Independent Fogs
Independent Fogs
I've tried searching the forum for this but no results. I'm trying to have my fogs turn on whenever I want them instead of them only working when my headlights are on.
I'm running H11 fogs and was wondering what I would need to splice in order to get this result?
I'm running H11 fogs and was wondering what I would need to splice in order to get this result?
Some users here have reported that the wiring is long enough, and since both the headlights and foglights use the H11 bulb, then swapping them will be just fine.
EDIT: If you headlights are a HID system, then it uses a D2S bulb, and thus the connectors will be different. DO NOT attempt splice wires and jerry-rigging it together.
The down side is that your foglights must be on for your headlights to work.
I get the feeling that the answer you are looking for is not this solution.
Whenever I get a chance, I will get a picture of my current setup and how I did mine.
As it stands, I used a fuse-tap and tapped into another circuit to power a relay. That relay would then allow current from the main plug that goes to the IPDM flow into the the wiring that goes to the fogs. Everything is protected by a fuse, even the relay wire.
Last edited by Akiyukio; Aug 29, 2013 at 06:45 AM.
What that user means is that if you have halogen lights for your headlights and foglights, then you could just swap the connections so that your headlights now go to your foglights and your fog lights go to your headlights.
Some users here have reported that the wiring is long enough, and since both the headlights and foglights use the H11 bulb, then swapping them will be just fine.
EDIT: If you headlights are a HID system, then it uses a D2S bulb, and thus the connectors will be different. DO NOT attempt splice wires and jerry-rigging it together.
The down side is that your foglights must be on for your headlights to work.
I get the feeling that the answer you are looking for is not this solution.
Whenever I get a chance, I will get a picture of my current setup and how I did mine.
As it stands, I used a fuse-tap and tapped into another circuit to power a relay. That relay would then allow current from the main plug that goes to the IPDM flow into the the wiring that goes to the fogs. Everything is protected by a fuse, even the relay wire.
Some users here have reported that the wiring is long enough, and since both the headlights and foglights use the H11 bulb, then swapping them will be just fine.
EDIT: If you headlights are a HID system, then it uses a D2S bulb, and thus the connectors will be different. DO NOT attempt splice wires and jerry-rigging it together.
The down side is that your foglights must be on for your headlights to work.
I get the feeling that the answer you are looking for is not this solution.
Whenever I get a chance, I will get a picture of my current setup and how I did mine.
As it stands, I used a fuse-tap and tapped into another circuit to power a relay. That relay would then allow current from the main plug that goes to the IPDM flow into the the wiring that goes to the fogs. Everything is protected by a fuse, even the relay wire.
Thanks again Tee00Max and Akiyukio for the explanation.
I guess that could work, just switching the plugs. Reason I wanted "independent fogs" was because I wanted to be able to have my parking lights on while my fogs were on without having the headlights on. Placing the headlights where the fog goes could give me that effect when turning the headlight switch on.
Thanks again Tee00Max and Akiyukio for the explanation.
Thanks again Tee00Max and Akiyukio for the explanation.
To do it the right way you would have to tap into the foglight relay, and provide a steady power source to the relay. This way you can turn your fogs on and off independently. I did this on my old 4th Gen.
Your other option would be to tap into the harness for the front parking lights and run power directly to the foglight harness.
Your other option would be to tap into the harness for the front parking lights and run power directly to the foglight harness.
Here is a link to instructions for the 4th Gen. This might help you do it on a 7th Gen. I think I will check this out this coming weekend and see if I can figure it out.
Basically all you need to do is find the 12V source at the foglight relay, cut it and give it a new 12V source. You could either grab power from the parking lights or from the battery. If you use the battery then the fogs will work completely independent, even with the parking lights off.
http://vqpower.com/v3/content/97-99-fog-light-rewire
Basically all you need to do is find the 12V source at the foglight relay, cut it and give it a new 12V source. You could either grab power from the parking lights or from the battery. If you use the battery then the fogs will work completely independent, even with the parking lights off.
http://vqpower.com/v3/content/97-99-fog-light-rewire
Last edited by araffio; Sep 3, 2013 at 01:12 PM.
