
mm or more.
Vehicle pulls Steering wheel is off-
center 3mm or more.
NOTE: If you have both
a pull and off-center
condition, repair the pull
first.
NOTE: Repair any pull
conditions first. Repair of
a pull condition may
resolve an off-center
condition.
Perform Procedure D:
Adjust/correct steering
wheel off-center
(page 14).
End
3/19 NTB08-097b
Customer Questionnaire
•
This questionnaire should be completed by the Service Manager or Service Advisor
during the customer interview.
•
Attach a completed copy to the Repair Order.
1 While driving straight, is the steering wheel straight? Yes No
If “NO”, is the steering wheel off center to the left or
the right?
Left Right
2 When driving straight on a flat smooth road, does the
vehicle drift or pull to the side (left or right)?
Yes No
If the answer to question 2 is Yes, complete the rest of the questionnaire.
3 Which direction does the vehicle drift or pull. If it is both
Left and Right, circle both.
Left Right
4 Does the vehicle pull all the time? Yes No
5 If the vehicle pulls on a particular road, describe the road
and/or location.
6 Does the vehicle pull during acceleration, deceleration, or
cruising?
Acceleration
and/or
Deceleration
Cruising
7 When driving with one or more passengers does the pull
go away or stay the same?
Goes away Stays the
same
8 Have the tires recently been rotated? Yes No
4/19
NTB08-097b
Road Test
(Determine if the vehicle has a pull, drift, or steering wheel off-center issue that requires
repair)
IMPORTANT:
•
If the vehicle has any tire issues, such as:
•
Tires that are different sizes (except when specified from the factory)
•
Significant difference in the amount of wear between any of the tires
•
Any other tire irregularity or damage to any tire
Replace the tire(s) or use known good tires from another vehicle for all road tests
and diagnostics in this bulletin.
•
Make sure tire pressure is set to the correct specification.
1. Take the vehicle for a road test and confirm the customers concern.
NOTE: If you adjusted the tire pressure or changed the tires before the road test, the
issue may have been resolved.
2. Install the following measuring tools on the vehicle:
•
Road Crown Gauge
•
Steering Wheel Offset Gauge
•
Holding Force Gauge; if the vehicle pulls
NOTE: See pages 15, 16, and 17 for a description of these tools and an explanation
of their use.
3. Take the vehicle for another road test; use the results / readings from the measuring
tools to answer the questions in Table 1 on the next page.
4. When the road test is completed, remove the Road Crown Gauge and the Holding
Force Gauge. Leave the Steering Wheel Off-set Gauge in place until the Service
Procedure is complete.
5/19 NTB08-097b
TABLE 1
1 Which direction is the road crown? Left Right
2 What is the average amount of road crown?
Enter the reading from the Road Crown Gauge. Round the
reading to the nearest whole number (0, 1, 2 , 3, ….). The
negative or positive symbol is not needed.
3 Is the steering wheel off-center? Yes No
4 Which direction is the steering wheel off-center? Left Right
5 How much is the steering wheel off-center?
Enter the reading from the Steering Wheel Offset Gauge. Round
the reading to the nearest whole number (0, 1 , 2 , 3, ….). If the
reading is 9 mm or more, enter 9.
6 Does the vehicle pull? Yes No
7 Which direction does the vehicle pull? Left Right
8 How many weights on the steering wheel did you use?
Enter the number or weights you used to get the vehicle to go
straight (bracket counts as one weight). Enter 0 if the vehicle
does not pull.
6/19 NTB08-097b
Procedure A
(Determine if a pull condition is caused by a tire).
NOTE: Always torque wheel lug nuts using a torque wrench to the specified torque.
Refer to the appropriate Service Manual for torque specifications.
1. Swap the front tires side to side (Left to Right and Right to Left).
2. Swap the rear tires side to side (Left to Right and Right to Left).
For vehicles with “directional” tires (tires designed to rotate in only one direction):
•
Swap all four tires from a known good vehicle (known good tires).
•
Make sure to mark the tires to indicate their original side of the vehicle (left or
right).
3. Make sure the tire pressure is set to the correct specification.
4. Road test the vehicle.
•
If the TPMS warning light comes ON, ignore it for now.
