Got all of my pieces in took three weeks but I thought I would show all you what I am planning on doing before it all gets installed....

Monster 400 Series RCA's and Power and Ground wires.


Tsunami Capacitor Power distribution,battery connectors, and 120 amp circuit breaker.

Kenwood 9960 DVD NAV

JL Audio 750x1

JL audio ZR 650 components, JL Audio HD 640x4 amp Monster Speaker and ground wire

And to top it all off!!!!!

JL AUDIO 12W7

All going in this 2010 Maxima.....

 

I am interested how you will apply that subwoofer and the type of box that you will use/build.I refuse to build any sub that will rattle the trunk like those prefb best buy boxes etc thats in most common setups out there.Please update as you go,looks like a nice start.

I have had good luck with these ported through the deck and armrests.But want to build my own with the same concept.

http://subsolutions.com/

 

I didnt picture it but I have 46 sg ft of sound dead that I am going to apply to everything I dont like rattle either.
This is the rough draft of the box with measurements from JL audio web site and another website that gives free box plans...

I know most instructions say to port to the front but I wanna port this to the rear with the sub firing to the trunk. This will allow for the port to fire into the cab....
Heres the size of the magnet next to the wifes head...FUNNY

 

im looking forward to seeing this every thing there looks good

 

sweet

 

in

 

Nice! Can wait to see the build

 

Looks like a nice build. I would return the capacitor though. It's really only a band-aid for a problem. You would have a much better outcome by simply upgrading your grounds.

 

Lookng forward to see the end results

 

Glad to see you got your build thread up and running! You'll love the HD series amplifiers too. I really enjoy listening to mine, and the lower trunk space usage is quite nice too.

 

I know its been a while but I had a three day weekend to work on the project. First thing I did was run my RCA cables, remote wire and left side speaker wire down the center of the car. I ran my power wire down the left side channel and I would of been able to run the right side speaker down the right channel but I didnt get enough wire.... Mental not for next time 25' is not enough to run from the front doors to the trunk...

I decided to Do my speaker pods like this for the front end.




Pics will soon follow once they are installed.

Here is the amp rack im working on its all done except for the carpeting




Once its carpeted the wiring will be ran through the center with the amps facing the cab and the cross overs for the speakers mounted on the other side.

I didnt get any good pics of the sub box Ill get them up after its carpeted. Something to be aware of though if you are building and it goes over 15" deep the carpet slopes down I had to add in a 1/2" foot at the bottom of my sub box to level it all out.

More to follow when I get back from Alaska!!!!1

 

I have to agree with you on most pre-fab boxes, they were junk 15 years ago when I sold car audio, they're still junk today!

Just make sure you sound deaden the crap out of the trunk and especially the back of the license plate. I pulled all of the panels and carpet out and did every visible area of the trunk that I could. You've really got to jam to get my trunk to rattle and really it's just the license plate that does.

I'd also check into using Dynamat's DynaXorb squares or Cascade's Deflex PowerPads behind the subs and midrange/midbass speakers to cancel rear reflections. You wouldn't believe it until you heard a setup with and without them but it definitely made a difference for me.

 

So question, why not run both speaker wires up the center and then go left and right where they come out under the dash?

Note : I'm sort of a fanatic when it comes to equal length wiring, so you can probably just ignore this one and I won't be offended.

If you pull your trunk carpet, that riser should just be a little styrofoam thing that serves no purpose other than to irritate a car stereo installer. If you've already got the riser in place then I wouldn't sweat it. I just pulled mine because I wanted a little more height for the box.

Things are looking great man. Thanks for sharing with the group!

 

Disregard my last comment about the styrofoam thing. I see you've already pulled it.

 

Normally I run speaker and RCA on the sides and power down the middle... This time I decided to do it opposite. I ran the right side down the track to try and save on speaker wire.. it didnt help though cause I still needed to order more...

I didnt see any Styrofoam piece I might go back in later and add something under the carpet to level it off...

I did use the Dyna Xorb pads in the front I might put them in the box but to be honest I dont like how it looks so far Im going to listen to it for a while but probably rebuild it or build one in the spare tire opening... I went through three sheets of MDF and cant cut a damn straight line to save my life.... Good thing the carpet will hide my mistakes.

Thanks for all your comments Im stoked to finish the rest once all the other stuff comes in and I get back from AK

 

good luck do it all.. post some pics after

 

Wow in for progress!