Here is a link to instructions for the 4th Gen. This might help you do it on a 7th Gen. I think I will check this out this coming weekend and see if I can figure it out.
Basically all you need to do is find the 12V source at the foglight relay, cut it and give it a new 12V source. You could either grab power from the parking lights or from the battery. If you use the battery then the fogs will work completely independent, even with the parking lights off.
http://vqpower.com/v3/content/97-99-fog-light-rewire
Basically all you need to do is find the 12V source at the foglight relay, cut it and give it a new 12V source. You could either grab power from the parking lights or from the battery. If you use the battery then the fogs will work completely independent, even with the parking lights off.
http://vqpower.com/v3/content/97-99-fog-light-rewire
I just took a look at the fuse/relay box. There is no foglight relay labeled, just a fuse. When I have time I will open up the box to see where the wire to the fog fuse comes from. It has to come from the relay. Should be easy to figure it
I finally got off my lazy bbq, and posted pictures of how I did my setup for independent fogs. (All pictures are linked to larger versions.)
Standard disclaimer: Please be careful when working on your car, I am not responsible for anything you do to your car.
Philosophy: Anything done must be undo-able.
Edits made on Sep 10th, 2013: Added a few notes.
(Fig. 1) This is the overview shot. I tried to keep it clean, but will have to rework it sometime.
(Fig. 2) This is the main power connector going to the IPDM. As you can see, I simply jammed my power wire in there. It's been fine for about 3 ish(?) months now.
EDIT: I recommend stripping about... half an inch to about three-quarters of an inch of wire so that it is properly jammed in there and secured with electrical tape. I heavily do not recommend a tap of any sort. That main power wire is very thick and powers a lot of components. The red wire coming off of it is to a fuse holder with 10amp fuse (I believe the fogs used a 10 amp fuse, so I did the same. Also, my wire handles 10 amps maximum, so everything should be fine). I assume that this red main power wire goes directly to the battery and the 140Amp fuse; thus having two layers of protection is better than having just one. I digress, but if there are any other questions, please post in this thread.
(Fig. 3) Here is my fuse tap. This fuse should be the wiper motor for your windshield wipers. Feel free to choose another fuse that is non-critical for car safety and operation, but remember to ensure your wires are properly fused and protected. This row is powered only when the car is "On", so when I turn off my car, the relay is de-energized as well, and saving me the hassle of a dead battery in the event I forget or are rushing and forget to turn off my fog lights.
As a side note, this fuse tap also powers my DRLs.
EDIT: The fused tapped is the bottom most fuse. See your box cover for details. My fuse tap came from autozone, it was slightly cheaper there in my area. Depending on the fuse tap you get, it may be slightly too long. Just a word of warning though, I got mine jammed in there fine.
(Fig. 4) On the lower right side of the main connector in the center is the headlight/fog-light/turn-signal(?) connector. Each side is separate from the other so my power wire is split in two here to provide power to both sides. I also j.. J... J-JAMMED IT IN. (See here: Link)
EDIT: I also have about half an inch to three-quarters of an inch of insulation stripped off to ensure a good connection.
(Fig. 5) Here is where I placed my switch.
EDIT: Consult your factory service manual on how to remove the lower dash board cover.
This switch is from RadioShack. It is very slightly too big, but works just fine. I will be adding another switch near the top sometime soon for another project.
Just to clarify, here is how it works:
From Wikipedia:
Power from main input (Fig. 2) goes to a fuse, then to pin 87 on the relay.
Pin 87b goes directly to fog-light connector at the IPDM.
From the fuse tap (Fig. 3), this is wired to pin 86 of the relay.
