2010 maxima wont start. HELP!
#1
2010 maxima wont start. HELP!
hey guys i have a 2010 maxima premium fully loaded 18000 miles only like a year n half old. well my car goes to start up and it makes a sound like its trying then sometimes it goes threw and starts up and other times it just straight out dies. but when it dies it makes a ticking sound but my fog lights are on sometimes or my directionals are one. i dunno if its a shortage and nissan once again ****ed something up lol. please help any1 ever have this problem?
and also how many people keep getting that rear end squeek that they claim they fix and keeps coming back? lol
just my luck, thanks guys
and also how many people keep getting that rear end squeek that they claim they fix and keeps coming back? lol
just my luck, thanks guys
#2
Sounds like a bad ground or battery. The fogs will come on because it doesn't take that much power to turn them on but there isn't enough behind the battery to start the starter. So th clicking should be the starter. You have any after market wiring work or anything done to it?
#3
its all stock only aftermark is theres tints. Its the wierdest thing. im thinking theres a shortage or something. there wasnt anything wrong with the car until i brought it in for a squeek in the front and they something called a " straight time for dash rattle repair". now im having this problem
#4
Im thinking bad ground or u just might have a dead cell in the battery Pep Boys will check ur battery for free and can put a load on it while testing it I also have a 2010 max with the sports package and when i go over a speed bump i hear a squeak it sounds like its coming from the right rear i did have a bent lower control arm in the rear dont kno how the hell that happened but after it was replaced i still have the squeek
#5
Hey big, goes it possible for the ground to go bad now? Would it o happened to me in the past? I had the car for a year and a half. It could be the battery I hope it is... As far as the squeek goes its a common problem my dealership told me with the Maximas the way they designed them u get a squeek. The one in the rear is it on the passangers side? If so that's where mine is and it's a problem with the shock it's common it comes out in the cold but it should be fixed. It's a 40k car shouldn't be doing this ****. I also found Nissan to make this car pretty cheaply which I'm very sad about. Since I've only heard good reviews about Nissan.
#6
Im thinking bad ground or u just might have a dead cell in the battery Pep Boys will check ur battery for free and can put a load on it while testing it I also have a 2010 max with the sports package and when i go over a speed bump i hear a squeak it sounds like its coming from the right rear i did have a bent lower control arm in the rear dont kno how the hell that happened but after it was replaced i still have the squeek
#8
#9
Hey big, goes it possible for the ground to go bad now? Would it o happened to me in the past? I had the car for a year and a half. It could be the battery I hope it is... As far as the squeek goes its a common problem my dealership told me with the Maximas the way they designed them u get a squeek. The one in the rear is it on the passangers side? If so that's where mine is and it's a problem with the shock it's common it comes out in the cold but it should be fixed. It's a 40k car shouldn't be doing this ****. I also found Nissan to make this car pretty cheaply which I'm very sad about. Since I've only heard good reviews about Nissan.
#10
I'm actually having a similar problem. I just bought the car (an 09 Sv) that has spent most of it's life in the northeast. The previous owner had installed an optima yellow top in it which is great, however I noticed the positive battery connection was as tight as could be to the point of being deformed. I went to remove the positive battery cable today and the thing ripped in two! What a piece of crap! There is actually very little surface area of the post to contact the terminal. The problem may simply be fixed by removing the cable, cleaning and re-attaching. I of course had to order a new part. $13, but cheaper than a new battery.
#11
This is so odd-same exact thing happened to me today when I left my car in the on position without the motor running. In other words I drained the battery for six hours and the fogs were on but no starting. In fact, I couldn't turn the fogs off so it was like some type of warning that the battery was drained. In addition, heard a ticking sound from the fuse box.
Jump start did the trick so with that being said, I would guess your battery is going out
Jump start did the trick so with that being said, I would guess your battery is going out
#12
my stock battery used to die really fast, thing was terrible. i replaced it with an optima yellowtop and no issues since. btw if u go optima dont get em off the internet; way too many people have gotten messed up batteries off Amazon and other sites and some dont accept returns (hazardous material) and you're stuck with it. yeah it'll be a lil more at your local autostore but it'll work...
#13
*******PLEASE HELP**********************************
Help I have a similar problem. Yellow key light on. Cant turn on the accessory. Cant roll up windows (hard key doesn't work). I live in Alaska. 100 MILES FROM THE DEALER.
I've changed the car battery, the primary fob battery, and have tried the back up fob.
