2010 Maxima SV Audio Install
2010 Maxima SV Audio Install
Purchased car in December 2010. The factory BOSE system licks monkey *****. Really muddy midbass, no clear highs and muffled midrange. Unfortunately I have the Navigation package, so I'm stuck using the factory source unit.
The goal was to have a really good sounding system that can get loud with minimal custom work.
Head Unit: Factory DVD/CD player with Bluetooth, Bluetooth Audio, USB, IPOD, Aux In
OEM Integration Piece: Audio Control LC2i (tapped the signal using the front inputs - before the bose amp)
Front Tweeter and Mid Amp: Rockford Fosgate T4004
Sub Amp: Rockford Fosgate T5002
Subs: 2 x 12" Kaption Audio SPL 1200
Enclosure: 2 cubic feet sealed
Mids: Hybrid Audio L6
Tweeters: DLS UR1
Crossovers for Mids and Tweets: Hertz Mille MLCX2 (bi-wiring for mids and tweets)
Power Wire: Stinger 2 gauge
Sound Deadening: Dynamat Extreme (trunk and trunk lid) - will do rear deck and doors later
Power wire and fuse holder:

Door off and Cascade Engineering Deflex Pad Mounted and Stinger 16 gauge wire for mid:

Factory 6 x 9:

Modified factory spacer:

Hybrid Audio L6 mounted:

Factory Bose Tweeter:

DLS UR1 Tweeter with plate:

Factory Tweeter Cover:

Audio Control LC2i Bass Controller:

Factory Nav/DVD Player:

Amplifiers mounted on a 1" mdf board. Barely fit with only about 1" to spare. This was taken before wires were cleaned up:

Will have to redo the subwoofer trim covers later:

After hours of tuning I'm finally happy with the sound. The mids get very loud, with very good clean midbass/midrange. The tweeters sound amazing in the factory location. I still have the factory center speaker installed and it really helps with the imaging. I have a really wide, high, centered sound stage. I hope you enjoyed the pics.
The goal was to have a really good sounding system that can get loud with minimal custom work.
Head Unit: Factory DVD/CD player with Bluetooth, Bluetooth Audio, USB, IPOD, Aux In
OEM Integration Piece: Audio Control LC2i (tapped the signal using the front inputs - before the bose amp)
Front Tweeter and Mid Amp: Rockford Fosgate T4004
Sub Amp: Rockford Fosgate T5002
Subs: 2 x 12" Kaption Audio SPL 1200
Enclosure: 2 cubic feet sealed
Mids: Hybrid Audio L6
Tweeters: DLS UR1
Crossovers for Mids and Tweets: Hertz Mille MLCX2 (bi-wiring for mids and tweets)
Power Wire: Stinger 2 gauge
Sound Deadening: Dynamat Extreme (trunk and trunk lid) - will do rear deck and doors later
Power wire and fuse holder:

Door off and Cascade Engineering Deflex Pad Mounted and Stinger 16 gauge wire for mid:

Factory 6 x 9:

Modified factory spacer:

Hybrid Audio L6 mounted:

Factory Bose Tweeter:

DLS UR1 Tweeter with plate:

Factory Tweeter Cover:

Audio Control LC2i Bass Controller:

Factory Nav/DVD Player:

Amplifiers mounted on a 1" mdf board. Barely fit with only about 1" to spare. This was taken before wires were cleaned up:

Will have to redo the subwoofer trim covers later:

After hours of tuning I'm finally happy with the sound. The mids get very loud, with very good clean midbass/midrange. The tweeters sound amazing in the factory location. I still have the factory center speaker installed and it really helps with the imaging. I have a really wide, high, centered sound stage. I hope you enjoyed the pics.
To remove the tweeter cover, I used a right angle pick carefully and removed the black circle thingy (red arrow pointed to it). I then put my finger in the small hole and the tweeter cover came out easily.

The factory tweeter is 3.5", but it can easily fit a 4" with small modification with a dremel tool. I did run new wires for the tweeter. I used a 3 foot long wire tire and fished the wire down the hole. You can get those long wire ties from most hardware stores.

The factory tweeter is 3.5", but it can easily fit a 4" with small modification with a dremel tool. I did run new wires for the tweeter. I used a 3 foot long wire tire and fished the wire down the hole. You can get those long wire ties from most hardware stores.
That's how the sound should be. From in front of you. In my last car all I had was a set of 6.5" components and it sounded better than the Bose with 9 speakers.
whats gonna happen to the people in the back seat all theu gonna feel is the bass from the seat. im just saying i never heard a system with only the front has speakers
I rarely drive with passengers anyway.
The Audio Control LC2i is super easy to install. It accepts a pair of speaker level inputs (left and right), tap into the front input (before the bose amp). The LC2i has a subwoofer preout and a full range preout. I highly recommend getting this piece if you have the Navigation Package.
The Audio Control LC2i is super easy to install. It accepts a pair of speaker level inputs (left and right), tap into the front input (before the bose amp). The LC2i has a subwoofer preout and a full range preout. I highly recommend getting this piece if you have the Navigation Package.
What you want is to tap into a clean signal (full range signal), meaning a signal that hasn't been eq'd or x-over. That was the reason I tapped into the front input channels (before the bose amp).
If you were to grab it after the amp, then it wouldn't be a clean signal (full range). It maybe ok doing that way if you were only adding a subwoofer amp (tapping into the rear Bose subwoofers after the amp).
If you were to add amplifiers to power your mids, tweets, and subs, then definately tap into the front inputs (before the amp). I highly recommend you get the Audio Control LC2i for various reasons: easy to install, it's an active line output convertor, the preouts gives you a maximum of 9volts, it has Accubass. Accubass is a feature on the LC2i which compensates for lost bass at higher volumes. What happens with most factory amplified systems like Bose, Infinity, etc. is when you crank up the volume, the factory amplifier reduces the bass going to your speakers to protect them. This is very true with the Maxima's Bose system. MTX RE-Q is another LOC that has the same bass compensation technology, but it's a lot harder to install.
If you were to grab it after the amp, then it wouldn't be a clean signal (full range). It maybe ok doing that way if you were only adding a subwoofer amp (tapping into the rear Bose subwoofers after the amp).
If you were to add amplifiers to power your mids, tweets, and subs, then definately tap into the front inputs (before the amp). I highly recommend you get the Audio Control LC2i for various reasons: easy to install, it's an active line output convertor, the preouts gives you a maximum of 9volts, it has Accubass. Accubass is a feature on the LC2i which compensates for lost bass at higher volumes. What happens with most factory amplified systems like Bose, Infinity, etc. is when you crank up the volume, the factory amplifier reduces the bass going to your speakers to protect them. This is very true with the Maxima's Bose system. MTX RE-Q is another LOC that has the same bass compensation technology, but it's a lot harder to install.
Thank you for the reply. I was wondering if it would be a good idea to swap out all the speakers(Front door & rear door) with alpine type R. Would the stock amp have enough power to drive them all?? Or should I go with type S ones??