A wire from Pin 85 is snaked around the engine bay to the other side (see here: Link) and then routed to my switch located here next to the Intelligent Key Port (Fig. 5). Some owners may have a switch there, so depending on what model you have, you may have to hunt for a different spot to place the switch.
EDIT: I choose to snake my wire around the engine bay after giving up trying to remove the driver side inner splash guards. It was a giant pain for me for some reason. Also, poking a hole in the main harness grommet was not sitting too well with me, so I snaked around.
Also, the relay sits in a nice little spot under the "arc" of wires going to the IPDM. Of course, everything is wrapped in copious amounts of electrical tape for safety. There are also female blade type quick-connects available at RadioShack to connect to the blades of the relay should you need them.
Standard disclaimer: Please be careful when working on your car, I am not responsible for anything you do to your car.
Philosophy: Anything done must be undo-able.
Edits made on Sep 10th, 2013: Added a few notes.
(Fig. 1) This is the overview shot. I tried to keep it clean, but will have to rework it sometime.
(Fig. 2) This is the main power connector going to the IPDM. As you can see, I simply jammed my power wire in there. It's been fine for about 3 ish(?) months now.EDIT: I recommend stripping about... half an inch to about three-quarters of an inch of wire so that it is properly jammed in there and secured with electrical tape. I heavily do not recommend a tap of any sort. That main power wire is very thick and powers a lot of components. The red wire coming off of it is to a fuse holder with 10amp fuse (I believe the fogs used a 10 amp fuse, so I did the same. Also, my wire handles 10 amps maximum, so everything should be fine). I assume that this red main power wire goes directly to the battery and the 140Amp fuse; thus having two layers of protection is better than having just one. I digress, but if there are any other questions, please post in this thread.
(Fig. 3) Here is my fuse tap. This fuse should be the wiper motor for your windshield wipers. Feel free to choose another fuse that is non-critical for car safety and operation, but remember to ensure your wires are properly fused and protected. This row is powered only when the car is "On", so when I turn off my car, the relay is de-energized as well, and saving me the hassle of a dead battery in the event I forget or are rushing and forget to turn off my fog lights.As a side note, this fuse tap also powers my DRLs.
EDIT: The fused tapped is the bottom most fuse. See your box cover for details. My fuse tap came from autozone, it was slightly cheaper there in my area. Depending on the fuse tap you get, it may be slightly too long. Just a word of warning though, I got mine jammed in there fine.
(Fig. 4) On the lower right side of the main connector in the center is the headlight/fog-light/turn-signal(?) connector. Each side is separate from the other so my power wire is split in two here to provide power to both sides. I also j.. J... J-JAMMED IT IN. (See here: Link)EDIT: I also have about half an inch to three-quarters of an inch of insulation stripped off to ensure a good connection.
(Fig. 5) Here is where I placed my switch.EDIT: Consult your factory service manual on how to remove the lower dash board cover.
This switch is from RadioShack. It is very slightly too big, but works just fine. I will be adding another switch near the top sometime soon for another project.
Just to clarify, here is how it works:
From Wikipedia:
- 85 = relay coil -
- 86 = relay coil +
- 87 = common contact
- 87a = normally closed contact
- 87b = normally open contact
Power from main input (Fig. 2) goes to a fuse, then to pin 87 on the relay.
Pin 87b goes directly to fog-light connector at the IPDM.
From the fuse tap (Fig. 3), this is wired to pin 86 of the relay.
A wire from Pin 85 is snaked around the engine bay to the other side (see here: Link) and then routed to my switch located here next to the Intelligent Key Port (Fig. 5). Some owners may have a switch there, so depending on what model you have, you may have to hunt for a different spot to place the switch.
EDIT: I choose to snake my wire around the engine bay after giving up trying to remove the driver side inner splash guards. It was a giant pain for me for some reason. Also, poking a hole in the main harness grommet was not sitting too well with me, so I snaked around.
Also, the relay sits in a nice little spot under the "arc" of wires going to the IPDM. Of course, everything is wrapped in copious amounts of electrical tape for safety. There are also female blade type quick-connects available at RadioShack to connect to the blades of the relay should you need them.