My brake lights do work.
I've noticed that the steering wheel lock is not engaging though.
All the while, though, the yellow light stays on while I'm seated in the car with either or both keys.
Yes I've tried to sit key in key boot. without any changes. Not even sure why they put that in the car.
Help I have a similar problem. Yellow key light on. Cant turn on the accessory. Cant roll up windows (hard key doesn't work). I live in Alaska. 100 MILES FROM THE DEALER.
I've changed the car battery, the primary fob battery, and have tried the back up fob.
My brake lights do work.
I've noticed that the steering wheel lock is not engaging though.
All the while, though, the yellow light stays on while I'm seated in the car with either or both keys.
Yes I've tried to sit key in key boot. without any changes. Not even sure why they put that in the car.
#14
Car won't start
I have a 2010 maximum went to crack it and won't crank padel is hard the warning key is on . I took the brake padel sensore off and rain a jumper wire to see if it was bad and it still don't crank ,undone the battery still nothing put emergency brack on and put car n neutral still nothing . Don't know what to do, I'm use to key start not push button can any one help me
#15
*******PLEASE HELP**********************************
Help I have a similar problem. Yellow key light on. Cant turn on the accessory. Cant roll up windows (hard key doesn't work). I live in Alaska. 100 MILES FROM THE DEALER.
I've changed the car battery, the primary fob battery, and have tried the back up fob.
My brake lights do work.
I've noticed that the steering wheel lock is not engaging though.
All the while, though, the yellow light stays on while I'm seated in the car with either or both keys.
Yes I've tried to sit key in key boot. without any changes. Not even sure why they put that in the car.
Help I have a similar problem. Yellow key light on. Cant turn on the accessory. Cant roll up windows (hard key doesn't work). I live in Alaska. 100 MILES FROM THE DEALER.
I've changed the car battery, the primary fob battery, and have tried the back up fob.
My brake lights do work.
I've noticed that the steering wheel lock is not engaging though.
All the while, though, the yellow light stays on while I'm seated in the car with either or both keys.
Yes I've tried to sit key in key boot. without any changes. Not even sure why they put that in the car.
#16
#17
Steering lock malfunctions is the reason I pulled the fuse on that baby a year ago. Cost of repair doesn't enter into the picture as I have insurance, but what I really didn't want is to be disabled somewhere requiring a tow.
#18
Just got a 2014 with the Sport package with under 500 miles so far. Just noticed a squeek coming from the rear but haven't had time to investigate where it's coming from. Figured it was just the Sport suspension or the fact that temperatures have dropped dramatically the last couple of weeks in Chicago...
#19
Does anyone know if the steering lock problem is limited to certain model years or are all 7 gens susceptible?
#20
All 7th generations as well as other Nissan models that use the similar steering wheel lock are susceptible.
However, I think it is 2011s and onwards that had the fuse removed from the factory or the dealer pulled it.
Open the front hood of the car, and look to the driver side area, rear of the battery.
Open the cover to the fuse box, and turn the cover over a description of the fuse locations. Of the four rows of fuses, I think it's the one closest to the front of the car, passenger side. Should be a 10amp one if you have it, or none if it's already pulled.
However, I think it is 2011s and onwards that had the fuse removed from the factory or the dealer pulled it.
Open the front hood of the car, and look to the driver side area, rear of the battery.
Open the cover to the fuse box, and turn the cover over a description of the fuse locations. Of the four rows of fuses, I think it's the one closest to the front of the car, passenger side. Should be a 10amp one if you have it, or none if it's already pulled.
#21
All 7th generations as well as other Nissan models that use the similar steering wheel lock are susceptible.
However, I think it is 2011s and onwards that had the fuse removed from the factory or the dealer pulled it.
Open the front hood of the car, and look to the driver side area, rear of the battery.
Open the cover to the fuse box, and turn the cover over a description of the fuse locations. Of the four rows of fuses, I think it's the one closest to the front of the car, passenger side. Should be a 10amp one if you have it, or none if it's already pulled.
However, I think it is 2011s and onwards that had the fuse removed from the factory or the dealer pulled it.
Open the front hood of the car, and look to the driver side area, rear of the battery.
Open the cover to the fuse box, and turn the cover over a description of the fuse locations. Of the four rows of fuses, I think it's the one closest to the front of the car, passenger side. Should be a 10amp one if you have it, or none if it's already pulled.
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