Well if you dont find out, and they are one ohm, then two ohm speakers should sound fine. As long as the new speakers are the same or higher impedence, it wont hurt the amp.

 

Cant you check the impedence with a digital multimeter?

 

yes, i did this when i pulled out mine. The stock speakers are slightly below 2 ohms. If you choose to keep the stock amp, understand that there is a filter on the front door speakers and the "tweeter" on the dash. I would guess xover point to be somewhere close to 1K. I would be very careful in replacement tweeter choices as they will be easy to blow at this low a Xover point. Also, the rear deck has a LP filter at about 120 Hz.

I too gutted the Boss amp and also pulled off the pre-amp line from the factory wiring.

 

The 7th generation of maxi ma is the best one. It tapped the signal using from the inputs.The prior generation of this was not so competitive in the market.

 

How deep of a midrange do you think you can get away with while using the factory spacer?

 

Not sure what you mean by "how deep a mid range"? If you mean physical dimensions, the mid rang is 3 1/4 by 3 1/4. It top monts and is 1 1/2 inches deep (lower mounting depth). Not sure how much extra space below the tweeter. I swaped my speakers out over a year ago.

 

Hey there platinum300,
Would you be kind enough to tell me how many ohms were the stock bose speakers that you removed?
Thank you

 

nice

 

the 6x9's are 2ohms

 

I noticed one thing. On the bose system when I used the fader to just drive the speakers in the back, there was sound coming from the front door speakers. The tweeters and the center died out but there was bass coming from all the speakers. Is there something wrong with my amp or the configuration? All i hear is bass from the rear speakers(door and back panel) and the front door. People have complained to me that they cant hear anything if they sat in the back but I did not believe then. But I do now....LOL.

 

Hey platinum how exactly did you splice the speaker wire to connect to the lc2i? I read you said you splice the LF+: white/red, LF-: black/red, RF+: white/blue, and RF-: gray/purple but what exactly did you use to splice it? a wire tap? Also does the lc2i need a power and a ground wire? I've read in some places it doesn't but then I read someones review saying that it does need a power and a ground wire. Any way help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advice.

 

You can use some wire taps, but I soldered some wires instead. It's totally up to you.

The LC2i needs power, ground and remote wire.

 

I had a single 15" SL5 and it was too tall to fit under the rear deck, so I sold it. So, based on that I'd say no.

 

Hmm what did you use as your remote wire? I was trying to get away with not having to take out the factory head unit. I don't mind taking off the door panels and what not to install the power wire for the amp but with all those wire behind the head unit I bet it can be a pain if you do mess it up at all. I don't know why I thought by just connecting the LC2i to the speaker wires it would actually have power and turn on. I think the website might be a little misleading. I think it says you just plug them into the speaker wires you want to tap and blam the LC2i has power but I'm guessing this is not the case. Anyway any help is appreciate thank you.

 

I know some members have used the remote wire from the stock amp. I forgot the wire color. Do a search on this site and you might find it. I myself used an empty slot in the fuse box (the one inside the car). There are about 3 empty slots and one of them is accessory power. Just grab a multimeter and test it. Just solder your remote wire onto a 2 amp fuse and stick it into the empty slot.

 

Are the bose Amp(s) in the rear deck ? or did you tap in up front somewhere?

 

The Bose amp is under the rear deck. Grab your wires from there.

 

the bose system in my 2011 max sv is amazing

 

I know this thread is a bit dated, so forgive me. I've searched and haven't seen anyone else with this, but I'm hoping someone else has come across this. I have the monitor package in my '11 Max and I recently updated (read "replaced") my BOSE system. I used the LC2i to tap into the factory system , and I've seen others here do the same thing. The only issue now is that the volume from my phone via bluetooth has dropped substantially. Anyone else see this and have a solution?

 

You used the LC2i just for subs correct??

 

I tapped the front input fpr the LC2i. The main out from there goes to processor, then to amps for front channel and subs. I'm bypassing the bose amp and factory speakers completely.

 

If i'm thinking about this correctly, you don't need the LC2i anymore if you have a processor. That's only for the Bose system. My guess is the processor might be turned done too low maybe so its not processing the low signal coming front the factory radio.

 

I still need the lc2i as a LOC; I've kept the factory head unit. Radio, cd, and audio via USB sounds fine. It's just the Bluetooth that's low, so that I can barely hear phone calls.

 

Might have something to do with not also tapping into the center channel.

 

The av control unit only sends front and rear to the Bose amp. The Bose amp separates from there. I tapped the front preamp for the signal. I know others have used this setup successfully. I wouldn't think the Bluetooth should be any different from other audio signals as the av control unit is before the amp and only puts out four channels.

 

I like the BOSE system. I had a big system like yours in college, but I couldn't afford to do the same thing to the max.

 

Do you still have your original pictures the links arnt working