Last edited by Akiyukio; Sep 10, 2013 at 06:54 AM. Reason: Some edits.
I finally got off my lazy bbq, and posted pictures of how I did my setup for independent fogs. (All pictures are linked to larger versions.)
Standard disclaimer: Please be careful when working on your car, I am not responsible for anything you do to your car.
Philosophy: Anything done must be undo-able.
Edits made on Sep 10th, 2013: Added a few notes.
(Fig. 1) This is the overview shot. I tried to keep it clean, but will have to rework it sometime.
(Fig. 2) This is the main power connector going to the IPDM. As you can see, I simply jammed my power wire in there. It's been fine for about 3 ish(?) months now.
EDIT: I recommend stripping about... half an inch to about three-quarters of an inch of wire so that it is properly jammed in there and secured with electrical tape. I heavily do not recommend a tap of any sort. That main power wire is very thick and powers a lot of components. The red wire coming off of it is to a fuse holder with 10amp fuse (I believe the fogs used a 10 amp fuse, so I did the same. Also, my wire handles 10 amps maximum, so everything should be fine). I assume that this red main power wire goes directly to the battery and the 140Amp fuse; thus having two layers of protection is better than having just one. I digress, but if there are any other questions, please post in this thread.
(Fig. 3) Here is my fuse tap. This fuse should be the wiper motor for your windshield wipers. Feel free to choose another fuse that is non-critical for car safety and operation, but remember to ensure your wires are properly fused and protected. This row is powered only when the car is "On", so when I turn off my car, the relay is de-energized as well, and saving me the hassle of a dead battery in the event I forget or are rushing and forget to turn off my fog lights.
As a side note, this fuse tap also powers my DRLs.
EDIT: The fused tapped is the bottom most fuse. See your box cover for details. My fuse tap came from autozone, it was slightly cheaper there in my area. Depending on the fuse tap you get, it may be slightly too long. Just a word of warning though, I got mine jammed in there fine.
(Fig. 4) On the lower right side of the main connector in the center is the headlight/fog-light/turn-signal(?) connector. Each side is separate from the other so my power wire is split in two here to provide power to both sides. I also j.. J... J-JAMMED IT IN. (See here: Link)
EDIT: I also have about half an inch to three-quarters of an inch of insulation stripped off to ensure a good connection.
(Fig. 5) Here is where I placed my switch.
EDIT: Consult your factory service manual on how to remove the lower dash board cover.
This switch is from RadioShack. It is very slightly too big, but works just fine. I will be adding another switch near the top sometime soon for another project.
Just to clarify, here is how it works:
From Wikipedia:
Power from main input (Fig. 2) goes to a fuse, then to pin 87 on the relay.
Pin 87b goes directly to fog-light connector at the IPDM.
From the fuse tap (Fig. 3), this is wired to pin 86 of the relay.
A wire from Pin 85 is snaked around the engine bay to the other side (see here: Link) and then routed to my switch located here next to the Intelligent Key Port (Fig. 5). Some owners may have a switch there, so depending on what model you have, you may have to hunt for a different spot to place the switch.
EDIT: I choose to snake my wire around the engine bay after giving up trying to remove the driver side inner splash guards. It was a giant pain for me for some reason. Also, poking a hole in the main harness grommet was not sitting too well with me, so I snaked around.
Also, the relay sits in a nice little spot under the "arc" of wires going to the IPDM. Of course, everything is wrapped in copious amounts of electrical tape for safety. There are also female blade type quick-connects available at RadioShack to connect to the blades of the relay should you need them.
Standard disclaimer: Please be careful when working on your car, I am not responsible for anything you do to your car.
Philosophy: Anything done must be undo-able.
Edits made on Sep 10th, 2013: Added a few notes.
(Fig. 1) This is the overview shot. I tried to keep it clean, but will have to rework it sometime.