For vehicles with “directional” tires (tires designed to rotate in only one direction):
•
If the pull goes away or is reduced, perform Procedure B on page 9 to determine
which tire is causing the pull.
5. Refer back to the Repair Flow Chart on page 3 for the next step.
To claim diagnostic Procedure A (OP-CODE PX35AA), complete Diagnostic
Worksheet A on the next page.
7/19
NTB08-097b
To claim diagnostic Procedure A (OP-CODE PX35AA), use the information from Table
1 on page 6 to complete Diagnostic Worksheet A.
Diagnostic Worksheet A Example
Repair code. A A
Direction of Road Crown (enter L or R). R
Average Road Crown. 3
Direction of Pull (enter L or R). L
How many weights did you use? 3
Enter the DOT number from either of the front
tires on the incident vehicle.
ABCD23456789
(The number of
characters may
vary)
The letters and numbers from the worksheet create a code that will be entered at the
beginning of the first line of the Technician Comments in the Warranty Claim.
Code example: AR3L3ABCD23456789
•
Figures A and B below are examples of DOT numbers. The DOT number is all of
the characters (letters and numbers) following DOT.
•
The number of characters in a DOT number can vary between tire manufactures.
Example of DOT number
DOT # - 11 characters
Figure A
Example of DOT number
DOT # - 12 characters
Figure B
8/19
NTB08-097b
Procedure B
(Determine which tire is causing the pull.)
NOTE:
•
Procedure B is done only if there is a tire pull issue.
•
The steps in Procedure B should identify which tire is causing the pull.
•
Make sure the tire pressure is set to the correct specification.
•
Always torque wheel lug nuts using a torque wrench to the specified torque (refer to
the appropriate Service Manual for torque specifications).
•
If the TPMS warning light comes ON, ignore it for now.
1a. For vehicles equipped from the factory with tires that are different sizes between the
front and rear, or vehicles with “directional” tires:
A. Put all of the tires/wheels back to original positions. The vehicle should now pull the
same as it did on your first road test.
B. Install / swap only one tire with known good, and road test.
C. Repeat step B for each tire until the pull goes away or is reduced.
D. Replace the tire that reduced or eliminated the pull.
NOTE: Make sure directional tires are reinstalled on the same side of the vehicle
from which they were removed.
1b. For all other vehicles:
a.
Rotate tires 2 and 4 on the passenger
side (see Figure 2) and road test.
•
Pull goes away or is reduced;
replace tire 2 (which is now on the
rear).
•
Pull gets worse; replace tire 4
(which is now on the front).
•
No change; put tires 2 and 4 back to
their original positions.
b. Rotate tires 1 and 3 on the driver side
(see Figure 2) and road test.
•
Pull goes away or is reduced;
replace tire 1 (which is now on the
rear). Figure 2
•
Pull gets worse; replace tire 3
(which is now on the front).
•
No change; put tires 1 and 3 back to
their original positions.
Front
Front
9/19
NTB08-097b
NOTE: When replacing a tire, if there is significant tread wear it is good practice to
replace tires in sets (both front, both rear, or all 4).
2. Procedure B should have been done only if there is a tire pull issue:
•
If an incident tire was identified and replaced, go to step 3.
•
If an incident tire was not identified, diagnostics were not done correctly. Go back
to the Flow Chart on page 3 and start over.
3. After replacing a tire, road test the vehicle. You may have completely corrected the pull
or you may have only reduced the pull. Return to the Repair Flow Chart on page 3 for
the next step.
To claim diagnostic Procedure B (OP-CODE PX36AA, PX37AA, PX38AA, PX39AA, or
PX40AA), use the information from Table 1 on page 6 to complete Diagnostic
Worksheet B.
Diagnostic Worksheet B
Example
Repair code. B B
Direction of Road Crown (enter L or R). R
Average Road Crown. 3
Direction of Pull (enter L or R). L
How many weights did you use? 3
Enter the DOT number from the tire that
was replaced.
ABCD23456789
(The number of characters
may vary)
The letters and numbers from the worksheet create a code that must be entered at the
beginning of the first line of the Technician Comments in the Warranty Claim.
