Steering Wheel Lock Issue - Page 3 - Maxima Forums

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Steering Wheel Lock Issue

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Old 11-20-2014, 07:03 PM
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I believe the 2009 was the only year Nissan extended the warranty to 72 months unlimited miles. I was notified early 2013 and there was a sticker with the letter to apply to the warranty book stating the warranty was extended for this part.
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Old 11-20-2014, 08:13 PM
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So what about the rest of the 7th gen models? Are we effected by this or should we check for this fuse?
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Old 11-20-2014, 09:07 PM
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See Ghozt's post #20.
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Old 11-21-2014, 07:25 AM
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Thanks for the pointer but that doesn't sound real conclusive when read. I will check for the fuse or ask my dealer.
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Old 11-21-2014, 08:44 AM
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update on my Maxima 2010 (bought Sept 2009, so It's a 2009 production)

experienced lock up on Tuesday 11/18/14 at random. Applied the steering wheel trick to get of the lock up. Car started up fine and at the next opportunity I removed the fuse.

hopefully the issue is resolved

thanks
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Old 11-21-2014, 12:02 PM
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Talked to the dealer this morning after explaining what some wrote in this thread about removing the fuse.

The service rep said he talked to his technicians and that they can remove the fuse but they also need to get into the wiring harness to completely disable the steering wheel lock.

~$210
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Old 11-21-2014, 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by SleekMax View Post
Talked to the dealer this morning after explaining what some wrote in this thread about removing the fuse.

The service rep said he talked to his technicians and that they can remove the fuse but they also need to get into the wiring harness to completely disable the steering wheel lock.

~$210
thats bs, they're just trying to make money off you. turn the car on to ACC and pull the fuse yourself and you're done. i pulled mine a long time ago and have been fine.
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Old 11-22-2014, 02:41 AM
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For the hell out of it I checked my car out(2010), first was the date it was built....which was oct 09, which is before the nov 09 date that's been determined to be the effected vehicles, popped my hood, and removed the fuse cover, boom no fuse....so if those dates are correct, someone most likely the dealer has already removed this
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Old 11-23-2014, 06:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Tommy6905 View Post
For the hell out of it I checked my car out(2010), first was the date it was built....which was oct 09, which is before the nov 09 date that's been determined to be the effected vehicles, popped my hood, and removed the fuse cover, boom no fuse....so if those dates are correct, someone most likely the dealer has already removed this
Correct, Nissan's fix in later years was to not even have the circuit powered.
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Old 01-27-2015, 11:00 AM
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Maxima 2011 steering lock

I have Nissan Maxima 2011
i faced the same steering lock problem then i tried the tap solution and it worked, but unfortunately i didn't pull out the fuse
today i faced the same problem again but the tap solution didn't work, does anyone tried it twice?
and any other suggested solution?
Thanks
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Old 04-01-2015, 08:34 AM
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I just experienced this issue on my 09 Max SV with 93K miles and I was pulling my hair out to try to figure out with this issue could be. I mulled over the battery, my key fob batteries, etc. Long story short, I frequent this forum just for tips and good reads and I saw this issue plastered all over here and all over the net. I have to say that you guys are genius' and are heaven sent! My car wouldn't start at all and I definitely couldn't get it into ACC. I followed the tapping instructions by removing the lower panel via a few screws and clips (which was extremely easy, don't be afraid) then I tapped the module with the end of a socket wrench 3 or 4 times and voila, the car not only went into ACC, but it started! Can you see the huge smile on my face? Second, I cut the car off and put it back into ACC then popped the 10A steering lock fuse located in the engine bay. Lastly, I started the car with no issues about 10 times out of pure excitement! This whole ordeal took me 15 minutes if that. You guys are so freaking awesome and I sincerely appreciate the sharing of info to rectify or if at the least, bypass the issue. Saved a lot of money and inconvenience! VICTORY!! PROFIT!!!




