DMCfirestar500

I am in the process of setting up a sub in my car and hooked an LOC into the speaker outputs of the stock rear non-bose amp tonight. I'm guessing this small amp also has a remote turn on wire so its not on all the time. I haven't taken a multimeter to it yet to try and figure out what wire it may be. Was hoping someone knows what wire it is or somewhere I could find a wiring diagram for it.

Any help would be appretiated.

Juggernaut23

I think all the wiring pin outs for.the stock bose amp in rear deck were posted in another section.and i think we were lucky as our amps dont.turn on by voltage sensing.that would suck a lil bit.

DMCfirestar500

The only wiring layout I was able to find were for the Bose setup. My car is non-bose. I'm pretty sure by process of elimination it is either pin 7 or 9 on the amp connector. If the rain stops today I will take my meter out and verify. I know pins 1,2 and 3,4 are the input from the head unit, 5,6 and 8,10 are the pins for the output to the stock "subwoofers" so that only leaves us with pins 7 and 9 since it is a 10 pin connector. I'm thinking the power and "amp turn on" wires may be the same for that micro amp but that will still work to tie into. The other must be the ground.

Llfe

iTrader: (5)

did you ever figure out where to hook up the remote wire...i'm in the same boat...i remember someone on the board hooked it up to a fuse right next to the steering wheel area

DMCfirestar500

Use this link. Lists the wiring configurations for all A/V configurations:

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/2009/AV.pdf

mb3law

Not sure if this will help anyone, but I just finished an install on my 2010. It has the monochromatic Bose system. It almost killed me. I installed a monoblock amp and two twelves. I have EVERYTHING done except for locating the remote turn-on. I called three differnt car audio stores and JL Audio and no one knew the color code for the turn-on wire at the amp. It is supposed to be pink and black at the head unit if you want to go that route. Anyway, after much toil and metering the wires I narrowed down I found it! It is in the wire harness that plugs into the right (if you are crammed in the trunk looking up at the amp. The wire is baby blue. Splice there and you will have remote on and off. The results were astounding. I added a level adjustment **** (not the JL one) and the adjustment capability is great! I set the filter frequency to about 150hz. It blends extremely well with the stock system. I am no longer using the rear deck "subwoofers". It was truly a labor of love but extremely worth it! Good luck to anyone else who embarks on this journey.

mb3law

This is an FYI for any of you out there that want to add some subs. I searched high and low trying to find the perfect enclosure for two twelves. I cama across an eBay listing that was for a fiberglass enclosure. I was surprised at the great price. I contacted the manufacturer. They have a website. It is at www.fgseonline.com. Check these guys out. Contact Mr. Vales there and tell him what you are looking for. He was able to create a dual sealed, front firing, MDF back and bottom and fiberglass enclosure in two days from the date I paid through paypal. He shipped it for free, total cost $180.00!

Now, if you know fiberglass, and have looked into custom work, you will see that the prices are pretty staggering. The result was a sleak, perfectly fit, flowing, sturdy, compact enclosure with 1.2 cubic feet per sub. The performance is amazing and it fits perfectly beneath the rear deck with the sibs slightly angled to fit right up against the back seat, firing forward and slightly inward so that the center arm rest cutout can be utilized for sound passing through. These guys will be my only choice for ANY enclosures I will have. Kudos to Mr. Vales. Simply amazing!