Code example: BR3L3ABCD23456789
10/19
NTB08-097b
Procedure C
1. Check the vehicles four-wheel alignment using accurate and properly calibrated
computerized alignment equipment.
a.
Attach to the work order a copy of the alignment machine calibration record showing
the date the alignment machine was last serviced and calibrated.
b. Record the following measurements:
•
Front Caster: Left ______Right ______ Rear Caster: Left ______Right ______
•
Front Camber: Left ______Right ______ Rear Camber: Left ______Right ______
•
Front Total Toe-in_________
•
Thrust Angle________
Reference the appropriate Service Manual for alignment specification.
2. If any of the alignment measurements are out of specification, inspect the suspension
and chassis for any damage. Repair the damaged components before continuing.
3. Adjust any front and/or rear adjustable alignment components that are out of
specification.
•
Reference the appropriate Service Manual for information regarding the proper steps
to adjust the alignment.
NOTE: Relationship of alignment settings to vehicle pull:
Camber:
The camber thrust direction will be to the side with the “most positive” camber setting.
Example: If the left camber is significantly higher (more positive) than the right, the vehicle
will tend to drift or pull to the left.
Caster:
The caster thrust direction will be to the side with “most negative” caster setting.
Example: If the left caster is significantly higher (more positive) than the right, the vehicle
will tend to drift or pull to the right.
Thrust Angle:
The Thrust Angle should be close to 0. Out of spec thrust angle is caused by rear wheel or
axle misalignment and causes the steering to pull or lead to one side or the other.
Excessive thrust angle may cause the steering wheel to be off-center.
11/19
NTB08-097b
NOTE:
There are no provision provided for adjusting caster and camber on many Nissan models,
but some adjustment may be achieved by the following methods:
Strut Suspension Camber Adjustment
a.
Raise the vehicle and remove the front tires.
b. Loosen the upper steering knuckle bolts and nuts.
c.
Adjust the camber by moving the steering knuckle within the range of the free play of
the bolts.
d. Tighten the bolts to the specified torque.
e.
Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front and rear of the
vehicle several times to stabilize the suspension.
Strut Suspension Camber & Caster Adjustment
a.
Raise the vehicle and remove the front wheels.
b. Loosen the upper strut mount bolts.
c.
Adjust camber and caster by moving the upper strut mount within the range of the
free play of the bolts.
d. Tighten the bolts to the specified torque.
e.
Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front and rear of the
vehicle several times to stabilize the suspension.
12/19
NTB08-097b
To claim diagnostic Procedure C (OP-CODE WD44A or WD49A), use the information
from Table 1 on page 6 and the alignment measurements you wrote down in step 1 on
page 11 to complete Diagnostic Worksheet C.
Diagnostic Worksheet C Example
Repair code. C C
Direction of Road Crown (enter L or R). R
Average Road Crown. 3
Direction of Pull (enter L or R). L
How many weights did you use. 3
Left camber (positive “P” or negative “N”) P
Left camber measurement in degrees. Example;
reading = 0.53 degrees enter 053
053
Right camber (positive “P” or negative “N”) N
Right camber measurement in degrees. Example;
reading = 0.53 degrees enter 053
053
Left caster measurement in degrees. Example;
reading =2.84 degrees enter 284
284
Right caster measurement in degrees. Example;
reading =2.84 degrees enter 284
284
Thrust Angle (enter the decimal reading) Example;
0.06, enter 06
06
The letters and numbers from the worksheet create a code that must be entered at the
beginning of the first line of the Technician Comments in the Warranty Claim.
Code example: CR3L3P053N05328428406
13/19 NTB08-097b
Procedure D
(Adjust/correct steering wheel off-center)
1. Is the steering wheel 3 mm or more off-center?
•
Yes; proceed to step 2.
•
No; you are finished.
2. Use an alignment rack to measure and adjust front wheel toe with steering wheel
straight.
3. Road test to confirm the steering wheel is straight (not off-center 3 mm or more).
4. Remove the steering wheel off-set gauge.
To claim diagnostic procedure D (OP-CODE WD34A), use the information from Table 1
on page 6 to complete Diagnostic Worksheet D.