(Fig. 2) This is the main power connector going to the IPDM. As you can see, I simply jammed my power wire in there. It's been fine for about 3 ish(?) months now.EDIT: I recommend stripping about... half an inch to about three-quarters of an inch of wire so that it is properly jammed in there and secured with electrical tape. I heavily do not recommend a tap of any sort. That main power wire is very thick and powers a lot of components. The red wire coming off of it is to a fuse holder with 10amp fuse (I believe the fogs used a 10 amp fuse, so I did the same. Also, my wire handles 10 amps maximum, so everything should be fine). I assume that this red main power wire goes directly to the battery and the 140Amp fuse; thus having two layers of protection is better than having just one. I digress, but if there are any other questions, please post in this thread.
(Fig. 3) Here is my fuse tap. This fuse should be the wiper motor for your windshield wipers. Feel free to choose another fuse that is non-critical for car safety and operation, but remember to ensure your wires are properly fused and protected. This row is powered only when the car is "On", so when I turn off my car, the relay is de-energized as well, and saving me the hassle of a dead battery in the event I forget or are rushing and forget to turn off my fog lights.As a side note, this fuse tap also powers my DRLs.
EDIT: The fused tapped is the bottom most fuse. See your box cover for details. My fuse tap came from autozone, it was slightly cheaper there in my area. Depending on the fuse tap you get, it may be slightly too long. Just a word of warning though, I got mine jammed in there fine.
(Fig. 4) On the lower right side of the main connector in the center is the headlight/fog-light/turn-signal(?) connector. Each side is separate from the other so my power wire is split in two here to provide power to both sides. I also j.. J... J-JAMMED IT IN. (See here: Link)EDIT: I also have about half an inch to three-quarters of an inch of insulation stripped off to ensure a good connection.
(Fig. 5) Here is where I placed my switch.EDIT: Consult your factory service manual on how to remove the lower dash board cover.
This switch is from RadioShack. It is very slightly too big, but works just fine. I will be adding another switch near the top sometime soon for another project.
Just to clarify, here is how it works:
From Wikipedia:
- 85 = relay coil -
- 86 = relay coil +
- 87 = common contact
- 87a = normally closed contact
- 87b = normally open contact
Power from main input (Fig. 2) goes to a fuse, then to pin 87 on the relay.
Pin 87b goes directly to fog-light connector at the IPDM.
From the fuse tap (Fig. 3), this is wired to pin 86 of the relay.
A wire from Pin 85 is snaked around the engine bay to the other side (see here: Link) and then routed to my switch located here next to the Intelligent Key Port (Fig. 5). Some owners may have a switch there, so depending on what model you have, you may have to hunt for a different spot to place the switch.
EDIT: I choose to snake my wire around the engine bay after giving up trying to remove the driver side inner splash guards. It was a giant pain for me for some reason. Also, poking a hole in the main harness grommet was not sitting too well with me, so I snaked around.
Also, the relay sits in a nice little spot under the "arc" of wires going to the IPDM. Of course, everything is wrapped in copious amounts of electrical tape for safety. There are also female blade type quick-connects available at RadioShack to connect to the blades of the relay should you need them.
I ended up switching my head lights with my fogs so when the low beam switch is turned on the fogs light up then the head lights come on with the fog light switch. I then ran a splitter so when the high beams are turned on, the "fog lights" aka my low beams would not turn off.
Jeez that sounds so easy if you don't have the HID bulbs. I'm horrible with this electronic stuff and I just can't figure out the simple way to get my fogs either attached to the brake lights or just independent. There's so much contradiction on the internet lol.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
trsandrew
7th Generation Maxima (2009-2015)
17
Apr 8, 2016 06:45 PM
trsandrew
Group Deals / Sponsors Forum
2
Oct 25, 2015 02:47 PM
Calabar
4th Generation Classifieds (1995-1999)
3
Oct 5, 2015 09:57 PM



