I'm thinking about doing this on my own this summer. There's just a drain plug and pouring through the charge port right?

 

very easy, just drain from underneath and fill up top through the dipstick hole

 

Yes

 

Thanks

 

When checking the fluid level after the drain/refill -

Are you supposed to "lock" the dipstick in place first, and THEN pull it out for the fluid level check? Or is the dipstick not supposed to be locked prior to the fluid level check?

Seems like locking it vs not locking it could produce a fairly sizable variance on the fluid level reading.

 

insert it with the tab facing backwards so it can go all the way in.

 

Ah, thanks, I somehow missed that in the first post.

Now, the 'second notch from the bottom' wording, there are only two notches anyway. So to be totally clear the correct level indicator should be the top notch (handle side) - correct?

 

I wanted to bump this up, since I am needing to do this and had a few questions. From reading the write-up and other posts I have seen, it does not seem that many people replace the drain plug o-ring, but the FSM mentions replacing it. Is this o-ring similar to the copper crush washer for the engine oil drain plug, if so it would probably be a good idea to replace IMO. Does anyone know the part number for the o-ring and the drain plug torque specs?

Also, I'm at 37K miles, should I go ahead and replace the CVT filter? I find it funny that the FSM doesn't mention changing it.

 

I have a 2014 Maxima and I just performed a CVT drain and refill.

The large drain plug has a built in rubber gasket. I think adding a crush washer might do more harm than good.

 

Thanks for the info. I haven't attempted to touch the drain yet, so I didn't know that there was a rubber gasket. I would assume that if it's a rubber gasket, it should be reusable. Did you change the gasket?

 

I used a poor choice of words. It is not really a gasket. It is a rubber O-ring like you read in your research. Regardless, it appeared to be in good shape, so I just reused it.

 

Im at 50k on my 13. Im looking into having my cvt serviced again. I just called the oil stop to ask how much it will cost. They explained they don't change the filter, so I have the original filter. They serviced my cvt at 29,600 miles. Thats ****ed up! they never told me they didn't change my filter. I hope I haven't done any damage.

Im trying to buy the fluid and filter from the dealer and do it myself but they want me to have them look at the car, they say there are 2 different cvt variations that take different levels of fluid…

The dealer told me they gave me $100 rewards credits back when they ****ed up my car, now that I'm talking to the dealer I told them to use those rewards and they say I have $0 balance, Ive never used it but luckily found an old email that says i have $135 in rewards for service.

 

Can you help me find a write up on how to change the filter? Im only finding drain and fill. tia

 

I have a 2013 Maxima 80K miles, history of the CVT fluid is unknown. Currently CVT is working fine. I am struggling on the question on drain and fill the CVT fluid or not to drain and fill the CVT starting now and every 30k miles onward?

Called the local Nissan dealers the first person said do not replace CVT fluid in its entirety, most that I should do is drain and fill. Second person that have over twenty years of experience recommend not to touch the CVT until issue develop. The mixture of old and new CVT fluid also may mess up the CVT. Your thought?

 

you are 20,000 over what the manual states to do, Not bad I would do it but going forward do it every 60 like the book states.

 

That's true IMO about it might ruin it. I have 170K and scared to mess with it too.... I read recently some dudes CVT just died with 80k, when asked how he drove the car he said he babied it. We won't know for sure if that's true though. When I got my car the dude that sold it to me said don't touch it when I asked him should I change it. He didn't give me a reason though but I can guess why lol

 

I drained and filled my 2013 Maxima at 81K with 4.25 Quarts Genuine Nissan OEM NS-2 Transmission (CVT) fluid. The original CVT fluid that drain out was darker than expected, wish me luck.

 

Thank you all for the input and comments on this process. I have a 2010 with 91K on it which I bought used in 2015 when it had 47K. I do my own service and have changed the oil regularly with Mobil 1 full synthetic and Mobil 1 extended life filters. I asked about the CVT changed at the dealership and was floored by the cost. This change process seems relatively straight forward so I am going to purchase 5 qts of OEM CVT fluid from the dealership and follow the drain and refill tips in this thread. I figure I will do this again in a year instead of doing the flush and refill to avoid any issues with sediment moving around with a flush. I wasn't aware of any transmission filter that required replacing but saw a couple of mentions in this thread. Can anyone give me some additional clarity on this please?

 

The filter is external to the CVT case. It sits towards the front of the car, bolted to the transmission on the drivers side. If you google image search "Nissan CVT Filter" the first few pictures show it pretty well. It looks like a silver metal pot with two hoses coming out of the top at 90 degrees. Remove the three bolts attaching it to the block, loosen the hose clamps and put the new one in. I have removed the wheel and part of the fender liner both times I have done it. I don't know if that is necessary. Nissan part # 31726-1XE0A

 

Thanks for the response wildcat08! I will check this info out.

 

Wildcat08 is spot on with the information about the CVT fluid filter. The filter unit only costs about $13 list price at the dealer and bolts on and off easily once you remove the driver's side front tire and one part of the splash guard. I don't know why the manuals don't talk more about replacing this filter. If it were not for this board I would not have known about it but it would sure seem like a good idea to go ahead and replace it at the same time as the drain and fill. I did today and it was a very easy job nothing you need to pay a dealer to do.

 

Hey guys, I got my 6 quarts in yesterday and went to tackle the job when I had a hard time getting the bolt/plug off. I used a 10mm hex but it seemed like it didnt want to fit in all the way, plus it was pretty corroded around the seal and I've ended up stripping the bolt.