Diagnostic Worksheet D
Example
Repair code. D D
Direction of Road Crown (enter L or R). R
Average Road Crown. 3
Which direction is the steering wheel off-center
(enter L or R)
L
How many mm is the steering wheel off center 5
The letters and numbers from the worksheet create a code that must be entered at the
beginning of the first line of the Technician Comments in the Warranty Claim.
Code example: DR3L5.
14/19 NTB08-097b
SPECIAL TOOLS
Additional special tools can be ordered from TECH-MATE at 1-800-662-2001.
The Drift and Pull Gauge (J-49286) contains the following individual tools:
Holding Force Gauge (Weights & Bracket Assembly) – Tool # J-49286-1
The Holding Force Gauge consists of:
•
A bracket that mounts to the
steering wheel, and
•
Five removable weights.
This gauge measures the amount of pull
on the vehicle.
NOTE: For measuring purpose, the
bracket counts as one weight.
Figure 3
Tool Use
Attach the bracket and the weights to the
steering wheel on the side opposite the
pull direction.
For example, if the vehicle pulls to the
right, attach the bracket and weights to
the left side of the steering wheel (see
Figure 4).
For the road test, start with all the weights
removed. Add weights one at a time until
the vehicle drives in a straight line.
Figure 4
NOTE: When recording the road test results, write down the direction of the pull and the
number of weights (1 to 6) used to counteract the pull. Remember, the bracket counts
as one weight.
15/19
NTB08-097b
Road Crown Gauge – Tool # J-49286-2
The Road Crown Gauge measures the
amount of road crown in degrees.
The suction cup is used to attach the Road
Crown Gauge to a secure spot on the vehicle
dash.
Tool Use
Before the road test, calibrate the gauge:
NOTE: The gauge must be calibrated with
the same weight in the vehicle as there will
be during the road test. For example, if you
plan to have an assistant in the vehicle
during the road test, calibrate the gauge
while both of you are sitting in the vehicle.
There are two ways to calibrate the gauge:
•
Preferred method: Park the vehicle on
a level surface, such as an alignment
rack and calibrate the gauge by moving
the gauge until the ball is on the zero
mark.
•
If you do not have a perfectly flat level surface:
a.
Park the vehicle on a reasonable flat level surface and note the gauge reading.
b. Turn the vehicle 180 degrees so the vehicle is in the same spot but facing the
opposite direction and note the gauge reading.
c.
Move / calibrate the gauge so it reads half the difference between the two
readings.
For example; if the first reading is -1 and the second reading (after moving the
vehicle) is +3, half way between the two is +1.
Figure 5
Figure 6
-6 -4 -2 0° 2 4 6
1st reading -1 2nd reading +3
Calibrate gauge to +1
16/19
NTB08-097b
Steering Wheel Offset Gauge (Stickers) – Tool # J-49286-3
The Steering Wheel Offset Gauge is a set
of one-time use stickers that are attached
to the steering wheel and the steering
column cover.
Tool Use
Turn / adjust the steering wheel to the
straight position (spokes of steering wheel
are straight across).
Attach the sticker with numbers on the
steering column cover.
Attach the arrow sticker on the steering
wheel. Make sure the arrow lines up with
the 0 (zero) mark.
When you road test the vehicle you can
read how many millimeters the steering
wheel is off–center.
Figure 7
Figure 8
NOTE: Repairing a vehicle pull may correct a steering wheel offset condition.
17/19 NTB08-097b
CLAIMS INFORMATION
NOTE: When submitting Warranty Claims for Procedures A through D, a diagnostic
procedure code must be entered at the beginning of the first line of the Technician
Comments. See Diagnostic Worksheets on pages 8, 10, 13, and 14.
Submit a Primary Operation (PO) line claim using the following claims coding:
IF REQUIRED:
DESCRIPTION OP CODE SYM DIA FRT
Procedure A: Swap front and rear
tires (side to side) and re-initialize
TPMS
PX35AA CA 44 0.5 hrs
IF REQUIRED:
DESCRIPTION OP CODE SYM DIA FRT
Procedure B: Swap tires per
procedure B, perform up to two test
drives, and re-initialize TPMS.
PX36AA CA 02 0.9 hrs
OR
For vehicles with different size tires or directional tires.