 

Now you all got me fired up!
So I went and bought that same jl amp the 750/1!I bought it due to its specs that most in its class just dont have $ for $.The 2 main reasons I wanted it is now matter what the impedance and voltage it will produce the same amount of power as it describes.This is a big plus cause I see many times voltage is not always 14.4volts where many amps are rated.And lastly the dmaping factor is >500@4ohm and >250@2ohms. I will be running a pair of 12 inch alpines to a 4ohm load for this reason.The price and specs for this amp isnt bad considering I didnt get it super cheap at $520 new in box with the RLC and I should be happy.
Next I am gonna take the time to build a proper built to exact spec enclosure like the OP above and have it ported through the armrest to avoid any need at all for any sound deading material and to have the sound directed directly into the cabin.I hope not to encounter to much port turbulance so I will have to see in the end.There is noway I can deal with the infamous trunk rattle and spending so much to quiet it down.

Lastly, after searching through some threads I wanted to know which Line Output Converter most of you are using and Which wires you are tapping into?Is the factory bose amp cutting out any freq's when grabbing the rear sub wires for the LOC units?Please clear this up for me and maybe some others if possible.

Since I am just using that 1 JL amp for the subs I will see if I can get by with just updating my battery and some of the stock wiring under the hood.It is a good reason to finally install that ground kit I bought on black friday.lol.

 

Here is how I am going to mount my amps


Im using 2 pieces of MDF


A piece of ABS for backing I wanted to use mdf but it was too thick

Velcro


Other Side

both amps placed in the carpeting

More pics to follow once the carpet is reinstalled and the wires are ran to the amps. What do you all think?

 

 

I tried a lot of different things and finally came up with this

First I bought a pair of 6x9 plates that allow for 6 1/2 speakers. Yeah they are crap so I used the plates as patterns to cut the Plexiglas inserts.

Than I tried using a PVC pipe cap to mount the tweet to the speaker assembly but when I mounted it I found that it was behind the door at a place where it would make the tweeter worthless.
So I really didnt want to do this but I found a good spot on the door panel and cut the speaker in place.


I used the speaker mount and had the wife mount it to the door so I could trace the circle and cut out the circle for the tweeter.

And here is the final product


Tomorrow I will be wiring in both amps and hopefully have the fronts running. Im still waiting on the Sub Box to come in.

 

Clean looking install.

 

Is that velcro I see holding the amps?

 

So are you going to sound deaden the inside of the doors and such? I didn't see any pictures so I was just wondering.

Also, I would recommend that you add some sound deadening on your plexiglass pieces like you did on your original wooden ones. I'd also do some inside of that plastic factory 6x9 holder to stiffen that thing up. It made a drastic difference when I did it in my car, even with the factory speakers still in place. One thing to note is that it did give it a flat sound, use Dynaxorb or Cascade Deflex pads to fix that.

Best of luck with your build man!

 

Nice buy on the HD750/1! I really love mine and can't stop talking about it. I hope you enjoy yours just as much. It's definitely a great amp. And you're right on about driving it into a 4ohm load. Get yourself two 8ohm SVC woofers or 4ohm DVC woofers (wired with the voice coils in series), bridge them to the HD750/1, and enjoy the slam festival. As you pointed out, the amplifier has a lower damping factor and draws more power at 2ohm than it does at 4ohm, so avoid that at all costs.

You should be fine unless you just crank the gain up too high or drive the amplifier into too low of an ohm load and then jam the hell out of it. At 4ohm it should do great. The power supply in that amp is very tightly regulated and will handle the voltage fluctuations with ease. One note, when you run your power wire, I'd do 4awg OFC. No CCA stuff. It's cheaper but the resistance is a lot higher.

Best of luck man!

 

What page are you guys using in the pdf for the Bose amp wiring diagram?I have the bose w/navi and the wire colors at the amp dont match.Am I looking at the wrong page of the pdf?
BTW, I used the small light blue wire in the harness to the right if your looking at the amp while laying in the trunk upside down for the remote turn on.And for the LOC I Used the 2 rear subwoofer speaker output wires at the amp i traced back. The gain is good,but the already x-over output from the bose just blows.I rather find which is the front speaker input wires and tag them and feed my sub amp with that to use the amps x-over rather then what the bose is giving me. I think i went by the diagram on page 469,was that the wrong page in the audio pdf?