I need some help I wired up a aftermarket sub and everything is finished except the part where I can't find the wire behind the stock radio that turns the Power on and off to the amp ? Any one install a amp before ?

 

You can just get an Add a Fuse and attach it to an empty fuse location on the drivers side fuse panel. Very easy and no need to remove the radio.

http://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-BP-HH...uct/B000GKEXK2

Looks something like that and can be found at any radioshack/autozone/advance auto parts, etc.

 

Oh ok but where doe the fuse get it's power from?

 

I believe you are speaking of remote turn on wire from the deck. It is usually the blue wire on the rear of the deck. No need to place a fuse inline.

 

I need power for the sub I figures I can get it from the same wire that powers the stock sub when I turn on the radio?

 

Yes the blue wire bit there's like 5 is there a way to determine which one it is ? Some are blue with silver dots

 

It is a solid blue wire.

What deck you using?

 

If you really wanted to know for sure, measure the voltage, it should be around 12-14Volts.

 

another option is to splice into the control wire that goes to the amp in the trunk, thats what i did and it turns my amp on/off when the sound system turns on normally. if you want I can go look at what color wire I spliced into for that and let you know, then again that'd only be helpful if you have a 7th gen

 

7th Gen. A/V wiring diagrams:
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Maxima/2010/AV.pdf

 

Any luck in finding the remote turn on?

 

it's a light blue wire. my wire is the thicker solid blue one, so ignore that. you'll have to strip off some of the wire sheath to get to it, it's the wire harness coming out of the back of the amp thats mounted to the trunk ceiling

 

Still a good idea to have an inline closest to the power source. If the wire get's shorted to ground it could blow the head unit...

 

you're talking about the fuse you put on the positive wire that runs to your battery, yes you want a fuse on that wire as close to the battery as possible.

you do NOT use a fuse on the control (remote turn on) wire that tells your amp when to turn on/off. not sure if that'd make it not work or just be a waste, but ive never heard of using a fuse on the control wire it doesnt carry that much current.

 

It carries enough power to blow the circuit in the head unit if you should short the wire to ground. Best practice is to fuse it close to the source, always.

Of course you can get by without it, but don't crimp the wire under a seat or putting back in a trim panel and make contact with ground...a fried head unit is not uncommon in those circumstances...

 

what kind of fuse would you use for such a low amount of draw? i guess i can see that, never thought about grounding it by accident i usually work on my car with the battery disconnected. but yea if u crimp or it gets the casing cut i can see how that'd cause a problem

 

Are you suggesting putting an inline fuse on a 12V remote turn on wire? Seriously? I have never heard of this practice. But hey whatever works! I am perfectly fine without running an inline fuse as I don't see the need for it. What are the odds that I will short the wire out to blow the deck? I will take my chances....

 

It's 12V with minimal current!

What size fuse would you put inline? Like I said before I will take my chances without as I just don't see the need for it.

 

if you dont have nav change the headunit cause the factory one sucks for real sound i changed of of mine and got it to sound the best i have heard

 

Years ago aftermarket stereos would come with the inline fuse assembly already on the remote turnon wire. 0.3amp was typical as I recall. Things may have changed since then, protected circuit perhaps, but we're talking about power from a factory head unit, why would you take any chances? It's positive power period, and without a break point, you're forcing all catastrophic shorts to occur inside the factory head unit. Even with a 1 amp fuse I'd feel more protected then with nothing...

 

I remember that they would have a fuse on the power side from the batter to the HU but never on the remote turn on! One would think that becuz it is an output side, it would hurt the amp more than the HU?

I have never had an issue with the remote wire burning out the HU. I see your point of protecting yourself but it isn't like the wire is going to move around to get pinched to create a short. Can it happen? Sure, but what are the odds of that happening?

 

When there is a short without fuse protection, the source is going to get the damage nearly every time, where the destination will typically just lose power from the broken circuit. Since the remote turnon is provided by the head unit, HU is the source, and will receive the damage if the short isn't broken by a fuse.

Sure, how often does it happen...I can't remember the last time I blew a fuse, but if anything does go wrong, I'm wearing protection on all my positive power wires...

 

I agree with what your saying, It's always safe too have that break in the power connection when dealing with electrical regardless of the draw in current.

 

lol Like I said putting a fuse in line with the remote turn on that's all on you guys. If the remote turn on is ran properly and is secured it won't get shorted. But do as you must.... There is no right or wrong in this case!!!

 

Just installed a system in my car and I tapped into the bose amp with this...

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...AC-SNI-15.html

Best way to do it IMO...

 

That's for just the audio signal, you still need to tap into the control wire to tell the amp when to turn on. I started out with one of these LOC then switched to an amp that has speaker level inputs for a cleaner install.

 

I guess Ill have to post pics to show how clean my install is when I finish it up

 

sorry wasn't implying your setup was messy lol. when I had a LOC it was clean too cuz everything was hidden above the ceiling panel. just less crap up there now