DESCRIPTION OP CODE SYM DIA FRT
Procedure B: Swap tires per procedure B,
perform test drive and re-initialize TPMS.
If 1 tire is swapped use PX37AA CA 02 0.4 hrs
If 2 tires are swapped use PX38AA CA 02 0.8 hrs
If 3 tires are swapped use PX39AA CA 02 1.1 hrs
If 4 tires are swapped use PX40AA CA 02 1.5 hrs
IF REQUIRED: If Procedure C is claimed, you cannot claim Procedure D.
DESCRIPTION OP CODE SYM DIA FRT
Procedure C: Adjust wheel alignment (2) CA 44 (1)
(1) Reference the current Nissan Warranty Flat Rate Manual and use the indicated FRT.
(2) Reference the WD-Chassis Adjustment section in the current Nissan Warranty Flat Rate
Manual, use the OP-CODE that matches the vehicle and operation performed.
Continued on the next page
18/19 NTB08-097b
IF REQUIRED: If Procedure D is claimed, you cannot claim Procedure C.
DESCRIPTION OP CODE SYM DIA FRT
Procedure D: Adjust steering wheel
off center.
WD34AA EC 41 (1)
(1) Reference the current Nissan Warranty Flat Rate Manual and use the indicated FRT.
IF REQUIRED:
For tire replacement claims information, reference the current Nissan Warranty Flat Rate
Manual.
19/19 NTB08-097b
10-05-2010, 04:19 AM
#68
Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 234
10-05-2010, 12:21 PM
#69
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 738
Well I went to nissan help, but could not get access to this service bulletin. I logged in as a guest but it was still locked. Does anyone have a paying account with nissan help that can post the full bulletin for this issue. Also, it looks like this bulletin is from 2009 and is a generic bulletin for all vehicles, is this really a new issue? or has nissan know about it the whole time?
Still having the pull to the right. VERY ANNOYING!
2009 Maxima 2009 Nissan Maxima Service Bulletins
New entries announced in forum Latest Uploads
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Entries NTB08-097b -REVISED-
ALL NISSAN MODELS; ALIGNMENT AND ROAD CROWN
Customers may report that their vehicle “pulls” or the steering wheel is “off-center”. This bulletin discusses these subjects and provides diagnostic and repair information.
Still having the pull to the right. VERY ANNOYING!
2009 Maxima 2009 Nissan Maxima Service Bulletins
New entries announced in forum Latest Uploads
Allowances: 0 files/0 used
Entries
NTB08-097b -REVISED-ALL NISSAN MODELS; ALIGNMENT AND ROAD CROWN
Customers may report that their vehicle “pulls” or the steering wheel is “off-center”. This bulletin discusses these subjects and provides diagnostic and repair information.
10-05-2010, 01:44 PM
#70
Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 105
You don't have to be a paying member to get access to the TSBs and Recalls. As a guest, you have access to TWO DOWNLOADS a day (within a 24hr period) for free. I did this for a few days until I was able to print out all the TSBs and recalls I needed. It took a while but you don't have to pay a membership on nissanhelp to get those TSBs and recalls.
10-05-2010, 03:32 PM
#71
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 738
10-10-2010, 07:44 PM
#73
I have a 6 year old Maxima SE in mint condition that is lowered on Eibach Prokit 1s and KYB GR2s with Eurorotor Rotors: Over-sized, vented, cross-drilled, Cadmium plated and Hawk Ceramic brake pads. My car has a lot of engine and suspension mods. I must admit most of my driving problems stemmed IMHO from the Wheels and Tires! I went with 18" 8.5" Rims Konig Again 5 with Riken Raptor 18/45/245 all around (like stock except the wider Rims. Rikens are Z rated tires and are excellent in Rain or Dry. Grip like crazy. I no longer have to constantly balance the tires and get away with only 1 alignment per season in the early spring. Rikens BTW are Michelins. I never had an issue with the car pulling and she is straight as an arrow at all speeds. I live in Montreal where the roads are really crappy and I often take the car on the highway as I live outside of the city in the "West Island". I love driving this car and will be sad to see it go. It is now six years old! In the spring I'm thinking of getting either a new G37 AWD S Coupe or a Mercedes E350 AWD Coupe (Used 1 year old...let someone else pay for the depreciation LOL!).
