So im in the process of building together my car and im buying piece by piece and the first thing to go....is the battery!!!!!

Yes we have a very week battery and last night I played 5 songs with the car off and only the ACC on and I had to pull the jump box out.

So I am looking for a battery to replace the stock one that Nissan seems to have gotten from China.

Recommendations?

I was comparing the OPTIMA RETOP and YELLOWTOP but open to opinions and other options.

I will have a pretty big sound system later this year and Im predicting super cold winters so I dont mind spending more money on a battery now for added piece of mind.

 

I would go with a red top for up front for the Cold Cranking. But since you're talking a sound system, then I'd run an additional battery in the rear for your system. I recommend kinetics for that.

 

Check out Consumer Reports for their car battery ratings. If you are not a subscribing member try the library

 

2nd battery you say? farad capacitors wouldn't work then?

 

I've always been a fan of die hard platinum batteries from sears. Awesome warranty.

 

I don't like capacitors. You can use them but it doesn't "run" your system. You can run a second battery and isolate it from the battery under the hood and don't have to worry about ur system killing the starting battery. Plus it will ask as a capacitor as well. Dual purpose.

 

I got a yellowtop that's running my whole car including system - ever since I replaced that terrible OEM battery I've never had a problem since. Unless you're going crazy with your system you don't need a 2nd battery or cap - I'm running an Alpine M500 digital amp with Alpine 1242D 12" sub and it's way more bass than I'd ever need at 75% power and never dims anything at all

 

Haha true that. Since we are running just one amp i think the factory electrical system does great. I still have the factory battery too. But he said 'pretty big sound system' so i made my recommendation. Haha

 

I completely missed the part about the big system. Yeah grab a second battery and mount it nicely in the trunk then. Optima's have a bunch of aftermarket battery tray options, I got a random one off eBay that turned out to be VERY well made I just needed to paint it black and mount it.

 

2 12 inch alpine type Xs are in the works and Alpnie type r for highs and mids.

2 amps for sure if i can find the right amp for the type Xs.

 

PDX F4 or F6 for highs and PDX M12 for lows. DO IT! Both stackable and the technology in those amps are the same as the ones in the JL's. Will never cut out, only tune back the power if it over heats until it cools down then will crank the power back up.

I love my M12, a little overkill for my W3 JL's but until I switch to a JL amp, it will have to do. haha especially when it was FREEEEEE! Sorry i'm gloating a bit

 

SO you think the pdx m12 will be enough for the type x?

 

I think it will suffice, I don't trust the 1000w RMS rating, but if you really want to push some what's you'll need to run 2 M12's. Which to get back on topic, will def need to add another battery to run that.

 

I think there has been a lot of study (especially in the RV world) of how to connect batteries in parallel, and basically you just connect them in parallel. They will not discharge just because of the parallel connection. You don't need any diode or relay isolation. A google search should bring up the appropriate studies especially in boats and RV's which typically have multiple batterys.

 

Yes you would still wire it parallel but with the isolator on the battery in the, you don't have to worry about it draining your starting battery.....that's why I recommend it. Most RV's have battery isolators to make sure you're not stranded because you killed your starting battery. $50 piece can save you alot of headache.

 

I was an RV technician for about 5 years. I can tell you that adding a second battery parallel isn't difficult for the wiring at least, and using an isolator (or separator) is a piece o' cake. They're pretty simple pieces, and all they do is open the circuit between the batteries when the starting battery voltage drops below a certain number (can't remember exactly, but 11.8v is sticking in my mind--been too many years lol). Up till that point though the two batteries are functioning together as one bigger battery.

Couple other tips though: make sure both of the batteries are the same age/style/brand. Otherwise they won't charge evenly. Also, I'm not very familiar with the output of our alternators, but maybe we should get someone to verify that it can charge two batteries at once without issues.

 

I highly recommend Sears Die Hard Platinum if you want the best. Better warranty and reviews than the red/yellow tops:

- Yellowtop: 3 year replacement (corrected)

- Sears Die Hard Platinum: 4-year FREE Replacement + 100 Month Pro-Rated Limited Warranty (~8 years)

 

Yellowtop is 3 year

 

oops. your right .. 3 years for optima yellow.