PS - My car is fortunately garage parked but all the windows were down because previously, my son was playing with the fob and he must've held the button too long. Nonetheless, I was extremely worried about the tow if it came to that because it's extremely raining from day to day where I live this time of the year.
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Old 04-01-2015, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by dcscorpio76 View Post
I just experienced this issue on my 09 Max SV with 93K miles and I was pulling my hair out to try to figure out with this issue could be. I mulled over the battery, my key fob batteries, etc. Long story short, I frequent this forum just for tips and good reads and I saw this issue plastered all over here and all over the net. I have to say that you guys are genius' and are heaven sent! My car wouldn't start at all and I definitely couldn't get it into ACC. I followed the tapping instructions by removing the lower panel via a few screws and clips (which was extremely easy, don't be afraid) then I tapped the module with the end of a socket wrench 3 or 4 times and voila, the car not only went into ACC, but it started! Can you see the huge smile on my face? Second, I cut the car off and put it back into ACC then popped the 10A steering lock fuse located in the engine bay. Lastly, I started the car with no issues about 10 times out of pure excitement! This whole ordeal took me 15 minutes if that. You guys are so freaking awesome and I sincerely appreciate the sharing of info to rectify or if at the least, bypass the issue. Saved a lot of money and inconvenience! VICTORY!! PROFIT!!!




PS - My car is fortunately garage parked but all the windows were down because previously, my son was playing with the fob and he must've held the button too long. Nonetheless, I was extremely worried about the tow if it came to that because it's extremely raining from day to day where I live this time of the year.
This part has a 72 month unlimited millage extended warranty if you ever want to replace the failed part. Most people here just pulled the fuse prior to failure, me included, but the option for dealer warranty work is still there for the 09 model year.
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Old 04-01-2015, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Richard66 View Post
This part has a 72 month unlimited millage extended warranty if you ever want to replace the failed part. Most people here just pulled the fuse prior to failure, me included, but the option for dealer warranty work is still there for the 09 model year.
That question did pop in my mind about getting the part replaced even after the fuse pull. Has anyone gone along with the repair although the issue appears to be rectified. The dealer wouldn't be able to duplicate the problem so where is the proof that the ESLM would need to be replaced because of failure especially since there is no recall on this issue?
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Old 04-01-2015, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by dcscorpio76 View Post
That question did pop in my mind about getting the part replaced even after the fuse pull. Has anyone gone along with the repair although the issue appears to be rectified. The dealer wouldn't be able to duplicate the problem so where is the proof that the ESLM would need to be replaced because of failure especially since there is no recall on this issue?
Pulling the fuse just bypasses the locking system. Your locking system has already failed and you did the tapping proceedure to temporarily get you going then you pulled the fuse. Wouldn't putting the fuse back in and shutting the car off get you right back to where you were before you did the tap procedure? That would be the duplication of problem.
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Old 04-01-2015, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Richard66 View Post
Pulling the fuse just bypasses the locking system. Your locking system has already failed and you did the tapping proceedure to temporarily get you going then you pulled the fuse. Wouldn't putting the fuse back in and shutting the car off get you right back to where you were before you did the tap procedure? That would be the duplication of problem.