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Last edited by xorbitman; 10-10-2010 at 07:50 PM.
10-18-2010, 06:40 AM
#74
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 3
I just test drove 3 2010 s Maximas and really want 1 .I told the dealer i am ready to sign as soon as this issue is resolved..thanks to rtitan i went ahead and printed the full NTSB for the dealer. I really love this car and hope with this bulletin they will be able to correct it. If not i may have to shop elsewhere cause i do alot of highway driving and this sounds like a real pain in the *** issue.. My current vehicle is a 2001 pathfinder which i plan to trade and before that i had a 96 acura tl which was 1 of nthe best cars i have evr owned and these new maximas in my opinion ride just as nice and feel just as solid...I really hope they can resolve this and look forward to learning alot on this website...thanks again for everything.........PEACE Mikey
10-21-2010, 12:34 AM
#76
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 3
pull
Well receNtly when test driving a 2010 maxima s..it had a right pull at highway speeds..dealer said that everything is within specs..i let my wife go and drive it again to see if the issue had been addressed and she said it now seems to pull left..i feel that the tech probably didnt even look over the 19 page NTSB i printed and wonder what they did that now its pulling opposite.??.i really want this car but feel that since it is a new car it shouldnt have any problems..I am going to drive it 1 more time today and if any issues persist, than guess i will start shopping for an acura instead..thanks all for your help and information........Mikeyshea
11-17-2010, 01:37 PM
#77
Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 84
Had the car looked at again by a different tech this time. He noticed the front left camber was at 9 degrees compared to the front right at 5 Degrees which he said could cause the vehicle to pull to the right. The front camber is non-adjustable so they replaced the front left strut and the Camber went to spec at 5 Degrees. Unfortunately, it still pulls to the right.
As I said before I work at a Nissan Dealership so I took it upon myself to test drive a few Maximas.
I chose 2 Maximas with 18" Wheels...both pulled to the right. So I figured I'd drive a Maxima with Sport Package 19" wheels. It may be just coincidence, but it didn't pull to the right.
I don't know if maybe there is a problem with the 18" Tires. Both a GoodYear Eagle RS-A so idk.
Please post if you have the Regular or Sport Package and if you're experiencing a pull or not.
Thanks
Brian
As I said before I work at a Nissan Dealership so I took it upon myself to test drive a few Maximas.
I chose 2 Maximas with 18" Wheels...both pulled to the right. So I figured I'd drive a Maxima with Sport Package 19" wheels. It may be just coincidence, but it didn't pull to the right.
I don't know if maybe there is a problem with the 18" Tires. Both a GoodYear Eagle RS-A so idk.
Please post if you have the Regular or Sport Package and if you're experiencing a pull or not.
Thanks
Brian
11-17-2010, 02:07 PM
#78
Had the car looked at again by a different tech this time. He noticed the front left camber was at 9 degrees compared to the front right at 5 Degrees which he said could cause the vehicle to pull to the right. The front camber is non-adjustable so they replaced the front left strut and the Camber went to spec at 5 Degrees. Unfortunately, it still pulls to the right.
As I said before I work at a Nissan Dealership so I took it upon myself to test drive a few Maximas.
I chose 2 Maximas with 18" Wheels...both pulled to the right. So I figured I'd drive a Maxima with Sport Package 19" wheels. It may be just coincidence, but it didn't pull to the right.
I don't know if maybe there is a problem with the 18" Tires. Both a GoodYear Eagle RS-A so idk.
Please post if you have the Regular or Sport Package and if you're experiencing a pull or not.
Thanks
Brian
As I said before I work at a Nissan Dealership so I took it upon myself to test drive a few Maximas.
I chose 2 Maximas with 18" Wheels...both pulled to the right. So I figured I'd drive a Maxima with Sport Package 19" wheels. It may be just coincidence, but it didn't pull to the right.
I don't know if maybe there is a problem with the 18" Tires. Both a GoodYear Eagle RS-A so idk.
Please post if you have the Regular or Sport Package and if you're experiencing a pull or not.
Thanks
Brian