Can anybody get me a part number to a new one? I've googled and am coming up short or I dont know what I'm looking for

Much appreciated

 

How are you? I can try to help you with that. I work from a nissan dealership. We have our own website for the parts department and we have special deals and coupons. Give us a look and if you can't find what you are looking for, give us a call or reply on here.
https://www.beelineparts.com/
or call
844-851-3918

 

Good afternoon,If you are still looking for that part we have that on our site. If you need anything else, let me know!
https://www.beelineparts.com/oem-par...ter-317261xe0a

Jake McDaniel – eCommerce Business Development

eComm Direct: (844) 851-3918

 

Found a similar guide on nissanclub and was wondering how important it is to drain additional fluid from the inlet port for an extra 6 quarts.

Also, is there a need to replace the cvt fluid filter?

 

Need some help...

I had mentioned a few months ago that I stripped the drainage bolt when I was doing this. I had no way of extracting the bolt so I took it the garage down the road and had them do it. Atleast I hope that's what they did and not drill it out. They also rotated my tires, and welded a small hole that was in my muffler. Anyways, ever since they did the replacement i'm getting this metal on metal grinding noise in 2-3rd gear, usually starts at around 20mph and ends at 40mph. It does it every time and it sounds horrific. I have found out that driving the car in "manual" mode and shifting the gears myself, there is NO noise. I got 3 leftover quarts of tranny fluid, should i try doing another fluid replacement and see if that maybe knocks some dirt or i dont know what else, idk what i'm talking about.

Anybody have an idea what it could be and what I should do?
Thanks!

 

I plan on doing this soon. How did you guys dispose of the old fluid?

 

I take the used oil to a recycling center.

 

If the garage put in the correct fluid and you know for sure that the noise is coming from the CVT then there is nothing else you can do yourself except to take it to the dealership and have the noise diagnosed.

 

That's what I'll do then. Thanks

 

Recently purchased 2012 with 112k.
Did the cvt fluid change out. Bucket said I drained out 4 quarts but had to fill 5 quarts to get to middle of the zone on the stick.
I used Nissan NS2 but who out there has used Valvoline Cvt fluid? Price difference kinda big. No whine now (there was a very light one). Was contemplating doing another drain n fill in next 20k or so. Hoping to find cheaper alternative fluid.
Any experience shared greatly appreciated.
Thanks for your time/read.

 

Just finished up my 2nd drain and fill using OEM fluid and OEM filter both times. We are about to hit the 90K mile mark on the car. It's a 2012 and has been pretty easy to work on. I would recommend to everyone doing this job, go ahead and change the trans filter every time you do the drain and fill. It cost less than a a quart of fluid and only takes a few more minutes to do this. We hope to get another 4 or 5 years out of the car.

 

Hi guys,
Anyone please know the Nissan part number of the O-ring for the CVT drain plug?
Thanks

 

My 2014 SV has 77,000 miles on it now. It was a Nissan 'Certified Pre-Owned' that I bought with about 60K on it. Dealer SAID they'd "performed all necessary services, inspections, and fluid changes" before I'd bought it. Regardless, I left nothing to chance and went ahead and changed the oil today as prescribed in this excellent thread. The old oil was a reddish brown, didn't smell burned or anything...just definitely not the light green of the new.

One thing I must have missed in all this...and of course the Owner's Manual doesn't mention it...but does one check the fluid with the engine ON or OFF?

 

Thanks OP for the great write-up.
I had the Nissan dealer drained/refilled and changed the external filter (they do not know about the filter, until I pre-ordered it and provided it at my appointment) back in December at 81k miles.
I wanted to do another round of drain/refill again now (unknown fluid history on the car, new to me). My friend mechanic and me did it in his garage this afternoon.
The idiot Nissan tech apparently overfilled the tranny, and broke the locking mechanism of the dip stick (now can be pulled straight without a flat screw driver), and the drain plug was tightened like there will be no tomorrow.
This time today, with no filer involved, we drained a bit more than 5 quarts , put exactly 4 quarts back in, when done, dip stick showed fluid exactly at 2nd notch (hot transmission).
I will re-check fluid level in a day or 2, I might need to add less than a 1/4 of a quart (maybe).
This much supports my theory:
If transmission is at operating temperature (120F-170F), fluid level is optimal before drain and no filter involved, you need 4.3 to 4.5 quarts, and forget about it.

 

My level is right above the second notch and a little bit into the cross hatch area, Not sure if that's optimal or overfilled but never had any issues.

 

That's optimal. My level (from the dealer) was above the hatched area . Huge fail on dealer side.
The only thing good is I got a carfax entry on change transmission fluid and filter.

 

Yeah I've heard that it should stay with in the hatch area but don't want it to be over it. These cars scare me I drive mine 60 miles daily round trip for work and wonder every day if today is the day my CVT is going to give out. I have a 2010 Maxima 118,000 miles on it. Runs excellent but I'm just not at ease with it..lol

 

Did anyone ever answer this?
I used 31526-1XA01 but don't know if that is the "Correct OEM" version.

Lt

 

Yes exactly
"31526-1XA01 - Drain Plug O-Ring (Qty. 1)", used that with my second D/RF for my lawn mower
And exactly as you stated somewhere, after filter change fluid remains clean like it came from the bottle.
Thanks Lt.