Duh, I guess that would duplicate the issue but I'd rather leave well enough alone. I haven't read yet that anyone has experienced any issues after removing the fuse so I'll leave it alone for now. Thanks friends!
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Old 04-01-2015, 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by dcscorpio76 View Post
Duh, I guess that would duplicate the issue but I'd rather leave well enough alone. I haven't read yet that anyone has experienced any issues after removing the fuse so I'll leave it alone for now. Thanks friends!
I pulled my fuse over a year ago and the only noticeable change, there is a 1-2 second delay now from the time you press the start button to the starting sequence of the engine. Before I pulled the fuse that delay was not there.
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Old 04-02-2015, 04:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Richard66 View Post
I pulled my fuse over a year ago and the only noticeable change, there is a 1-2 second delay now from the time you press the start button to the starting sequence of the engine. Before I pulled the fuse that delay was not there.
@Richard66, that's a good mention. I noticed that instantly after I pulled the fuse although I'm not bothered by it. It is but a split second delay. As a matter of fact, I believe I had to push the button twice the very first time I cranked her up bit since it's just been a second and a half delay. Happy to see we're on the same page...lol
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Old 04-02-2015, 05:20 AM
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This prompted me to check my 2009...sure enough my fuse was still there. I haven't experienced any issues but I figure it's safe to pull the fuse prior to the unit failing.
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Old 04-02-2015, 07:22 AM
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Thanks for the tip - pulled my fuse a week or two ago for safe measure. I didn't notice any delay in starting like the earlier post mentions - it just no longer makes the "unlocking" noise and fires right up.
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Old 04-03-2015, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by LWilspeed View Post
Thanks for the tip - pulled my fuse a week or two ago for safe measure. I didn't notice any delay in starting like the earlier post mentions - it just no longer makes the "unlocking" noise and fires right up.
See, that's the thing, I'm experiencing the delay of 1-2 seconds but it still makes the unlocking noise before it fires up. Are some of us experiencing the opposite of others? I mean, it all works but I'm just curious as to who gets the delay and who doesn't?
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Old 04-03-2015, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by ThinBlue82 View Post
This prompted me to check my 2009...sure enough my fuse was still there. I haven't experienced any issues but I figure it's safe to pull the fuse prior to the unit failing.
I think it's definitely a good idea to pull the fuse prior to any issues. The reason I recommend is because you don't want to get stranded anywhere and require a tow. Second, I've read that the tapping method on the ESLM worked for some but not for others and you would have to be in a position with a few tools to remove the lower panel to expose the module. You might as well save yourself all the trouble and learn the lesson from others that suffered the fail. My Maxima logged 93000K before I experienced the issue while some experienced it much earlier so the bottom line is it appears to be inevitable. Good luck!
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Old 04-07-2015, 03:34 AM
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I recently bought a 2012 SV premium with 24,XXX miles. We immediately experienced this problem. Once I found the info on this site, I checked for the fuse and it is not in the fuse block. I dropped it off at the dealer yesterday, and they are taking care of it. Frustrating...such a beautiful car! I hope it gets solved!
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Old 04-07-2015, 07:01 AM
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Interesting. I wonder how the steering wheel lock can even operate without the fuse in place. This is certainly new information. Anyway keep us posted on what the dealership found and what the fix was.
Thanks
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Old 04-08-2015, 09:37 AM
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Started a thread about an odd noise in my steering column when starting the maxima and while driving. Got a little nervous because the noise was happening while driving. Just got word from the dealer that it was the steering lock motor going bad. Here is a link to the thread. In it there is a discription of the noises I heard when starting the car and while driving, as well as a video of the noise. If anyone experiences this type of noise get to the dealer asap or pull the fuse if you don't have a warranty.

