Last night after I came from work I left my car in front of the house for 30 min or so... When I came out to repark it , it turned over like the battery was a little weak.... Today in the morning the battery was done! I mean no turning over, nothing... The steering wheel and seat barely moved into position and then I couldnt turn acc off... Everything would go off but then come back on.
Anyway, I got a boost drove around for a while parked and a few hours later the battery is dead. The door puddle lights were fine, some lights on the dash was fine and the monitor went into an on off cycle. I couldn't turn the headlights on but after a few clicks on and off the lights came on ( except the hids) except now they wouldn't turn off til I finally disconnected the battery. I got a boost and it fired right up within a few seconds.
So now I'm sitting with the car on, noticed my auto up window wasn't working so I tried resetting I by holding up for a few seconds... Then the window barely came down but wouldn't go up for a few seconds... Note however that the other windows worked fine! I tried this for the pass side and sure enough same exact thing, but the back windows were fine( while the front wasn't or was barely moving) .... There were absolutely no changes with anything prior to this, just a regular 30 min drive home from work... The only thing I can think of is that I charged my phone in the car for once (with the car on). I'm really stumped here as I've been stuck with dead batteries but this behavior is unusual.
Anyone? Any clues at all? I'm gonna take it in but I'm worried they might blame the resistors for my turning signal or my intake.

 

Replace your battery, the 7th Gens will require maintinance as in proper fluid levels.
Have you ever checked it?

 

What fluid levels? The car is a year old w 12k miles... With proper maintenance and no abuse. I shouldn't be changing the battery yet

 

The stock battery isn't a maintenance free model you need to check the electrolyte level. Carefully remove the battery cap or caps with a standard screwdriver. The electrolyte should be over the battery plates and reaching the indicator split ring, just inside the filler opening. Fill the cells up to the correct level if necessary using distilled water.

Or do what many of us have done and just replace the battery.

 

Pop the tops off your battery and check the water level, before I say anything else check that, if low fill to proper level.

Acc working and car clicking is a dead battery, when the battery dies, you need to reset the windows, sunroof, radio stations

 

Ok, I'm not sure if you guys are messing me me as I did find some info regarding electrolytes, however I"ve never heard of this before...
I only got it to click once, and I can't turn the car off after I try starting it, now tell me that isn't weird.
I had an '07 altima before, and once I drained the battery listening to music, but it showed regular signs of a dead battery, dim lights, clicking, not turning over.

I've never been unable to shut off a car in which the battery has died, I was also never unable to turn off the friggin lights. Explain to me how a dead battery does that? And how come only one of the windows doesnt roll up or down, while the others function fine. I don't know if you guys thought I was making this crap up, after which you recommended I open the battery, but I'm dead serious and this isn't my first car so I know what a dead battery should be like and this is just plain weird.
The biggest thing bugging me is why the hell I couldn't turn the exterior lights off.

 

Not a big surprise, the OEM batteries suck. Buy an Optima Red Top and be done with it. There are other posts about this, see this link:

http://forums.maxima.org/7th-generat...y-so-soon.html

 

Yea I'm going to replace the battery and see what happens, but I'm still weirded out by the symptoms.

 

Replaced the battery, so far so good! Thanks guys

 

the same this is happening to my car =[ but it has also happen befor and i did the same just change the battery

 

Mine was replaced under warranty when I still had <15k on the car.

 

Anyone interested in an Optima Red Top here is a link to the proper part # http://forums.maxima.org/7th-generat...a-red-top.html

 

Just get the optima red battery, roll down the windows and blast that music till the neighbors call the cops

 

Look I need a new battery for my 2010 Maxima and I do not want to pay $150 - $200 for a battery. Can someone please recommend me a battery besides the Optima Red-Top?

 

I seem to recall we use the type 24 battery in the Maxima. In the May 2011 Consumer Reports, the second-highest rated type 24 battery is:

EverStart Maxx-24S (South) at $75, sold only at WalMart.

In that same test, the top-rated battery was:

Interstate Mega-Tron Plus MTP-24 sold at indepent shops for $115.

The third best (actually tied the EverStart for 2nd best) was:

Diehard Gold 50624 (North) for $110 sold only at Sears stores in the northern part of the country.

The fourth best (and actually rated only one point behind the #2 and #3 rated batteries):

NAPA Legend Premium 8424 (for $90, sold at NAPA stores only).

If I was pressed for cash and doing normal driving, I would have no real qualms buying any of these four batteries.

When buying, remember some cars attach battery cables to the side of the battery, and some attach cables to the top of the battery. The 7th gen Maxima attaches cables to the top.

Good luck.

 

I had the EXACT same issue as the OP, 2009 Max running fine(43k miles) then I go shopping at a few places and suddenly noticed it took a little longer than usual to rollover. Then the very next place I left it started making a grinding noise when I pushed the ignition and I couldnt push down on the brake pedal. I figured it was an electrical issue, the starter or the alternator. Ultimately got a jump, and Autozone tested the battery and it said replace asap. Got the Optima Redtop that was recommended numerous times on this forum and all is well! Love this forum! Thanks all!

 

Get a hold of your dealer, I had a battery replaced after i had my 07 for about 18 months, they replaced it under warranty,

 

Hi guy I bought a 2010 Maxima in October 09 and I am experiencing similar problems to the original poster.

All I did was uses one of those 12v plug in tire inflaters while I had the radio on. I forgot to turn the engine on.

After inflating one tire, it seemed my battery had died. The radio shut off, the tire inflater seemed it was operating at half power. The car was stuck in the ON position I could not cycle the to acc or off, one of my headlights was stuck on.

I disconnected the battery to see if I can reset, but when it tries to start the engine it goes rapidly KLACK KLACK KLACK KLACK KLACK KLACK KLACK KLACK and electronics goes into weird mode.

So couple questions:
Is that what the starter is suppose to sound like?
Do I have a bad battery? (Seems like I should be able to power this device...)

I'm going to attempt to recharge and see what happens....

 

The 'klack klack' generally means there is not enough power in the battery to turn the engine over. Using the radio in this vehicle with the motor off is a distinct no-no. Other here have found that out the hard way.

This car uses electricity for far more purposes than the cars we had in the old days. But the batteries have not improved greatly over those years. Having the radio, tire inflator and headlights all on without the motor running for five or ten minutes could reduce the power in your battery enough to prevent it from starting your car. I had to replace the battery in both my '00 SE and my '04 SL after around thirty months, and I tried to be careful with them from day one.

I doubt your battery poles are corroded enough to prevent the passage of current. Recharging your battery will probably fix the problem, unless your battery has another problem, such as a bad cell, and won't hold a charge.

 

Thanks for the reply. I did recharge the battery and all is good now. I have never had a car act so strange on a low battery!

Thanks for the insight.