That's real good cause my friends who live in Az say u can almost set ur timer to 2 month on a new car and ur battery will die in Az.

 

My friends 09 maxima has 76k and no issues w battery yet
I have 18k on mine and no battery issues yet. Although if I do. I will go optima

 

Optima batteries are widely considered overrated:

http://gbodyforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=267199

I've never had one, so have no personal experience, but I seem to be hearing way more bad than good lately.

 

Well mine just died on me today after 4 years of use with 65k miles

 

To everyone in this thread that has replaced their battery:
My father and I are arguing about some "Special code" that supposedly came with the car. I am completely unaware of this, and he has gotten me worried that if my car battery completely fails, and I have to replace it, I will also have to somehow enter this special code into the car for it to start up correctly again.

He says that for all new cars, there is a this "special code" that you have to enter into the car for the car to start up and everything once you have replaced the battery. Even a quick disconnection and reconnection would require this code.

I have searched everywhere, and there is no mention of this special code, not even in the owners manual, and no where on the forums. I can think of a code that might be required for some cars if their radio or navigation was disconnected from the constant 12v power supply as an theft-deterrent, but for the entire car?

Can someone elaborate please?

 

You have to spell the code out, it's "JACKALOPE".


Jk. I haven't ever heard anything about this. And any of the batteries that have been listed in this thread will work the same.

 

That is what I figured, I see Radio Codes and Navigation Codes everywhere, but nothing about a code to start up the car after a simple battery replacement.
Thanks.

Other thoughts:
I was told that thieves do not go after modern cars because they have these special codes that must be entered after a battery replacement.
Well, then, why in the [lol] would you change out a battery while carjacking?
Why not just, you know, take the keys from whom ever you are robbing and drive?

 

Rather than opinions about batteries go to the November 2012 Consumer Report rating on batteries by their engineers. The best value and the cheapest is Kirkland signature 12865 at $60 with 100 month prorated warranty. The best is Bosch premium power35-6408 at $90.

 

My '09 was built in Sept 2008, and the OEM battery is still doing fine, despite June and July being two of the hottest months ever recorded in the history of the Atlanta weather bureau. We had 108 degrees several days in a row at our place this summer.

But then I am retired, and my car spends most of its time in a large heated/air conditioned garage, which doubtlessly helps the battery. Also, my dealer is fastideous about checking the battery every time I go in for scheduled maintenance or an oil change.

And I check the battery every month or two, especially in hot weather, and NEVER leave any device on once I turn off the engine. From posts I have seen here over the years, this battery does not like furnishing power to anything once the engine is off.

I do feel I am nearing the point where I am taking a chance with this battery, and have been thinking about upgrading before my next major trip.

 

I replaced the battery for my car in Jan. 2011, 14 months after purchase.

I didn't use any codes on restart.

 

My battery died right about halfway into June, took it on the highway did a couple things, but I think the built up heat after I parked it for the day was what killed the battery, but my typical 3 mile daily commute, probably worn my battery out more then the typical driver who drives a bit more daily

 

You are absolutely right about mostly very short trips and sitting in the broiling heat after the engine has already made the engine compartment very hot combine to making life very tough for a battery.

 

My battery kicked at about 2 years and 55K miles. My daily commute is ~100 miles round trip.

 

We have a 2009 Maxima and after 130,000 kilometers, so about 80,000 miles, our battery went dead. Was the original battery. Dealer advised the battery went dead and at the amount of miles on the car, it was normal. Had them replace with a good battery to put the chances on my side that it will last another 80,000 miles.

Danny

 

This is why my Buick had the battery under the back seat and my BMW has the battery under the trunk floor. This really make them last longer

 

My battery was acting funny trying to start one morning a few months ago went to nissan they ran a check said it was low for some reason but not an issue yet (21k miles) and its been perfect since then.

 

I had the original battery replaced after 18k miles/8 months. Fast forward to now...the replacement is now going bad. This battery has just under 3 years and 77k miles on it (93500 total on the car).

I called nissan since the replacement had a prorated warranty and it would still be $65-70 to replace with another crappy battery.

Headed to Advance now to get a real battery for 92$ after coupon code

 

We need some feedback from those that have had battery problems, was it do to lack of water being added? Long ago I threw out the squeeze bottle battery filler and now I'm back to trying to fill it with a little bottle. If its just do to being a cheap battery and not a maintenance issue, I'll just change out the battery.

 

As I posted a few weeks ago on another battery thread somewhere here, Nissan switched this past July from a 550 cold cranking amp battery to a 700 cold cranking amp 80 month warranty battery for the 7th gen Maxima. This was as a result of many complaints regarding the 7th gen OEM batteries.

As soon as my service advisor informed me of this change, I immediately had my OEM battery replaced with the newer one, even though my OEM battery had performed perfectly for 4 years in my car built in Sept of 2008. I don't need to wait until it fails at 3AM a hundred miles from nowhere.

The new, stronger Nissan battery costs $129, with a $15 rebate if you give them the old battery. That means an installed price of $114 for a 7 year battery warranted by Nissan. Of course, with a coupon, the Advance Auto deal is better, unless we can get prorated money from Nissan toward their new better battery.

 

Current best code for AAP is "A124" - $40 off $110 or more.

 

This is a little unrelated but also be aware that these oem batteries are not maintenance free...you need to check the water levels and top off with distiller water appropriately...my 2012 has 860 miles (built 4/12) and yesterday took about a quart of water to top off...

 

Thanks, I will check. I am shocked you had to fill so early.

FYI if anyone is interested, the DieHard Platinum AGM battery is on Sale. Still pricey, but:

http://www.sears.com/diehard-platinu...p-02850035000P

 

so which battery do we buy from AAP? My battery craped out on me

 

I would get the AutoCraft Gold. I would also suggest the group 24 over the group 35.

 

More capacity? Does a group 24 fit with the standard Maxima bracket/tray/wiring?

 

10% more CCA, 30% more reserve capacity.

Many sites recommend the 24F, not sure why AAP has group 35 listed.

 

I believe same with sears and pep boys, either have group 35 as best fit. Also O'rielly for people that have those.

 

As much as I love love love my maxima, I now feel its not enough "car " for the money we paid.
A buddy bought a 3 series Bmers for the same price and has way more features (and more power) for example their TPMS that tell which tire needs air..compared to ours that just lights up...the S****y OEM brake pads, bushings, battery and rear sway bar we have.
If it was a $25K car i wouldn't mind..but most of us here spent $35K and above....
Still love my car though

 

Your buddys bmer was probably not designed in ~06? Even the Altimas tell you which tires exactly have low air and i think the 11 and newer Maximas have this. Even the new Impala has more features than the Maxima because its so old. So that sets the bar the New Maxima should be loaded or either get a price drop. And I dont think anyone is paying Above $32K for these Maximas....

 

When I priced the 3 series it was about $8k ( real price, not sticker) more than a similarly equipped max