https://maxima.org/forums/7th-genera...lp-please.html
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Old 04-08-2015, 01:08 PM
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Well, they tested the battery and determined that was the problem. They replaced the battery for free. I am still a little leary, but it has been reported, and under warranty. I did notice, however, that I could always start the car with a jump, so maybe that was the problem. I am a little sad, though. Now that it is fixed, I had to give it back to the wife
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Old 05-21-2015, 01:10 PM
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dcscorpio76 : I've been trying to pay attention to the starting. And on occasion I do experience a delay in the start....a longer delay then typical. Probably 2-3 seconds (which seems like an eternity when I'm trying to start the car )
It does not hesitate/start slow when I walk up, jump in, fire up. It does hesitate a long time if I shut the car off and sit in it for a bit and then tried to start it.
Like maybe after an initial "wake up" by the car when my key gets close it goes back to sleep? Not sure. But it definitely seems like the only time I experience hesitation with the start is when the key has been in the car for a bit.
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Old 05-21-2015, 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by jet50213 View Post
I recently bought a 2012 SV premium with 24,XXX miles. We immediately experienced this problem. Once I found the info on this site, I checked for the fuse and it is not in the fuse block. I dropped it off at the dealer yesterday, and they are taking care of it. Frustrating...such a beautiful car! I hope it gets solved!
It only gets better...A 2010 w/36,800 and the one original (obviously) and one Interstate Megatron battery replaced and now the Alternator needing replacement...or did it have something to do with the other batteries going under? Oh and just had BOTH (year long+) non-functioning left side door lock actuators replaced as well. $$$$ I'm retired and beat my well maintained car by driving 7k a year.
Oh wait the CVT valvebody replaced at around 17K if I remember that mileage correctly
Still like it but won't buy-it again.
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Old 02-22-2016, 09:56 AM
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Completely forgot about this issue, but after a long day, I went out to my car pushed the start button and nothing, pulled the bottom dash panel off couple hits with a mallet and it started right up, got it home and was able to pull the fuse, I checked to make sure I could turn the wheel, and it turns when the car is off
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Old 02-24-2016, 03:58 PM
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Just checked the fuse box on my 2013 SV and sure enough the fuse is pulled. I am betting that it was pulled at the factory.
This really irritates me as obviously Nissan had known about the issue long before my 2013 was manufactured and choose to take the easy way out and not fix the issue, and leave me without a locking steering column.
This is my 5th Nissan badged product. I owned a 1990 240sx from new that I had for 19 years and only had to replace the brakes and fuel pump other then regular maintenance. I had a 1996 300 zx turbo from new that I owned for 10 years and only required regular maintenance, and a 2001 maxima for 5 years that only required regular maintenance. All these vehicles were manufactured in Japan.
My 2006 Maxima required a new long block engine, a manual transmission and the catalytic converters under warranty, and continually had front suspension and brake issues. As much as I loved the car, it was a huge disappointment.
I love my 2013, but it is issues like the locking steering column that drives me crazy, and then I begin to worry about other issues creeping up (i.e. bearing noise in engine).
I also wonder if the manufacturing country of origin plays a part. The 2006 and 2013 Maxima's were built in the USA.
I personally think Nissan needs to step up its game.
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Old 02-25-2016, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by 240tomax View Post
Just checked the fuse box on my 2013 SV and sure enough the fuse is pulled. I am betting that it was pulled at the factory.
This really irritates me as obviously Nissan had known about the issue long before my 2013 was manufactured and choose to take the easy way out and not fix the issue, and leave me without a locking steering column.
This is my 5th Nissan badged product. I owned a 1990 240sx from new that I had for 19 years and only had to replace the brakes and fuel pump other then regular maintenance. I had a 1996 300 zx turbo from new that I owned for 10 years and only required regular maintenance, and a 2001 maxima for 5 years that only required regular maintenance. All these vehicles were manufactured in Japan.
My 2006 Maxima required a new long block engine, a manual transmission and the catalytic converters under warranty, and continually had front suspension and brake issues. As much as I loved the car, it was a huge disappointment.
I love my 2013, but it is issues like the locking steering column that drives me crazy, and then I begin to worry about other issues creeping up (i.e. bearing noise in engine).
I also wonder if the manufacturing country of origin plays a part. The 2006 and 2013 Maxima's were built in the USA.
I personally think Nissan needs to step up its game.
Your 2013 does not have a steering wheel lock, it was taken off the Nissans either midway through 2010 or 2011, I have no clue about Infiniti but Infiniti issued a recall for my 09 FX and replaced all the steering wheels motors. I'm really not a fan of Nissan anymore, the cars are great but they have a cheapness about them that irritates me, my 09 Maxima has a weird issue, the steering wheel has a hard to replicate vibration, with only 55k it's just annoying.
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Old 02-25-2016, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by STARR View Post
Your 2013 does not have a steering wheel lock, it was taken off the Nissans either midway through 2010 or 2011, I have no clue about Infiniti but Infiniti issued a recall for my 09 FX and replaced all the steering wheels motors. I'm really not a fan of Nissan anymore, the cars are great but they have a cheapness about them that irritates me, my 09 Maxima has a weird issue, the steering wheel has a hard to replicate vibration, with only 55k it's just annoying.
I also own an 09 maxima but just heard about this problem. Almost 52k miles haven't ran into the problem itself yet but decided to pull the 10a fuse just to be safe. The thing is The steering lock, AFTER removing the fuse, I can still hear it operating and the wheel itself still locks and then unlocks after starting the engine. Give me some insight please
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Old 02-25-2016, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by What.the.filter View Post
I also own an 09 maxima but just heard about this problem. Almost 52k miles haven't ran into the problem itself yet but decided to pull the 10a fuse just to be safe. The thing is The steering lock, AFTER removing the fuse, I can still hear it operating and the wheel itself still locks and then unlocks after starting the engine. Give me some insight please
Are you sure you pulled the correct fuse? The locking mechanism will not work without the fuse in place.
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Old 02-25-2016, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Richard66 View Post
Are you sure you pulled the correct fuse? The locking mechanism will not work without the fuse in place.
99.9% sure I pulled the right fuse. Fuse box in the engine bay. Fuse 10a above the a/c fuse, start the car so the locking mech unlocks then pull the 10a fuse. Turn off car to see if it worked. Car still locks steering wheel, still makes winding noise when hitting start button twice but not starting engine. Wheel only unlocks when engine is started.

Last edited by What.the.filter; 02-25-2016 at 12:03 PM.
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Old 02-26-2016, 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by What.the.filter View Post
I also own an 09 maxima but just heard about this problem. Almost 52k miles haven't ran into the problem itself yet but decided to pull the 10a fuse just to be safe. The thing is The steering lock, AFTER removing the fuse, I can still hear it operating and the wheel itself still locks and then unlocks after starting the engine. Give me some insight please
1st thing put the fuse back in, start the car, then shut it off, then start the car with the engine running, pull the fuse, now shut the car off and start it back up, you should hear nothing, and be able to turn the wheel.
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Old 11-06-2016, 04:15 PM
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So my 2010 maxima sv with 100000 kms woildnt start.tried all the tapping and unplugging .i took the lock off broke it open.inside the box i took out all the gears and ther is 2 little buttons that need to be pushed down.i used tie wrap and elastic band.lol can you imagine.what a stupid setup! Its 800 for the part.i wish i would have know about the fuse being pulled before it broke.oh well that the truck if your stuck and nothing else will work.im calling bbb tommorow and nissan canada.
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Old 01-30-2017, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by What.the.filter View Post
99.9% sure I pulled the right fuse. Fuse box in the engine bay. Fuse 10a above the a/c fuse, start the car so the locking mech unlocks then pull the 10a fuse. Turn off car to see if it worked. Car still locks steering wheel, still makes winding noise when hitting start button twice but not starting engine. Wheel only unlocks when engine is started.
I'm having the same issue as well. I have a 2009 maxima. I was having the steering lock issue two week ago so I pulled the fuse. I no longer hear the steering lock engage or disengage. However, yesterday I tried starting my car and it wouldn't start. It showed all the same symptoms of the steering lock failing. However, after hitting the push button start about 3-4 times it started back up again. The strange thing is I am 99.9% sure the steering lock is disabled, I do not hear it engage or disengage. However, I am seeing the red key in the middle of the car icon, in the middle of the dashboard, above the little rectangular box. Also, I cannot move the wheels when the car is off. Did the steering lock mechanism just re-engage it self, even with the fuse removed?

This was how I removed the fuse.
1) Turned the car on.
2) Popped the hood, removed fuse box cover next to battery.
3) Removed the 4th fuse from the bottom, on the left. It was the 10A fuse called Steering Lock.
4) Put fuse box cover back, close lid.
5) Turned car off, and on to make sure everything worked.

Last edited by MCKang25; 01-30-2017 at 11:03 AM.
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Old 01-30-2017, 10:14 PM
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Change the battery in your key fob and report back with any changes.
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Old 03-11-2017, 05:42 AM
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I just had the Steering Lock (D8700-JF00D) replaced back on 2/15/2017. Then a recall comes out. I'm going to try to get a refund.

Here is where I found out.

https://www.nissanusa.com/recalls-vin/#/#/Home
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Old 03-11-2017, 07:29 AM
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You will e getting a notification in the mail from Nissan about this recall and if you paid to have repairs out of warranty they tell you how to go about getting a refund. I got my letter a couple of days ago.
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Old 03-19-2017, 10:09 PM
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not detected key warning sign

hi,

i disconnected it as many of you mentioned

and the car started .

now i have two issues,

1- the amber color key warning sign is alwayes on!
2- the electric windows glass not autumatically going up with one press as it was .

any ideas how to sove these?
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